DHMountainBKR

I am new to tanking and have questions hopefully someone has run into.

I installed the TK22 Tiger 1 board and it does not work with the IR version of the tank. the elevation and recoil do not work.

also, the tank controls for going left and right are backwards, I have followed the trim on the Clark site to no avail it still is backwards turning ( 3/4 up and right turns left and 3/4 up and left turns right. I am using a flysky I6 controller. Any help would be wonderful!

Thank you very much!

Green Amphibian

Reverse your Tx servo controls in the Tx programing. You must also use a Sony remote to turn on the recoil effect and to set up the board for your tank. Elevation and recoil need to be done with servos, not the original equipment.

DHMountainBKR

Green Amphibian, Thank you so very much! Reversed for 1 and 4 now both turret and drive is correct!!! YOU ROCK!

Thanks again for the quick reply and saving me!

DHMountainBKR

sorry dupe message

Strato50

Elevation is stock, like in a HL or Taigen setup? Usually works right away through the 8-pin connector cable... or is it one of those connectors with plugs?

The Clark website has excellent directions and wiring diagrams if you're inclined to follow such things,

Max-U52

Herman is correct about the programming. It sounds like your board is set for airsoft. You need to install the jumper and the programming device, point the remote at it and I think the change is with the power button. Go to this page

http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx20/

and scroll down to the part about asiatam recoil. You may have to re-run some wiring. Lower on the page it explains programming. You should read this entire page carefully (bummer) because it will provide a wealth of info that will help you enjoy the TK22 to its full capability. When I first got my clark I hated it, but after carefully reading this page and following the instructions I was able to set up my clark so it runs to my taste and now I really, really like it.

I should've started with - Welcome to the forum, Bro. Is there something a little shorter than DHmountainbkr we can call you? I'm Gary. And knowing where you are always helps. As you can see, I'm in Detroit. Your profile page has a location setting for that, but for now, where are you?

The stock recoil in the Taigen is the asiatam unit so those are the instructions you need.

DHMountainBKR

I have a Taigen tank with stock elevation recoil. Thank you very much for your help!

I have been reading the clark instructions and will go more in depth once the remote and programming cable arrive.

Thank you very much for the welcome! I reside in Reno, Nevada and hoping to get hooked up with a group, but it does not look like any other tankers in town.

My Name is Todd Downhill mountain biking is what I do when I am not messing with the Taigen Tiger 1 late.

I do have one further question. my controls are mixed, on the clar site shows forward and reverse on the left stick mine are both on right for forward reverse and left right. would that be the stick change? to set like clark? also, I only see sub trim (flysky i6) not trim. I tried to adjust as shown on clark site by setting #4 all the way to left or right then bringing back to center and it just makes strange sound...

mcm308

You need to change the channel wires into the reciever to flip the drive to left side.

Max-U52

I had the same thing with mine, and to make it like clark designed it (throttle on left, steering on right) I THINK I swapped 2 & 4 but I'm not positive. It was just a simple swap, though, and then everything was the same way it is on clark's webpage. Your best bet is to get the tank up on a 4x4 or something so the tracks aren't touching the ground, just in case.

DHMountainBKR

Awesome, I will give it a shot when I get home.
I did see this on Clarks site but I thought I had mode 2 not 1
for Mode 1 switch the CH2 and CH3 cables (i.e. CH2 -> CH3, CH3 -> CH2)
Thanks!!!

Max-U52

Most radios come with only one stick that self centers and the other has a ratchet operation. If the self centering stick is on the right it's a mode 2.

DHMountainBKR

Max-U52 should I not switch the cables then? mine is definitely mode 2.
Thanks!!

DHMountainBKR

I was thinking of switching the Stick Mode to hopefully reflect the correct changes?

Max-U52

I don't know much about the hook up for IR tanks, but if you swap the cables and get throttle on left and steering on right I think it's a lot easier to figure out the rest. All the instructions on clarks site are geared to that configuration and you can always go back after you get things sorted out. I also don't know the D6 so I can't help you there, but I do know you might have to reverse certain servo channels to get things right.

Shorty54

Sorry to jump in so late, I have the HK T6 Radio, not sure about the one you have, mine is V2. I have the Clark TK22 also, 3 actually,
anyways mine is setup like this,
CH1-CH1 Alieron
CH2-CH3 Elev
CH3-CH2 Throttle
CH4-CH4 Rud
This gives me all drive controls on right stick and all other controls on left, turett, main gun fire, machine gun, lights, start up etc.
You do have to rewire for the elevation recoil unit or it wont work properly. The Sony remote is a must if you ask me. I also found
using Tamiya Battle Units help to. You will have to rewire for the IR and Apple to work properly. You can use the Taigen but it has to be
rewired along with a new IR Emitter. I have a Taigen Tiger 1 Early, Taigen Sherman, and Taigen T34, all on Clark TK22 all with Tamiya Battle units.
Im just finally getting them dialed in.

DHMountainBKR

I will try all suggestions later today, did not get a chance yesterday. Thank you all very much for your help, it is an amazing group!

DHMountainBKR

I switched the receiver cables 2-3 3-2 now throttle is on the left but, the turret sound will not turn off... I trimmed but once the turret sound stops a high pitched tone will not stop.
Argh! will try more testing later.
Question, what settings on the receiver should I be playing with i.e. reverse, subtrim etc...
Thanks again!!!

Max-U52

Try adjusting the trim, it might get the sound to stop. On one of my T6s I have to have a bit of left trim or the turret rotation sound doesn't want to cut out.

DHMountainBKR

I think I am going to explode... argh! I got the programming cable and remote and nothing flashes as it should... OMG this is super frustrating.

Shorty54

Did you install the jumper for programing the TK22?
What Battle Unit (apple) are you using?

Tanker 10

Good luck my friend. I had one that wouldn't program either, it was bad out of the gate. If you haven't done it yet, contact Clark directly. That's what I did. We sent info and videos back and forth and he determined it was a bad board and wanted me to send it to him. At that point I was totally frustrated, and after spending $306.00 for the board and radio from one of his distributors, the board went into the garbage. The DX6i is now hooked to an IBU2 and it works great. I know there are plenty of people who make them work, I just got to the point that the frustration was just too much.

DHMountainBKR

Yes I installed the jumper... none were provided though had to pull some from an old computer. I have a Taigen hop up apple ir battle system.

Tanker 10 I am with you... I am thinking the same thing, totally frustrated at this point. Nothing seems to be working.

YHR

Not sure what you are using as an apple but it must be Tamiya compatible. The stock HL and Taigen apples will not work as the pin out on the IR receiver chip is different.

You need to be sure the Sensor you are using has the following pinout. Anything different will result in LED that won't flash to indicate the programming is actually worklng.

Shorty54

You have to re wire your Apple if you havent yet. You need a Red LED and wire that to your apple. Then You need to wire a IR Emitter LED directly to the Clark TK22. Then when you program and take hits, the Red LED you wired to the apple will blink. Have you done this yet? While you are at it you may want to adjust the IR LED in the mantlet for Tamiya specs if you ever want to battle other tanks. I think its 6mm hole 9mm back form front edge to bulb tip.

After I read this it sounded even more confusing.
Remove the Taigen IR LED, wire in a Red LED and run that up and out the hatch next to your Battle Unit.
Get a new IR Emitter, Tamiya or Clark, I got mine with my Clark TK22s when they sent it to me, PN IR005/IR010.
Install the new IR Emitter in the mantlet and plug it into the J3 port on the Clark.

I hope this is less confusing. If you already done this then disregard.

YHR

First let me say I am not Clark guy, but I have a general Idea on how all of these work. The programming LED is probably triggered from the two LED pins I identified in the image I posted If nothing else you will need to wire up an LED. You will most likely have to wire in a 68 ohm resistor as well. I am not sure if the Clark board lowers the voltage to this pin, so the 68 ohm resistor will protect the LED from over voltage. This LED will then flash as you go through the programming steps and indicate things are being accepted.

The user interface with this board is not friendly, but if you hang in there you will be rewarded when you get to actually use the features it has.