ata

Unfortunatelly these parts are different from the original Typhoon parts, they won't fit!

And here are the final products:

ata

I build an all wood version with some material change. I use double tapered pine spars (for wing 5x10 mm -> 2x4 mm) and longerons (for fuse 5x5 -> 3x3). It adds only a little weight but a lot of strength. Here are all manual cut parts:

ata

I built the wing structure and glued the sheeting on (one side). I'm using rubber bands to hold the sheeting in place. It works good if you put weight on flat surfaces (near TE). I'm using a wood template to support TE in correct position.

Xrod

My Feedback: (2)

ATA, your parts look great! Good job. How much would you charge me for a cowl assembly and canopy? I hate for you to go to the trouble of making molds only for one part!
Steve

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

Man, you guys do some sweet work! Makes me envious. Keep em coming!

-Mike

tph1

My Feedback: (12)

I wish there was a short kit of the fuse parts like that left photo.

troyhm

Hi Everyone

I asked ata if he sold the pieces he made last night. Hes reply was he made a mistake when making the molds so they dont fit the typhoon/tempest as standard and he had to modify his plans instead. Im sure he will answer himself but that is the reply that I got

Troy

macro-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Hey ata, very good looking parts....

GO, DO IT.....

wladkummer

My Feedback: (7)

I´m designing my own 2M plane... Please could you inform me how much is the Typhoon wide. Mine will came out at about 4" at the widest point at the fuse.

troyhm

Hi

The typhoon is approx five and half inches at the widest point f2. Hope that answers your questions

Troy

ata

Hi,

for everybody who would like composite parts: like Troy mentioned, this parts not compatible with original Typhoon parts (actually they not Typhoon parts) and they are prototypes. I don't know if they long lasting or are they too heavy or not so be patient. I have not planned to sell them, but maybe one day in the future ...

Other news: my wings are ready to accept wing adjusters and upside sheeting.

sigk

I am using an extended aileron facing, it gives a little more strength and distributes the stresses of the wing past the aileron cut out section.
It's also important when using a very thin sheeting like paper.

sigk

The fin/rudder and stab has been sheeted with 135gr m2 paper and I like the result. It certainly is strong enough, just need to be careful with the razor plane when working on the leading and trailing edges not to accidentally cut into the thin sheeting.

sigk

For the sockets I used the same paper. Six layers seems to be the right thickness.

sigk

Sockets

macro-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Hey sigk, what a great kind of materials you use....

Can it be painted over paper or need be glassed?

I mind when sheeted over control surfaces

sigk

Roberto,
No you don't have to glass it before painting. Just needs a little sanding and that's the beauty of it, it takes very little work to prepare it for covering and/or painting.

macro-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Is this paper sheeted more stiff and resistant than balsa and glass?

Looks like a good armour....

I'll use this next project for wing and stab, must be cheap...

sigk

No Roberto, it's not as stiff as balsa and glass but it's much lighter. What I especially like is to use paper and a thin glass cloth together. Usually I have used obechi veneer or koto for sheeting foam wings but the paper is only 1/3 of the weight.
My only concern is because the paper is so thin, there is a danger of the trailing edge warping. But thin strip of glass cloth and a little wider balsa trailing edge might take care of that, I hope.
Yes you are right it is cheap, one 50 meter roll of paper cost me the same as 3 sheets of 1,5 balsa. 50 meters of paper is enough for 12 sets of wings so it's almost a joke. A 2 meter wing costs me no more than a new fuel tank so it is affordable if I want to try many different wings. Sure it is the most cost effective and the quickest way to build wings. I'm using Bob Smith Industries Finish-Cure epoxy and that gives me a very nice semi hard finish.

ata

Hi,

the elevator halves almost ready for the second sheeting. But after making the servo places I'm sure I don't know should I use one servo with pushrods or two servos in the elevator... Maybe I will decide later.

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

Atilla, the plane is designed to have 2 servos in the tail. If you use one servo with a pushrod, you may have to add some tail weight. To my thinking, that's just more dead weight. But it's been done both ways.

Just oen note: DO NOT use an MK bellcrank on this plane. For some reason, the failure rate is extremely high with this airplane. I know of far too many cases first hand.

Hope that helps,
-Mike

ata

Hi Mike,

I thinked about putting both rudder and elevator servos back to the tail. In this way the weight doesn't missing. I won't use MK bellcrank, I would choose something low cost, homemade solution. I think that a stiff T pushrod is a good solution (I saw one on Bob Pastorello's web site, but I can't find anymore). But right now I prefer the original 2 servos in the stab version again (this plane will be my prototype, so I shouldn't change a lot of thing).

How do you mount the "Hyde mount" to the firewall? How do you adjust it sideway?

The fin are almost ready to glue on LE:

lfalsetto

My Feedback: (10)

Is there any word on the Gator Cowl?

rodney tanner

My local guy can do a fg set of TK2 Conopy, Chin Cowl, and cheeks for just under $US 80. They are well made and lighter than the Gator origionals.
Two Gator Canopies have just shown up from Radio South. I no longer need them so will sell them at the same cost plus shipping to anybody who wants one.
I also have a full cowl we can pull copies from if needed. Don´t have a cost but would come out under the Gator price.

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

Rodney: I and at least one other person I know would be interested in a full cowl.