ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Bull51,

Thanks fior that, with the figuresin hand. I went downstairs and weight my wing which is ready to fly except for a clear coat which i don't expect to add too much with.

Well, she came out a little porky compared to yours......

1910 grams

67 oz

9oz difference

All in all not all that bad, considering i have 6 servos in the wing, which include the retract valve and servo, and the extra servo to do the inner doors. Cant remember what retracts you were using?? and are you also using struts?

Anyone else got some weights for their wings??

Thanks

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Chalre,

Thanks for that pic! I haddent seen it before. so now it's in my collection.

Well done finishing your model so well, and good luck on the maiden flight.

I'm now back at work, so my modelling has slowed down a fair bit. the wing is as detailed and weathered as i'm going to do for this model and just awaits a clear coat. will post pics soon.

For the fuse, I'm now waiting on the Tony Howard's (of Pacific Scaled Aero) 1/7 scale exhaust resin kit which i just paid for.

Also I'm getting Pro Mark to make a set of 1/7 scale dry trasfer nomeclature (no step, oil service here, etc) for the 'Stang, and i believe these might be available for sale if you guys are interested.

will post more info as the items arrive.

Thanks

bull51

ticketec,

No problem. I'm using robart 551 rs with 7/16 struts.

Oosiksmith

My Feedback: (1)

Have you guys been following the giant scale builds? Look on page 5 at the following link for more close ups of this plane:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_51...tm.htm#5737859

gwong

My Feedback: (1)

Gents,

I wanted to make a circular wheel well for my Robart's 4" wheels...I discovered that a 2 litre pop bottle has a diameter of exactly 4.25 inches. So I took some balsa sheeting and glued them around the pop bottle and I have an perfect circular wheel well.

Cheers,

Gord.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, Gord

I'm definitely gonna use that tip.

Flying Beagle

some good news

I was able to "sand" my Dave Brown 4 inch wheels. I just laid a piece of 150 grit sanding paper on a table, grabbed the tire like a hockey puck and started scratching it back and forth and round and round. I sanded the tire on each side up to the outer most tread line, which ended up taking an 1/8 inch of each side. So now my wheel width is 1 inch. I also had to shorten the hub axle to make it thinner.

I kept "dremeling" my way deeper and deeper into the ribs and finally got everything in far enough to leave room for full gear doors. I have some major re-designing to add additional stringers and extra ribs, but I think its going to turnout ok

As I was fitting the gear, I kept wondering if 85 or 90 degree retracts were going to work. The 5 degree difference really only amounts to about 5/16 of an inch difference on each end. But in the end, I was able to keep my 85 degree 531RS retracts.

I will post pics later after I have completed one side

Beagle

saramos

Hi Beagle,

Could you explain how you made the hub thinner? One of the biggest problems I've seen with all the wheels on the market, is that they are all too wide. If the Dave Brown hubs can be modified, without sacrificing the strenght, it would be great since they are also the lightest wheels I've come across.

Scott

Flying Beagle

the Dave Brown wheels have a plastic two piece hub with a male and female "axle" that snaps together.

I just grabbed a screwdriver and popped the hub apart
I have to be honest here, when the hubs did come loose suddenly, I smacked myself in the lip with the screwdriver [X(]

then I just sanded an equal amount from each hub piece and snapped it back together onto the wheel that I had previously made "thinner"

I might later narrow the hub a bit more, maybe just for looks but also for a bit more "thinness", as the stock condition of the hub is flush with the wheel

Beagle

sticktickler

I do ticketec,
Here you go my wing looks a smidge less than 3.5 lbs. ready for flight (no gear doors at all however wing is fully glassed and covered). My planes all up weight is a smidge less than 12.5 lbs. As you may recall I have a good strong Saito 120 on the business end so those few extra pounds (from the factory specs of 10) should not make much difference (fuse and tail not glassed just covered to save weight). Have not flown her yet but soon will. Looks like the winds, weather and work schedule are looking better this year for me to give it a try.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Sticktickler,

Thanks for those weights. i though "Doh!, should have called her Porky instead of Shangrila!!"

I remember the your Mustang, but under a different name.....

Well, haven't been around as much of late because i started back at work. Work wastes such a large amount of modelling time its not funny!

I have managed to finish the weathering of the wing, and the gun installation. So all that is left is a little bit of work in the wheel well, but otherwise, ready for clear coat. I have also installed and rigged the servo to actuate the tail wheel retract and have installed the engine back into the airframe. The airframe has not been weathered because i still need to do the red/white checkers under the exhausts, which themselve's should arrive some time this week, and the red band around the front of the aircraft.

Tony Howard who advertises the exhausts here on RCU was a pleasure to deal with and really fast. set me back $32 USD including shipping all the way to Oz!

I have also ordered the R/X for the model and i when with one of the new JR 10ch PCM Synth R/X. Not much left to buy for her now except for whatever i decide to do with the O.S. exhaust.

Thanks

sticktickler

Most would think it a shame to build and sand such a nice clean, smooth airframe just to dirty it all up but we all understand. You’re doing a great job and it sure gives your model a cretin big plane feel about it. I love the smears it sure adds to the allusion of speed even standing still nice work. Most of us tend to build models of (show war birds clean shinny and new) but yours is a true war bird model a difficult task to make something new look old naturally but you pulled it off nicely. Remember not to put to glossy of a finish on her with the clear as they never had much of a shine. If it does shine to much you could rub it down with some baby oil and fine pumice with a clean cotton cloth. This will dull the finish without scratching it and works great. I use this technique on the final coat of my woodworking projects that I don’t want much shine on and looks better than a satin or flat clear product.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Sticktickler,

Thanks for that. Yes, weathering is a little harder but you are 100% correct when you say that this is how they were. I work in full sized aviation and aircraft get dirty pretty quick, and thats with glossy paintwork. Matt paintwork just seems to absorbe dirt and deteriorate very quickly. That's why i'm such a believer in weathering a model. Modern warbird are highly maintainted aircraft, and are normally painted with a satin or gloss finish to ease the maintaining of them and that's why they are so shiny, but i want an accurate redition of what the boy's flew in the war and not a "maintenance friendly" finish. Thanks for the tips on the clear coat, and rest assured she was never going to receive a gloss clear coat.

I have been building plastic models since i was knee high to a grass hopper and these have taught me the importance and difference weathering can make in turning a model, into a "real" looking aircraft. pic's below.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Tom Pierce is a master of weathering and maintains a "blog" of his builds too. he has the same background as i do in scale plastic modelling and he explains the tehniques required to achive that finish very well. Winning all the awards that his SBD did is testament to the effectivement of the techniques.


http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/html/paint.htm

http://www.tompierce.net/190/html/paint/weather.htm


Some more pics of my latest plastic models again....

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Ah, classic example of what i'm talking about. This was my S&B models Fw-190 32" span electric model. Check out the difference the plance lines and weathering makes to the model apart from the other decals that were applied. but at the end of the day, it all adds to the final product.

Thanks

IL2windhawk

ticketec,
Your aircaft is really taking a beautiful form.

Well done, sir. I bet you are nervous to fly it. i would be.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Ii2windhawk,

Thanks mate! I am starting to think that i will need to bring a spare set of jocks for the maiden

Been working on the Tony Howard exhaust that came in the other day but the wife has been taking the camera to work this week so it's been pretty hard to get pic's to post. They are almost finished and although it seem like a bit of work when you start on them, they come together pretty quick.

Finding i'm dragging my heels a little even though i'm really keen to finish her cos i kinda started on the next project some time ago. have been busy with work and the busines on the side too.

Thanks

WarbirdAirRacer

My Feedback: (16)

Well tonight i finally got one of my old Mustangs striped and found that it has been glassed and then it was covered in monocoate. Well after getting it 95% striped I have found a lot of things wrong with it and the wing will need a lot of TLC and new sheeting as well. Partly because after getting it down from the wing was I dropped it then stepped on it. But in almost glad I did because I found a lot wrong with it, like other broken ribs broken gear mounts etc. So this will be a great time to dig into it a little more and replace whats wrong and clean it up....Since I'm also somewhat tired of seeing nothing but warbirds at the field and all over the net I am going down my own road once again and converting it a Modded Reno Racer. Along with fixing some of what I did when I stepped on it I also cut the wing tips off down to the number 11 Rib. I will then cap the tips with 1\4 inch balsa wood and sand to shape after the wing is fixed and re sheeted.


List of things being changed....

1) YS 1.20 to YS 1.60 4 stroke

2) clipped wings

3) modded racer canopy

4) modded Racer Elev. tips

5) Add 1" (inch) to the rudder (for better knife edge.)

6) Fix and re glass wing

7) Add 1 (one) servo per aileron (trash the 1 servo bell crank system)

8) replace all 2-56 push rods to 4-40s with ball links.

9) Replace stock tail wheel with re tractable tail wheel system

10) Add switch and air filler door to the fuse for cleaner lines and looks.


This is a good start and there will be more added later.......I will also post pics of what I have done so far.



Thanks.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey John,

Sounds cool and fast already

1.60?? man she should boggie with that spinning the fan up front!!!!

thanks

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Been progressing with the exhausts. they seem like a lot of work when you get the kit but they come together pretty quick. and looking at the finished item's all i can say is throw away the ABS junk exhausts that comes with the kit!!!!!

They look absolutly magic in my book and are a beautiful represenation of the full sized's exhausts.

I will explain how i did them but fast track effectivily where the supplied insructions show you how to prepare them. fistly i wrapped the front of the 'stangs nose in glad wrap (suran wrap to the americans i believe). and marked out with a marker where they should sit. My cowl must be different to the one used in the intructions as my thrust line wasn't inthe same place, but any how, marked out the correct location.

I then mixed epoxy and microballons and placed it on the bottom of the resin exhaust shrouds as per instructions, and then pushed them down into their correct locations and let them set.

They were then sanded down once dry and primed with a high fill primer as used on the rest of the aircraft. Once that was sanded smooth, i then sprayed the shrouds with Model master Magnesium buffable metaliser paint. I should have used stainless steel but i didn't have any at home. This came out a little darker than i wanted it so i randomly sprayed some buffable aluminium model master paint over the top and this lighten up the color sufficiently. One work of caution with these buffable paints and i was a little caught out[], but should have known better is that the surface has to be absoluty perfect. not defects, scraches, dints, nothing. the paint show up every little defect. seeing as my model is a "used" aircraft, not a major.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

I then did the tape on the ends of the stubs and ground down the excess brass tube that extends under the shroud. Word of caution again, follow the instructions and grind/cut the tubes first. The heat from that process softened the glue in the aluminum tape and they became a little "soft".

I did to the weld line on the stubs as they are sometimes very visible on the full-sized according to the reference pic's I had. I did do it a little different because I’m inpatient. I installed the tubes into the shroud and then marked where the weld line needed to go. Using Medium CA and I toothpick, I dipped the toothpick in a puddle of CA I had made on a piece of tape (can't wreck my work bench!) and dragged it along the marked line. I didn't put too much CA on the toothpick so that the weld line wasn't too fat. As the glue starts to set, I then run the toothpick through it with a *****ing motion to replicate the uneven top surface of a weld. Came out pretty good.

Once that was done to all of them I pushed them into a piece of foam I had here so that I could spray them all at once and not one at a time because it was quicker than being done individually, and if I paint where I shouldn't, Mr. Sandpaper can take care of that. I started the painting by painting them all over with Humbrol #53 gunmetal. This gives them a nice dark grey "metal" look. Then next step is where the exhausts come alive!

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

I then switched over to Gunze Sangyo acrylic paints called soot, rust and medium grey. All worked a treat. I started by airbrushing the soot, being fairly generous with the soot over the forward face of the stub. #1 stub got the least and as I progressed to the back stub, I applied more and more. With all the paint applied in this step, I tended to stay clear of the band at the end of the stub and the weld line. This helped to accentuate them, and depending on which pic's you were looking at, also correct. That’s another thing I found, the "aging" and deposits on the stubs varied a whole lot from aircraft to aircraft. Some stubs were from soot black to almost white from the preceding stubs discharge. So a fair bit of liberty can be taken with the application of paint.

I once I applied the soot color for the forward faces and the inside of the tubes, I then began with the rust. This was applied here and there in a random pattern and all over the tube except the band and weld again. Spray from a little further than usual for this detailed work helped blend in the “rust” and make it look more natural.

The final color was the medium grey, which is quite light in my book. My paint had actually dried out and so I made some more with by mixing white with a few drops of the soot color. This was only applied to the forward face of the stub where it would have been blown on by the preceding stub, so no white was used on the #1 stubs.. I choose to go a relatively light coating of the medium grey because I have the habbit as most do of overdoing weathering, but I was very happy with the out come at the end of the day.

Last step to do is to clear coat them in a flat clear, and use a gloss clear coat for the shrouds. All done! Took me two nights to finish them. By the time i got my hands on the camera again, i had also painted the white and red checkers and the red band on the nose too!

I B BUCK

I took a break from my kit for a few weeks I got hurt at work.
I did take the time to build this. Kind of fanitcal huh?

Live Wire

This thread is not getting of the hook this easy .
I had to pull my main gear because they did not fit my liking[:@] I want to atleast have it in the air by well 3 to go and 1 in the fire.
Building or flying what comes first. This is the season where you make a choice. What you like to do best.
Larry K

sabre1205

I spent all last year building, and plan to fly all this year


Sabre1205