Aquacraft Mini Rio
07-09-2008, 07:21 AM
#451
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
Why do people use other online sources to host their pictures? It is very easy to upload them to RCU and they will be there much longer than any picture hosting site. Not to mention the fact that you won't have to click a link and wait for another page to load with the picture.
Many times I have gone through old threads and wanted to look at some of the pictures that everyone was talking about in the thread, only to find that the picture hosting site had removed the pictures, probably due to the fact that the person let their account expire. Alot of the time the site was photobucket.
Many times I have gone through old threads and wanted to look at some of the pictures that everyone was talking about in the thread, only to find that the picture hosting site had removed the pictures, probably due to the fact that the person let their account expire. Alot of the time the site was photobucket.
07-09-2008, 10:55 AM
#452
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
Well, i still haven't found a great place, I was out at Sprague Lake at the boat ramp. There is a little pond in Post Falls too. Fish Lake seems like it would be good, other then that I really don't know where to go. I am still charging the packs for the other boat, he said to slow charge them the first few times, it has been 13 hours now for the first pack, this isn't going to work well camping this weekend. Maybe no Super Vee for the trip. I bought a Octura Y534 prop, is this one going to work?
07-09-2008, 04:05 PM
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
Yea, I was running the stock battery. After about 5 minutes though it got really hot. I dont think its made to pull more amps. Im gonna order up some elite 1500's to run. I dont really wanna go lipo its already hard to control. Cant imagine it with less weight. 
Hey you should come down to the river some time its pretty calm down their right under Beacon Hill.
Hey you should come down to the river some time its pretty calm down their right under Beacon Hill.
07-10-2008, 12:29 AM
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
Well, the Octura Y534 prop wasn't a good idea, over propped. Planed in a second, but seemed like the motor had a hard time pushing it, run time was very bad, and battery and motor was hot.
07-10-2008, 02:32 PM
#457
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
ORIGINAL: Mauromj
Yea, I was running the stock battery. After about 5 minutes though it got really hot. I dont think its made to pull more amps. Im gonna order up some elite 1500's to run. I dont really wanna go lipo its already hard to control. Cant imagine it with less weight. Hey you should come down to the river some time its pretty calm down their right under Beacon Hill.
Yea, I was running the stock battery. After about 5 minutes though it got really hot. I dont think its made to pull more amps. Im gonna order up some elite 1500's to run. I dont really wanna go lipo its already hard to control. Cant imagine it with less weight.
Hey you should come down to the river some time its pretty calm down their right under Beacon Hill.
07-11-2008, 12:42 AM
#459
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
ORIGINAL: Mauromj
I thought the same thing untill I ran it. I thought it would get really hot but it stayed nice and cool.
I thought the same thing untill I ran it. I thought it would get really hot but it stayed nice and cool.
07-12-2008, 04:52 PM
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
ORIGINAL: Chuck E. Cheese
i ran side by side with the ammo boat today, exact same set up except motor and esc and they were neck and neck. for this boat i'll save the $35 and build my mini-v also. dont get me wrong, my fast one is an ammo 24-45-2900 but this one worked well on both 2 and 3 cells (i was supprised for a $30 motor and esc combo). i will admidt that the cheap motor did get a little hotter with 3 cells, but still cool by electric motor standards due to the cooling coils.
another worthwile tip is to cut about 3/4" off the stuffing tube at the propeller side (about 1/2 of what sticks out of the hull) and run right side rudder only. i tried this in an attempt to get it to turn better (shorter wheelbase thing) which it didnt, but it did create a better ride angle and when i downsized to a y431 prop it was alot smoother ride on 3 cells. this didnt seem to make a difference with 2 cells and 2 rudders.
i ran side by side with the ammo boat today, exact same set up except motor and esc and they were neck and neck. for this boat i'll save the $35 and build my mini-v also. dont get me wrong, my fast one is an ammo 24-45-2900 but this one worked well on both 2 and 3 cells (i was supprised for a $30 motor and esc combo). i will admidt that the cheap motor did get a little hotter with 3 cells, but still cool by electric motor standards due to the cooling coils.
another worthwile tip is to cut about 3/4" off the stuffing tube at the propeller side (about 1/2 of what sticks out of the hull) and run right side rudder only. i tried this in an attempt to get it to turn better (shorter wheelbase thing) which it didnt, but it did create a better ride angle and when i downsized to a y431 prop it was alot smoother ride on 3 cells. this didnt seem to make a difference with 2 cells and 2 rudders.
07-13-2008, 09:27 AM
#465
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
ORIGINAL: monsterbrad
All you guys that are running this boat
Is it pretty good out of the box and how reliable is the engine?
All you guys that are running this boat
Is it pretty good out of the box and how reliable is the engine?
Im sure you could take it out of the box run it as is for about 5-6 runs before you need to grease the porp shaft.
07-14-2008, 08:49 AM
#467
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
Sweet! Just found one in red! Ordered it up along with a set of extra props just in case!
Are there any aftermarket props that can be added for better performance or anything? I tried to sort some mods out but the thread is pretty long now and I couldn't see if there was anything worth throwing in off the get-go.
So anyway - If I wanted to hop this puppy up, where would I start?
Are there any aftermarket props that can be added for better performance or anything? I tried to sort some mods out but the thread is pretty long now and I couldn't see if there was anything worth throwing in off the get-go.
So anyway - If I wanted to hop this puppy up, where would I start?
07-14-2008, 11:10 AM
#468
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
Have Epoxy on hand. When the boat comes out the box before running it loosen the rudder screws. Apply Epoxy around where the screws go. Fillet the arms. Let dry overnight the re tighten. These have a tendancy to split around the screw hole.
Next step is to ditch the flex cable right away and get some .047 piano wire/music wire.
I also did the ball links on the rudders...
Probably best hop Ive seen without basically redoing the whole electronics is the VR3 motor for $15. Adding 2S lipo is also a plus I assume.
Next step is to ditch the flex cable right away and get some .047 piano wire/music wire.
I also did the ball links on the rudders...
Probably best hop Ive seen without basically redoing the whole electronics is the VR3 motor for $15. Adding 2S lipo is also a plus I assume.
07-14-2008, 12:22 PM
#470
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
You can roll up to post #70 or so for how to loosen up the rudder linkage so it doesn't break the control arm the first time you run the boat (or try to).
You're likely to break a rudder bracket or an arm before you break a prop.
An octura x431 prop is 1mm larger and gives a little more speed, but you can accomplish the same thing by allowing your NiMh pack to top off on trickle charge overnight before you run the boat (of course, you can always opt for both ;-). If you let the charger top off the battery pack, you'll have less of a problem with radio glitching or short range.
Remove the left rudder for a little bit more speed. Move the battery pack as far forward as you can without allowing it to hit the drive coupler. This helps the boat get on plane more quickly and it keeps it from looking dorky when your're bringing it in once the pack has run down.
Take the time to roll back through the thread
You're likely to break a rudder bracket or an arm before you break a prop.
An octura x431 prop is 1mm larger and gives a little more speed, but you can accomplish the same thing by allowing your NiMh pack to top off on trickle charge overnight before you run the boat (of course, you can always opt for both ;-). If you let the charger top off the battery pack, you'll have less of a problem with radio glitching or short range.
Remove the left rudder for a little bit more speed. Move the battery pack as far forward as you can without allowing it to hit the drive coupler. This helps the boat get on plane more quickly and it keeps it from looking dorky when your're bringing it in once the pack has run down.
Take the time to roll back through the thread
07-14-2008, 01:12 PM
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
ORIGINAL: Nina Roses Dad
You can roll up to post #70 or so for how to loosen up the rudder linkage so it doesn't break the control arm the first time you run the boat (or try to).
You're likely to break a rudder bracket or an arm before you break a prop.
An octura x431 prop is 1mm larger and gives a little more speed, but you can accomplish the same thing by allowing your NiMh pack to top off on trickle charge overnight before you run the boat (of course, you can always opt for both ;-). If you let the charger top off the battery pack, you'll have less of a problem with radio glitching or short range.
Remove the left rudder for a little bit more speed. Move the battery pack as far forward as you can without allowing it to hit the drive coupler. This helps the boat get on plane more quickly and it keeps it from looking dorky when your're bringing it in once the pack has run down.
Take the time to roll back through the thread
You can roll up to post #70 or so for how to loosen up the rudder linkage so it doesn't break the control arm the first time you run the boat (or try to).
You're likely to break a rudder bracket or an arm before you break a prop.
An octura x431 prop is 1mm larger and gives a little more speed, but you can accomplish the same thing by allowing your NiMh pack to top off on trickle charge overnight before you run the boat (of course, you can always opt for both ;-). If you let the charger top off the battery pack, you'll have less of a problem with radio glitching or short range.
Remove the left rudder for a little bit more speed. Move the battery pack as far forward as you can without allowing it to hit the drive coupler. This helps the boat get on plane more quickly and it keeps it from looking dorky when your're bringing it in once the pack has run down.
Take the time to roll back through the thread
Thanks!
07-14-2008, 01:49 PM
#472
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
You can find the x431 it if you google it or if you pm the guy on ebay who sells octura props. I've put off ordering a couple because I keep telling myself that what I really need to do is put those few $$$ toward a couple of liPo batteries, in which case the stock prop will be just fine.
The stock charger is a good little unit, but only works on 12v DC, so leaving it plugged into your car overnight only works if the accessory outlets stay on 24/7. I have a decent AC/DC peak charger, but I mostly use it for the 7-cell packs for my Hammer. I've got one of those thermoelectric ice-less coolers which happens to have a very nice switching AC power supply, so I run the Mini-Rio charger off that and just leave it on the workbench. I bought a 1-into-3 parallel charging harness from all-battery.com and I let all 3 of my packs for this boat trickle charge at the same time. That way they top off nice and slow and they don't even get warm.
Others on this thread with fancy chargers have said that they've measured the capacity of the pack to be over 1400mah, so the 1100mah rating is probably conservative, meant to be an indication of what it holds if only charges up to the point that you've trigger the peak detection circuitry in the charger and haven't actually let it top off. You can find identical packs on all-battery.com as well. Their prices on ebay are usually lower than if you buy off their website, though.
The stock charger is a good little unit, but only works on 12v DC, so leaving it plugged into your car overnight only works if the accessory outlets stay on 24/7. I have a decent AC/DC peak charger, but I mostly use it for the 7-cell packs for my Hammer. I've got one of those thermoelectric ice-less coolers which happens to have a very nice switching AC power supply, so I run the Mini-Rio charger off that and just leave it on the workbench. I bought a 1-into-3 parallel charging harness from all-battery.com and I let all 3 of my packs for this boat trickle charge at the same time. That way they top off nice and slow and they don't even get warm.
Others on this thread with fancy chargers have said that they've measured the capacity of the pack to be over 1400mah, so the 1100mah rating is probably conservative, meant to be an indication of what it holds if only charges up to the point that you've trigger the peak detection circuitry in the charger and haven't actually let it top off. You can find identical packs on all-battery.com as well. Their prices on ebay are usually lower than if you buy off their website, though.
07-20-2008, 12:53 PM
#474
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
ORIGINAL: Wheelnut
Do not use the stock battery with any type of motor upgrades with out upgrading the wires on the pack. Here is what happened when I ran it with my AMMO brushless motor.
Do not use the stock battery with any type of motor upgrades with out upgrading the wires on the pack. Here is what happened when I ran it with my AMMO brushless motor.
07-20-2008, 01:14 PM
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RE: Aquacraft Mini Rio
I just modified the stock Mini Rio charger to have a molex connector that interfaces to my computers power supply. The computer puts out 12v over a yellow wire so I have it hooked up with a quick disconnect so I can go back and forth between a computer molex and the cigarette plug so I can charge the battery both in and out of the house.
It beeps when its done though - should I leave it plugged in and let it continue to charge? The manual says not to.
It beeps when its done though - should I leave it plugged in and let it continue to charge? The manual says not to.