ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

I'll ask Keleo again and find out why....

Hey Zope, I'm more of a MotoGP fan personally, I love the technology in F1, but it's too surgical come racing time. Casey is like Doohan. Win, or crash trying!!

Thanks

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Ahrr, can't post pic's for some reason.....

Flight controls are painted and installed. All down hill from here!!!! Servos are in the wing so all i need to do is make the guns and glue them on, glue on the flaps, and hook up ther servos to the ailerons and flaps and the wing is complete.i will get a ready to fly weight for the wing then.

Thanks

zope_pope

Yeah, f1 races are a tad dull, but they have been getting better and better over the years. I am bummed about all the rules to make them slower, but some of the racing is getting really good. Qually is really exciting too. Motogp has great overtaking, but I guess my problem is i dont have a team to stand behind.

Can't wait to see pics of the mustang.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

here is the response from Kevin at Keleo:

I still make them for the Saito 100 but not the OS 120, cant make them for that engine and keep everything inside the cowl. Nor do I have the correct part for that engine to even attempt this.

Kelvin Cubbison
53875 N.W. Our Ln.
Gales Creek, Or. 97117
503-359-5318
http://www.keleo-creations.com/


So i guess it's just me who is out of luck!!

thanks

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Ok, finally able to upload pic's again.

Here are the Control surfaces ready for paint. The flaps had already been painted but i also painted the control horn on them. I also made up a trim tab "mechanism" and the nav light housing is also visable. When i'm ready for the clear coat i will install some clear plastic in there to complete it.

The last pic is the rudder painted and the a/c serial number also airbrushed on.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Here are some pic i have just taken, The controls are all permanently installed, also painted the red "no step" area on the flaps. The only paint jobs left are the red section on the nose and the red/white checkers under the exhaust. Guess i'll have to go with the plastic TF supplied ones...

So she is almost ready for the weathering and staining section of the game. i will more than likely start with a panel line wash and then paint chipping followed by another localised wash.

Zope, a few extra gear pic's for your benefit!

enjoy

skylarkmk1

tick,

Lookin' good. Get some close ups of the tail trim mechanism, nav light and other details when you "get 'er done". The wheels, gear, doors and wells look good and I don't think many would notice they are a touch undersize, the rest of your work is nice camoflage for the under carriage.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Skylarkmk1,

Thanks,

It is a MAJOR to try and get correctly sized doors onto one of these P-51's. I know, cos i tryed. The biggest problem is that you would expose a good portion of the main spar through the center load bearing section. The gear is in and working, and i know its a compromise, but hey, this model is a practise for some other models i have in the tube.

Thanks

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Tick:

Are the struts turned around backwards in order to fit the wheels in?

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hummmmm....

skylarkmk1

tick,

Post 1216, on pg 49. Bob is correct and hey, I looked right at it and didn't see it.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Actually, the right is on the left and vice-versa. The scissors go aft, and the hubcaps are outboard.

I B BUCK

Ticketek

I am not one to point thing out usually. Lord knows I don't care much for it. In your post on 3/29/07 they were on correctly
then on 3/31/07 they were switched I figured you just rushed it taking the pictures.
Easy enough fix though and YOUR DOORS LOOK AWSOME! Does your gear go in enough to close the outer doors all the way?
I know i'm going to have trouble with them.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

????? Don't nkow what you guys are talking about? Must be the "your toilet flushes in the opposite direction thing" (Simpson's gag) Check the pic i have attached

On the money I B buck, They were setup and working with the oleo's in the correct direction, and i must have intalled them back to front for the pic's.

Thanks fellas for pointing that one out.

Well, now you can also see i have made and installed the guns, and the servos are all hooked up. Nav lights are in and i have started weathering the top surface of the wing.

Thanks

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Buck,

In reference to the question whether my gear goes all the way in, yes it does, but thats where my disliking of the robarts comes in. They have so much slop from new that they sag a good 1/4" or more in the up position. i have removed most of that by adding some aluminium tape here and there, but that's pretty poor from new in my book.

I have also setup my inner doors to push up the last little bit of slack. I really don't like how i have it set up at the moment, and my two options as i see it are, a: get a new retract block machined so that i get 86-87 degrees of movement and then they will sit up there on their own nicely, or b: use pneumatics for the inner gear doors. The servo driving them at the moment has plenty of torque for the job, and is setup so that there is no -load on it in the up position, but it's a really ugly setup, and i'm almost ashamed to show you how i did it[] owuld need to upgrade the servo horn with a metal one too.

Thanks

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Guy's

Could someone weight their wing for me in a ready to fly state?

I want to see how heavy mine is coming out with all the bit's and pieces i have been putting on.

Thanks

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I'm thinking Robart puts the slop in on purpose- to prevent binding. My 510s are the same way.

chalre

Ticketec,

Thought you might enjoy this photo. This is the photo I am using as my reference.

Your plane looks great. I had my final check through last night and I will be maidening her next week.

Flying Beagle

I went to the Toledo show this past weekend, I looked at CJM & Sierra retracts but decided to buy the Robart 531RS Retracts with the 663 Robostruts.

So far, I have not added any of the rib doublers, so I was able to quickly dremel away each rib with minimal fear of going “too deep”. After everything fits, I will add all of the rib doublers and finalize the locations.

I am pretty sure I can fit the retracts, but the wheels are another story. I have Dave Brown 4 inch Treaded Big Lite Wheels, these wheels are 1 ¼ inch wide. The 663 struts are a ½ inch thick at the axle. See attachments.

Also note the location of the centerline of the strut, which is below the center of the rib. So with the retract pivot point being above the centerline of ribs, this is probably going to be a problem with the 85 degree angle from the 531’s. I would have bought the 90 degree 530’s this weekend, if Zirolli would have had them on hand. But I talked with a Eric from Robart who was very helpful and would exchange them if the 85 degree retracts dont work out.

The drawings show the R2 rib and the wheel in two orientations. The first sketch is maintaining the retract mounting angle as designed, which provides a bit more forward slant to the struts in the down position. The second sketch shows the wheel flush with the lower surface.

Tomorrow I am going to try to sand the width of the foam tires down a bit, we’ll see how that goes…….

Has ANYONE been able to fit 4 inch wheels inside this wing with gear doors ???

Flying Beagle

here are my sketches mentioned above as jpg files

bull51

ticketec,

I can weigh my wing for you, but its not covered yet. Also I dont have a very good scale, but I'll give you a ballpark figure. Give me a day or so, I'll install the servos and retracts and get back to ya!

bull

gwong

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Bob,

Just wanted to say thanks for your reply. I bought the 531RS and using the Robo Struts. The 531RS IMHO look and work better than the 605s...I love the way 531RS lock into place. Bought the Robart 4" Diamond Tread Tires as well. I am deciding whether or not to install wheel covers. If I do, I would have to remove a lot of material especially from the plywood blocks the retracts bolt to and these I doubled up on...yikes.

Thanks again.

Gord.

gwong

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Flying Beagle,

I have the same Robart's setup as you. I do believe if I remove enough material from the plywood blocks in which the retracts bolt to..I can use wheel covers. However, I intentionally doubled up on the blocks for extra strength. So here is the dilemma...No wheel covers but have extra strength for the retracts...install wheel covers but back to stock thickness for the plywood retract blocks.

The extra plywood block I installed is the same thickness of the stock one and is epoxied below the stock one.

My landings are okay...graduated past the 2 or 3 bounce landings...question for the group...anyone ripping out the stock plywood landing gear blocks even with doubled formers?

Thanks a bunch,

Gord.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Gord:

I've read about the various difficulties the guys have had with various retracts and LG doors and have decided that when I start my Mustang, I will first build one half of the wing center section, using ribs and other parts made by tracing the factory parts. I'm going to build a "box" for the retract assembly that can slide between the two ribs that are on either side of it, so I can play around with alignment and angles.

Maybe this will help, maybe not. I bought this kit because it appeared to be the smallest Mustang that could accommodate near scale, retractable main gear. Everything else I've considered in this size range, mostly plans, has a wing that is too thin. If I can't make this work with the mockup wing section, the whole mess is going back to Tower.

bull51

ticketec,

O.k., here we go. I weighed my wing in near ready to fly condition. It has not yet been covered, primed, painted or glassed.

- 3 lbs 10 oz -or-

- 58 oz -or

- 1.6443 kilos -or-

- 1644.3 grams


Keep in mind, this was not done with a digital scale, but it should be within a few ounces of RTF weight if one was only using monokote. Hope this helps,


bull