Old Erkki

Greetings from Finland

Nice to hear that you are building Finnish version.

If you build G2 version have you already decided if it is standard German gamo or Finnish black/green/light blue version? And there is also one more option for those overhauled MT:s wing standard German gamo and fuselage totally dark grey.

Old Erkki

21onen

Hei Old Erkki!
Good question. I was not aware the paint scheme on the wings changed to solid gray once the planes had been overhauled at the depot. I actually have two Me-109's on the go so one will be in the German gray camo and the other will be in the Finnish green black light blue camo. Here is a pic of a 1/5 scale model that i took when I was in Finland in 92 . I did have one of Matti Patteri's glass fuses for the G6 but never got to build it. The one in the photo has the Galland hood and a ST 3000. One thing else if I go the G2 route is the wheels. Glennis makes both the spoked and solid wheel but I need to know if they make both in 41/2 diameter. Sunshine models in Germany have some nice spoked wheels but are not easy to get ahold of right now. I hope to find something in Toledo this friday.
Thanks all. Tero T

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

Which retracts did you use. She looks great!

21onen

HI Manfred!
That plane picturered is not mine. That was taken at a museum located near the Helsinki airport. I did have the same fuse made by a fellow in Finland . I had retracts made by a company called Innovative out of Texas. I don't know what happened to them . I know the 1/5 scale me-109's this fellow was building had shaft extensions on some versions so the head of the ST 3000 sat further back in the chin scoop. He made only a handful of the planes . The retracts I am building into my CMP 109's are Sierra . These are the ones that were designed for the KMP Me-109. Tero T

Evil_Merlin

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Innovative Model Products: IMPScale.com

Greg is still around, and still selling plans. Kits are getting harder for him to make as balsa supplies are getting short.

21onen

I was in Toledo in early April and came upon a table run by Airman Wheels out of West Viginia. Airman Wheels makes some amazing aluminum rimmed wheels and his product was pretty darn close to the Me-109 F style wheel . A week after the show I contact Rex Chapman the owner of Airman Wheels (www.airmanwheels.com) to see if it would be possible to make a 6 spoke aluminum rim. I supplied him with some pics of the F style wheel and away he went. Several weeks later Rex had come up with the program to make these wheels. Please note his wheels are immaculate and with bearings. One spin and these wheels will keep spinning for minutes at a time. His standard wheel is 4 3/8 diameter and it comes with a ribbed tire. I had an extra set of ME-109G6 style plastic wheels (Sunshine Models in Germany) and he took the rubber off those, machined them and installed them on his rims. Work perfectly. The width of his wheels are 1" and the cost is $109 .00 per set. I did a quick analysis of the various wheels for weight comparison and attached some pics. I also painted one of Rex's rims black so you can see the spoke profile better as in the polished aluminum it is a bit difficult to see. The black rim has the Sunshine Germany rubber tire on it. It brings the diameter up to 4 1/2 inches. I did have at one time the first generation Glennis wheels but I know longer own them so I could not put a set in for comparison. For ultimate scale the Glennis would be the pick for an F model but the Airman wheels would come a close second in my opinion. If Rex could come up with a injection molded smooth foam wheel that was more like the original then it be an excellent solution . For now he has just the ribbed tire but will accomodate you if you have other tires to put on. The service was excellent.
Please note that I am remaking my wing for the CMP ME-109 with hot wire cut foam outer panels so that I can place the wheel in the proper location and thus I can accomodate the thicker 1" tire.
I hope this gives you some other options. Regards Tero T in Toronto

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

do you have a link for sunshine wheels

21onen

Hi LDM!
Dealing with Wega Sunshine was a bit difficult at first as it took time to figure out what were there procedures. First I do not believe they ship models overseas because of box sizes but smaller parts do not seem to be a problem. At First they said they took all credit cards but in reality I think Visa was the only one that they take (AMEX has one extra number in its card ). I tried to purchase over the email but it was getting difficult so I signed in and registered. Now here is the one problem. When you register it will come up asking for which country you live in . All European countries were listed but not North America. Over the email they did say they would ship the wheels to North America. So since I am dual citizen (Canada, Finland) I used Finland as the country and put my Canadian Address in . Also a box for further instruction was where I stated that item was to ship to Canada and not Finland. Their web site is http://www.wega-sunshine.de/ and the contact was a Frau Ginzel who was very helpful. Her email is [email protected] . I like the wheels as the hub looks reasonably scale to the G6 models. The tire though is a foam donut(skinned) that is butt joined with glue. The joint can be disguised with a bit of painting of the perpendicular tread lines and should work. The cost was $69.00 Euros . Hope this helps. Regards Tero T

P.S I did post in their comments section that in this Global world we live in that they should include North America in their registration.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Tero, Thanks for the post very very helpful

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I'm not new to the ARF world or building models from scratch. I writing this post only to inform others that the quality of this ARF is lacking compared to Great Planes or Aeroworks.
Yes I paid only $259.00 USD for it but it is not something a average modeler should invest in. Today I started construction and found that both flap structures were missing one hinge point not drilled out. This also applied to the trailing edge of the wing were the flaps mount too. I corrected these problems and ended my building session for today. In addition to the problems with the wing structure I also noted after inspecting the suppied hinge points, five (5) had defectives hinge pins. The pins were not flared properly and eventually would cause seperation of the hinge points. I substituted these hinges with Robart assemblies. I'll keep on posting until this project is completely.

PS: I orignally was going to purchase the ESM 109 but I did not want to wait until the end of August.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

flycatch , in reality many do not use any of the hardware and for $259 you would not touch this plane at Great Planes , would probably be $359 .
As you know as a builder , these kits needs mods but as a builder its really not a challenge to tweek and make it your own

Oosiksmith

My Feedback: (1)

LDM,

I don't know....drilling out hinge points, even for an "average modeler," is extremely difficult. Just one hinge point could take days or even weeks! The math alone to figure out where to drill might need a supecomputer.

Have building skills gotten so bad that the simple mods needed to make any ARF better is now a challenge? Sheesh. Every ARF I've ever owned I've had to modify in some way.

Tim

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Tim , all I can say is LOL I guess everything is what we make of it

SCALECRAFT

My Feedback: (13)

I believe I was one of the first to fly one of these as sold out of the box other than spinner back plate (out of alum with original spinner) . (Search youtube, CMP 109)

None of the parts have failed yet. I have purchased another one to modify. Not done yet.

(I'm distracted by the BVM F-16 I just got for my turbine!)

Steve

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

The flap radiator feature as designed for the original aircraft present unique problems for the scale application. How do you set-up the geometry on the servo wheel to allow the lower flap to to reach 40 degress downward and the upper flap not to exceed 10 degress of upward travel? I'm using a slider on my JR 9303 to achieve the upward and downward travel.

The real BF109 used 40 degrees of flap for landing and 20 degress for take off. Can I set the plane up with these positions. My research also indicates that flaps were most always used for takeoff and landings. This will be my first plane using flaps on a low wing model that should weigh in at 15 pounds.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

kahloq

I used separate servos for the lower radiator flap portion relative to the upper portion. That made it easy to set whatever deflection you wanted independant of the other.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

That's a good way however I want to stay with one servo.

Please explain how you set up the electonics in the transmitter.

marcoferretti

This is how I diit with just one servo.
just get the 6 poins horn and plug your linkage on two adjecent horns and cut away the unused.
Hope the drawing is self explaining.
When the servo turns clockwise, the linkage on the bottom will have plenty of travel and the the one on top will have very little.
With this setup I achieve almost 45° on the bottom flap and less than 20 on the upper.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Leave to the fellow pizano to figure it out , from one Itilian to another great job

LDM

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Flycatch , FYI I have always used slight flaps on takeoff on my heavy warbirds . I fly off a very bumpy field and found that my takeoffs need less power and I can ease into flight vs having to use the power to get over the bumps and risking getting off the ground too soon

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Thank you for the informative information. What you display in the drawing is differential and exactly what my inquiry was all about. Excellent solution to the problem.

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

As mentioned in a previous post I said I would comment on discrepancies found during construction of this ARF. These are my findings when mating the wing and stabilizer to the fuselage.

1. Wing joiner tube had to be resized to fit within wing tubes.

2. The belly pan fairing needed extensize modification to seat properly on the wing halfs.

3. The 4mm TNuts required resizing using a Tap.

4. Both left and right stabilizers required modification to seat flush with airframe.

5. The navigation lens covers were molded oversized.

kahloq

Building yet another CMP Me-109. Last one has an e-flite power 160 on 10s 5000 spinning 15.75x13 3 blade. Looks nice....but only flies for 5 mins.
This third one will have a turnigy 5065-270kv spinning a 20x10 turnigy wood prop or an 18x12 turnigy wood prop(ground clearance) on 8s 5000.
Testing on a different plane of the same size and weight with that power setup has given me about 8+ min flight times at half throttle with the batteries not even being warm after the flight. At full throttle, she can pull out of a hover...so im not lacking for power at all with that setup.
I have also just recently finished my 2nd ESM ME-109E using a similar power setup. It has an e-flite power 110 on 8s 5000 spinning a 20x10.
My first ESM ME-109 currently still has a saito 180 in it spinning a graupner 16x8x3.
Anyhow...for giggles....heres the most recent ESM ME-109

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

Nice looking ARF. How does the ESM compare to the CMP quality wise. I orginally was going to purchase the ESM but the delivery date was late July. Since you have already flown the CMP version can you share your take-off and landing techniques. This model should have a wing loading approaching 39 oz per square foot.

kahloq

My CMP ME-109's all weighed about 16 pounds so far. Those using a glow motor had weights about 14 pounds dry.
Its not much different then most warbirds for take off. Ease into the throttle and feed in right rudder. Depending on your CG, if you DONT change the landing gear location to be slightly more forward(which requires a lot of work), you may have to be careful you dont nose over on take off. So..keep elevator enough to prevent that. I had my CG on the 1st one at 108mm and the 2nd one at 110mm. The 2nd one is much easier to have a smooth take off rollout...but i did shim the gear forward. Im using the Sierra Giant scale gear designed for the stock gear placement with only a minor shim.

For landing, I would feed in half flaps on the downwind leg prior to baking around for final approach. once i was lined up with the runway, Id add in full flaps(if the wind wasnt blowing much). As long as you keep the nose more or less slightly down, the plane "floats" along quite well on the downslope glide plath. I dont wanna say floats too much because you dont wanna cut the power till your at least over the threshold and maybe a couple feet off the ground. She doesnt feel ehavy when landing, even at 16 pounds. I did NOT have the upper inner radiator flaps deployed and have never done so while the plane was in the air. Remember, I have separate servos for those. If running both the bottom and top radiator flaps via one servo....you will probably need to keep your speed up a little more then I do because the upper flaps deployed upwards will cause more drag and will also try to push the plane down some.

I wouldnt recommend landing the plane without flaps at all unless there was a decent 6+mph headwind.