Solartex covering
10-24-2014, 12:07 PM
#1
Solartex covering
Building a AMR kit and going to cover it with solartex. Years ago I used solartex and I remember having to use (I think it was called) stikit to cover all the wood parts before covering. Do you still have to use that stuff or have they improved solartex glue. Covering over lite ply and balsa mostly
10-24-2014, 04:58 PM
#3
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I never bothered with it either, the trick to getting any covering to stick is to clean off all the balsa dust then there is no problem. If you want to you can just spray the surfaces with lacquer hair spray and it sticks better but why bother. I spray with air then use a tack cloth to remove the dust.
10-25-2014, 05:09 AM
#6
I'm in agreement with the rest. No adhesive is required.
To make myself feel better, I do as Gray Beard suggests, and spray on a light coat of lacquer based hair spray.
To make myself feel better, I do as Gray Beard suggests, and spray on a light coat of lacquer based hair spray.
10-25-2014, 05:15 AM
#7
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I've used Solartex for over 25 years and never had to add any extra adhesive. And still have 2 planes that old that I fly. I suspect you are remembering another brand of cloth covering. It's very good stuff...
10-25-2014, 09:25 AM
#9
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Never bothered with it.on cover it one guy smartly said use aqua hair spray.yes it helped.but my last plane was just applied to well sanded and clean balsa.just do not have dust on it make surfaces are clean.sorry solartex.
10-25-2014, 10:26 AM
#10
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Another thing is the future, the guy that built my pattern plane used something on the sheeting before covering back in 89 and now I can't get the old covering off, not even with high heat. I finally gave up and tossed it in the corner for a winter project when I have nothing better to do. A little hair spray is OK if there is any doubt.
10-25-2014, 10:30 AM
#11
Like most everyone else stated, no problems getting it to adhere beautifully to clean, dust-free wood. I find it even sticks relatively well to fiberglass (such as when using wing center-line reinforcement tape). I find I have to use a SLIGHTLY higher temperature setting for the initial tack-down, than the directions suggest (but maybe that is just an inaccurate covering iron thermometer). I find that covering the wing, then leaving it alone for 24 - 48 hours is best . . . that is when most any of the bubbles that are going to surface will appear. I then go over it a final time to eliminate those air pockets/bubbles. Then you should be good to go with painting or any other work you wish to complete.
Additionally:
- If I am going to paint over this covering, I like to run thin CA at the seams and quickly wipe it up to permanently seal up the edges.
- I have found that when I make relief cuts to go around curved surfaces (such as around a wingtip) that sealing the overlapping layers of covering with CA has another unanticipated benefit: The overlapping layers become hard (similar to fiberglass and epoxy), and I am able to sand the overlapping layers relatively smooth, making a much less visible seam - largely hidden after paint. Just don't get too aggressive and sand through your bottom layer.
By far, my favorite covering material to use!
Additionally:
- If I am going to paint over this covering, I like to run thin CA at the seams and quickly wipe it up to permanently seal up the edges.
- I have found that when I make relief cuts to go around curved surfaces (such as around a wingtip) that sealing the overlapping layers of covering with CA has another unanticipated benefit: The overlapping layers become hard (similar to fiberglass and epoxy), and I am able to sand the overlapping layers relatively smooth, making a much less visible seam - largely hidden after paint. Just don't get too aggressive and sand through your bottom layer.
By far, my favorite covering material to use!
Last edited by Iron Dog; 10-25-2014 at 11:44 AM.
10-25-2014, 01:18 PM
#12
All good info here, the only thing I might add is to reinforce what was already said about applying it to clean, dust free wood. Running a vacuum over your project just isn't enough, it's a good start, but to get the wood clean use some compressed air after vacuuming, you will see much more dust get blown off! I have used it on nearly all of my projects and I've never had a problem with it lifting...
10-25-2014, 02:29 PM
#13
My Feedback: (-1)
Also, about cutting it to go around a compound curve, I have never had to, you can just turn the iron heat up a lot higher and keep the iron just over the top of the covering and pull it around any curve without leaving any wrinkles. I have also never had bubbles, it's a cloth weave and gas escapes it as it goes on.
I usually cover during the summer months and do something I call curing. After the covering is fully shrunk I take the plane out in the direct sun and heat and let it sit outside for over an hour. This will cause the covering to sag. I do this with plastic covering too. Then I take it back in the shop and shrink it again. I do this several times until it no longer sags. Then I can paint or add decals or do the trim work.
Winter this doesn't work so well, like at all. We only have a few months of cold weather so this works well for me.
I usually cover during the summer months and do something I call curing. After the covering is fully shrunk I take the plane out in the direct sun and heat and let it sit outside for over an hour. This will cause the covering to sag. I do this with plastic covering too. Then I take it back in the shop and shrink it again. I do this several times until it no longer sags. Then I can paint or add decals or do the trim work.
Winter this doesn't work so well, like at all. We only have a few months of cold weather so this works well for me.
10-25-2014, 03:26 PM
#14
Not so sure you're not thinking of Sig's "Cover-All" it's a heat shrinkable rayon product and you have to use "Stix-It" to adhere it to the frame, after which you can use a heat gun or iron to shrink it. If you're doing a gasser you can use "Nitrate Dope" as the sealer but glow would require "Butyrate Dope". I am covering a John Tanzer F4B in Coverall. You might want to consider it. Just my two cents! It's also a whole lot cheaper than solar-tex.
Happy Flying!
Loopman
Happy Flying!
Loopman
10-25-2014, 04:16 PM
#15
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Solartex is the best covering, notwithstanding a slight weight penalty. But on warbirds and scalers, you just can't beat it. Clean off the dust, nothing else needed, we all agree.
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10-26-2014, 03:02 AM
#17
For any "tex" covering, including Koverite and Stitts, I don't see seams as a problem.
These coverings are mostly used on scale models. on scale models, I add rib and perimiter tapes, that cover the seams.
A friend sells these http://www.pink-it.net/new_pink-it_2012_003.htm, but there are other products on the market, too.
These coverings are mostly used on scale models. on scale models, I add rib and perimiter tapes, that cover the seams.
A friend sells these http://www.pink-it.net/new_pink-it_2012_003.htm, but there are other products on the market, too.
