Tarasdad

The castor/no castor debate has been going on about as long as the one about what nitro percentage to use. I've always used 10% nitro, 18% full synthetic (or no more than 5% castor blend) with fantastic results. That's what the instructions that came with my FA-80 in 1990 or 1991 said, that's what I've done. Wish I still had those instructions not just for that but because they were a fine example of Engrish translation! After disassembling two FA-91's that were run with high castor content fuel I'm a firm believer in those old numbers. Both had valves that were caked with gummy, flaky castor deposits on the seating surfaces and the shafts. On the one I've been able to test (other is awaiting new bearings) the compression went way up after the valves were cleaned. I had to do the same on my FA-80, but only because 15 years of storage caused even Marvel Mystery Oil to get a bit thick!

One thing I will say for absolutely certain, not using the proper clearing practice and after-run oil for an engine that's not going to be used for a while will kill the bearings in a hurry. The FA-91 I have waiting for new ones is proof enough of that. Looked like their previous owner believed in the "run 'em hard, put 'em away wet" style of maintenance.

FNQFLYER

Old Fart last to first, the keyboard gets angry and doesn't play for a while. On the H1 we were looking at radial engines. May be one of the Indian specials, or if one can be found for a reasonable price a Saito or just a 36 to 40 size petrol (Saito of course) On the Midget Mustang does the box say it can take a 120 (anything)? if so then yes, me I wouldn't bother it would be like putting a 100E Anglia up against a XY GTHO. Strega is the better racer (full size) especially when fitted with a Griffin, Steve Hinton snr flew both and gave thumbs up to Strega. There are better a/c for our type racing like Miss Bardol, Miss Mennen, and Rare Bear and Dreadnought to name a few but Strega looked appealing.

FNQFLYER

Old Fart there is nothing you can say to make me sad / mad etc today. When I was racing what is now Vintage control line as a young teenager (50 years ago) I met up with a guy called Gordon Burford. He was always helping and encouraging guys like me and always pushed "Australian Made" especially his Taipan engines. Long story short he gave me a matched pair consecutive s/numbered 2.5 diesels that until now along with a pair of ED 2.46 Racers I had thought were long lost. While sorting through my mothers stuff today I found them, pristine and with a bit of ether to dissolve that bloody castor they flipped over just as I remembered them. And I found photos of my comp winning c/line scale Caralina and DC3. Unreal and to top it off we got a contract on my mothers house some $40K above what we expected. I won't mention the old first edition aeromodeller magazine books and the years collection of the same mag. It has been good

FNQFLYER

Old Fart, the only consideration with the H1 a/frame is whether to use the race wing or the transport wing. Remember these are to be stand off scale models.

Tarasdad

Isn't it amazing when you discover something you had thought long gone?

FNQFLYER

On oils, DO not use castor in either a 53 or 63 (don't know about the others) unless you are competing against me then do so by all means. The pressure regulator /pump diaphragm doesn't like castor at all
The only time I have seen castor gum up valves etc is when the engine has been left standing for long periods without proper preservation.

Rudolph Hart

Not trying to upset or make anyone mad mate,thats one of the problems with email.I swear if we were face to face saying the same things you would be smiling or thoughtful,both nice states of mind to be in,especially when you are flying.Gordon Burford is a legend here in australia.

I heard a rumour that they would runner a smaller class as well as the 120's.Mine is a 60 size midget mustang and i've shoehorned a fa115 into it,funny thing was i never needed any lead.In a shallow full throttle dive over the airstrip just as you flare the prop tips go supersonic and it makes a satisfactory boom sound,the guys love it.

FNQFLYER

The rules have been published for the next Gratton Do and unfortunately we do not have "a 120 class" this year coming. However there is interest from a number of flyers in the club and around for the 120 class event so we (as a club) will be launching it next year after the Gratton Do. The idea is to follow the scale aero racing as done by the Phoenix and Sacremento clubs, simple rukes and hopefully good fun. Have a look at their sites and you'll get the gist of what we are looking to achieve. I believe (from rumours to hand) that Steve Green is looking at the 120 class. The idea is to use up those ARF warbirds etc that are literally laying around un employed. That being said I have not doubt that the 014 Gratton Do will be as equally good as the inaugral one was this year and hopefully lots better. Check out the CRAMS website.
On the discover front, my ex was getting some plants and stuff from my mothers house yesterday and made the comment and I quote "what are you going to do with the model stuff in the old storage area". I had forgotten that I had left stuff there years ago (just after the divorce) so before I go to the field today I am going over to the house to check out what is actually there, fingers crossed.

the pope

Sure the Ex didn't mean what are you going to do with the modelling gear after I have set fire to it and run over it with the car ? Cheers from the pope

FNQFLYER

Pope actually no the ex and I get on reasonably well and since I have handed over the family records and photos (my side of course) which go back to the 1880's her little "family history heart" shows enormous amounts of "affection love" for yours truly. But I digress and seening as how this escaped in "settlement value" then I am very happy. Consider these finds from yesterday 2 x Open Rocker Saito's (capacity unknown but probably 40's) another couple of racing diesels (I assume so because of the propellors fitted) about 5 first editiion aeromodeller press books (from the 50's) and the best bit if you can call them that, 1 x P40 Warhawk (Topflite yes Warhawk), 1 x Premier Tiger Moth, and 1 x Byron composite Beechcraft Baron, all these kits, yes kits, are virtually N.I.B and from what I can see and remember come with all repeat all the necessary accessories (except engines) to complete full scale versions of each type. I have found a set of draws with engine boxes dating back to 1955, don't know what is in them yet (my dads markings show when they were "acquired") and box of scale and otherwise cowls and numerous O/Timer fuselages (framed up start of models). Another set of draws is full of what appears to be scale data and 3 view drawings. The access is restricted to the storage area so I couldn't get at all of it because of the shoulder and dare I say it back. I am heading back there today with one of my sons and my daughter (she is getting into the silky oak furniture stash). But the good w/end is still continuing. When you consider that I had forgotten about most of this and I had considered those kits listed lost in the void what can one say but be thankful for what one is receiving. Now the next big question is once I get it all sorted what to do with it all?.

FNQFLYER

To old Fart. At Ansett the announcement used to be (to engineering) "Ammendment to the Schedules". At the field yesterday (after my show and tell with the kits, see above,) there was a discussion about the finalisation of catagories. It was decided that instead of "F1" and Red Bull catagories there would be a "composite catagory" for 120 /30cc engined a/c. 120 glo or 30cc petrol (gas) civilian and military types that have actually raced. That's it, check out the CRAMS site for the final version at the end of next week all the data should be finalised.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Don't believe any of it. I have a couple of those ex's and there's no such thing as a friendly ex. I'd rather kiss rattlesnakes than deal with mine. They are to be treated as hostile threats to a mans well being, imo. FNQFlyer- be afraid, very afraid when they pretend to be friendly.

FNQFLYER

blw, she is treated with caution but I have had trouble with females all my life. My ex, my mother, and my sisters all used to gang up on me which made fly away tours to places like PNG real attractive but consider my current conundrum, my ex, my sister (the one that remains) and my current wife all periodically get together and I do not currently have the option of taking up any "contracts" however the flying field is still a good get away..

SrTelemaster150

My last divorce cost me a total of $175 & I am still friends W/my ex although it took a few years for the relationship to mellow. For the record, it was my doing that ended the marriage. we were young then. We didn't have a lot of material things to divide up & we were smart enough to keep the lawyers @ bay. We used 1 lawyer to draw up the paperwork, we signed it & that was that. The ex paid $225 & my share was $175.

Rudolph Hart

Jeez we could fill a whole page up with howdy doodies plus backslapping commiserations to boot.I'm lost between a fictional world of stainless steel screw replacements,hip operations and hockey pucks.Barry did you ever tach your 182 that you allude to owning..and for Christs sake if you did,could you please go into a bit of detail my friend

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I'm getting over a weekend of recovering from getting a new pacemaker on Friday. The drugs seem to be out of my body by now but I'm still moving around a little bit slower than usual.

I'm not sure around having a 182. I have a 170R3 still in the box.

Dan, that's the best way to do something like that. Glad it worked out that way.

FNQFLYER

My ex ended up using my lawyer to sue hers for stuffing up her side of the divorce. I was in Vietnam at the time (2nd go round in 1998 setting up Vietnam A/lines for Boeing) and she asked me if I knew a good lawyer so I told her to use mine. On Saitos been reading the gas "blog" thingy and I am a bit worried, I have an FG 20 NIB that I want to put in a Storch and either the people *****ing about the FG20 are ham fisted or the engine is a dog. All the ones I have seen have worked like swiss clocks (though a bit messier). I don't want deep and meaningfuls but any short comments would be welcome.

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

I have a stuck valve on a 72 and have heated, oiled, WD40ed, wiggled and cannot get it unstuck. Any ideas? I assume it is the exhaust value stuck open as it is on that side. I'm stumped. Thanks for any help.

Jim

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

You probably need to remove the valve keeper and spring which will allow the valve to fall into your hand. Then you can clean the valve stem with a screwdriver blade of the carbon hardened on it and (using a flattened wooden dowel) scrape the gunk out of the area right above the valve seat.

That was the problem and corrective action I had to take at an event 300 miles from home that made me swear off castor and 4 strokes.

As you may have noted, not everyone thinks that is a problem. Actually if you are tuned properly, it probably is not as serious but getting well tuned can be - difficult to impossible especially without a tach.

YMMV

Tarasdad

A tach is an absolute must for getting your needles set right. As the big nosed man used to say, "don't leave home without it!"

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

So you are saying to remove the cylinder to do that? I would have thought there were some easier ways without having to do that and I'm sure that is not as difficult or hard to mess up as one might think. Just never done it before. I have an old 65 that needs bearings and have hesitated to do that. Worried about the cam and such but as long as I take notes and pictures I should be fine on that too. I read Robinson's comments on removing the exhaust to get to it and put penatrating oil on it from the insde and that might work too. I may try that first before putting on my mechanic hat. Thanks for the help.

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, another cruder fix is to push the valve down with your finger and then let it fly closed with a snap. Many times times that's all it takes.

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks Hobbsy, I thought WD40 wasn't good for engines and I just sprayed on top while I was trying to work the valve. I then dried it all off when I tried heat. I've used PB Blaster for some really stuck bolts so I'll try that and I have tried pushing it down some. Will try all tonight. And I want to add some caster to my fuel but don't know where to buy it. Is there any local stores that sell it? Or where can I order? Thanks Hobbsy!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://www.sigmfg.com/IndexText/SIGCO001.html

That link should work, you can also find this Benol at Power Sports Shops.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

That IS what I did at the fly in, but according to Hobbsy it is not necessary if you have a night to let the engine stand in PB Blaster. And no, I am not familiar with that stuff.

Good luck.