mango12

If you can do the masks in 1/4 th scale, I'd love a set !!!!
Scott

damifino

I'll PM you, Mango.

damifino

[link]http://bredavik.se/flyingwire/[/link]
Brothers- Don't know if this site has been posted here before. Check out the gallery pages.

Stickbuilder

Jay,

Count me in.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

where to start..first I was selling off an rc collection mostly giant scale but came across this white bipe.I wasn't sure but now understand its a pica waco ymf..it was flow by the former ownerand since he passed away I cant ask many questions and so here I am.It is in excellent shape and has no visible crash damage.theres some paint peeling off on the rudder fin.and the wings need some touch up with paint.the details are wonderful and a fellow modeler said dont touch anything it adds to the scale.I am going to update with my own electronics and it has an OS120 which seems to be a good match for it. the engine and its condition led me to think it flew alot and was allowed to sit a long time likely due to his medical health..I am going to pull the engine and make sure its in good working conditon.I dont want to do much to it as its scale is awesome and like I said a 120 should handle it well.

One of my concerns is the gap in elevator and rudder hinging.he used robart hinge points so at worst case scenario just cut them out and install new ones narrowing the gap..I dont want to generate any flutter but given the majestic speed I sort of dont think its a problem.but want to know what you guys think.. beyond the cosmetic work and upgrade in servos etc it is a beautiful ship and I hear it flies like a charm..I have 25 years of rc lol.but not much with bipes..by the number of posts in here I think I just entered a hallowed place and a legend.

Tony V.

Damifino,
I would by a set today. also for the wheel pants.....
let me know,

Stickbuilder

Don't worry too much about gaps on this one. Any bleed through won't be noticed, and you won't ever fly it fast enough to worry about flutter. The full scale has a fairly significant gap as well, so your spacing adds to the scale realism. How about posting some pictures of the plane?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Jay, the cowl is beautiful. If I keep skinning up the chin of mine, I'll need a new one some day. And the idea of a mask to paint the thing is genius. It took me over an hour to mask off the blisters on mine, using masking tape, the biggest PITA of the whole paint job. The time saving and convenience alone is worth the price.

Bill, I don't want to tell anyone how to build their plane, but I think you'll find how I did mine (carb orientation) is quite convenient. I think you'll love this little powerhouse, it hauls the Waco around great.

SuperCub Man

Jay - count me in on the masks. That's the only part I though might be a problem. I'm thinking of getting masks made for the Waco logo as well. Most names lettering etc could be done with vinyl. I'm sending ou some sizable art I got from the net. May be of use!

damifino

A complete set of masks would not be out of the question, in other words, I will look into it. Stickbuilder, how about that original decal sheet you've got?

Live Wire

Jay
I have a set of decals 1/5 YMF if you want them you can have them. I will mail them to you.
Larry

Stickbuilder

Jay,

You say the word, and it's on it's way. I would be in for a set as well.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Ken,

I'm glad that you noticed that I had mine mounted differently. I removed the carb, and on closer inspection, found that the carb would never have pumped a drop of fuel. There is no pressure pulse slot available to the carb. mounted as I had it. I removed the metal arm and spring, and set mine up as you did yours. You probably saved me tons of headaches. You don't know how happy I am that you caught this.

Did you send your 26 out to Ralph for the Ignition change? I wonder if that would be worthwhile...It's probably expensive as all get out. I think that before I did that, I would do an engine swap, and just buy another G-26, but with the electronic ignition.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

damifino

Hold on to your decal set for now LIVEWIRE.
Stickbuilder, Send that decal set up here and I'll get something worked up. The vinyl cutter has a material specifically for masking so this is not new territory as far as the process goes. Simply apply the mask, tape off everything else and you'll be ready to paint some crisp graphics. As with any masked stripe a light coat of the main color of the plane should be applied to the masked area to seal the edges from bleeding. Then apply your stripe color or a neutral color followed by the stripe color (if the stripe is lighter than the main color of the plane).

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

stick...I will post a pic very soon.I just got the plane and marvelled at its classic lines..like I said most of the work is strictly cosmetic.the original builder was a very good builder.so the 120 is fine??as for the gaps I suspect they arent as bad as I described and I agree this is not a speed demon .I am looking foward to good ole fashiopn flying shooting touch and gos and a some sli[pping much like my big cub.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I'm happy it's gonna work out for you. I haven't done any mods to my -26, runs fine as is, and the weight of the stock engine is perfect to balance the plane without having to add "useless" weight. I don't know how to post the link, but there's a thread on the gas engines forum that has some pics of a G-26 worked over by Ralph; you wouldn't even recognize it as a Zenoah. Electronic ignition, and the flywheel in back is gone, the engine case looks like a Desert Aircraft, it's so small. On a plane where you don't want the nose weight, the modification would be worth it.

This engine isn't hard to start, especially after it's been run a while. It has capacitive discharge ignition, which puts a hotter spark to the plug and doesn't require quite as much of a prop flip to get enough from the magneto to fire the plug. My procedure to start it is to close the choke, switch off, throttle open, and give it a few quick flips to pull gas into the carb. Then I turn on the ignition switch, throttle full, and flip until it fires (usually three to five). Then open the choke, throttle at 1/4 or slightly less, and flip until it starts, usually twice or three times. This is for a cold start, once warmed up it usually takes one or two with the choke and then one or two without. I can't believe that EI would make it much easier to start, and then you have another battery to charge and worry about. The magneto engine will always run as long as there's gas in the tank.

Looks like you found the thread I was talking about. I was looking at doing this for a Super Decathlon I bought, because I really like the G-26, but I found another engine that served my needs without having to send it off for mods. My other concern for the Super D was a prop shaft long enough to allow the engine to clear the chin of the cowl. I certainly didn't want to cut it in front. I went with a BT32EI Fuji. Would have used the magneto version, but the flywheel is in front on the mag version and was afraid it would have rubbed the top of the cowl.

Stickbuilder

Ken,

I subscribe to that thread. It's called Lightening the G-26, and is in the Gas engine forum. I actually started to use my Fuji-Imvac BT-32 EI, on this one. It would have required serious cutting of the cowl, since the cylinder is longer than is the G-26, and due to the fact that the engine uses rear exhaust, which would have required cutting the entire bottom of the fuselage, and rebuilding it. I even considered using a 45 gasser which would have made for stupid power to weight, and I don't even want to consider a 3-D WACO.

I don't think that I will use the hand start on this, or any other gasser. I use the spring start feature on my G-62 engines (I know that the Torrington clutch robs a few RPM from the engine), but it is not offered on the 26. I will use my Big Bore electric starter for this one as well, since I don't relish the thought of a finger that close to an 18" prop.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Jay,

The sheet will be in the mail today.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

If available I'll buy a set of masks in 1/3d scale. Wouldn't it be possible to do easily if they're made up using a computer program for sizing and cutting? Mitch

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

I would love a set also, do you have stan's phone #





charlie AMA 8916
WACO brotherhood #67

JoeAverage

Brad knows me. I have sent him this post and committed to buying a cowl if he agrees to make them. Thats a great job you did. A lot of work for a simple thank you. They may add up though.

WacoJoe

Gee, I don't know Bill. Maybe his landings are better than mine!! [X(]

Joe
WB #54

Stickbuilder

How many times have you drug your chin this year?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Live Wire

OOKK

damifino

The masks I first thought about are to mask off an entire cowl blister, one at a time, for the two-tone scheme seen on a lot of WACO's. That mask set will have to be made to fit a particular cowl (such as the one Aerofibertech) is making because it must fit the transition from blisters to cowling precisely. Now, the 'hammerhead' looking design on every blister as seen on the PICA box art is the next thing to think about. That is what I'm going to look into as soon as I recieve Stickbuilder's PICA decal sheet. Best case on this deal will be a complete set of paint masks based on the PICA 1/5 scale decal set, including WACO logos, 2 different blister masks and everthing else that is on the PICA WACO sheet. Hope to have some info on pricing the mask set in a couple of weeks.

A scaled-up set should be no problem except for the complete blister masks, because they have to fit the blister transitions precisely.