BigBoy99

I had the same minds, thank you Bill and John[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]


Bernie

Stickbuilder

Thanks Guys...

Has anyone noticed that in the various magazines, all the builders/assembliers always mount the dummy engine with one clyinder at bottom dead center? I got to looking last night, and even Dick Pettit did this with the 1/6 scale version of the ARF that is in this months RCR. He also mounted the engine 90 degrees, and cut the clearence for the valve covers for the Saito .82. I think that he could have mounted the engine straight up and cut out the cowl inside the blisters, and not have needed to open the cowl up. He also commented that the Interplane struts were built wrong. Looks as if he used the Interplane struts on the wrong wings and upside down. One of the guys here locally was having that problem, and we changed sides, and turned them upside down, and they worked as they were supposed to.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Bill,

Yes many builders have done that. I have also seen the actual power plant mounted inverted with the cylinder mounted between the lower dummy engine cylinders. These guys need to join the Brotherhood to get things correct.

I think many builders are locked into mounting the engines at O° (upright), 90° (horizontal) or 180° (inverted) as beam mounts built in were usually for those positions. With todays radial mounts being used, there is no reason not to line up the actual power plant cylinder with the correctly mounted dummy engine and remove the dummy cylinder to blend it in. One of the Brotherhood did mount his Single Cylinder Four Stroke engine upright and just removed a tiny bit of the Cowl Bumps for the rocker arms and did a nice job. The guys using twin or 3 cylinder 4s engines usually don't have to cut the cowl, but have a slightly harder time hiding the real cylinders behind the dummy engine. Lets let companies like Williams Bros., Top Flight and others know that there is a demand for 7 cylinder engines. I have written to the new owner of Williams Bros. and he says it is on the list as soon as they get the original WB stuff back in supply and some other stuff completed.

Here is a picture of the Continental engine in UBF-2 NC 2091K.

Stickbuilder

John,

Great idea. I think that Williams Brothers would be the ideal people to replicate the Shaky Jake. No matter how hard you try, you won't make a Pratt & Whitney cylinder or a Continental cylinder look like a Jacobs. I can't wait for someone to come out with one.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Bill,

I am of the same opinion, Williams Brothers would be the best with their attention to detail on the parts. The resin cast and blow molded stuff just doesn't get it. Below is the response I got from Dan shortly after Toledo when I wrote to him.

Hi John,
oh boy, I hear you on that one! Once I get this business on it's feet, I'll be looking at what it takes to fill the gaps in the model engine world! The Jacobs was on the list for sure. Also, things like Continental for J-3 Cubs!
I'll be digging into the whole mold making process later this year.
I know some of those resin kits are actually casted from our cylinders when times got desperate after WmBros, Inc went out of business. I can't blame them, but the plastic injected type is really hard to beat for detail and durability.

This line needs to grow in order to survive, so I'll be looking at several items to add to the line!

Thank you for the input- I like to hear what people are after and on the wish lists out there!
I take it seriously!


Daniel J. Brett, President
Williams Brothers Model Products
a Division of Brett Industries, Inc.
2210 West 2nd Street, Suite B
P.O. Box 809
Taylor, TX 76574
Office: 512-352-9346
Fax: 512-352-9356

So guys, drop Dan a line, give him a call and let him know we want the 7 cylinder radials. I suggested the Jacobs in 1/5th first, then the Continental in 1/5th followed by the other sizes (including a full display version and individual cylinders). Let him know what you want as I believe he is listening to us.

ccrebidoux

My Feedback: (3)

Aaaaaahhhhhh!!! I was unaware of this. Please excuse the uninformed posting from Canada. [sm=red_smile.gif]

Chris

Stickbuilder

Nothing wrong with being uninformed. That's what the Brotherhood exixts for, to help others. Give us a shout if we can help. If you wish to be a Brother, just let us know.

Bill, AMA 4720
Waco Brotherhood #1

SuperCub Man

How does one install the landing lights? I have never put actual operating landing lights on a model before but rather just indicated them. Flying lights I have used. I am worried that cutting into the L.E. will weaken the structure. How do you guys do it?

Stickbuilder

If you are talking about the kit, the strength comes from the spars and the shear webbing. I think that you can remove that portion of the L/E and never worry about it. If it really bothers you, make a box assembly from lite ply and use it as the basis for the housing of the light. Then it would become stronger there than at any other point of the leading edge.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

General Information,

Just received a nice message form Darrell over at Sierra giant, asking about the Scale size needed for the Waco gear. We will see what comes of this. It would be great to have a scale gear set for these. I would immediately tear out the bottom of the new one and rebuild it if I could have a scale set.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

FMBB

Hi SupercubMan,

no problem with cutting the LE. You have just to make sure that both ends are ajusted by means of halfe ribs. There is no realy need to build a ply case around the LE cut out. The main spares will take care of the loads and not the LE. I used 12 smal Halogen lamps which perfectly fit on the third scale version and if lit specially on a grey cloudy day belive me you will not forget this.

Best regards
FMBB

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

The only time this is accurate is if the radial is a twin row, as the rear row is the first row in the numbering sequence, and #1 would still be at the top, and since the rows are offset, the front row would have a cylinder at the bottom. I was looking at a P-47 and noticed the engine was "upside down" and got to looking at other radial installations. In every case, single row engines always have a cylinder at the top, and multi-row engines have a cylinder at the bottom on the frontmost row.

He can't help it, he's Navy

skylarkmk1

Jim,

Go to “The Cub Den� http://www.thecubden.org/ “Lighting a Cub�. There he describes how he installed the landing lights and what he used. He also tells how he made the tip lights (very similar to Waco lights). There is also info on “How-To� make other scale details on the site.

P1 Front view of YMF Classic NC 14081 showing the locations of the lights on the lower wing.
P2 Close up of the Landing Light. Inboard light is partially blocked by paint/shield over the “lens cover�, probably to reduce glare for the pilot.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Another good thing to use for landing lights are the reflectors and LED bulbs from those small Mini-Maglights, the ones that use AAA and AA batteries. These are good for the smaller 1/4 and 1/5 scales. The LED's use very little battery power, and if you hook them up into the other lighting system (nav lights), they will operate a long time on a small battery. One way to operate them is to use a switch mixed into the throttle or flap channel, so when throttle is reduced for approach, or the flaps are deployed, the landing lights come on.


Skylark--howyadoin? Looks from the pics like you're getting up to CCA fairly regularly, wish I was there. I got a e-mail from Joe, he'll be at the fly-in next year, said we've got a ride waiting. To me, that's worth the commercial ticket out there.

How is Ken coming along with his DR-I? and there's a great shot of Al flying the DH-4 in this month's Air & Space Smithsonian. The picture is made above and beside him, and he's looking up at the camera, while not far over the treetops. great shot.

BigBoy99

Hallo Herr Barth,

SIE HIER???? Freut mich

Gruß

Bernd Müller

skylarkmk1

Ken H,

Ken K is progressing on the DR-1. All of the major structures, internal fuse control fittings (joy stick and cable guides), many of the fittings (interplane strut fittings) and the “guns� are complete. He has most of the sheet metal and plywood on the fuse, the center wing has been test fitted in place (bolts line up with the mounts) and he is currently assembling the landing gear legs and box beam for the axle. He also has all the ribs built for the axle wing. He hopes to have it assembled and sitting on its wheels in the next couple of weeks. I’ll try and get some pictures next weekend.

I'll have to get a copy of the A & SS mag. I don't think Al was flying the DH-4 during the Fly-IN, I bet it was Glenn or Desmond.

SuperCub Man

Thanks very much for all that info on the lights. John, that Cub Den site is terrific! I just may use some of that info when I re-cover my poor old Supercub this winter. It was bashed from a BUSA J-3 and has done yoeman service over the past 5 years. Love my Cub as well!! I do intend to use superbrite LED's for all the running and landing lights. I want them to show up in the daylight - or at least on dull days!! I will be using a bunch of 900Mah AAA NiMh that I aquired which I can gang up to get enough oomph to drive them. Just finishing up the top wing so on to wing #2 tomorrow!

trlambsr

Bill
Glad to see that you have connected with Darrell. I think that the quality of Sierra products is the best out there. Way above Robart and Century. I have asked him to look beyond the YMF to the others. My hope is for A true Strong Scale landing gear and Tail wheel for all Sizes WACO's .
Thank you in advance for this support.
TR

WACO Brotherhood # 69

skylarkmk1

Jim,

Jump over to the Giant Scale Aircraft - General >> RE: Buiding pics Waco YMF-5 Barth Modellbau and go to the last entry (post #353). Bernie (BigBoy99) has a picture of his "N" struts that also shows the cut out in the leading edge for the landing lights. It should give you the idea for your YMF. Another view is in post #350.

Stickbuilder

TR.

A good source for the 1/5th scale tailwheel strut and fork is to contact damifino(Brother #25). He made some killer versions of the strut and fork (4130 chrome moly seamless no less). And they are perfect as well.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

STICKBUILDER,
i ALMOST JUMPED IN ON THAT EBAY WACO AND FINALLY SAID "I HAVE 3 IN THE BOX NOW,PLUS THE 1 I'M FLYING DO I REALLY WANT ANOTHER, AND FINALLY SAID NO.
BUT IT WAS TEMPTING TO SAY THE LEAST.
GEORGE
WACO Brotherhood # 5

Stickbuilder

George,

I, personally hope that the reason for the low selling price, is/was due to the fact that now anyone can order the plans and templates, buy the wood, order the cowl and wheel pants, and have a model of the WACO, built with new wood, for less than a die crunched old Pica kit.

Of course, it also might have to do with this being an opened kit, and from the photos that were taken, the box has suffered damage, and possibly the wood as well. The eventual buyer has been in contact with me, and plans to build it. Good for him. I wish him great success with it.

Me, I couldn't justify (a) another one of them, (b) having to recut so many parts, (c) finding space for another one. I am drooling over the prospect of being able to mount a Sierra Giant main gear set on mine. The main gear has always been a problem with this model, since there was no way to mount a true scale gear. I should not say that there was no way, since most of us could have made a working scale gear, if we had wanted to badly enough. Anyway, I can't wait to get my hands on one of the first sets. I have stopped working on the fuse until we find out if one will be available. I'm not going to tear the gear out of mine yet, but I don't want to have to undo more than I already will need to remove to change out the gear.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

hi bill I'm charlie i got the one from e-bay waiting delivery as I type , I'm r eading the thread up to page 56 a long one. I would like a mace gill so put me on your list if it transpires , spelling is not my thing as you can see ha ha , I would like to join the brotherhood if possible #36 if that is OK , Im a wwI flyer , fokkers , pups , etc , I have 1/4 1/3 pups, 1/3 dvII, `/4 d-vIII, and a gtm 1/4 d-vI just a few I have built.

happy landings charlie

Stickbuilder

Charlie,

We'd love to have you, but, #36 is long gone. It belongs to Jackk. #67 is available (as the next open number) and if you would like, that one is yours. Let me know.

I don't think that Mace will be cutting the kits. Since we made the templates available through the AMA plans service, you can now cut your own. The parts count for the YMF would make this a pretty expensive proposition for a kit cutter to attempt. We are probably talking in the $400.00 or higher range. You can get all the assistance that you require here. Please pay attention to the modifications that are offered to bring this one up to date. They are all worth your notice.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

bill 67 is just fine was my second choice anyway, can't wait for kit to get here board is empty waiting for it , how about a bcma 26 for power only 31/2' from center to top of head ?