Springer Build
01-24-2010, 07:33 PM
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Springer Build
I thought I might post progress on my Springer. It is per specs at 16" x 8" at about 8 pounds with Astro 10 motor, 6 volt sla, and 1.5 prop. It took a lot of ballast to get down to the water line. It is close to paint time.
02-03-2010, 07:42 AM
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RE: Springer Build
Thanks scheograth.
And yes it is a typo ....actually 18x8...just late night typing with fat fingers. Fat fingers makes it hard to do the detail work too !!!! I am in the process now of filling sanding painting. I am also awaiting delivery of a Microglass work boat hull. it should be about the same build but without all the ballast due to a shallower draft.
And yes it is a typo ....actually 18x8...just late night typing with fat fingers. Fat fingers makes it hard to do the detail work too !!!! I am in the process now of filling sanding painting. I am also awaiting delivery of a Microglass work boat hull. it should be about the same build but without all the ballast due to a shallower draft.
02-09-2010, 02:23 AM
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RE: Springer Build
ORIGINAL: rctugger
I am also awaiting delivery of a Microglass work boat hull. it should be about the same build but without all the ballast due to a shallower draft.
I am also awaiting delivery of a Microglass work boat hull. it should be about the same build but without all the ballast due to a shallower draft.
http://www.microglass.net/products/p1055.html
.. then its a Springer hull and should be the same draft... and need the same amount of ballast.
02-09-2010, 07:44 AM
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RE: Springer Build
Hey Toes...no...what I actually got was the "construction workboat" that is 16 X6 with a 2 3/4 inch depth. I am using a 545 mtr from Vac-U-Tug, a 1/1/2 3 blade brass prop, 50amp waterproof esc, and two 7.2 3800 mha batts in parralell for ballast. It appears on initial hot tub test the water line will be close to being right. If not since I am also a hunter, I use the flat strip pieces of lead that are really duck decoy weights for ballast. This is going tobe my RESCUE boat....that is along with a couple of others. You know how this hobby is...habit forming!! Progress pix attached....Dave
11-04-2011, 06:45 AM
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RE: Springer Build
Hi
I am a new member and If this is not the right place my apologies. I am building a Springer tug for use as a rescue boat. I will be using the older style 2 channel radio. My question is I have seen posts on putting capacitors on the motor But I can't find out the sizes I have a Robbe 600/24 8.4 v
motor Can someone help and if I am in the wrong place tell me nicely where I should be asking the question.
Thanks
I am a new member and If this is not the right place my apologies. I am building a Springer tug for use as a rescue boat. I will be using the older style 2 channel radio. My question is I have seen posts on putting capacitors on the motor But I can't find out the sizes I have a Robbe 600/24 8.4 v
motor Can someone help and if I am in the wrong place tell me nicely where I should be asking the question.
Thanks
11-04-2011, 07:30 AM
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RE: Springer Build
Basically any value from 0.1 uf to .01 uf will work. Ceramic disc capacitors have good high frequency characteristics and they're inexpensive. Get ones that are rated at 50 volts or higher.
You can also check some the hobby stores, where you can but a set of motor caps. Or go to radio shack.
You wire them like this:
You can also check some the hobby stores, where you can but a set of motor caps. Or go to radio shack.
You wire them like this:
11-04-2011, 07:35 AM
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RE: Springer Build
In case the above pix isn't clear...the top 2 caps go to the motor case....one from pos terminal to mtr case and one from neg terminal to motor case. The 3rd lower cap goes BETWEEN the pos and neg terminals......dave
11-04-2011, 07:37 AM
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RE: Springer Build
Also the caps are more neccessary if you are using a 27Mhz radio. If you use the 75Mhz radio then they are not as important, and if using2.4 Ghz you may not need them at all.....but they are cheap insurance.
07-05-2015, 01:11 PM
#14
The caps are like a filter. They absorb and release static charges to smooth out the power fed to the motor. Without them, it's possible to "fry" the ESC or the motor just from a random votage spike
