jchorak

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Tomcat_ 104,
What size solo prop did you go with?
Thanks,
John

Tomcat_104

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John,

I bought a 20" 3 bladed satin black prop. I sure hope this was the best choice. I thought it was at the time. NRG spent about 30 - 40 minutes on the phone to make me feel that this was the right decision. It runs great on the test stand!

David
[email protected]

cimara

I plan on getting the fiberglass cowl from fiberglass specialties with the open flaps . to round off the fuse do i put the pine or spruce on the inside all the way around the fuse crutch box and should i glue the wood to the box and to f2 or would a 3\4 inch thick ring all the way around the out side be sufficient? how hard would it be to run the exhaust to the stock location or would that be to big a pain? yes i am going to use a dummy engine as the baffle. yes i am using robart retracts should be here tues or wed . is it ok to hide the off switch inside the cockpit or as an antenna.has anyone considered folding wings its beyond anything i can do but i woud like to see some pics of one with that mod if its even possable

wulf190

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Pics....

cimara

wow what detail wolf how did you do those panel lines they look great

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

1/64" Charpak tape for the lines Cimmer. Can stock up on what you need at www.supplies.net I order a bunch of rolls at a time as I seem to go through quite a lot of it. Probably about 3 rolls or so for a plane this big I think.

ctflyboy

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Hey Mike,
simply put Just AWESOME ,

George

ctflyboy

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Mike,
I just sprayed the 2nd coat of primer on the wing this evening, going to start sanding the fuse tomorrow and get that ready for the 2nd coat.


George

wulf190

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Thanks guys. Nice of ya' to say. I'll have to start combing over more pictures now for other stuff to add. Seeing the pics of the planes at Bomber field in the thread here is pretty inspiring. I'm fairly anxious to see some color on the fuse now, but a spare 2 or 3 hours to spray and clean up is tough to come by at the moment.

cimara

wolf do you use te chart tape to just keep the piant from getting on certain areas like when you paint a car but remove the tape afterwards or is it in bedded into the paint to give a 3d look

duber3

HI everybody!!

I'm just starting my new top flite giant corsair, I've read almost everything in this tread, i have a question:
everybody here put a g62, I plan to put a fuji bt64 ei, but no one here have talk about this engine
is there a ploblem with the fuji engine, i know it's a little bit more expensive !

thank!!

wulf your corsair look awsome!!!

rt3232

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Hi every one

Cimara The 3/4 quarter try stock is fitted to the fuse skin and f/wall right to the stringers add a short piece of scrap to the stringers as filler. If you read Corsairjock's thread, it is all the way around, But I did not fined his thread soon enough, so I only did the lower half. To get a idea on scale exhaust you need to got to dion's B???hacus, thread. I'll have to look for the correct title, his method is really neet and when I build my next big corsair I will use his ideas for the exhaust exit points.

Wulf

Just Fantastic


Duber3
Don't know any thing about Fuji's, so I can only suggest you go to Gaint Scale airplanes, Sub-Forum "Gas Engines" mabe some help there, But I think the weight would be about right

Still no maiden the weather will not cooperate, eather wind 20 plus or rain...

Cheers Bob T

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

I think if you will spend some time on the gas engine forum, you'll find that the G-62 will enjoy almost universal acceptance, especially those modified to be lighter and have the electronic ignition.

The Fuji/Zenoah question was recently asked on that forum and the answer was all Zenoah except for one guy who had the Fuji...

I'd recommend that gas engine forum to you for more input on the various reasons why one is preferred over another. There is always the brand loyalty factor, but I just don't remember seeing too much about Fuji engines. I can't say about either one since I've not run either one, nor have I even seen a Fuji around here and only a few Zenoah's. I can't help you any more than that since mine's going to have a ZDZ in it...

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

You should be fine with the Fuji Duber. I know of a few guys using them with good success. It should fit fine in there I think...probably no worse than the Zenoah for space I would guess....and thanks for the comps.

Cimara, yes, just lay down the tape after a thin coat of primer and then prime over the lines. You'll need to build up the primer a little around the lines so that they show up sharply. I prefer to remove the tape, but I do know of guys who have just left it on. I used red tape on this one though as I think it shows up a little better when you're laying down the lines and is easier to see and spec out this way...just preference.

cimara

hi guys. question for you all i just stared building the fuse and i am having trouble with the fuse crutch on pg 23 part 8. if i do as they say and cut off the right crutch flush to the fuse crutch top the crutch will not line up to the plans. the right fuse crutch is short by an 1/8 of an inch am i missing somthing ? thanks for the help

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Cimara

I have my book out and the real key is be sure you have the top positioned right if you do you should be ok, one question did you make notes for the mod sheet that corrects some of the steps

Cheers Bob t

cimara

rt3232 i check the supplement sheets i didnt see any thing on this part of the build . i called topflight they are sending me another top plate thats the only thing they think might be wrong . its just strange that the other three corners line up perfectly but that one is off . was hoping i was missing somthing so i woulnd have to waght for new parts . the front edge of your crutch top look like it has a slight arc to it?

cimara

has any one used carbon fiber control rods before i am thinking of using them for the first time but i am not sure if they need to run through a sleeve like golden rods do

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Cimara

No personel exp, My flying buddy has them in and extra 300, madien they were onlly supported in one place, he said elevator felt spungee, he added 3 more supports and that tightened it to rock solid, and they were in tubes, on his baby scale he was not able to detect a diferance in weight.. original push rods were wood dowel he cahnged as he did not trust the wood at the size given..

Hope this helps

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Cimara, I've got the Sullivan semi-flex carbon fiber jobs in my FW. It needed long ones...the 48"ers and they're supported much as they would be if you put them in the F4U, at the formers going forward in the fuse. They're very nice--expensive for a set of pushrods I thought, but I liked them.....and got more for the other FW I'll be doing as a result. I do think that they're better than the stock setup. I'm not a real fan of the stock recommendation here, but it does seem to work effectively for guys, and as I bought mine already framed up with them in it, there they stay.

The cockpit base --if you're using one--will ride right on top of the pushrods so you might like to keep them in the same spot and just drill the holes a little bigger for the larger diameter sheaths that come for the pushrods.

You can also use carbon fiber arrow shafts with the 4-40 ends from Central hobbies if you want a totally stiff pushrod to the back vs. the semi flex. You couldn't use the semi-flex ones without the tubes for them, but the arrow shafts are good to go without them.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Cimara

Found the threads on scale exhausts it is one of these " F2G Corsair Build or Royal Corsair ,60 Project" by Dionysusbacchus both have pic's, One outher that is aimed at Top Flite is "1/8 Scale Top Flite Mods" By Corsairjock These are old threads with lots of great info and ideas.



Cheers Bob T

cimara

thanks Wolf and Bob great info i think i will use the arrow shafts since i dont have to tube them not sure what all that metal next to the antenna might do . those threads on the smaller corsair are great they really went all out on theirs

RCPILOT78

I have been reading the last posts and I was originally going to go with possibly the arrow shafts but have you built the tail end of the fuse yet ? there isn't any room for arrow shafts ..you have to clear all the tail wheel construction....you could use them but you would have to use long steel rods again to reach the control horns....those long steel rods leads will flex..my fix is to use the steel rods supplied and I am going to install an i4c isolator...all the flyers with large birds at my field use it with no probems...I called the company i4c and inquired about the steel rod interference and they advised that the isolator will protect from any R/F interference as long as you don't have loose metal to metal vibration..most of the connections are metal to nylon connections...correct me if i am wrong about the shafts...has any successfully used the arrow shafts

cimara

Man thanks for the info i didnt check that i guess i will use the sullivan simi flexcarbon fiber rods that wolf used in his FW post 943 . u think they will work ? to many things to think of when changing things from the plan.

cimara

fiberglass specialties works fast orderd my cowl tues got fri and boy it looks so mutch better than the one in the kit got to come up with a way to mount it but thats a ways off