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Servos for full Flying Stabs

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Old 04-16-2015, 07:29 PM
  #26  
Pylonracr
 
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But we are talking about an FEJ airframe. so.......
Old 04-16-2015, 07:44 PM
  #27  
mikes68charger
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Originally Posted by Pylonracr
But we are talking about an FEJ airframe. so.......
Sooo...? We all know there not all cap but

If I can make a byron f16 safe I think anything is possible

I guess what I'm trying to say I see this jet as much work as if I would just kit build a f16

Last edited by mikes68charger; 04-16-2015 at 08:02 PM.
Old 04-16-2015, 11:17 PM
  #28  
uzegnaramo
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I paid exactly $0.00 for it, my buddy who was scared off from building it because of this site

Last edited by uzegnaramo; 04-16-2015 at 11:19 PM.
Old 04-17-2015, 03:01 AM
  #29  
Hinckley Bill
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Originally Posted by FalconWings

Instead of adding redundancy, I try to reduce stupidity.

Awesome philosophy......thanks for sharing it with us!
Old 04-17-2015, 03:33 AM
  #30  
grbaker
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it's a 1/7 F16 FEJ modern Honeycomb
The anti-rotation bolts in your stab pivot shaft are anchored into honeycomb. The play in your stabs is going to get a whole lot worse in just a few flights unless you cut into them and modify/repair them.

Won't matter how good your servo or linkage is.
Old 04-17-2015, 04:05 AM
  #31  
mikes68charger
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Originally Posted by grbaker
The anti-rotation bolts in your stab pivot shaft are anchored into honeycomb. The play in your stabs is going to get a whole lot worse in just a few flights unless you cut into them and modify/repair them.

Won't matter how good your servo or linkage is.
While yes I agree with you it looks as they may have learned something from this site,

My shafts came attached to ply with a outer support of honeycomb then topped with 1mm carbonfiber

I did cut into the elevators on both sides of the pivot point. The filled holes in the honeycomb to lit the bolts pass through without contact so I could see the ply

There was also triangle peace of balsa attaching the shaft support to the root peace of ply that the main shaft goes through.

I still added some basswood to add support, aropoxy the spaces around the bolt holes and honeymoon, and added hard wood peace with holes drilled in to support the Bolts over a wider area.
Old 04-17-2015, 08:36 AM
  #32  
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Sounds like you are on the right track. Best of luck with this project.
Old 08-15-2015, 03:56 PM
  #33  
mikes68charger
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I just wanted to make an update on this, I have around 30 flights now on this set up, but Im going to replace my used up servos tomorrow, I'll give you a before and after slop messure
Old 08-17-2015, 03:17 AM
  #34  
Dblex
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Originally Posted by FalconWings
Dont mean to dissapoint you but I use 90oz servos on my elevators, 70-75oz on ailerons, and 70 oz on rudder. 2000Mah battery.No regs, no power box. Have never lost an airframe to radio, servo, or battery failure.
1/8th Skymaster F-16.

Over the years on RCU I've learned how stupid people with very complicated equipment still lose their airframes due to stupidity. Instead of adding redundancy, I try to reduce stupidity.


I agree! Share your details buddy!
Old 08-17-2015, 09:52 AM
  #35  
FalconWings
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Originally Posted by Dblex
I agree! Share your details buddy!
Sure, Hi,

On elevators they were JR 32 something. Used them on my Bandit ARF too becasue they were the only ones that would fit, and on a Tamjets F-16. I now have HS-5625MGs, they provide a little bit more torque if you use 6V.
Ailerons I use 5245MG, so easy to install. I know people who have used Hitec thin wing servos succesfully on ailerons, they are barely 60 in-oz. I'd only use those if you are 100% sure you will never use ailerons as flaps.

Then for rudder I use JR Thin Wing digital DS-398. You could go HiTec, thin wing but I'd rather have the extra 20 in-oz since I do use rudder a lot, and at high speed.

This is a proven combination, that doesnt require a lot of power. I probably use between 250-400 Mah per flight, including a power thirsty EV5A valve.

Keep em light, fly em right. ;-)

David
Old 08-17-2015, 04:46 PM
  #36  
mikes68charger
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Well it turns out my Spectrum 6030 have as much gear slop as ant of the new servos I have on the shelf.

I did replace the FEJ ball bearing ball links as there was just a tiny amount of slop on the bolt shaft. Originally there was no slop because how tight the bushings were but over time the lose end up a tad, the new dubro heavy duties were very tight

I still have 6mm of slop, I just finished installing a Cortex gyro hoping it can get rid of some of the hunting this f16 seems to do.

I got 6 more flights yesterday
Old 08-17-2015, 05:23 PM
  #37  
FalconWings
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mike please post pics of your jet!
Old 08-18-2015, 05:57 AM
  #38  
mikes68charger
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Ill be honest I was very worried about putting to much money into this beast, but I cant belive how much better the Cortex Gyro made this jet fly
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:11 AM
  #39  
FalconWings
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What a beautiful model. Ill buy it from you for $15. Thats an ifinite profit! LOL
Old 08-18-2015, 07:16 AM
  #40  
yeahbaby
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Cool paint scheme
Old 10-14-2015, 07:10 AM
  #41  
mikes68charger
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Ok, so Im revisting this topic, I have put another 25 flight on it since the Cortex and changeing to dubro ball likes, very nice, but I still have more slop than I would like, it bothers me, so it makes me worrie and that is no fun,

So as this elevator set up is just a steel shaft with a nlyon sleve, there is still some slop in that part of the assembly.

So Last night took it apart, and found a bearing from my trex600 kit, that fit on the control arm assembly. Built a plate that screws into a former, basicly supported it on the end closes to the exsaust tube, this got rid of a lot of slop, make it feel more sold, now Im able to see all I have left is 4mm or so of slop vs the 1/2in of slop I started wtih before the dubro ball links. But I can not see for sure the slop is in the gear of the servo as It is the only part that moves now when I move it.

It seems like I should not be worried about 4mm of free movement on the stabs, but My F15 has less, so I feel like the F16 should to.

So all is left to do is eather live with it, or change servos, I have been doing some reading and it seems like the Hitec 7955TG servos have great rep for very tight gear lash, and that is what is in my F15 or otheres seem to love MKS DS1230 Servos.

I ordered new Savox servos at one point, 1270TG but they have almost the same amount of slop as the Spectrum 6030 that are in there. Its crazy to me how just a little movement on the servos = a few mm at the stab. I got some new Futaba 3305 mg for anther project, and with the same 1/2in metal servo arm, I cant feel any gear lash...

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