TF FW190 GIANT ARF
#3776
They are working fine, except the following;
Observe, this has nothing to do with Williams wheels per se, it is a general retract problem;
When the wheels are fully retracted and locked try out the following;
Can the wheels still be turned, while inside the wheel well ?
If they can, your plane is still safe. If not, you might get a belly landing.
Reason;
If your wheels cannot be turned, they are probably pushed up against the wheel-well bottom.
That is a problem, because;
In this case, the retracts has used force to push them up against the wheel well, trying to get them into a locked position.
They might be locked, and they might not.
By doing so the retracts has spendt some air, while pushing them into this position. So there is a lesser pressure now in the air bottles.
Lesser air pressure means lesser force. So there is a lesser force to get them "out" again. Somethimes they succeed, somethimes not.
When it is "not", you have a belly landing. I have had 2 or three, until I realised this, and put shims in between the gear and wing.
It happened when I pimped up the wheels with nuts and bolts around the rim; They snagged towards the wheel well bottom.
Observe, this has nothing to do with Williams wheels per se, it is a general retract problem;
When the wheels are fully retracted and locked try out the following;
Can the wheels still be turned, while inside the wheel well ?
If they can, your plane is still safe. If not, you might get a belly landing.
Reason;
If your wheels cannot be turned, they are probably pushed up against the wheel-well bottom.
That is a problem, because;
In this case, the retracts has used force to push them up against the wheel well, trying to get them into a locked position.
They might be locked, and they might not.
By doing so the retracts has spendt some air, while pushing them into this position. So there is a lesser pressure now in the air bottles.
Lesser air pressure means lesser force. So there is a lesser force to get them "out" again. Somethimes they succeed, somethimes not.
When it is "not", you have a belly landing. I have had 2 or three, until I realised this, and put shims in between the gear and wing.
It happened when I pimped up the wheels with nuts and bolts around the rim; They snagged towards the wheel well bottom.
#3777
Senior Member
They are working fine, except the following;
Observe, this has nothing to do with Williams wheels per se, it is a general retract problem;
When the wheels are fully retracted and locked try out the following;
Can the wheels still be turned, while inside the wheel well ?
If they can, your plane is still safe. If not, you might get a belly landing.
Reason;
If your wheels cannot be turned, they are probably pushed up against the wheel-well bottom.
That is a problem, because;
In this case, the retracts has used force to push them up against the wheel well, trying to get them into a locked position.
They might be locked, and they might not.
By doing so the retracts has spendt some air, while pushing them into this position. So there is a lesser pressure now in the air bottles.
Lesser air pressure means lesser force. So there is a lesser force to get them "out" again. Somethimes they succeed, somethimes not.
When it is "not", you have a belly landing. I have had 2 or three, until I realised this, and put shims in between the gear and wing.
It happened when I pimped up the wheels with nuts and bolts around the rim; They snagged towards the wheel well bottom.
Observe, this has nothing to do with Williams wheels per se, it is a general retract problem;
When the wheels are fully retracted and locked try out the following;
Can the wheels still be turned, while inside the wheel well ?
If they can, your plane is still safe. If not, you might get a belly landing.
Reason;
If your wheels cannot be turned, they are probably pushed up against the wheel-well bottom.
That is a problem, because;
In this case, the retracts has used force to push them up against the wheel well, trying to get them into a locked position.
They might be locked, and they might not.
By doing so the retracts has spendt some air, while pushing them into this position. So there is a lesser pressure now in the air bottles.
Lesser air pressure means lesser force. So there is a lesser force to get them "out" again. Somethimes they succeed, somethimes not.
When it is "not", you have a belly landing. I have had 2 or three, until I realised this, and put shims in between the gear and wing.
It happened when I pimped up the wheels with nuts and bolts around the rim; They snagged towards the wheel well bottom.
#3778
So ?
I would think you get other effects on electric mains.......Like; They stop because of overload protection....or whatever.
If it doesnt have overload protection....well, I guess the Robarts do, but in any case, I think it is wise to check this, electric or air.
I would think you get other effects on electric mains.......Like; They stop because of overload protection....or whatever.
If it doesnt have overload protection....well, I guess the Robarts do, but in any case, I think it is wise to check this, electric or air.
#3780
Senior Member
The thing is, whether binding in the up or down direction, the circuits will automatically reset so that the retract will still function in the opposite direction. Nearly impossible to get a strut stuck in partial deployment. The strut will either return to full up or full down in most cases when the gear switch is cycled. When the wheel does bottom out in the wheel well, the system stops & resets for diwn deployment. That's how they work.
Most would agree that the most undesirable situation would be to have 1 or both struts in a partially deployed condition.
#3781
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The point I was trying to make is that properly set up Robart electrics should merely shut off when overload is reached, such as the travel limit or some mechanical issue.
The thing is, whether binding in the up or down direction, the circuits will automatically reset so that the retract will still function in the opposite direction. Nearly impossible to get a strut stuck in partial deployment. The strut will either return to full up or full down in most cases when the gear switch is cycled. When the wheel does bottom out in the wheel well, the system stops & resets for diwn deployment. That's how they work.
Most would agree that the most undesirable situation would be to have 1 or both struts in a partially deployed condition.
The thing is, whether binding in the up or down direction, the circuits will automatically reset so that the retract will still function in the opposite direction. Nearly impossible to get a strut stuck in partial deployment. The strut will either return to full up or full down in most cases when the gear switch is cycled. When the wheel does bottom out in the wheel well, the system stops & resets for diwn deployment. That's how they work.
Most would agree that the most undesirable situation would be to have 1 or both struts in a partially deployed condition.
Yup, I just got one back from repair. The trunion on the right gear broke, I'm assuming on my second flight, because on the third flight, it would not retract all the way up and tripped the overload protection, however, as stated, it extended back out fully. I sent it off, was fixed under warranty, and I was ready to get the FW back in the air yesterday, however, It had other plans.
After being stubborn to start, when I was taxing out, I noticed the left aileron linkage dangling, so no flying it yesterday. I was thoroughly disappointed .I guess it was a just bad soldering job on my part. I fixed it and checked the others, and they all seem very secure. Good thing I saw it on the ground, however time to re-evaluate my pre-flights. Coming back from helis, you'd think I'd know better.
#3782
My Feedback: (1)
The Williams Brothers wheels are a bit heavy, but work well. The plastic is somewhat soft though, make sure you use washers and keep them lubed up a bit. I have a heavy Glassed Top Flite 190 with Sierra gear, and the wheels are at a bit of an angle. During some taxi testing while I was breaking in the new engine one of the axles melted right through the wheel. I added bearings so they should be fine in the future. If you remember this plane from early in this thread, it's the one that Ramstein44 built. Hope to get the test flight done soon this spring. It's quite heavy at 32 lbs, so I'll have to make sure everything is set up correctly. Here's a couple of photos.
#3783
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: quint fonsegrives, FRANCE
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Hi Modeler's,
there a long time now , i haven't time to post here, but i'm back... lol
some of you should know me as i'm the general manager of Lado by e-retract, and we have created a complete kit that could be another choice for you for electric retract system, our retracts are made in hard aeronautical aluminium cut by CNC machining and steel parts this kit got scale angle and could be provided with our electric tailwheel witch is very light as we use our e-doors to actuate it.
like ever , our system is plug and play directly into your receiver and could be supplied from 6v to 2s Lipo battery.
morever, they are digital programmable, so retract sequence can be set into each retract without using a separate connecting board.
if some of you want to speak with me, don't hesitate to PM me or ask here.
some pictures:
we also have the scale retract for the P47 and for the ZERO too.
have a nice fly.
christophe
there a long time now , i haven't time to post here, but i'm back... lol
some of you should know me as i'm the general manager of Lado by e-retract, and we have created a complete kit that could be another choice for you for electric retract system, our retracts are made in hard aeronautical aluminium cut by CNC machining and steel parts this kit got scale angle and could be provided with our electric tailwheel witch is very light as we use our e-doors to actuate it.
like ever , our system is plug and play directly into your receiver and could be supplied from 6v to 2s Lipo battery.
morever, they are digital programmable, so retract sequence can be set into each retract without using a separate connecting board.
if some of you want to speak with me, don't hesitate to PM me or ask here.
some pictures:
we also have the scale retract for the P47 and for the ZERO too.
have a nice fly.
christophe
#3786
My Feedback: (13)
Hi Modeler's,
there a long time now , i haven't time to post here, but i'm back... lol
some of you should know me as i'm the general manager of Lado by e-retract, and we have created a complete kit that could be another choice for you for electric retract system, our retracts are made in hard aeronautical aluminium cut by CNC machining and steel parts this kit got scale angle and could be provided with our electric tailwheel witch is very light as we use our e-doors to actuate it.
like ever , our system is plug and play directly into your receiver and could be supplied from 6v to 2s Lipo battery.
morever, they are digital programmable, so retract sequence can be set into each retract without using a separate connecting board.
if some of you want to speak with me, don't hesitate to PM me or ask here.
some pictures:
we also have the scale retract for the P47 and for the ZERO too.
have a nice fly.
christophe
there a long time now , i haven't time to post here, but i'm back... lol
some of you should know me as i'm the general manager of Lado by e-retract, and we have created a complete kit that could be another choice for you for electric retract system, our retracts are made in hard aeronautical aluminium cut by CNC machining and steel parts this kit got scale angle and could be provided with our electric tailwheel witch is very light as we use our e-doors to actuate it.
like ever , our system is plug and play directly into your receiver and could be supplied from 6v to 2s Lipo battery.
morever, they are digital programmable, so retract sequence can be set into each retract without using a separate connecting board.
if some of you want to speak with me, don't hesitate to PM me or ask here.
some pictures:
we also have the scale retract for the P47 and for the ZERO too.
have a nice fly.
christophe
#3789
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: quint fonsegrives, FRANCE
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i've never let down any modelers since 7 years, the time where we bought the company in california, don't take us for the old owner, we have fullfill all the remaining order that the old owner haven't provide, even if we are not obliged to do that, but as a modeler it's not my phylosophi.
could you mp me t found a solution to your problems?
since we are the new owner, you cannot found anywhere somenone alone with our retracts and we support everyone all around the world, since we got the rules, we have equipped more than 4500 airplanes in electric, and don't forget that if you have electric retract now, it's because Lado exist, we have created this product.
@SWORDSN: yes you have one servo cable for one retract, then you plug it into your receiver and that's all, it's like having 3 more servo's into your model.
@Steph69: as write before, we have equipped more than 4500 airplane with our electric system, and if the electric retract system exist today , it's because someday Doug, the old owner of the company have created the system that we found now everywhere ( i mean survey the consumtion of the motor to cut it when the locking point is touch)
we have already equipped many many FW190 with our kit.
you can also take a look at this picture , it's for the ZERO topflite:
Scale isn't it?
rgds
christophe
#3794
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Dumfries, Scotland, UK
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Hi Slembones,
i've never let down any modelers since 7 years, the time where we bought the company in california, don't take us for the old owner, we have fullfill all the remaining order that the old owner haven't provide, even if we are not obliged to do that, but as a modeler it's not my phylosophi.
could you mp me t found a solution to your problems?
since we are the new owner, you cannot found anywhere somenone alone with our retracts and we support everyone all around the world, since we got the rules, we have equipped more than 4500 airplanes in electric, and don't forget that if you have electric retract now, it's because Lado exist, we have created this product.
@SWORDSN: yes you have one servo cable for one retract, then you plug it into your receiver and that's all, it's like having 3 more servo's into your model.
@Steph69: as write before, we have equipped more than 4500 airplane with our electric system, and if the electric retract system exist today , it's because someday Doug, the old owner of the company have created the system that we found now everywhere ( i mean survey the consumtion of the motor to cut it when the locking point is touch)
we have already equipped many many FW190 with our kit.
you can also take a look at this picture , it's for the ZERO topflite:
Scale isn't it?
rgds
christophe
i've never let down any modelers since 7 years, the time where we bought the company in california, don't take us for the old owner, we have fullfill all the remaining order that the old owner haven't provide, even if we are not obliged to do that, but as a modeler it's not my phylosophi.
could you mp me t found a solution to your problems?
since we are the new owner, you cannot found anywhere somenone alone with our retracts and we support everyone all around the world, since we got the rules, we have equipped more than 4500 airplanes in electric, and don't forget that if you have electric retract now, it's because Lado exist, we have created this product.
@SWORDSN: yes you have one servo cable for one retract, then you plug it into your receiver and that's all, it's like having 3 more servo's into your model.
@Steph69: as write before, we have equipped more than 4500 airplane with our electric system, and if the electric retract system exist today , it's because someday Doug, the old owner of the company have created the system that we found now everywhere ( i mean survey the consumtion of the motor to cut it when the locking point is touch)
we have already equipped many many FW190 with our kit.
you can also take a look at this picture , it's for the ZERO topflite:
Scale isn't it?
rgds
christophe
#3795
My Feedback: (48)
FYI: Just a note to those using the EME70 with starter. Both of mine had the same problem with intermediate spur gear in the starter system at initial start. The motor started to turn over in proper direction, then the gears simply spun free.
The small gear that drives the crank gear is a press fit into the larger gear driven by the starter pinion gear. The spur gear failed allowing the starter to spin free and not turn the motor. A friend of mine simply re-pressed the small gear in place and silver soldered the head seam on bolt side of larger gear. If your starter spins free it will more than likely be this spur gear and not the crankshaft gear coming loose or failing.
I have two of these with starters and I love them and are my engine of choice for any future project. Just passing on info.
The small gear that drives the crank gear is a press fit into the larger gear driven by the starter pinion gear. The spur gear failed allowing the starter to spin free and not turn the motor. A friend of mine simply re-pressed the small gear in place and silver soldered the head seam on bolt side of larger gear. If your starter spins free it will more than likely be this spur gear and not the crankshaft gear coming loose or failing.
I have two of these with starters and I love them and are my engine of choice for any future project. Just passing on info.
Last edited by dmyers0403; 05-08-2015 at 02:36 PM.
#3798
Senior Member
#3799
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: SECUNDAMpumalanga, SOUTH AFRICA
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Hi.
If I buy the FA-300T-TDP I still have to buy the gas conversion kit.
For that amount of money I could just as well buy the Saito FG-57TS motor.
But I am confused as some people mention problems with the FG-57TS and the FG-84R motors.
Then sometimes I think to just go with the DLE 55RA.
I can also use the DLE 55 in more planes than the Saito motors if the FW-190 gets _)(*)(&^*^% lol..................
If I buy the FA-300T-TDP I still have to buy the gas conversion kit.
For that amount of money I could just as well buy the Saito FG-57TS motor.
But I am confused as some people mention problems with the FG-57TS and the FG-84R motors.
Then sometimes I think to just go with the DLE 55RA.
I can also use the DLE 55 in more planes than the Saito motors if the FW-190 gets _)(*)(&^*^% lol..................