mkranitz

My Feedback: (60)

Hi Guys,

I'm starting a new Elan thread because the current one is over 100 pages long and unwieldy. I am going to begin it with some questions that I'm sure lots of newcomers to the Elan would want answered but for which there are no answers in the instructions:

1. FLAP INSTALLATION: When you install per instructions and slots pre-made from factory, the flap cannot retract back to the neutral position (it's a bit downward, say 5%). The only way to get the flap to neutral is to install it with about a 1/4" gap between it and the fuselage. If you do that, the CA hinges won't hold well because they only penetrate 30% on each side and the trailing edge of the flap extends well beyond the trailing edge of the fuse (which is contrary to what the instructions show). What did you do about this? (see picture below)

2. DREAMWORKS AIR BOTTLES: In order to get the bottles into the fuse, I had to lift up the tray that comes pre-mounted in the fuselage and do some cutting of formers. This didn't even do the trick. I had to put a straight cut through the first hole former in order to change it's shape temporarily to allow the bottle to slide through. Otherwise, the angle of the bottle approaching the first hole former is too much to allow the bottle to slide through. I'd be interested in other solutions. (see pictures below)

3. SERVO MOUNTS: For the servos, rather than using the screws supplied, I simply drilled holes all the way through the mount and used 2.5 mm bolts. It feels much more secure.

4. HEAT SHIELDING: I realize that there are guys who have applied zero heat protection and have hundreds of flights. I'm paranoid. I installed BVM heat blankets on the bottom of the fuse (adhesive was Permatex Copper High Temp silicone) and then I painted BVM ceramic heat shield over it (see pix below). I also painted the wood surfaces with it. Looks crusty, but the insides of my jet won't be melting or burning! (pix below)

5. GEAR INSTALLATION: On the main gear I had to use the drum attachment to my Dremel to allow for the flanges on the Dreamworks gear. Todd suggested it to me and at first I didn't want to cut into the fiberglass. You can see that it doesn't really harm the appearance and it works well. The kit suggests screwing the gear in with the included 12mm x 2.6mm screws. I know Alan has put incredible thought into this so I'm sure the screws work fine. My preference was to use blind nuts and long bolts to secure the gear. I haven't chatted with Alan, but I'm wondering if using the screws allows the landing gear to easily rip out on a hard landing without destroying the fuselage. If that is the case, I need to grease all of my landings! (pix below)

6. CLEVISES: Again, personal preference, but I used 4-40 rod and metal clevises everywhere.

BaldEagel

Good Idea starting a new thread may bring some life back into the Elan builds.

Flaps, I used Robart hinges to get over that problem, drilled a hole in the stub wing tip so I could get a ply plate in and Hysoled them in.

Air Bottles, I used Robart bottles, but had to distort them to get them in, at the back of the fus under the tank plate the two horizontal ply formers (beside your bottle in the pic above) can be removed with a bit of flexing and then you can get the bottles into the air inlet to manouvre them into position, I then replace the ply formers with a couple of carbon rods this makes a better fixing for the velcro that goes around the fuel tank.

Servo mounts, never had a problem with the standard screws, only check the ply plates in the booms, they sometimes are not glued in too well.

Heat Shielding, afraid I am one of those who did not have a problem, but did use some BVM heat shield paint, always did a test start before putting on the stab in case of a hot start, never did have one, but know if I had put the stab on I would have. LOL

Gear Instalation, I used the screws provided, eventually I did rip the UC out and had to replace the beams as well as putting in T nuts and bolts, but the screws lasted well for over 50 flights on a very bumpy grass field.

Clevis, used 3mm rod and Robart horns the bolt type that line up with the profile of the surface, ball links on the servo end and the Robart supplied split clevis with split pin connection.

This all sounds like an add for Robart.

Mike

highhorse

My Feedback: (2)

I did talk to Allan, thats exactly right. It's a deliberately designed stress relief. He wants the gear to rip away from the mounts, rather then the mounts to rip away from the rest of the airframe.

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,

Good idea on the new thread. As far as the tanks go, going to ones about half that size would work. Robart does have them. I had the same problem with the tanks being way to large in my Sprint. Just an idea.

Doc...

mkranitz

My Feedback: (60)

That makes way too much sense and would ruin the fun of carving the inside of the fuse into Thanksgiving dinner.

BaldEagel

Duplicate post.

Mike

madmodelman

How are you Doc?, I just removed the plate and fiddled one tank in on the stb side, plenty of air for both gear and brakes, just needed to remove a little bit from the hole in the former.
Gary.

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,

Good to hear from you. As much as I like Allen, I am still not sure what he was thinking with the design for the tanks. With the removable fuel tank floor, (which mine wasn't) it would have made more sense to have only half an opening installed for the air tanks then use a secure velcro tie down or cable tie to secure the tanks. It's a mess as it is. As I mentioned before, Robart makes air tanks half the size of the ones he shows in the manual. O well, I am not picking on him but the whole idea of threads like this is to improve the product if possible. Two heads are better than one. I just sold my new Elan after 4 very sucessfull flights. I sold it to help me get my winter project which I will display in Toledo next April for JPO. I was just made the district Rep for JPO in this area which covers 4 States. The ship I just purchased is the Skymaster Extream BD-5j in the Coors color pattern. It's a show stoper and will display great. Talk about wing lifting. the length is 64 1/2" and the wings ar 88 1/2". I am not sure the link below will work but if it does I think you'll be impressed. Talk to you soon.
Doc...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbK9N_BlALM

madmodelman

Link works Doc, nice one!

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

Hi Mike
So you got it, call if you need anything. I sold the baby Boomer and bought a Avonds F-15 kit. I have about 55 flights on the Flash now, and about 15 on the F-86.
Hope to see you at the field with the Elan. George

Stobe777

My Feedback: (1)

Make the plywood tray under the tank removable...heat gun will help removing the glue. I covered mine and the other equipment tray with the ABS carbon- look plastic sheet. No heat shielding, but the air and servo lines underneath the turbines front end are shielded with silicone spiral and alu tape. Turbine...as back as possible and may need shimming at the front end to avoid blowing into the elevator. I put 2 large air tanks in with some abuse to the formers. Batteries as back as possible if you want a nice knife edge. So far 43 flights in mine, really a nice model that flies in bad crosswind when other flyers decide not to fly...
Wren 120 powers mine well! Just my wing tube broke after 30 flights and I replaced it with a one with thicker walls...the one included had maybe 1 mm of strength.
TP.

mkranitz

My Feedback: (60)

strobe, good comments and you validated my experience with the air tanks and turbine placement and shimming!

DOMD

My Feedback: (17)

I too noticed the weak wing tube and put a wooden dowel in mine. Using a little heat the plate can be removed but the formers still need to be opened up for the air tanks.

I have over 50 flights on mine and no problems.

Dom

petera38

Hi,

I hate to run out on air! Think those small airbottles get empty too soon, so I installed a couple of coke pet bottles.....1 liter of air"!

Regards
Pete

Jet Lag

My Feedback: (26)

A right angle dremel attachment makes enlarging air tank holes a breeze[8D]

petera38

Yep I know....I´ve got one...but the bigger one was a lot more effective!

/Pete

readyturn

My Feedback: (9)

My problem would be going thrugh the side of the fuselage........

Rick

mkranitz

My Feedback: (60)

Hey Guys,

I've been toiling away on the Boomerang. I've been taking my time making sure everything is just right. Besides, I haven't built anything in awhile (just modifying stuff I buy) so this is enjoyable.

I've posted three pictures:

1. The overhead shot of the cockpit stuff shows where I situated stuff. I'm using the huge AR9200 Powerbox which eliminates matchboxes and voltage regulators and doubles as a receiver so that gets center stage. I've got the Jet-Tronics valves for retracts and brakes and found a way to sneak the tubing up through the slots in the tray and eliminate some mess (yeah, it's underneath). I carved radii in the large opening so I could drop in my propane bottle (which has velcro on one side to attach to the front former) and as you can see there is very little tubing between the bottle and the T-junction for the solenoid and the filler festo. The ECU is easy to access as are the gauges and filler ports for the retracts and brakes.

2. I put the ECU battery all the way in the back and covered the butt end of it with aluminum tape to ward of any heat.

3. I used heavy duty clevises everywhere. Showing you the flaps.

This has been a very enjoyable process. Now almost ready to put the turbine in!!

BaldEagel

Looks like a JetCat ECU in there, if you have it modified to A123 use a three cell triangular pack fits in between the wheel wells and then you will not have to remove it to recharge, its not advisable to re-charge a LiPo in the airframe just in case of problems, but A123's are so stable they can be recharged in place, they also take a high amp charge so can be topped up on the field if needed.

I also use two 2 cell A123's for the Rx packs, no regulator needed, with the Fromeco Kodiak switch you get a Mah read out of how much capacity you have used during the flight as well.

Mike

readyturn

My Feedback: (9)

One thing that you may want to change are the zip ties... They are great for wire and tubing bundles, but not for line connections of fluids. The plastic/nylon zip tie will not seal around the barbed fittings which may result in a leak at that connection. You should use safety wire for all of these connections.

Rick

mkranitz

My Feedback: (60)

Yeah, I have safety wire. I hate the way it cuts into the tubing (yes, tighten less) but after having tried to remove a few tubes from these barbs I'm convinced that NOTHING gets through the seals! I may go back and redo those if I can figure out how to use that fancy wire twister thingy I have! []

Doc...

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,

You must be using the wrong gauge wire. It needs to be 20 gauge. Dreamworks has the special plyers that works great for that or any application. Everthing in my Elan and Sprint that uses air lines or tubing is safety wired including all the break line connections.

Doc...

lov2flyrc

My Feedback: (24)

Michael,
Double wrap the safety wire around the tubing before twisting, this puts an even compression around the tube. Instruction sheet provided below will walk you through using the twist pliers....
Todd

mkranitz

My Feedback: (60)

Thanks Todd, I dug up the instructions and have been winding away!

shepp

Please don't try to cut anything other than safety wire with these pliers . At least the one I have has a soft cut edge and it will gap and ruin the cutting edge unless it is soft safety wire. Guess how I know??

Shepp