SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

And more You can see the crack in this pic

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks for posting the pictures, I get my Jtec Muffler back from the Welding Shop today, with the Modifications; I will try and post some pictures this evening.

RiverLarry

Dasintex !!! cant wait to see what you have done

swordsn !!!!Hay are the cracks on a seam or just every where cant tell from pic.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Here are some Photos of the Modifications I made to my Jtec P-40 Wrap Around Pitts Muffler. 1st Photo is Overall Picture; 2nd shows the Support Strap that gets bolted between the Engine Mounting Bolt and Lug.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Some more Photos; 1st Photo shows a Brace between the two exhaust Tubes; 2nd Photo shows the Brace welded between the Rectangular Manifold and the Muffler. I will post a Photo showing Muffler mounted on my Engine and Plane.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Photos of Modified Jtec Muffler mounted on Engine; I have to run the engine, re-tighten the exhaust bolts when they are warm and put the Lockable Wires through the bolt heads, not shown are the holes I drilled through the Bolt heads. Hopefully these modifications will keep the Muffler from Vibrating Loose and stop any cracks from developing.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

They are on the seams..... It is hard to see in the pictures.. I need a new camera.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Man that looks beefy now. If that doesn't work I don't what will!!!

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Thats what I'm thinking; if it fails, and I don't see how now, but if it does, I will go with a Slimline and get my Welding Shop to modify it so I don't have to cut a relief hole in the Cowl.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Yeah! I hated doing that

RiverLarry

Dasintex looks good the strap to the stand off is a +

when thay polish the seams it takes away thay should of left it R/L

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

2 years later and I Finally Finished my P-40; Final Weight is 23.8lbs; to balance, I was pleasantly suprised that it only took 1oz of extra weight in the tail, now for the maiden flight, hopefully the weather will cooperate in the next couple of weeks.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I was able to balance mine by placing the receiver battery just behind the wing.

RiverLarry

O K I new better ( BUT) I cant find my spacers for my DLE 55

My QT. is I will make a new one and only 1 SO how thick is the 2 we should use !!!!

AND any idea how many OZ servo to use on air valve for robart retract ????

I have all SPK. A 6020 all around and A 6010 for the T on the DLE

and has any body have any thought on 6 .6 V 123 batt. will use a BEC R/L

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I believe the spacers are about 1/8 thick I will measure and get back to you. Any standard servo will work for the air valve but a mini servo will fit better

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

They are slightly less than 1/8,but I think 1/8 will work. Hope that helps.

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

I use Hitec 82MGas I got a ton laying around it dose not take a lot of power for the retract mec to work.

Hey Dasintex How much did that cost ya?

You going into a side buss were we can send our new ones to you for your mods?

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

I wish I had that much free time that I could have a side business; heck, as it was, it took 2 years to finish my P-40!

The Muffler Modification cost me $60, and that was for the welding, I had supplied the Aluminum braces; if only I knew someone that welded Aluminum it would have been a lot cheaper; I could have got clever and managed to attach the bracing with self tapping screws or drilled and tapped threads for bolts, etc; however, I didn't know how thick the material was, and when I asked JTEC, they didn't tell me, but they told me it wasn't nessessary, it would void the warranty, yada-yada; the other issue I had with using screws/bolts, was that I was sure they would probably vibrate loose, so I figured welding was the only way to go, I am extremely pleased with the end results, some will say my modifications were overdone, but I don't look at it that way, better safe than sorry, right!

RiverLarry

Thanks Swordsn I have some 1/4 should be close !!!

I have a hs 65 mg I will use Thanks R/L

I dont ck often need to PM ME Thanks

RiverLarry

For a weld job like that it would be $30.00 but then you have shipping cant win !!! R/L

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

I'm waiting to maiden my P-40; a quick question on cooling; I'm running a DLE55, the only holes I have cut in the Cowl are 2 round holes on the bottom of the cowl that the exhaust tubes exit through; is the open Cowl Flap area at the Rear Bottom of the Cowl sufficient for Cooling?

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Yes I have about the same with about 25 flights and no over heating issues

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Two things to consider, with the narrow main gear she wants to ground loop when landing,be ready on the rudder. Second, the wheel covers supplied are to light weight. One came of completely and one is cracked.

RiverLarry

Dasintex I think I am with you !!!

2 years mite be the way it goes on my P 40

there is a lot going on with this build first time retrac that pull pull tail got me P/O

4 cables 1 servo and big hands I have took it apart 4 times need to order more cable ( 50 ft ) should do it

the little wood blocks for the servo %@#$^&* let just say even pre drill and thay all split ( REDO )

never say never I have not taken the BFHto it yet R/L

jblloyd

My Feedback: (17)

I have to say that I too had a lot of trouble getting my big hands down into the fuselage trying to connect all the pull-pull stuff. I came up with a solution you may want to try. Instead of running the wire cables for the tail wheel, I used a nyrod with a clevis on each end. The nyrod fits perfectly in the existing tubes. Then go ahead and hook up the pull-pull cables to the rudder as the manual shows.