Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

I have had this kit sitting around for a while and thought I would start building it. Well, it has been a few years since I built a kit and this is only my second build. The first one did come out pretty nice and I didn't think I would have much problems with this one.

Well, here is my first problem; hopefully my only one.

I grabbed the wrong pieces of wood as I was cutting. No big deal right, go to the LHS and buy them over and learn my lesson. So I get to the LHS with pieces of the wood that I need. But they don't have the type of wood listed on the parts list. So I have three questions.

1. Is it ok to switch spruce wood for bass; it is suppose to be used for the wing spar. They only had spruce, no bass.

2. Can I mix the two? i.e. spruce on top and bass on bottom or vice versa.

3. Should I cut out the bass I used for aileron braces and replace with balsa as the instructions said to use or just leave it.


Maybe I should have built the SSE kit I have first, but I do plan to build it next.

Thanks for the help.

Oh yeah, almost forgot.

What do I sand with? Is it first with 200 then finish sand with 400? I forgot what grain paper to use.

Ok, so that is more then three questions. Who counts on here anyway? LOL

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

You can most certainly substitute spruce for bass. The spruce will be a bit stronger.

Use balsa where the kit says. A hardwood will make somethings harder to work with, and will add weight.

We'd use 120-grit for the rough work, and then go to 200-220, and finish off with 320-400. If you want a super-fine finish before covering, wipe the wood off with a slightly-damp cloth, allow it to dry, and then sand off the resulting fuzz and hair with 600-grit. No need to go finer because the wood has a rough grain that the sandpaper can't cure. If you're painting, then you'd fill the grain with a good sealer and go to 800-1000 grit on the sealer and primer.

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Bax.

I'll go back to the LHS and get a couple more pieces of the spruce and cut out the bass that I already put in the aileron.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

You don't need to remove the bass wood.

carrellh

How much basswood did you use? If it is just the diagonal braces I would not change it.

I built the Uproar and have an ASP 61 two stroke on it. It is a nice combination. I've seen them with various .75s and even a 1.20AX and it seems like a great plane no matter what you bolt up front. I recently broke the landing gear mount on mine, and twisted the gear up like a pretzel. My replacement gear is the Dubro plastic/glass unit. It's taller than the stock gear. If you go with a big engine it will add prop clearance.

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

I put the basswood in as the diagonal braces. I only did it on one before I realized my mistake. The second one is sitting there without the braces put in yet.

I bought this kit with the intentions of putting a Magnum .75 up front. Now I have the .75 and a .90 with no home so I could use either one of them.

Like I said this is only my second kit build, I have done many ARFS. My first kit was a Shrike, the small one. That one went together very well; but it was done a few years ago.

carrellh

I'd leave the first one as is and make the second one as close to identical as possible. In my opinion the diagonals are small enough there is not a significant weight penalty compared to the balsa parts.

My uproar was my second kit as well. My first was a trainer. I managed to build a little twist into my fuselage. Fortunately, or possibly unfortunately, I'm not a good enough pilot to notice it once the plane was trimmed. I really do like flying this plane, and I hope you like yours just as much.

carrellh

One thing I would do differently, and may still do, is put a brightly contrasting color on the end of each wing.

The plane has a very small profile when you look at it from the side.

I think it would help visibility to have a neon or flourescent color on the end of the wings.

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

Plane looks nice Carrell. I was thinking of doing a simple covering scheme similar to yours.

I usually go with a contrasting bottom to the top to help with which way is up. When I had my first SSE it was the same top and bottom and was a bear to keep track.

Do you have pin hinges in the tail? It looks like it from what I can see.

I'm going to start back up on the build in the morning. I'm taking photos to show my progress but I don't have the cable to download the pics.

I was thinking of putting the hatch on the bottom instead of the top, to give it a slightly cleaner look. I am going to side mount the engine so the exhaust will go out the bottom.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I have built so many Up-Roars that after the second kit I just started scratch building them, I like them so much. At the time the 60 wasn't put out yet but I have got to fly A couple of them, haven't built or assembled one though. Just A really fun plane to both build and fly. I was building them and giving them to friends. I found one photo of A couple of them from 01 or 02, two all ready to compete with and you can see the wing of one that got eaten by A tree. Great fun fly plane. Outstanding learning tool!!

carrellh

The rudder hinges are Robart hinge points. My first attempt at using them. The installation doesn't look as neat as some that I've seen. All of the other hinges are Dubro flat nylon type. I took everything to my brother's house because he has a slot machine, and he cut the slots for me. But, I really didn't take everything; I left the rudder (or the fin) at home. After I realized my mistake, I decided to try the hinge points since I had them in the drawer. I need much more practice with them to be able to do a neat installation.

Moving the hatch might be a good idea. That way you can put a canopy of some sort on top to give a bigger side profile.

I thought about side mounting the engine but ended up not doing it. It would keep the plane cleaner.

flipstart

Keep up the good work-I did put the hatch on bottom on mine and installed a canopy, powered by a ST 90, its Juuuust right. You will love this plane. Contrasting colors are a must-for me anyway. I put my 40 sized UR on floats and it is fun all over again. Also you may have to build a hatch on bottom back towards the tail feathers for the battery, to get proper balance.

carrellh

Every build has the potential to come out very different for balancing. My Uproar 60 has an ASP 61 on it and the battery pack is on top of the fuel tank. Two guys in our club have the same plane. Both of them had to put the battery pack behind the wing.
Maybe I put too much glue around the tail........

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

I watched a build of the UR 60 when I originally got my kit and found these pics of a build.

I was just looking at some of the pics and saw how he did his vert stab.

Did any of you build your vert stab like this?

I didn't make the rear post that long.

Edit:

OK, this link didn't work. But if you click the link in the next post the vert stab pics are on the top of the page. You can click on one and see a closer view.

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

I guess I could redo the vert stab at this point. I'm not even sure if it has to be built like that.

Here is a link to all of his build pics, if you're interested. [link=http://wydah.sky.prohosting.com/Uproar60.html]Uproar 60 Build[/link]

carrellh

Mine is built the way the book shows, no extended post. Since it has the triangle stock fillets I think it is plenty strong.

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

I ran into another problem.

While putting the wing together I noticed the root rib, R2, is slightly bent. I'm not sure how I did it but all the other ones are straight. It's right after the wing tube. I've already put on the TE stick and lower sheet.

Do you think I can use debonder to take the ribs off the TE and reglue them all? I guess if I'm careful I can cut them off and buy new balsa. I set it up on the root end and it is about a 1/4 raised at the TE. I'd take a pic and post but my camera cable is missing so I can't download.

Thanks for the help.

carrellh

I would try the debonder and reglue.

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

I was thinking about it over night and I think I know what happened.

I checked the ribs before I glued them to the bottom spar, the TE bottom the top spar and the TE stick. I think when I put the tube in I bowed it slightly somehow. I know the tube was a tight fit, I had to twist it in.

I'm going to try putting some debonder on the tub at that rib and see if I can push it on more and straighten it out.

*crossing my fingers*

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

Well, I finally got the debonder and worked on the rib. I had to debond the tube and both spars to get it straight. Now all the ribs are straight and lined up.

I think I'll sand what I have built before I continue with the rest of the plane.

I got about an 1/8 of the tube to trim down and about a sliver and a half of both spars to shave down. But, it's all lined up on the plans.

carrellh

Glad it worked. You'll love the plane when it's finished.

linkadrip

I've been considering this kit to build and put my GMS 120 engine on is the plane big enough to accomidate the large engine or would i be crazy to try such a thing.

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

Twice the recommended size engine? You would have to put a lot of tail weight on I'm guessing.

carrellh

One of the guys in our club has a 1.20 on an Uproar 60 and loves it. I think he said the engine added at least 7 ounces of weight compared to the .61 he originally had. He used a 1400 mAh receiver pack, square configuration and made a place for it near the tail. He did have to add some tail weight but not a lot. With the thick airfoil and 975 sq inches of wing area it can handle some extra weight. He also had to put on a taller landing gear.

linkadrip

Thanks for the information appreciate it i may try it.