KMP Stuka-build details
#952
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
ORIGINAL: irocbsa
Time to take out a small diameter Dremel cutoff wheel and deepen the recess for the hinge. The same thing happened with my plane.
Time to take out a small diameter Dremel cutoff wheel and deepen the recess for the hinge. The same thing happened with my plane.
#954
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
ORIGINAL: nefariousrc
Has anybody had any issues with the hinges not going into the wing far enough? I just started putting my winter camo stuka together and most of the hinges on one wing wont go in far enough. I can see that the slot appears to be blocked with something but I'm not sure how to go about clearing it. I've tried poking at it with my hobby knife but it's not budging. It seems as there is a wood piece glued in the way.
Has anybody had any issues with the hinges not going into the wing far enough? I just started putting my winter camo stuka together and most of the hinges on one wing wont go in far enough. I can see that the slot appears to be blocked with something but I'm not sure how to go about clearing it. I've tried poking at it with my hobby knife but it's not budging. It seems as there is a wood piece glued in the way.
Ideas?
#955
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Here you can see the cockpit with Hans and Helmut. Today I finished the spiral on the spinner. Dry weight is 6100g, but I need some other weight in the nose. Tomorrow IĀ“m going to order the accu.
#956
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Now I am waiting for the flying weather, because IĀ“m ready to take-off with my Stuka. Now is the weight 7500g and I have to add 66g in the nose. I am little bit suprised, that I need weight in the nose, because I used heavy engine. IĀ“m going to buy wing cannon set.
#957
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
I have an odd question. How does this model glide? Does it land slowly with power off?
I'm asking because I'm considering making one into a PPS slope soarer...
I'm asking because I'm considering making one into a PPS slope soarer...
#958
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
BUMP to have this question answered:
How does this model glide? Does it land slowly with power off?
I'm asking because I'm considering making one into a PPS slope soarer...
How does this model glide? Does it land slowly with power off?
I'm asking because I'm considering making one into a PPS slope soarer...
#959
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
From my experience, even with my model being a bit on the heavy side at 19lbs, the thing lands almost like a trainer. If you build it light I bet it would make a decent slope soarer.
#960
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Irocbsa, done anything with that trapeze? I just got the leading edge dowels glued in, man that was a pain. I used 1/4" aluminum thick wall tubing. I think the instructions are actually worse than having nothing at some points, heh heh.
#961
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
ORIGINAL: irocbsa
From my experience, even with my model being a bit on the heavy side at 19lbs, the thing lands almost like a trainer. If you build it light I bet it would make a decent slope soarer.
From my experience, even with my model being a bit on the heavy side at 19lbs, the thing lands almost like a trainer. If you build it light I bet it would make a decent slope soarer.
#962
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Haven't been able to get much done lately. Life is just getting in the way. I'm waiting on getting a canopy to replace the one that shattered on a nose over. Hopefully I can get back on it soon. I'll update the thread when I do.
#963
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Update for those planning on installing a PTE 36 on their Stuka...
I have taken the plunge and have mounted the PTE 36 on my Stuka B. I must say it was a bit more work that I thought it would be, but it fits beautifully and is fully enclosed. The engine with stock standoffs is too long to fit under the cowl without some mods- the instructions say there should be 145mm between firewall and thrust washer, but 150mm seemed to be more like it. The PTE is 162mm between firewall and thrust washer. I ended up shortening the standoffs by 12mm, cutting a larger center hole in the firewall for the carb to get air, and had to cut the lower firewall out and glass in a sub-firewall so the muffler would fit behind the engine. After all that, AND adding more wood to the main firewall and glassing, I can move on to the next step. I will post pics soon.
My wing has also been mounted to the fuselage, and I replaced the wooden wing dowels with thick-walled aluminum tubing. To make the dowel hole in the wing and fuse, I made a 1/32 ply pattern with the proper hole spacing, then used it to drill the fuse holes first. I then positioned the wing properly and marked the leading edge from the inside of the fuselage. I then drilled those holes and voila (well, it wasn't THAT easy heh heh). This only works if you cut a hole in the fuse for access behind the firewall... thanks Irocbsa for the hint! It made working on the front end so much easier.
I have taken the plunge and have mounted the PTE 36 on my Stuka B. I must say it was a bit more work that I thought it would be, but it fits beautifully and is fully enclosed. The engine with stock standoffs is too long to fit under the cowl without some mods- the instructions say there should be 145mm between firewall and thrust washer, but 150mm seemed to be more like it. The PTE is 162mm between firewall and thrust washer. I ended up shortening the standoffs by 12mm, cutting a larger center hole in the firewall for the carb to get air, and had to cut the lower firewall out and glass in a sub-firewall so the muffler would fit behind the engine. After all that, AND adding more wood to the main firewall and glassing, I can move on to the next step. I will post pics soon.
My wing has also been mounted to the fuselage, and I replaced the wooden wing dowels with thick-walled aluminum tubing. To make the dowel hole in the wing and fuse, I made a 1/32 ply pattern with the proper hole spacing, then used it to drill the fuse holes first. I then positioned the wing properly and marked the leading edge from the inside of the fuselage. I then drilled those holes and voila (well, it wasn't THAT easy heh heh). This only works if you cut a hole in the fuse for access behind the firewall... thanks Irocbsa for the hint! It made working on the front end so much easier.
#965
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Very nice work. Looks like it comes that way out of the box! I haven't been doing much flying lately. We just got a little English Bulldog puppy at our house and he requires a lot of attention. Hopefully I can get back to flying soon. The weather is really nice here.
#966
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Thanks, irocbsa. I put a fairly substantial layer of glass on the inside of the firewall area, with extra reinforcement around the opening. I can't believe how strong it is now... it's bulletproof! weight isn't bad, either. I now need to get some matching latex paint for the trapeze and other stuff... this will be my first try with latex. Can anyone tell me if I should get gloss, satin, or flat? Still doing reading on this subject, but haven't ran across this aspect yet.
One thing is for sure, I CAN'T wait to have a warbird without retracts!!! Retracts are awesome, but man what a pain to my head and my wallet! Just think, no battery/air worries, no malfunctioning... I am super stoked. I just might get the Val next, although the new liveries for the P-51 look good, too. I was wearing a Gunfighter scheme on my P-51 long before they were really "in style" as of late with manufacturers.
One thing is for sure, I CAN'T wait to have a warbird without retracts!!! Retracts are awesome, but man what a pain to my head and my wallet! Just think, no battery/air worries, no malfunctioning... I am super stoked. I just might get the Val next, although the new liveries for the P-51 look good, too. I was wearing a Gunfighter scheme on my P-51 long before they were really "in style" as of late with manufacturers.
#967
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
I think that the Home Depot and Lowe's will only give you sample jars in a flat finish. You would have to buy a quart to get another sheen. I have exclusively used flats and then fuel proofed with LustreKote.
#969
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RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Yeah, it is, but the LustreKote really gives it that extra bit of fuel proofing and a more scratch resistant finish. I've found that the latex really peels off easily if it's painted over the factory paint.
#970
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
ORIGINAL: Prekin
Now I am waiting for the flying weather, because IĀ“m ready to take-off with my Stuka. Now is the weight 7500g and I have to add 66g in the nose. I am little bit suprised, that I need weight in the nose, because I used heavy engine. IĀ“m going to buy wing cannon set.
Now I am waiting for the flying weather, because IĀ“m ready to take-off with my Stuka. Now is the weight 7500g and I have to add 66g in the nose. I am little bit suprised, that I need weight in the nose, because I used heavy engine. IĀ“m going to buy wing cannon set.
I've also the idea to paint the spinner. Yours is very nice. But to ingnite the engine i will use the starter so i fear to remove the paint with it.
Yesterday i have made some works to my plane and it's almost done.
I've joined the main wing with the fuselage with two pieces of carbon tube, installed the hinges for ailerons, flaps and elevator, and the single bolt retainer for the DLE30.
#971
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
ORIGINAL: Prekin
Now I am waiting for the flying weather, because IĀ“m ready to take-off with my Stuka. Now is the weight 7500g and I have to add 66g in the nose. I am little bit suprised, that I need weight in the nose, because I used heavy engine. IĀ“m going to buy wing cannon set.
Now I am waiting for the flying weather, because IĀ“m ready to take-off with my Stuka. Now is the weight 7500g and I have to add 66g in the nose. I am little bit suprised, that I need weight in the nose, because I used heavy engine. IĀ“m going to buy wing cannon set.
I'm using a DLE30 motor, 2 x 2000 2s life pack (one for servo and one for ignition), 8 hitec digital HV servos, powerbox kill switch, 3.75 Alu 3 blade spinner, 3 blade propeller and a lot of glue!!!
#972
RE: KMP Stuka-build details
Hi maneba, I didnĀ“t hear about you for long time. My CG is 120mm from leading edge, but someone recomend 125mm, I think that is not very big difference. And I still flying without boots but I want to add to my Stuka, but I have hadnĀ“t time yet. I am very bussy because the final exams at the university, so I also havenĀ“t much time for the flying. The next step will the 3-blade prop.
If you would use the starter I think that you will remove the paint from the spinner. From my experience I donĀ“t need the starter for the starting DLE 30, IĀ“ve hadnĀ“t any problem with it yet.
I see that you did a lot of work on your Stuka. You can make the maiden flight.
If you would use the starter I think that you will remove the paint from the spinner. From my experience I donĀ“t need the starter for the starting DLE 30, IĀ“ve hadnĀ“t any problem with it yet.
I see that you did a lot of work on your Stuka. You can make the maiden flight.