RVM

You didn't get it USPS? That would have been something like $4.

Either way, I hate paying shipping for little items, and since I have no LHS near me, I have no choice.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I run a 13x6 on my Kyosho Super Stearman 40. Great combination for that anyway.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I feel your pain, but sometimes in this hobby, the shipping is more than the item, but alot less than the gas to go get it, or in this case, plane fare and taxi's. lol

RVM

Hah! Yes this is truly the case sometimes!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The secret is to make it worthwhile by ordering a few Saito SS glow plugs, a cast muffler for an old one that does not have a cast muffler, or a velocity stack or two.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I like the old brass mufflers myself.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Saito straight pipes are a thin brass. If you take a dirt nap, it mashes the pipe flat against the engine. But . . . . The muffler threads in the head are not broken out. All you lost was the muffler tube.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I busted the threaded boss that holds the carb on my old favorite High compression Saito 1.50 yesterday. It split around the outside about where the threads end on the inside. What a bummer, a new head is $107.00 and probably not high compression any more. Ham fisted FarmBoy Syndrome? Yep.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Maybe Clarence Lee can repair it. Worth a call to see?

donkey doctor

Hello; Not a very good picture, but (I hope) you get the idea. I think I used a bit of the stainless steel cutter that comes with a roll of waxed paper. By the way, this repair is about eight years old, and still functioning perfectly.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here is a picture or two of the damage I did. There is nothing there to accept any fix. New cylinder on the way. As Jimmy Buffet said "It's my own damn fault". So, if anybody needs some aircooled threads, I have a few.

donkey doctor

Hello Hobbsy; Oh, now I understand! That looks like a defective head to me, maybe Horizpn might want to replace that one under warrantee. I know how many Saito engines you have and if you were my customer, i would definately want to see you happy.

I had a freind that somehow crashed his stearman on the only rock on the entire field, shearing off both rocker pedestals. He got a new engine free. You can bet he likes Saito now!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Doc, my daughter got that one for me for Christmas in 1990 so it doesn't owe me anything. It was my third RC engine with the first being a ST G21-.46, closely followed by an Enya .46 MKII fourstroke. That's when I got hooked on fourstrokes, and soon after I got hooked on Diesels when I converted my SuperTigre .51.

RVM

Dave - you could probably try machining down the crankcase where it meets the jug in order to increase the compression a bit.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Ouch!

TCrafty

Wondering if anyone has the same problem as I'm having with my .72

I put bearings in it about a year ago and it flies great, has good power and the bearings are still good. The only problem I have is that it seems to blow out A LOT of raw fuel out the front bearing. I mean, take a shower when you're done kinda blow-by. I just put it in a J-3 cub that I just got and I'd like to keep it from hosing down the airframe. It's a tad rich on the low end but not that bad. I checked to see if it was coming out the breather tube but it wasn't, it was definitely coming from right behind the thrust washer behind the prop. Can you install a bearing backwards, was it my fault upon rebuild? I cooled the bearings in the freezer and warmed the block when I installed them so there wasn't any forcing them in place. I'd even thought of using some sort of sealant around the perimeter of the bearing to help prevent this. I hear that there are bearings available that have seals to prevent this, I might try one of them next. Welcoming all who care to chime in.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Your suspicions are confirmed. The Saito spec is for a 2RS type bearing in the front. You obviously have a "Z" or a shield on your front bearing. All this oil doesn't hurt anything but your feelings. Actually the bearing will last longer this way. I have some Saito's that run this way. But the ones with the two rubber seals on the front bearing are dry up front.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

TCrafty- you are member #521.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Test

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I did the same thing to my 72, no RS bearing in front (just metal shield), and I have an oil slinger too. Funny thing is, I put the same non RS bearing in my 65, and it don't blow a drop ! What da heck !

bldrums

My .82 is cutting off when I give full throttle. Problem is that this only happens on take off or in the air. I can recover a near flame out on take off sometimes and I can acctually make the engine die if i want. it seems to be ok as long as the transition to wot is not too abrupt. I have set the needle with my tach, 300 or more rpms rich ,changed the location of the tank ( center to be at level to carb) ( added foam rubber to cushion tank). I can hold the airplane vertical ,wot ,and its fine. My next approach my be to replace the tank and fuel lines. Incidentially, I had the engine on an identical model (with this tank ) and as well and in another type plane (different tank) and this did not occure which leads me to believe something had gone wrong with the engine. i may have missed some diagnostic proceedures. Please throw in any advise.
\
( this engine is a nitro hog too. but so what! ) it has been great until now. An will be great again soon!!!

thx all
bl member #....i forgot

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Open up the idle mixture screw about 1/8 turn

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I would fatten up the low end 1/8 turn at a time until it quits doing that.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Ha ! only 5 seconds between our responses W8YE. lol

bldrums

damn you guys are good