The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
10-29-2012, 09:05 PM
#876
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
Yeah Jang from URC is great ton of good info. Anybody going to be/being hit by sandy currently?
the lug
Yeah Jang from URC is great ton of good info. Anybody going to be/being hit by sandy currently?
the lug
10-30-2012, 04:35 AM
#877
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Let's see. I know Lunchboxer, DarkFire, and Cumminspower are getting hit with it. looks like it's swinging my way. Might get cumquat soon. By the way lug, have you ever driven a Savage Flux XS? (Or anybody out there) I was looking at getting one, but never acually had a 4wd vehicle let alone a truck. If so, would you recommend one?
Let's see. I know Lunchboxer, DarkFire, and Cumminspower are getting hit with it. looks like it's swinging my way. Might get cumquat soon. By the way lug, have you ever driven a Savage Flux XS? (Or anybody out there) I was looking at getting one, but never acually had a 4wd vehicle let alone a truck. If so, would you recommend one?
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
Yeah Jang from URC is great ton of good info. Anybody going to be/being hit by sandy currently?
the lug
Yeah Jang from URC is great ton of good info. Anybody going to be/being hit by sandy currently?
the lug
never driven the xs but i want one. 4wd is a blast, far more capable on rough stuff than 2wd. cummins has one. what ever you do dont run 3s in it, the stock esc cant handle it. if i could find it for about $180-200, i'd be all over the kit.
10-30-2012, 10:27 AM
#878
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Well...The kit is at $229.99 right now. I was thinking about getting one.
ORIGINAL: cumquat
had a couple cracks of thunder yesterday and it's currently raining a little.
never driven the xs but i want one. 4wd is a blast, far more capable on rough stuff than 2wd. cummins has one. what ever you do dont run 3s in it, the stock esc cant handle it. if i could find it for about $180-200, i'd be all over the kit.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Let's see. I know Lunchboxer, DarkFire, and Cumminspower are getting hit with it. looks like it's swinging my way. Might get cumquat soon. By the way lug, have you ever driven a Savage Flux XS? (Or anybody out there) I was looking at getting one, but never acually had a 4wd vehicle let alone a truck. If so, would you recommend one?
Let's see. I know Lunchboxer, DarkFire, and Cumminspower are getting hit with it. looks like it's swinging my way. Might get cumquat soon. By the way lug, have you ever driven a Savage Flux XS? (Or anybody out there) I was looking at getting one, but never acually had a 4wd vehicle let alone a truck. If so, would you recommend one?
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
Yeah Jang from URC is great ton of good info. Anybody going to be/being hit by sandy currently?
the lug
Yeah Jang from URC is great ton of good info. Anybody going to be/being hit by sandy currently?
the lug
never driven the xs but i want one. 4wd is a blast, far more capable on rough stuff than 2wd. cummins has one. what ever you do dont run 3s in it, the stock esc cant handle it. if i could find it for about $180-200, i'd be all over the kit.
10-30-2012, 11:17 AM
#879
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
that $30 makes it not worth it (to me) as you'll be looking at more than $330 with the BL system when the rtr is $310.
10-31-2012, 06:03 PM
#880
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey Rob,
Do you find that your wheels fit a bit looser when you use tthe music wire instead of the spring pins? I was checking my evader our the other day after running ans I noticed my rear wheels were a bit loose. So I tightened them downand they started to bind.
My wheelscould be getting a littleclapped out though.
I've got the AL hub carriers. They are strong, but there is a little too much slop where the bearing fit for my liking. So much infact,Ihad to wrap my bearingsin thin tape. I went back to the magnaflex carriers with screw through studs.
I've got the Hobbywing 60A ESC with a TACON 32KV motor. Those 35 and 60's are great.My ESC has never approached feeling warm, but when the ambient temp is 80+ the motor heats up a bit.
Sounds like you had a good dayrunning through 8 LIPOS.
Finally, have you got a good tech for adjusting gear mesh?? I can never seem to get mine right without an inordinate amount of fiddling.
Thanks
Do you find that your wheels fit a bit looser when you use tthe music wire instead of the spring pins? I was checking my evader our the other day after running ans I noticed my rear wheels were a bit loose. So I tightened them downand they started to bind.
My wheelscould be getting a littleclapped out though.
I've got the AL hub carriers. They are strong, but there is a little too much slop where the bearing fit for my liking. So much infact,Ihad to wrap my bearingsin thin tape. I went back to the magnaflex carriers with screw through studs.
I've got the Hobbywing 60A ESC with a TACON 32KV motor. Those 35 and 60's are great.My ESC has never approached feeling warm, but when the ambient temp is 80+ the motor heats up a bit.
Sounds like you had a good dayrunning through 8 LIPOS.
Finally, have you got a good tech for adjusting gear mesh?? I can never seem to get mine right without an inordinate amount of fiddling.
Thanks
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
Stuff I've done to my Evader to make it tougher:
Drivetrain - Replaced diff with brushless-model metal diff (BIGGEST improvement!), replaced diff drive-cup retainer-pin/bevel-gear pin with .047in/1.19mm music wire, installed DTX CV axles and replaced CV pin with 1.19mm music wire, used .062in/1,57mm music wire for wheel drive pins. Lube diff & tranny with Trak-Power Gear Grease.
Chassis: Added a front bumper (RPM) (this was b4 DTX came out with the bumper for BL model). Tho I installed a graphite chassis, it was only cuz I got it dirt cheap. I wouldn't recommend one, as they're more brittle. BUT graphite rear hubs will last MUCH longer than stock. Aluminum would also be good here. Installed "screw-through" as opposed to "screw-IN" ball studs and secured them with a nut in the rear hubs. The only other aluminum part I like is the motor plate. Pricey at $25, but it helps cool the motor. Replace the two screws at the front of the chassis brace that screw into the bulkhead with longer screws, and nuts. Those always pull out if you don't. (maybe an aluminum front bulkhead would also solve that) Replaced ALL screws with hex-head, phillips suck! The rear of the car could use a bumper. The BL model wheelie bar and rear chassis plate would suffice. Upgraded to aluminum or hard-anodized shocks.
Wheels and tires: I run on dirt, and I've found that I like Pro-Line Gladiators on the rear, Dirt Hawg II's on the front, with RPM Slingshot wheels that also fit the Losi XXX-T.
Body: Get a tube a Shoe-Goo and put a coat along the bottom edges of the body about a half inch wide. The rear edge of the body at the "spoiler lip" is particularly susceptible to cracking, also the reliefs in the body for the rear shock tops.
With these mods, my cars have no trouble being run hard. I run HobbyWing EZrun 35A/9T(4300kv) motor systems geared 18/87 on 2S LiPo with no problems and plenty of power and speed. (40mph) Tho my buddy is saying he thinks he likes the 3000kv motor better with that system. More useable throttle range.
EGbasher and Ihad a race day a couple days ago. Ran thru EIGHT LiPos! That's a really good day. Didn't break anything until the end of the day when a chance hit broke my servo-saver arm. Got a spare, tho....
Stuff I've done to my Evader to make it tougher:
Drivetrain - Replaced diff with brushless-model metal diff (BIGGEST improvement!), replaced diff drive-cup retainer-pin/bevel-gear pin with .047in/1.19mm music wire, installed DTX CV axles and replaced CV pin with 1.19mm music wire, used .062in/1,57mm music wire for wheel drive pins. Lube diff & tranny with Trak-Power Gear Grease.
Chassis: Added a front bumper (RPM) (this was b4 DTX came out with the bumper for BL model). Tho I installed a graphite chassis, it was only cuz I got it dirt cheap. I wouldn't recommend one, as they're more brittle. BUT graphite rear hubs will last MUCH longer than stock. Aluminum would also be good here. Installed "screw-through" as opposed to "screw-IN" ball studs and secured them with a nut in the rear hubs. The only other aluminum part I like is the motor plate. Pricey at $25, but it helps cool the motor. Replace the two screws at the front of the chassis brace that screw into the bulkhead with longer screws, and nuts. Those always pull out if you don't. (maybe an aluminum front bulkhead would also solve that) Replaced ALL screws with hex-head, phillips suck! The rear of the car could use a bumper. The BL model wheelie bar and rear chassis plate would suffice. Upgraded to aluminum or hard-anodized shocks.
Wheels and tires: I run on dirt, and I've found that I like Pro-Line Gladiators on the rear, Dirt Hawg II's on the front, with RPM Slingshot wheels that also fit the Losi XXX-T.
Body: Get a tube a Shoe-Goo and put a coat along the bottom edges of the body about a half inch wide. The rear edge of the body at the "spoiler lip" is particularly susceptible to cracking, also the reliefs in the body for the rear shock tops.
With these mods, my cars have no trouble being run hard. I run HobbyWing EZrun 35A/9T(4300kv) motor systems geared 18/87 on 2S LiPo with no problems and plenty of power and speed. (40mph) Tho my buddy is saying he thinks he likes the 3000kv motor better with that system. More useable throttle range.
EGbasher and Ihad a race day a couple days ago. Ran thru EIGHT LiPos! That's a really good day. Didn't break anything until the end of the day when a chance hit broke my servo-saver arm. Got a spare, tho....
10-31-2012, 06:23 PM
#881
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
it takes practice but sooner or later you'll be able to eyeball it and have it set correctly. last time i had to manually set mesh (my current car has 4 preset meshes, no adjusting needed/possible) i didnt even need to look, i just felt the right amount of tention and cranked the screw as tight as possible. that gear never stripped. i really need to get one of the evaders running...
11-01-2012, 06:20 AM
#882
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Simple thing on the gear mesh. You get a piece of regular computer paper about a 1/2" by 1/2" square, stick it between the gears (Be sure not to fold it), and pinch the spur and pinion together as tight as possible. Then with the paper still in there (and still pinching it tight), tighten down the motor screws. It gives a perfect mesh everytime! 
I know what you mean with the wheels having a lot of slop, mine are the same way. I just got new wheels and tires, and after tightening down because I thought they had too much slop, they started to bind too. Not sure what to do about that. I also thought that maybe the bearings are worn out. 
I don't know about using music wire, it seems like if it's not springed, that it would just slide out and not fit tight.
I know what you mean with the wheels having a lot of slop, mine are the same way. I just got new wheels and tires, and after tightening down because I thought they had too much slop, they started to bind too. Not sure what to do about that. I also thought that maybe the bearings are worn out. I don't know about using music wire, it seems like if it's not springed, that it would just slide out and not fit tight.
ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler
Hey Rob,
Do you find that your wheels fit a bit looser when you use tthe music wire instead of the spring pins? I was checking my evader our the other day after running ans I noticed my rear wheels were a bit loose. So I tightened them down and they started to bind.
My wheels could be getting a little clapped out though.
I've got the AL hub carriers. They are strong, but there is a little too much slop where the bearing fit for my liking. So much infact, I had to wrap my bearings in thin tape. I went back to the magnaflex carriers with screw through studs.
I've got the Hobbywing 60A ESC with a TACON 32KV motor. Those 35 and 60's are great. My ESC has never approached feeling warm, but when the ambient temp is 80+ the motor heats up a bit.
Sounds like you had a good day running through 8 LIPOS.
Finally, have you got a good tech for adjusting gear mesh?? I can never seem to get mine right without an inordinate amount of fiddling.
Thanks
Hey Rob,
Do you find that your wheels fit a bit looser when you use tthe music wire instead of the spring pins? I was checking my evader our the other day after running ans I noticed my rear wheels were a bit loose. So I tightened them down and they started to bind.
My wheels could be getting a little clapped out though.
I've got the AL hub carriers. They are strong, but there is a little too much slop where the bearing fit for my liking. So much infact, I had to wrap my bearings in thin tape. I went back to the magnaflex carriers with screw through studs.
I've got the Hobbywing 60A ESC with a TACON 32KV motor. Those 35 and 60's are great. My ESC has never approached feeling warm, but when the ambient temp is 80+ the motor heats up a bit.
Sounds like you had a good day running through 8 LIPOS.
Finally, have you got a good tech for adjusting gear mesh?? I can never seem to get mine right without an inordinate amount of fiddling.
Thanks
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
Stuff I've done to my Evader to make it tougher:
Drivetrain - Replaced diff with brushless-model metal diff (BIGGEST improvement!), replaced diff drive-cup retainer-pin/bevel-gear pin with .047in/1.19mm music wire, installed DTX CV axles and replaced CV pin with 1.19mm music wire, used .062in/1,57mm music wire for wheel drive pins. Lube diff & tranny with Trak-Power Gear Grease.
Chassis: Added a front bumper (RPM) (this was b4 DTX came out with the bumper for BL model). Tho I installed a graphite chassis, it was only cuz I got it dirt cheap. I wouldn't recommend one, as they're more brittle. BUT graphite rear hubs will last MUCH longer than stock. Aluminum would also be good here. Installed "screw-through" as opposed to "screw-IN" ball studs and secured them with a nut in the rear hubs. The only other aluminum part I like is the motor plate. Pricey at $25, but it helps cool the motor. Replace the two screws at the front of the chassis brace that screw into the bulkhead with longer screws, and nuts. Those always pull out if you don't. (maybe an aluminum front bulkhead would also solve that) Replaced ALL screws with hex-head, phillips suck! The rear of the car could use a bumper. The BL model wheelie bar and rear chassis plate would suffice. Upgraded to aluminum or hard-anodized shocks.
Wheels and tires: I run on dirt, and I've found that I like Pro-Line Gladiators on the rear, Dirt Hawg II's on the front, with RPM Slingshot wheels that also fit the Losi XXX-T.
Body: Get a tube a Shoe-Goo and put a coat along the bottom edges of the body about a half inch wide. The rear edge of the body at the "spoiler lip" is particularly susceptible to cracking, also the reliefs in the body for the rear shock tops.
With these mods, my cars have no trouble being run hard. I run HobbyWing EZrun 35A/9T(4300kv) motor systems geared 18/87 on 2S LiPo with no problems and plenty of power and speed. (40mph) Tho my buddy is saying he thinks he likes the 3000kv motor better with that system. More useable throttle range.
EGbasher and I had a race day a couple days ago. Ran thru EIGHT LiPos! That's a really good day. Didn't break anything until the end of the day when a chance hit broke my servo-saver arm. Got a spare, tho....
Stuff I've done to my Evader to make it tougher:
Drivetrain - Replaced diff with brushless-model metal diff (BIGGEST improvement!), replaced diff drive-cup retainer-pin/bevel-gear pin with .047in/1.19mm music wire, installed DTX CV axles and replaced CV pin with 1.19mm music wire, used .062in/1,57mm music wire for wheel drive pins. Lube diff & tranny with Trak-Power Gear Grease.
Chassis: Added a front bumper (RPM) (this was b4 DTX came out with the bumper for BL model). Tho I installed a graphite chassis, it was only cuz I got it dirt cheap. I wouldn't recommend one, as they're more brittle. BUT graphite rear hubs will last MUCH longer than stock. Aluminum would also be good here. Installed "screw-through" as opposed to "screw-IN" ball studs and secured them with a nut in the rear hubs. The only other aluminum part I like is the motor plate. Pricey at $25, but it helps cool the motor. Replace the two screws at the front of the chassis brace that screw into the bulkhead with longer screws, and nuts. Those always pull out if you don't. (maybe an aluminum front bulkhead would also solve that) Replaced ALL screws with hex-head, phillips suck! The rear of the car could use a bumper. The BL model wheelie bar and rear chassis plate would suffice. Upgraded to aluminum or hard-anodized shocks.
Wheels and tires: I run on dirt, and I've found that I like Pro-Line Gladiators on the rear, Dirt Hawg II's on the front, with RPM Slingshot wheels that also fit the Losi XXX-T.
Body: Get a tube a Shoe-Goo and put a coat along the bottom edges of the body about a half inch wide. The rear edge of the body at the "spoiler lip" is particularly susceptible to cracking, also the reliefs in the body for the rear shock tops.
With these mods, my cars have no trouble being run hard. I run HobbyWing EZrun 35A/9T(4300kv) motor systems geared 18/87 on 2S LiPo with no problems and plenty of power and speed. (40mph) Tho my buddy is saying he thinks he likes the 3000kv motor better with that system. More useable throttle range.
EGbasher and I had a race day a couple days ago. Ran thru EIGHT LiPos! That's a really good day. Didn't break anything until the end of the day when a chance hit broke my servo-saver arm. Got a spare, tho....
11-01-2012, 08:34 AM
#883
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey guys,
I think the "slop" you guys are experiencing have more to do with the hub carriers and/or bearings. I have some new parts coming in to resolve that issue myself. While the music wire drive pins do not fit tightly in the holes in the axle, I don't believe I've noticed that they cause wheel slop. What I HAVE noticed is that most of my ball studs are worn out, which can also cause some looseness in the suspension. I need to replace all my ball studs. On the 'vader with the plastic hub carriers, the hole the hinge-pin goes thru has gotten out of round from wear, and is causing a lot of slop, and the rear arms have the same problem, so I'm replacing those.
Interesting that your aluminum hubs don't hold the bearings tightly and you have to tape them. What a pain!
As for gear mesh, I just eyeball it / feel it. But like DieHard said, the paper trick works well.
Yeah I'm real happy with the HobbyWing products. No trouble at all. ESCs NEVER get hot, but on warm days, we do have to keep an eye (that is, temp gun) on the motor temp. Although, at 87/18 gearing, even on warm days, the motor seems to stay below 160, so I think it's pretty well dialed-in. I wonder: does one notice a difference in power/torque/speed going from a 35A ESC to a 60A? And does it really get you anything? I just tried playing with the Punch Control setting the other day, and set it for max, and it made the car almost un-controlable. I couldn't roll-on the throttle as easily and the wheels would just spin, making it hard to get a good hook-up, and travel in a straight line. I set it back to 5. But then, I do need new tires on the rear, and the fronts could do with a re-foam.
I think the "slop" you guys are experiencing have more to do with the hub carriers and/or bearings. I have some new parts coming in to resolve that issue myself. While the music wire drive pins do not fit tightly in the holes in the axle, I don't believe I've noticed that they cause wheel slop. What I HAVE noticed is that most of my ball studs are worn out, which can also cause some looseness in the suspension. I need to replace all my ball studs. On the 'vader with the plastic hub carriers, the hole the hinge-pin goes thru has gotten out of round from wear, and is causing a lot of slop, and the rear arms have the same problem, so I'm replacing those.
Interesting that your aluminum hubs don't hold the bearings tightly and you have to tape them. What a pain!
As for gear mesh, I just eyeball it / feel it. But like DieHard said, the paper trick works well.
Yeah I'm real happy with the HobbyWing products. No trouble at all. ESCs NEVER get hot, but on warm days, we do have to keep an eye (that is, temp gun) on the motor temp. Although, at 87/18 gearing, even on warm days, the motor seems to stay below 160, so I think it's pretty well dialed-in. I wonder: does one notice a difference in power/torque/speed going from a 35A ESC to a 60A? And does it really get you anything? I just tried playing with the Punch Control setting the other day, and set it for max, and it made the car almost un-controlable. I couldn't roll-on the throttle as easily and the wheels would just spin, making it hard to get a good hook-up, and travel in a straight line. I set it back to 5. But then, I do need new tires on the rear, and the fronts could do with a re-foam.
11-03-2012, 04:07 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey, got a question. This is my first year of using lipo batteries, and now that the season is pretty much over, how do I store them? Like, at what voltage should I store them. Should I just run them down to the lipo cut-off and put them away there?
Cumquat: I'm back in Grand Haven again.
11-03-2012, 04:30 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
your charger should have a "storage" setting, use that if they'll be sitting for a month or longer. what i do is give it a full charge then run for about 10 minutes (i get between 40 and 70 minutes from a pack) then just leave it in the buggy. i must say though, 2wd in the snow can be quite fun.
11-03-2012, 05:24 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Hey, got a question. This is my first year of using lipo batteries, and now that the season is pretty much over, how do I store them? Like, at what voltage should I store them. Should I just run them down to the lipo cut-off and put them away there?
Cumquat: I'm back in Grand Haven again.
Hey, got a question. This is my first year of using lipo batteries, and now that the season is pretty much over, how do I store them? Like, at what voltage should I store them. Should I just run them down to the lipo cut-off and put them away there?
Cumquat: I'm back in Grand Haven again.
EDIT: I found this "You want the storage charge function all the time and to be stored at 3.8-3.85v per cell." Also if your looking for good Lipos for a decent price Gens Ace makes some great packs.
11-03-2012, 07:10 PM
#889
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
That's a great little charger. EGbasher the buddy I run with has one. He loves it. Nice and quiet too.
Wish I'd gotten one.....
BTW guys, putting on new rear axle carriers and a few new ball studs and rod ends did a lot to tighten up the rear wheel slop on my cars. Once I get the A-arms on, they should be good as new. No play at all. Got one new set of rear wheels w/ Gladiators, and I re-foamed the front tires for the 2nd time. Boy what a difference new rubber and foam makes!
Wish I'd gotten one.....
BTW guys, putting on new rear axle carriers and a few new ball studs and rod ends did a lot to tighten up the rear wheel slop on my cars. Once I get the A-arms on, they should be good as new. No play at all. Got one new set of rear wheels w/ Gladiators, and I re-foamed the front tires for the 2nd time. Boy what a difference new rubber and foam makes!
11-04-2012, 04:35 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Thanks for suggesting the charger, but I've already got one. It's a Venom Pro charger. It does have the storage setting and I have tried it. But when I tried it, and came back like a half an hour later, it discharged only like 0.06. Is it supposed to be this slow? Is there something wrong with my charger? How fast do other chargers discharge?
ORIGINAL: Crash7772
There is a set voltage range to store them at (don't remember what it is off the top of my head) so if your charger doesn't have a storage setting you can run it down and charge it to the setting (assuming your charger shows the voltage when charging). Lastly if your charger has neither feature you can use a volt meter to check the voltage but if your charger has neither you might want to look into a better charger. I would suggest this one http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html and I'm pretty sure I paid less for mine from a different vendor.
EDIT: I found this "You want the storage charge function all the time and to be stored at 3.8-3.85v per cell." Also if your looking for good Lipos for a decent price Gens Ace makes some great packs.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Hey, got a question. This is my first year of using lipo batteries, and now that the season is pretty much over, how do I store them? Like, at what voltage should I store them. Should I just run them down to the lipo cut-off and put them away there?
Cumquat: I'm back in Grand Haven again.
Hey, got a question. This is my first year of using lipo batteries, and now that the season is pretty much over, how do I store them? Like, at what voltage should I store them. Should I just run them down to the lipo cut-off and put them away there?
Cumquat: I'm back in Grand Haven again.
EDIT: I found this "You want the storage charge function all the time and to be stored at 3.8-3.85v per cell." Also if your looking for good Lipos for a decent price Gens Ace makes some great packs.
11-04-2012, 12:41 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Thanks for suggesting the charger, but I've already got one. It's a Venom Pro charger. It does have the storage setting and I have tried it. But when I tried it, and came back like a half an hour later, it discharged only like 0.06. Is it supposed to be this slow? Is there something wrong with my charger? How fast do other chargers discharge?
Thanks for suggesting the charger, but I've already got one. It's a Venom Pro charger. It does have the storage setting and I have tried it. But when I tried it, and came back like a half an hour later, it discharged only like 0.06. Is it supposed to be this slow? Is there something wrong with my charger? How fast do other chargers discharge?
ORIGINAL: Crash7772
There is a set voltage range to store them at (don't remember what it is off the top of my head) so if your charger doesn't have a storage setting you can run it down and charge it to the setting (assuming your charger shows the voltage when charging). Lastly if your charger has neither feature you can use a volt meter to check the voltage but if your charger has neither you might want to look into a better charger. I would suggest this one http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html and I'm pretty sure I paid less for mine from a different vendor.
EDIT: I found this ''You want the storage charge function all the time and to be stored at 3.8-3.85v per cell.'' Also if your looking for good Lipos for a decent price Gens Ace makes some great packs.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Hey, got a question. This is my first year of using lipo batteries, and now that the season is pretty much over, how do I store them? Like, at what voltage should I store them. Should I just run them down to the lipo cut-off and put them away there?
Cumquat: I'm back in Grand Haven again.
Hey, got a question. This is my first year of using lipo batteries, and now that the season is pretty much over, how do I store them? Like, at what voltage should I store them. Should I just run them down to the lipo cut-off and put them away there?
Cumquat: I'm back in Grand Haven again.
EDIT: I found this ''You want the storage charge function all the time and to be stored at 3.8-3.85v per cell.'' Also if your looking for good Lipos for a decent price Gens Ace makes some great packs.
the lug
11-05-2012, 04:05 AM
#892
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Ok, I set it up for storage charge last night, and this morning it read 7.6 v in the pack, and 3.8v per cell. I guess that's where they want you to store it at.[&:]
11-05-2012, 02:49 PM
#894
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Hey, What's the difference between ceramic bearings and regular bearings? What is in an Evader ST?
Hey, What's the difference between ceramic bearings and regular bearings? What is in an Evader ST?
the lug
11-05-2012, 06:03 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Got most of my parts in today (still waiting on the metal idlers which show in stock at Tower now). Gonna build up 2 of my trans (one in truck and one spare), swap my toasted rubber tires out for foams, tweak suspension, add some weight to the front, and hope for warm enough weather to make a run or two. Just hoping it all holds together, would love to put 4s to it but would be pushing the limits on the motor.
11-05-2012, 07:35 PM
#896
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
4S in an Evader?! Never heard that before. 
ORIGINAL: Crash7772
Got most of my parts in today (still waiting on the metal idlers which show in stock at Tower now). Gonna build up 2 of my trans (one in truck and one spare), swap my toasted rubber tires out for foams, tweak suspension, add some weight to the front, and hope for warm enough weather to make a run or two. Just hoping it all holds together, would love to put 4s to it but would be pushing the limits on the motor.
Got most of my parts in today (still waiting on the metal idlers which show in stock at Tower now). Gonna build up 2 of my trans (one in truck and one spare), swap my toasted rubber tires out for foams, tweak suspension, add some weight to the front, and hope for warm enough weather to make a run or two. Just hoping it all holds together, would love to put 4s to it but would be pushing the limits on the motor.
11-05-2012, 08:50 PM
#897
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
4S in an Evader?! Never heard that before. [img][/img]
4S in an Evader?! Never heard that before. [img][/img]
ORIGINAL: Crash7772
Got most of my parts in today (still waiting on the metal idlers which show in stock at Tower now). Gonna build up 2 of my trans (one in truck and one spare), swap my toasted rubber tires out for foams, tweak suspension, add some weight to the front, and hope for warm enough weather to make a run or two. Just hoping it all holds together, would love to put 4s to it but would be pushing the limits on the motor.
Got most of my parts in today (still waiting on the metal idlers which show in stock at Tower now). Gonna build up 2 of my trans (one in truck and one spare), swap my toasted rubber tires out for foams, tweak suspension, add some weight to the front, and hope for warm enough weather to make a run or two. Just hoping it all holds together, would love to put 4s to it but would be pushing the limits on the motor.
11-06-2012, 05:53 AM
#898
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I tried 3S in my Evader, I couldn't handle it. Crazy power. Crazy speed. Gearing doesn't really make a difference on 3S. I can't imagine what 4S would do. I ended up returning my 3S and getting a 2S. Maybe someday I'll be back there for a 3S.
ORIGINAL: Crash7772
I tried 3s with the stock ST Pro gears but that lasted about 2 mins before the idler got lunched. My current setup on 3s is rated for 93 mph, it raises it to 123 mph on 4s but also puts my 5700kv motor on it's limit for RPM's. I will be happy to hit/break 80mph on 3s though or as long as I can stay faster than my buddies Project Rustler. Would be sweet to break the 100mph mark in an Evader though.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
4S in an Evader?! Never heard that before. [img][/img]
4S in an Evader?! Never heard that before. [img][/img]
ORIGINAL: Crash7772
Got most of my parts in today (still waiting on the metal idlers which show in stock at Tower now). Gonna build up 2 of my trans (one in truck and one spare), swap my toasted rubber tires out for foams, tweak suspension, add some weight to the front, and hope for warm enough weather to make a run or two. Just hoping it all holds together, would love to put 4s to it but would be pushing the limits on the motor.
Got most of my parts in today (still waiting on the metal idlers which show in stock at Tower now). Gonna build up 2 of my trans (one in truck and one spare), swap my toasted rubber tires out for foams, tweak suspension, add some weight to the front, and hope for warm enough weather to make a run or two. Just hoping it all holds together, would love to put 4s to it but would be pushing the limits on the motor.
11-06-2012, 07:53 AM
#899
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Ho-lee-crap! An Evader trying to do 100mph?! An Evader (and pigs) will FLY before you get to that speed, methinks. Look at all the work Traxxas did on the XO-1 to get it to go 100....super low to the ground, active ground effects, special tires, etc.... Good luck tho.....
11-06-2012, 08:30 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
100 is an easier feat that you'd think. the hardest part is actually controlling it. traxxas likes to over-complicate things, mostly as an attempt to justify their excessive prices.