elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

Small engine repair place the guy will find one that most likely will do the trick.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Thank you,
I did find one yesterday at a local place. Not exactly the same but close enough.
Having said that it doesn't appear that the original bulb has a hole in it?
The area around the bulb seems to just collect fuel and it runs out when it's squished.
Maybe Normal?

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

Galen,
No spark plug gap info in the package. Is there something in the manual?
Scott

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

For a plug gap .020-.025 should be ok.

Tommy_Gun

After having flown this engine in my fw190 at Wings over Delaware yesterday, the only thing I want from the engine is a louder exhaust note. While airborne with other planes that were running 2 strokes, the sound of my fg60r3 was drowned out to the point that I couldn't hear how it was running.
I'm thinking about cutting length off my exhaust pipes and feeding them into an augmentor tube to get the exhaust out the cowl.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

What exhaust setup are you running?

Tommy_Gun

Totally stock

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

5 Flights on my engine so far. RE mod redline oil 15:1 The flying test bed is a Road Runner by Fun Fly Models a 90" ARF Ugly stick looking plane. It says 30cc engines so this is a bit over the recommend engine displacement. I am reluctant to fly at full power in level flight so My flight plan is a full power blast at 60+ degrees nose up to "400" feet then spin down and try it again. I use a two line fuel system if you don't have the carb closed all the way fuel will drip out of the carb during fueling.
16oz tank is more than enough for 8 minutes running rich and i land with 1/3 tank.
On the test stand I used a electric starter, in the plane I have hand flipped the prop. The last 2 flights was a one flip start!

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Two more flights on mine,FW190/FG60-3.Flies great landing is gentle,really slows down.Not real fast on top speed ,but ok. Turning about 61-6200 on the ground. What RPMs are yall getting?

Tommy_Gun

I have about 15 flights on my 190 with this engine.
Once I got home from Warbirds over Delaware I decided to give the engine a once over.
On checking the valve clearances, I found that both valves on #1 were at .011", and the other two were both running at .006".
All 3 plugs were cleaned, though there wasn't much there to worry about. Gaps were all running at .024".
I reset all valves to have minimal clearances by feel, and then measured them. They were all at .0015".
Used a syringe to squirt some lube down all pushead tubes and onto the valve mechanism.
All ready for Sunday.

Fly2XS

My Feedback: (65)

I bought my Saito FG60-R3 radials for the noise they make. Such as in this video:

I've flown in warbird gaggles and I don't listen as much as I watch how my aircraft performs to know if my engine is ok, or having trouble.
I love the sound of my Saito!

I've been running a XOAR 22x10 warbird prop at about 6500 rpm (max) with most of my flying at 1/2 throttle. I get nearly an hour flying on a 16 ounce tank!

Tommy_Gun

I have about 15 flights on my 190 with this engine.
Once I got home from Warbirds over Delaware I decided to give the engine a once over.
On checking the valve clearances, I found that both valves on #1 were at .011", and the other two were both running at .006".
All 3 plugs were cleaned, though there wasn't much there to worry about. Gaps were all running at .024".
I reset all valves to have minimal clearances by feel, and then measured them. They were all at .0015".
Used a syringe to squirt some lube down all pushead tubes and onto the valve mechanism.
All ready for Sunday.

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

Scott,
the video looks great quite the sound. Great airframe/engine combination!
I have a TF Power Point 22x10. Spinning rich at 6100 rpm on the ground. The idle is quite low I'm not sure what it is 2k would be a guess. Quite a lot of prop breaking at dead idle so glide slope is steeper than if the engine is running faster or dead stick which hasn't happened and I'm pretty confident that won't happen.
Sparky

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Tommy,
Your plane flew great at WOD. .
FYI, it's going to be HOT this weekend!

Tommy_Gun

Hi BobH,
It was good to see you, Sal, Rob and the rest of the crew there at WoD '17.
Thanks for giving me the heads up about this great event.
Also, thanks to you and Sal for being spotters for me when I did fly.
Yes the old 190 did fly well, I just really like to hear my engine to be able to monitor its state of tune.
If I'm out this Sunday, it'll be a morning thing only. No sense in being out in the heat.

flygrc

I have followed this thread for a while and my conclusion are this are a combination problem

I have done measurement also on ignition point and could see it is plus minus over 1 mm.
As written earlier in text this are due to rod design.
And together with to tight baffle and maybe a thight Keleo ring I believe it becum too much for cylinder #2 and it broker due to overheat and stress.

There are servel way to solve this by my opinion...
1. NEW rod with right design.
2. NEW collar with magnet that are place to compensate for the geometrical fault.
3. Redesign ignition system to compensate.
4. Bigger crank house... this are due to placement of few cylinder...

I was written and asking
https://www.ch-ignitions.com/product-category/engine-conversions/evolution-engines/
If they compensate on there system and also sended pic from this thread.

I got this answer, I didn't blame them, just ask if they have a solution.

"You can post this on the forum if you wish.

That does not have nothing to do with CDI.
The Saito CDi is made by RCxel and I am part of the design and test on the RCxel CDi .
I have been to Rcxel facility several times and worked with R&D team down there .
This CDI is the same for all 3 CYL engines that Saito manufacture.


Here is how it works.
The engine is timed 30BTDC when Magnet enter the sensor.
The parop drive has 4 magnets.
3 south magnets displaced at 120 degrees and 1 North is between CYL #3 and #1 .

Now you will get 3 sparks on all 3 under 180 RPM since the CDI do not know the position.
Once the North magnet passe the sensor it know position and then after engine passes 180RPM it start the fire sequence 1-3-2 .
The CDi checks the RPM and puts the right curve .

I looked on 10 pages and I did not see anything specific to CDI.

The Broke Cylinder on # 2 ....does have nothing to do with CDi.
CDI ...even if fire let's say is firing way advance....will not have the Power to break the aluminum like that.

FG84, FG33, FG19....do they break cylinders like that; I did not hear .

Sorry to say but CDI do not do that. In my testings I went 55-60 BTDC advance and nothing happens.

Could be material issue , getting hot and grip and get a lot of force and push the gripped piston on to the cylinder and break at the base.


But it is not CDi related. That is a mechanical effect. Like I said I tried so many ignitions settings and I NEVER had a cylinder to break because it fired to soon/late etc.

Thanks
Adrian"

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

I'm currently at 6800 on the ground w/Fiala 22x10 gas prop. RE mod engine w/Saito titanium exhaust ring, 15:1 Redline synthetic, 7.4v Powerbox Sparkswitch (2S Li-ION), Saito plugs. Not certain what unloaded RPM is - no telemetry.

cathurga

I was running a Turnigy 'Wide' 22x10 and getting around 6250 on the ground, and 7000 in level flight at full throttle. It was causing the temps to get very high (recorded 1 cyl at 190C). I changed to a 6star 22x10 3D prop and static revs were 6550 and unloading to around 7300 in the air. Goes quicker and the max temp i recorded on 1 cyl was 170C).
Bear in mind it is VERY hot here in Dubai and those temps were recorded at around 40C ambient. These engines do not like high ambient temps. I will spend more time on it in the winter.
Also, for reference, the engine is in a PilotRC 88" Yak-55 and in my opinion it is too big for this engine. I would say it has the equivalent power of a 45cc 2-stroke engine. Its not going to stay in this frame for a lot longer. Now that it is tuned up and running as it should, it will find its home in a VQ 30cc bearcat most likely.
I am using the Saito collector ring and this is a LOT better than the Keleo from a fitting perspective, but it doesn't sound quite as good as the Keleo as the pipe is slightly smaller. I don't want rocks chucked at me anymore, but I agree with what Adrian has said above where the stresses of the Keleo are my suspicions are with regards to the broken cylinders.(I am not starting a war here, this is my opinion, right or wrong)

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks,all is good information, that is what we are doing here, sharing info. I too think heat is a problem,that is why i'm still flying my TF FW190 without a cowl.I want to get several flights before adding the cowl. It's hot here too,but not as hot as Dubai.

cathurga

SWORDS, I was running mine with the cowl on, but no baffle. Its almost the same as running no cowl because if you've seen the Pilot RC Yak's, all the scale cooling louvres are open, and there is a channel in the fuse that opens to a vent underneath, so there is a LOT of air movement through the cowl. I will baffle it, but I don't want to spend too much time working on this plane when I KNOW that the FG-60 is not powerful enough to fly this plane at anything but 'just over' scale performance....and that's not what the plane was designed for. I suppose I just like flying it because the 3D planes are great test-beds as a result of their stability and ease to fly.

deadstick79

hi all,
how much right thrust should this engine have? my firewall has none built in. what would the dimensions be for a 4 blde prop?
many thanks,
dan

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

I haven't flown or measured the thrust, but a simple ground test using the Biela semi-scale 4 carbon blade 19x8x4 yielded 6300RPM (about 500 less than 22x10). Here's a link to video of someone who gave it a try - Cheers

deadstick79

many thanks!
do you still have the nieuport?
what engine?
I have the Dr-1 with the dle 30 and two flights so far!
what a handfull
dan

mimmomx

I rebuilt the propeller drag with the correct times, then I tested the engine with thermovision, the result was great.
Look at the three points on the heads.

the pope

Cool ( pardon the pun ) thermovision there . Done with radioshack off the counter stuff Im guessing ? Cheers