GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
#9954
Ive actually been making bits of progress lately. Got the fuse bottom all sheeted and started sanding it. Still have to finish off the tail blocks and alot more sanding so i can lay up the tail wheel doors. I can see many hours of sanding in my near future. Lol.
#9956
My Feedback: (6)
Well both of you are to funny you will have nice strong arms.
A little progress on my repair, got the new cowl fitted with fwd baffle and dummy engine washed the F/G with soap and warm water, wiped it with alcohol sanded the cowl with 220 primed it than dropped it and a big chip of primmer popped off figured no big deal tried to feather the edges and more popped of, ended up with the whole cowl cleaned off. Baaa Hum Bug Don't ask. did the sanding all most to the cloth and now have it primed again, but due to the difference in color I will have to reprime the rest of the bird, so now sanding the primer again for recoat new color, so may put it on the shelf till after flying season is all most over.
That the latest from fly over land Men-e-sota
Cheers Bob T
A little progress on my repair, got the new cowl fitted with fwd baffle and dummy engine washed the F/G with soap and warm water, wiped it with alcohol sanded the cowl with 220 primed it than dropped it and a big chip of primmer popped off figured no big deal tried to feather the edges and more popped of, ended up with the whole cowl cleaned off. Baaa Hum Bug Don't ask. did the sanding all most to the cloth and now have it primed again, but due to the difference in color I will have to reprime the rest of the bird, so now sanding the primer again for recoat new color, so may put it on the shelf till after flying season is all most over.
That the latest from fly over land Men-e-sota
Cheers Bob T
#9957
thats a real bummer Bob. Kind of reminds me of when i did my Sea Fury. No sooner did i put the last coat of paint on, i dropped it covering it with dirt and what ever else you can think of. Like you, I had to sand it back down to the cloth and start over. I feel your pain.
#9959
So, im sitting here pondering. Trying to think 7 steps ahead, and im wondering how the heck ill ever get in to maintain the rear elevator connections if the need arises. Have you guys been burrying them? Im not so sure i feel comfortable with that. Ill make a removable hatch to access them in the future.
#9962
My Feedback: (6)
One other thing when we did the post mortem on my first Corsair I found that the balsa hole ware the rod goes into the elevators was sloppy, so when I built my current corsair I got some brass tubing that just fit the rod and lined the holes both elevators and the rudder.
Cheers Bob T
Cheers Bob T
#9963
Good idea Bob. Im getting there. All the sheeting is done, the belly pan is done. Alittle more work on the tail and the fuse is done. After that, the only actual building that remains is the flaps then its on to phase 2. The finishing phase. Ill post some pics in a few.
#9965
Well, I decided to just make the connections permanent and seal up the tail. Both stabs are installed and aligned, elevators run freely. And there's only one more block to glue on to the back and I can start shaping and sanding. Yay. I did do a couple hours of sanding, but in the scheme of things, I really didn't do much. Lol. Plenty more to come. My goal, weather I meet it or not, I don't care, is to glass this weekend. Like I said, could be just dreaming, but goals keep me motivated. All in all, I'm happy with how it's coming. Much happier than my first Corsair build. Not sure how that flew as good as it did. Lol. Major items left before finishing are;
1. Build and install flaps
2. Hinge rudder
3. Wing tips
and oh yeah, almost forgot, I was debating on a sliding canopy as the top of the fuse was already sheeted, and was leaning away from it, but now I notice that there's no backing behind the seam of the top turtle deck sheet and I don't like the way it flexes, so that sheet is coming off. Might as well add a sliding canopy to the list. Yeah, maybe glass NEXT weekend. Lol. Here's what I got so far.
1. Build and install flaps
2. Hinge rudder
3. Wing tips
and oh yeah, almost forgot, I was debating on a sliding canopy as the top of the fuse was already sheeted, and was leaning away from it, but now I notice that there's no backing behind the seam of the top turtle deck sheet and I don't like the way it flexes, so that sheet is coming off. Might as well add a sliding canopy to the list. Yeah, maybe glass NEXT weekend. Lol. Here's what I got so far.
#9966
My Feedback: (6)
Steve
Looking good. I did notic you don't have to hinge pin holes in the trailing edge for the flaps, So if you have excess to a drill press, make a block of hard wood oak maple to fit the trailing spar edge and one to fit the radius on the flaps, then position in the drill press so you get a hole that goes into the wing at about 40 deg's and if you are going to use robart hinge pins you want the hinge pivit below and aft of the spar and lower surfice. if you need a sketch of this I can make and post, by doing it this way you get nice free moving flaps. as I have mine apart right know I may just post a pic of the way the pins stick out. I DID NOT FIND THAT THE INSTRUCTION ON PG 40 step 13 worked for me flaps would not work free and would not go to 45 deg's down let me know
hope this all makes sense
Cheers Bob T
Looking good. I did notic you don't have to hinge pin holes in the trailing edge for the flaps, So if you have excess to a drill press, make a block of hard wood oak maple to fit the trailing spar edge and one to fit the radius on the flaps, then position in the drill press so you get a hole that goes into the wing at about 40 deg's and if you are going to use robart hinge pins you want the hinge pivit below and aft of the spar and lower surfice. if you need a sketch of this I can make and post, by doing it this way you get nice free moving flaps. as I have mine apart right know I may just post a pic of the way the pins stick out. I DID NOT FIND THAT THE INSTRUCTION ON PG 40 step 13 worked for me flaps would not work free and would not go to 45 deg's down let me know
hope this all makes sense
Cheers Bob T
#9968
Thanks guys. Bob, im pretty sure i follow what your saying, but a pic or sketch would definately be appreciated. I think i remember having the same issue with my last Corsair build.
#9969
Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mohnton,
PA
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Looking good Steve. I have the same fears about one day needing access to the elevator links in the back but mine are getting buried as well.
Bob, I would like to see pics of your flap set up. I haven't gotten to that part yet and it will likely be last on the list
thanks
Bob, I would like to see pics of your flap set up. I haven't gotten to that part yet and it will likely be last on the list
thanks
#9970
Well, sticking with the theme of this build, its one step forward and two steps back. I hinged the rudder, which was already built and shaped when i bought this half built kit, and its just wrong. if i center it in the neutral position, the balance tab on top is way off. I could sand one side and build up the other but it will look like poop. The center wouldnt be center. Aww rats. Well, At least now i could do the more scale rudder. Just as i thought i was nearing the finishing phase...
#9973
Steve, if i remember correctly you did Chads rudder mods. How did you go about printing the plans? Kinkos? or something similar? Ive been sitting here trying to print it out at home and cant figure out how to get it right. I dont know. I may just build it according to the TF plans and just change the shape a little to look more scale. Not that i dont want the "real deal", but unless i re did both stabs and the elevators to match it probably wouldnt look right anyway.