bigcam406

i purchased a fastech nitro 3 years ago,never ran it.figured i'd take out the flexshaft today to lube it and run it this evening.unfortunately,when I was removing the nut,2 of the 3 fingers that clapse the shaft were broken due to overtightening from the factory and fell off.i then tried to remove the nut from the flywheel using an allen wrench and a 10mm open end.it would not budge.it was at the point of bending the allen wrench.anyone have any suggestions to remove this from the flywheel,as it has to be removed in order to put another one on.thanks in advance.

advanced builder

this is a FE site ,couplers will work http://kintecracing.com/Collets_Couplers.html

amax

Get a Piston Stop at your local hobby shop (it screws in the Glow Plug Hole) so the engine can't turn then use the wrench to remove it.

bigcam406

I thought of that,but I figured the amount of force that I used with the allen wrench in the hole on the flywheel wouldn't budge it,i'd certainly damage a piston or rod with a piston stop.dont want to ruin a brand new engine.thinking im going to cut it off with a Dremel.thanks for the replies.im just waiting for my lhs to receive my order of collets.

rcguy1411

use a lil bit of heat sounds like who ever built that boat was on steroids also I have a pair of channel lock with tubing over them that wont put marks on the brass fly wheel

amax

I have Removed Several Tight Collets in this fashion and never had a problem. The piston stop, Stops the piston just before TDC where the crank doesn't have the travel to bend the rod and the piston is made of a Harder grade aluminum than the piston stop so the stop will get damaged before the piston. If you use the dermal be carful not to damage the threads on the crank. Good Luck.

bigcam406

well today was the only time I could work on the boat.i FINALLY got the collet off after approx. 1.5hrs of farting around.tried heat and wrenching it off,no go.broke 2 allen keys holding the flywheel.was going to dremel and cut it,not enough room to do what I wanted.ended up using a bolt splitter I had,worked great.put the new one on,was about to grease and install the flexshaft,noticed the collet and tube wernt lining up properly.measured it,was 3/4"off.i played around with the motor mount for approx. another hour,got it almost perfect.installed flexshaft,new x435 prop.tightened everything up,wanted to check the radio.steering works,throttle servo doesn't want to cooperate now.....this crap never ends

amax

If you haven't done anything to water proof your servos remove them and pull the bottom cover off and make sure it's good and dry inside as well as the receiver for the radio. There are a number of ways to water proof your electronics. I prefer CRC's HD Corrosion Inhibitor, some use Corrosion X , ATV Silicon, Epoxy etc...

bigcam406

the boat has never seen water yet lol

amax

If you have an AM or FM radio system it will Glitch when the two antennas are close together. OR Maybe you have Adjusted the servo travel or rate it travels at the radio and didn't realize it.

bigcam406

replaced the servo with another one from my other fastech.same problem.switched receivers from my other fastech as well,works great.i guess the receiver is to blame.now to get it in the water,i'll try to convince the gf's son to do some video while im running it and i'll post it here.thanks for your help.

amax

If you haven't water proofed the receiver put it in a balloon and rubber band it Tight around the wires. The Stock radio systems in the RTR boats are the Cheapest they can get so expect issues.

bigcam406

yes,i re wrapped the receiver in a balloon.im looking to upgrade the receiver and radio soon,was looking at the Spektrum 2.4 stuff.just waiting for a decent day to take it out to break it in first.lately,its been too windy and my nearest pond is Lake Ontario lol.a bit too choppy for this boat imo.thanks for your tips.

amax

I've used the Older Spektrum System for years (and still do) before they had a Marine line and never had an issue after I learned how to Waterproof everything. One of the things I really like is I can run 7.2v 400mah LiPo batteries without a voltage regulator or UBEC no problem, and by doing so I dropped 3oz of battery weight. Another is the built in Fail Safe, if setup Properly when you Bind the Tx & Rx together, it has saved my boats from total destruction a number of times. I set mine to turn Right and Drop to Half Throttle when activated so the boat drops Off Plane and turns around and comes back into range.

bigcam406

well,i finally got to run my fastech tonight,conditions were perfect on Lake Ontario.first tank went by quick,carb was really rich,still performed admirably.when I brought it in,i noticed a large amount of water in the boat.checked lines from the head,found a split at the outlet fitting.cut and placed the line on the fitting.second run went about the same,still water in the hull.couldnt find a leak in the lines.third tank was going well,then it died.figured water was the cause.lots in the hull again after it was rescued.all in all,wasnt a bad experience,was impressed with handling of the boat.i guess I have some investigating to do to find the leak.i'll post a vid when I get it running decent.just wondering,would water temp effect the performance of the engine,as the water temp was approx. 65 degrees,and the head didn't feel too warm after running it.

amax

Yes water temp will affect Tuning Some, BUT engine temp is greatly controlled by Air\Fuel Mixture. a Rich Needle will run Cooler and a Leaner Needle will run Hotter. Engine temp is how you tell when you're getting to the right Air\Fuel Mixture (needle setting).

As far as Water inside the hull,, Some water is Normal it will Splash in Any and All Cracks and Crannies around the cowling Especially if you're running it Hard.

bigcam406

I can understand a little water in the hull,but there was a huge amount,see my other thead for details.