cpt nj

Im looking for some help on the low end carburator adjustment , I have the manuel from the box but it has nothing on this setting , any help out there ?

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

What do you need to know

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

Be sure to tune the high end needle first, then tune the idle. If you try to set the idle first you will have a hard time setting the engine to run well in the midrange.

Ed

lilhachet

My Feedback: (2)

I just did my satio 72 after 3-4 years running it the way it was, just needed a little tweaking.I found the best way for me was to ajust it while the motor was running.Just have to be careful of the turning prop, but it was about 2-3 inches back to,now it runs great and the idle is very low with good transition. Good luck.

Charlie P.

There is a description in the manual, at least the current ones.

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

Yes take note of that 1/8 turn on both needles. Super tiger carbs are very sensitive. 1/8 of a turn too much the wrong way could give you grief. A simple method I use for the Fox and Super Tiger carbs low speed is 1 1/2 turns out , full open throttle, cover carb with your finger and then flip the prop until you see the fuel come up in the fuel line to the carb. Stop flipping the prop when you see the fuel come up to the carb and remove your finger. The fuel should stay in the line and not go back into the tank. If it does it means the low end needle has to open some more. Open about 1/8 turn more, then do the flip test again. When the low end needle is open enough fuel will stay in the line.Do 2 extra clicks for good measure. That is your starting point. Start engine and run it up to full throttle. Full throttle should be set slightly rich, smoke coming out the exhaust. Low end should be pretty close to good, adjust as needed until you get smooth throttle response from low to high. If it hesitates in the middle turn in 2 clicks until it smooths out.

mundo330

My Feedback: (3)

If you are still working on your Super Tigre, the ST Carb has a full width spray bar unlike the common OS, TT, Irvine carb. If the adjustment has been played with and you are having problems setting it remove the carb and look at the underside of the spray bar, there is an almond shaped slot in the bar and the needle will be visible in the slot. The end of the needle is flat so it has a squared off look in the slot. The end of the needle should be exactly in the middle of the slot. This is the starting point. Now reinstall the carb and turn the main needle (On the port/ right of the engine) all the way in till it seats. Do this gently and over tightening can damage the needle. Now, if your main needle does not have an index mark, mark the top of the needle's knurled brass knob with a sharpie and turn the needle 1 1/2 turn counter clockwise. Now start the engine and bring to full throttle. turn the main needle counter clockwise slowly until the engine rpm drops. Now turn it clockwise slowly until you reach the peek rpm and rpm drops slightly. Back off the needle 1/8- 1/4 turn and bring the engine to idle. As soon as the engine rpm stabilizes pinch the fuel line just before the carb. The rpm should rise for a brief moment and the engine should die. If it rises allot and runs for a few seconds first it is too rich, turn the low end needle(on the starboard/ right side of the engine) 1/8th turn clockwise. restart and try again remembering to run the engine up to full throttle for a few seconds then drop to idle and do the pinch test. If the engine dies without the rpm increase then you are too lean, turn the low end needle 1/8th turn counterclockwise and try again. Never adjust the low end needle more than 1/8th turn and after you have a clean low end setting readjust the high needle setting. This should net a clean running engine that transitions from idle to full throttle clean and quick with no hesitation. If you are still having trouble setting your carb check for air leaks. A pin hole in a fuel line, Dried cracked base o-ring, or worn out needle o-ring are most common. Also check the muffle pressure line and tap for clogs. Also on Super Tigre carbs the older units had poor sealing at the needle. A short length of fuel line under the needle valve can fix this. I have also used this under the low end needle on some models.
Hope this helps!
Doug S

Cherokee Flyer

None of you have talked about adjusting the mid-range. This is done if the engine does not transition well and is done by moving the inlet angle by lossening the two screws on the needle valve end and moving the whole assembly usually rotating the fuel inlet down.

L.

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

I don't think ST even tells about rotating the entire NV assembly for mid-range adjustment anymore.

How much time does the engine have on it? It's not worth messing with the idle needle until you go though the first gallon or two.

Phoenixangel

Its in the FAQ on the Super Tigre site. They are my favorite engine. Ill post it here, and for those of you that already knew it, BRAVO !


[link=http://www.supertigre.com/faq/product-faq.html#q22]SUPER TIGRE [/link]

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

Both of these comments are wrong.

The instructions say "Finally, the midrange can be adjusted by rotating the spraybar a hair. Just loosen the two screws next to the high-speed needle and rotate the spraybar just a tiny bit. Either direction is OK. This will help you get a good transition and midrange."

The second comment is wrong because the super tiger 45 is not a ringed engine - it doesn't need to be broken in like the ringed tigers. So the comment about waiting until you go through the first gallon or two is wrong for this engine. The tower website lists it as "SuperTigre GS-45 Dual BB ABC w/Muffler" and the description fpr this engine says "ABC cylinder and piston (An "A"luminum piston with a "B"rass "C"hromed cylinder sleeve).

Ed

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

Well Ed, I'm not sure that ST puts that instruction with every engine. I've been running ST engines since 1968 and have owned at least 20 of them. Looking through four different engine boxes, and I found it referenced once.

They also state that they preset the idle screw, so no initial adjustment is required. Now on the ST engines that I have run, some are ring, others lapped, while others are ABC. All engine require breaking in, not only for the piston/sleeve fit, but also to allow the rod to lap in it's fit with the wrist pin and crank pin. While an engine is still tight and coming in to a fit it requires slightly more fuel at idle than a well broke in motor. Generally an engine will idle better in the air than it does on the ground, because it has the airflow to help maintain the engine running while idled back. What it may not do well is throttle transition, but I don't worry about that until the engine has some time on it. Once the engine fit has stabilized it is worth my time to adjust the bottom end, but till then I don't try to hit a moving target.