dc2 man

well got beetle out today and NO GO the pipe is leaking and noisy,i presume not sealing properly and bogging bad but i think my filter is wet.......

so another strip down is on the agenda ......

slawhammer i hear you on the victory well hopefully for 2010 i will add one to my collection along with an adjustable limited fg diff and another choice of engine for a change oddified red top heli engine (supposed to be awesome) i would like to have at least a choice of 2 monster engines for this beetle as i do so much with it....... these 2 would be considered top shelf.

on the bright side today my order came for the carson stadium chrome wheels as a second choice for my beetle also,they look great here are some snaps from today.
special offer on hobbythek for 70euro 4 two pairs these will be nice display wheels as my fg tractor ones are what i would mostly use.
i couldnt resist

slaw i have a small test vid on the way which you will hear the bogging in.....changed plug,adjusted coil,now it brings me back to 813.......or just cols/wet filter...

vid loading......

slawhammer

DC:..Maybe you misunderstood me....Cut your jet pipe....Get a coupler..You can get the from a automotive shop...
some thing for heat....like they use for a cadalitic converter...For the small tube hook up...not sure of inside hose dia.3/4 inch
or take the header pipe you just cut for a hose fit........Your pipe is to ridged...I don't care what pipe you may use...
any brand name..samba..Fg..Gabe..Ect......You need a header pipe & coupler ........
And get that Picco Kill switch on that beetle.....If ya need help hooking it up ask....Get some bullet conectors...
You tap in to the push button kill switch wires on the engine....Make a short lead out up along ths spark plug wire...Make your
short lead about 6 inchs long....On this lead attach those bullet conectors...Male or female....This is so you can un hook them
to trouble shoot the engine if no start...Just un hook them ..start the engine....should start...reconnect the wire...
If you get the switchwith the light.. make sure the lite is lite....that means your ready to start....
Another good thing with the bullect connectors is when you have to take the engine out of the chassie...Just unhook them...
It is a easy hook up........Just my opinion here..Best to you..Slawhammer

mooman007uk

totally agree with cutting the pipe...the vrc has a collar that slips over the manifold that's slightly larger so allows a bit of flex but cut yours and use a coupler and if you have a buddy that welds get him to weld on a short piece of tube so it slides over the manifold end and weld a couple of spring tabs on too.

The propipe for the FG is still not out yet...the regular vrc is but the pro is a must for modded engines , so you have a bit of time to save...they're not that expensive compared to the old RN that was $350US the propipe is only $229US

dc2 man

yes slawhammer i understand you and that is a great ideaim going to do both as you said great ideas.....i will order a picco immediatly and i may need your help if i get stuck along the way

mooman thats a good price on the pro i wil prob get one when ever the finances allow as for now things are tight so jetpro will have to do.
,i think the victory pipes are awesome.....how was your fitament,i may just cut and join the jetpro for now,i must get head helicoiled.....

as for bogging im not convinced its the carb.....but weather is so wet and snowy it may just be the moisture.

here is a video of the bogging just a quick start up.
you will see clearly what its doing here.

CURRENT SET UP:
1/ engine clean no scores on piston/cylinder as NEW!
2/ new plug
3/ coil reset perfect gap
4/ all engine checked for gaskets/perfect
5/ flywheel good with no damage

CONS:
1/ checked carb but cant find anything wrong
2/ loose pipe on head,cant find a simple fix,nothing worked yet..
3/ bogging & cant find a stable tick over
4/ was always perfect and easy to tune now cant find a balance.
5/ im searching for a solution but its BUGGING ME as i cannot find one
6/ just done a complete rebuild and now may have to do another



all help greatly apriciated
thanks lads.

http://www.vimeo.com/8315167

mooman007uk

throw a 668 on it and try it out, it showing exactly the same symtoms as my flooding 813 carb when i had problems...I reckon your 813 is toasted... try it again then pull off the air filter i bet you'll see raw fuel sitting in it..

dc2 man

nice one moo

i think i will go back to stock carb just to see,but will i loose much on the 668 compared to 813?

the 813 as you know have great launch....

i think you could be right about carb,man are they that troublesome? this is my first 813.....

mooman007uk

I've run them for almost 2 years now and have so far only had one go bad...they have more moving parts to wear out......use the 668 for now and order up another 813...make sure you silicon that hole on the next one...that's where dust gets in and buggers up the accelerator pump, piston and circuit...
running in snow and wet ground you'll not really notice too much of a difference with the 668 only in ground where it has decent grip

dc2 man

ahh damm i never siliconed up the hole on this one i have,crap so i have it ruined?

and i remember hearing you lads saying that also ages ago.......

now it must be carb in trouble........

slawhammer

DC:..Like moo says throw on a stock carb for now.....
Make a header pipe for the exhaust.....
Now let me throw you a curve ball on carbs.....The walbro771 carb.....This has the same internals as the 813 carb...
so the fuel flow will bwe the same.....ONLY DIFFERENCE IS...The walbro 771 has No Accel pump......
I have used this carb as well....I would guess with your super modified engine(CAD)..you will not get more
than 3 gallons of fuel thru it..before it goes to hell again.....But I could be wrong here....Make sure the hole on the
813 on the back side is silaconed up.......You adjust all the carbs the same way...you know how to do that...
is by the plug color..light brown........You now know why I have 3 extra carbs....1 goes bad..put on a different 1
It will be a carb..gas problem or ignition......Simplist to check is ignition first..then move on to the gas problem...
you have to have 3 to make it run...(air..gas..spark)......

dc2 man

hey slaw i read you loud and clear on that man,good advise....

i got 6-7 668 carbs,just the one 813 but dont think i have any 713.....then again if i looked i might.....

the biggest thing i suppose here is the engine needs the head bolts sorted again,i dont know what im going to do to avoid helicoil job......thing is im not really in the form to be trying to find a motorbike shop to do it as they could take forever.

but slaw thanks for that exhaust coupler advice,i will defo do that.......

damm this bloody carb is hard to diagnose a problem with,one thing i spotted today is the tank,mmm the line FEED seems to be drawing a lot of airbubbles from the tank..........strange.........maybe i have a faulty tank? its not leaking....seal seams ok,feeds are good........again hard to fault these things.......

slawhammer

DC:..change the klunker..& fuel lines..That way your fresh....
Is the stud holding now?... I still say your pipe is to ridged.....
That is a walbro771 carb....
Doing a heli coil is simple.....you get every thing in a kit.....
As for me..every time I change to a new carb..I replace the klunker & lines..cheap investment to eliminate fuel
problems.......always new....What's it cost..10 bucks............

dc2 man

yes slaw good idea i think i better,at this stage i will have to try....

i will change them all.

slaw the studs didnt hold with the jb,its not that the jb weld didnt do as intended but the problem is i cannot get pipe on tight enough to the head anymore and that needs to be tight otherwise i will have leaks and performance goes out the window as you know yourself.

slaw your knowledge is welcome my friend

slawhammer

DC:.... Ok as to the stud..can you remove it?
Make a new stud..........
Is the JB WELD in 2 tubes? ....What does the package say to use it for? Should be steel...you mix together......
Man I tell ya that stuff is strong.......You can even tap that stuff ..It is like steel....when it gets hard...Has to full cure 24 hours...
My suggestion is reclean the hole....get it good & clean ..make sure it is dry.....
If that is 2 part JB Weld mix it..use it only..nothing else added...Just the JB WELD .....I thing when you tried to use the lock tite
with it it did not make a good bond....I am just guessing here..........Slawhammer

dc2 man

slaw i hear you on that.
here is the stuff i used but the problem like i say is even when using the weld i cannot seem to torque the pipe tight enough,you see?

maybe this time i will apply some of it in the holes and re-tap in with the bolts with some more on bolts,the problems isnt so much the loose bolts as the jbweld defo fixes that but the problem is i cannot get a tight enough sqeeze for the pipe you see.

here it is this stuff i use two tubes..

http://www.jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

slawhammer

DC: Ok that's the stuff....make a longer stud....fill the hole as best you can with a tooth pick..
install the stud..let full cure 24 hour......
Like I keep saying...you need to cut the jet pipe..make a header....For my exhaust gasket..I attach it to the header pipe
I use womans clear nail polish...apply it to the header pipe..lay the gasket on there to dry....then apply anothe coat of nail
polish on tha gasket again..let dry.....That way no fussing with the gasket & tring to hold it And get linged up with the cylinder...
Then put the header on the cylinder..If need be use a sealant with the exhaust gasket....flat washer....serated lock washer....nylon lock nut.....this will work.....I have used this method.,....
Now with cap bolts..I drill a hole and safty wire them when tight.......I use nothing but a header pipe....And silacone coupler
No soild pipes..I had this same issue as your having before.........
The new stud will work this time......once you make the header..............
Best to you on this...Slawhammer

slawhammer

Dc: forgot to ask...Does the stud even want to screw in the hole?
Do you have a dremal tool?...
Cuz I have another idea for ya.........
Now if the stud will screw in to the hole some what.....Take the new stud you going to use...
make a slot up the threads on the stud....threads being cross ways...your going to make a small slot..yes a groove
..It will look like a tap....with a channel....Make only 1 slot...say 10mm long....It helps in a pinch to strighten
damaged threads....But if your hole is damaged to much...you will have to relay on the JB WELD to hold....
If your confussed ask again before you do this..or do it on a bolt ot stud your going to throw away...
If you go this route..make 1 put up a photo..to see if you got it correct.....Slawhammer

dc2 man

AHH i get you now,i uesd the normal bolts before but now im going to use studs in the head along with the jb weld,this has to work........really no two ways about it...
yes stud will screw in the hole but wont get a tight enough grip to sqeeze pipe on,but the jb weld along with the studs should work really....

BUT..... the studs will be big M6 size maybe little bigger,so the nuts to hold on pipe need to be big then also,now HERE is where another problem lies,the nuts if that size may not screw in cause they will be rubbing the pipe................i meant to say that slaw to you...

as regards carb do you recon i should use a stock 668 for time being? will i drop much hp i wonder.......?
i will order another 813 when i can afford it.

as for the header coupler slaw i will defo do that,its a great idea in fairness


slaw these ideas could be after saving me a cylinder head ..BUT i now need to figure out the engine running dilema......im thinking now did i put something back together wrong,i know i did line up the piston ring with the groove on piston but there is a chance i may not have by pure mistake......i have built loads of engines and never had problems,this is my first........

i must do a complete tear down tomorrow and find that fault..........
slaw i really dont want to loose any power and the 813 was a great contributer in this....

check out this recent vid and watch the low down power,couldnt keep front on the ground,and i genuinely run rich......way more tuning potential.......


http://www.vimeo.com/7112917

slawhammer

DC: M6 thats a big bolt or stud...do you have any of those.?Who close is the nut to the pipe?
So your saying the old bolt spins in the cylinder..& does not get tight.......
If thats the case..use the same size for a stud...the JB Weld will hole it in the cylinder....
Your going to have to make a header ..If you want this to be tight.....you can just take the engine out..
fill the hole and put in the stud..let cure..attach the header pipe....then install the engine back in the chassie...
then you knoiw it will be tight...and won't have a exhaust leak......Once back in the chassie ..you can attach the silacone coupler.
...Your jet pipe is to ridged...That engine has to make the car shake from vibration......Slawhammer

dc2 man

yes i think thats what im going to do with it now.......

i really think that is the only awnser.......i just updated the last post by the way with few things i forgot...

i really cant afford to loose any power with this,the carb is a great performer,check out the low end power in this recent vid,i litterly couldnt keep front end on ground.....

and i was running rich actually......i wouldnt mind having it back to this running order again.

i will go at it tomorrow and yes i will use the studs.i think they will work,but slaw im really confused about the tuning and running and the way its acting up right now,i hope i will have more awnsers tomorrow now.

i hope to have it back to top notch after tomorrow,i will let that jb cure for 24 hours,but i should have an awnser on engine tuning tomorrow and if i can find the problem,its a monster powerhouse slaw these two vids here were very fast....its heavy!


here in case you missed it slaw:
#1
http://www.vimeo.com/7112917

#2
http://www.vimeo.com/7361795

[img]{akamaiimageforum}/thumbnails/464442/Sp45560.jpg[/img]
Click for fullsize

slawhammer

DC: Fix the stud bolt first...make the header....
use the 668 carb for now..at least you will be able to run it and check out the exhaust & new fuel supply...
alwasy make sure you have a dry air filter............
You may want to consider the walbro771 carb..at a later point.........
But if you get 3 to 5 gallons from the 813 carb so be it......there cheap to buy......
There a good carb..little fussy to get adjusted up...other than that great carb.....
As very last resort..you can heli coil it........

dc2 man

hey slaw
im going to strip sometime today and completly strip carb and check,going to remove head from engine again and inspect everything......if this fails i will need new 813 and fuel tank & lines etc etc i will also do the stud fix and header today if i can.

where would be the best place to get a header coupler?
this header is a wider diamater then usual.........maybe an extra 4mm in all than a normal pipe.

thanks

slawhammer

DC: I would cut your jet Pipe..to make a header...Automotive parts house should have heat temp hose...
Example..Heater hose..You want Green in color....like 75mm inside dia...
As To buy a header...Not sure if www.bonzisports.com would have what you are looking for..there pretty much
boat people..But they do have or had lot of engine stuff..Just a idea on this...You may have to do a google search for RC engine related parts.......Slawhammer

badboy2

My Feedback: (13)

what pipe is good for a 26????im getting a fg truck from here and its bone stock ..i wanna start with the pipe and maybe have it set up for drag racing later on.

dc2 man

hey badboy i would go with a samba for 26cc,easy to mount and a great performer.....
otherwise like mine a jetpro but you would have to do some mods to it to make it a great pipe....

but if money wasnt an object you could go with an rn victory pipe like slawhammers/moomans the ultimate pipe.....



VITAL UPDATE PROBLEM WITH CARB SORTED..... funny story

well i wasnt at car sinse as i had some christmas shopping to sort out yesterday but it came to my mind whats wrong apart from pipe problem,i had my petrol gallon in the car the other day ready with 200mill of oil in it ready to mix with 5liters of petrol but i forgot and left it sit for a few days in the car.........so finally when iwent for it to mix with petrol i forgot i had oil in it allready and put in another 200mill of oil............so now i was trying to tune with 400mill to 5 liters hah

problem sorted thank god

but now to try slawhammers idea when i get chance later maybe on exhaust studs

HAPPY CHRISTMAS TO ALL AND BEST WISHES FOR 2010
dan ahern

slawhammer

Dc:...Things Happen...You got too much on your mind...Your loosing the concept of the rc project....
you need to focus on what your doing......But glad you have figured otu what the problem may be...Slawhammer