Norm Nestie

Getting ready to build another Smith Miniplane and would like to make it even better than the first one. Especially the covering. I used white Solartex and red trim and plan on using Worltex (white) and red trim just like the pic on the box. Need advice as to what paint to use over Worltex and the best way to seal it. I used Varathane paint and clear spray to seal and wasn't real happy with the results. The sealer broke down , the paint faded and was almost impossible to keep the plane clean. Any advice would be appreciated.

nickj

That's kind of a small plane to be painting, but you can't beat clearcoat over Solartex or Worldtex for scale looks. My advice would be to iron on the colors, then clearcoat the entire thing. No color paint at all. That's what I did with my Royal Pitts and it still looks great. Pretty heavy, though. I used Hangar-9 in a can, but people seem to have gotten good results with auto clearcoat.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

What equipment are you going to install onboard?

I changed the way the N-struts attached to the wings. the stock way always seemed to unscrew, and then the rod would poke holes in the covering. I'll post a picture in a little while.

My miniplane built heavy.-My own fault. Its on the upper end of 6.5lbs, but she'll still glide in slower than most low-wing trainers! GREAT PLANE bar NONE!!!

You can see my mini in my gallery icon.

nickj

The N-struts are definitely the most troblesome part of the plane. I didn't like how some of the tiny mounting blocks are only glued to the sheeting. I reinforced them and haven't had any problems. I have patches over a couple of the mounts where I accidentally poked through the Monokote.

Not24

My Feedback: (1)

You did an excellent job on your Mini. Never seen one that nicely finished before. If I had one that looked like that i'd probably never fly it.

Norm Nestie

My first Mini came out at juyst over 5 lbs. using the Solartex and painted on red trim. I fly it with a OS 52 Surpass that just loves a 11x6 APC prop. I diddn't have too much troiuble with N struts but really!! reinforced the mounting plates. I have really loved this bipe and it's still in good shape but just feel like building another. I'm not a real good coverer (?) which is why I feel I could handle masking off and painting more easily. I just didn't like the finish of the Varathane or how it weathered. I'm thinking of using Polyurethane for sealing next time instead of spray Varathane. I built another Cub this winter and covered it with Worldtex and sealed it with Min Wax Poly. If the rain up here on the "wet" coast ever stops I'll get to fly it and see how that sealer protects, cleans up and generally lasts.

dallen58

I'm glad to see other Miniplane fans. I love its classic lines. Although this question is not related to covering the Miniplane... I have read that if the plane is built exactly to plan it will tend to balloon with increased throttle. Has anyone experienced this? I also read that one solution is to decrease the incidence of the upper wing. Has anyone changed the wing incidence to eliminate ballooning? If so, how? This is about the only thing keeping me from starting the build. I like to have all major design questions answered before I start.

Thanks

Dallen58

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

It is true, when throttle is increased, the wing likes to climb. Why not cut new ribs to make it semi-symetrical or even fully? The other problem is a large loop; when the airplane reaches the full vertical plane it doesn't like to finish the loop cleanly. You have to pull harder to enter the top of the loop (Remember-flat bottom wing with LOTS of lift!). So if precision aerobatics is what your looking for, go with an Ultimate. But if you simply enjoy flying a beautiful nostolgic airplane, and kick it around, you'll love this airplane.

Mine won't knife edge, but it loves flat spins, lomcevoks, blenders, snaps, inverted flight, etc. I really enjoy the experience with my airplane.

Take offs are not for the faint of heart. With it being so short coupled, it is a squirrel on the ground, but that is overcome with enough experience.

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buzzard bait

Decreasing wing incidence is the wrong thing to do. Downthrust is what is used to keep the pitch from increasing with throttle increase. Downthrust works because it hits the bottom of the stab/elevator. The more throttle, the more it affects the pitch. If you decrease the wing incidence you will have to add up trim, so the prop wash will not raise the tail.

Draw yourself a picture of just the wing and the prop and you will see that downthrust and wing incidence are exactly the same thing. All that changes is the position of the fuse. The stab/elevator has to follow the wing incidence, either by changing the stab angle or by elevator trim.

Sorry, it's harder to explain in words than it is to see it--hope you can make some sense of this.

With a scale model I think it's best to have a computer radio and couple some elevator trim to the throttle. Both thrust line and wing incidence are pretty noticable so it's better if you can leave them alone. Jim

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

I put 1.5 degrees of down on my top wing, and 2 degrees down on my motor, and she still climbs. It's better then no down thrust though.

nickj

I don't think ballooning really describes it. It climbs under power. If you don't want to climb, you give it a little down elevator. As Ilikebipes said, it's not a plane for precision aerobatics. But it's a blast to fly.

Norm Nestie

Inever had a problem with my SMP balooning but the torque roll to the left on take off very nearly caused it's early demise. Contrary to the plans/instructions, 2 degrees of right thrust to the motor took care of that problem. VERY NICE looking Smith. Ilikebipes, puts mine to shame. Ergo; 2nd one on the boards.

Bolio

I had seen several Miniplanes, including mine, with the same balloning effect.
Adding a 1/6" shim to the back wing mounting cured all. Also the right trust is mandatory to avoid groundlooping.
After this mods the plane will fly like a dream.
If anyone wants to buid this or any other biplane better, should buy the Harry Higleys book about biplanes.
He does a lot of good mods to the Miniplane that includes changing the top wing incidence by shimming the cabane mounting plate.
Is the book to have for biplanes.
Saludos.