Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

The only other possibility I thought of is to make sure you have the little spring and O-ring that helps keep the dogbone in place.
Have you checked to see of it would be just long enough to contact both out drives?

clamber

Mine is for sale if anyone's interested:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=542254

chondro1

Wheelnut:
On one side of the truck I had to put 2 springs in due to the deep socket now. Also When I built the mip diffs I put the plastic gears back in until I get metal ones, and when I put my 2cell Lipo in and pulled the throttle I now have a clicking sound, any imput on what that could be??

Mike

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

chondro1,
It could be several things.
Check the mesh of the spur and pinion first.
Next it could be the plastic gears you just mentioned. After that, check and see if it is the dogbone slipping in the end of the outdrive.

3de

My Feedback: (6)

Has anyone here swapped around their a-arms to gain a longer wheelbase? Also it looks like it would change the toe degree? (rear)

chondro1

Wheelnut:

Thanks for all the great info, I didnt get into the diffs again, due to the fact that I've got to take them apart again to put the metal gears in, The dog bones look OK for now, It really start to make the cracking sound when I put the 3 cell lipo in. Took that out and put the 2 cell back in, and it kept on doing it when the throttle is pinned. If Im easy on it its OK. I guess I'll just wait till the metal gears come to see whats up.

Mike

Xue99

I have a question guys.... does the exotek rc18 off road conversion really need saddle battery packs?? If so, where can i find lipo saddle battery packs that are designed for 1/18th scale cars?? Thanks.

calvino

Aaah done it with good results . Um it may but if you spin the back toe mount around (upside down) it works amazing [8D]. Aaah someone needs some CV's

3de

My Feedback: (6)

Awesome, thanks. I'm going to have to swap them this weekend.. The fronts just swap and re-do steering linkage/toe correct?

calvino

Aaah you cant flip the front end, it wacks up the toe a huge amount. The rear is fine, makes it handle bumps WAY better and IMO it handles better... time to find out why the drivetrain is the way it is *ahem* bearings

OvalRacer99

Hey Mike, just a sugestion. There are shims in the diffs to adjust the gear mesh, if those are in wrong it will cause slippage between the pinion gear and the diff gear.
I had that same problem when I went with a brushless motor and had just rebuilt the diffs.

clamber

Anybody want a Brushless RTR Factory Team Associated RC18T + extras for $150? I need money for Dr. bills. I broke my wrists.

Traxxas4fun

My Feedback: (3)

are any of the rc18s good on a smaller 1/10 scale dirt track?

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

I would say the 18T and 18B are both good on a small dirt track straight out of the box. With a little work the 18R could be good on a small dirt track also as long as there aren't any big jumps.

rcdriv3r

so i just dropped a reedy 9500kv system into my 18b and want to set the ESC to 'standard' to get a quicker response time. i tried to follow the directions by holding the 'set' button on the ESC for three seconds but nothing happens.... can anyone help me with this? thanks.

smenton

Hey guys
I've been looking at getting a mini and Ive decided on the RC18T
I really cant be bothered reading through all 116 pages but just wondering what the basic mods are to make this car really perform.
I plan for brush less and possibly LiPo so i want to make this car read for the power.
What mods and hop-ups do you recommend to get this car ready for brush less power?
I'm guessing it will just be the usual, upgrade diffs, oil shocks etc, etc... but just wondering if there will be anything else necessary.

Also just thought I'd let you know about this site i found, i don't know if you guys have heard of it before but it seemed to have good parts support.

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...8MT/Categories

I'm not sure about prices compared to tower hobbies or the local hobby shops or anything but it seems alright to me.

Thanks
Brent

iTz Nicholas

First off I highly recommend you get the FT kit as it is much better than the RTR and you will be able to pick your own electronics.

To have a basically bulletproof RC18 you should get:
DP Gear Cover
DP Draglink
TheToyz Alloy Steering
TheToyz Steel Diffs
Diff Shims
RPM Bumper

smenton

So, Does the FT come with radio or no electronics whatsoever?
Whats the difference between the FT and the normal RC18? Just no electronics?
or is the FT full graphite or something?

Thanks

iTz Nicholas

It has no electronics and you get to build it. It has a few upgrades over the RC18T RTR but I can't remember them all.

calvino

aluminum shocks
titanium turnbuckles
carbide diff balls
blue lock nuts
blue diff outdrives
blue aluminum ballstuds
blue aluminum dogbones
clear shell
11, 12 and 13T pinion along with a 60 and 55T spur

those are the "goodies" that it has vs the RTR

iTz Nicholas

Well I'm not going to quit the hobby and I'm going to get my RC18T FT running again.

All I need is:
Center Driveshaft
Spur Gear
Drive Pins

My 7800kv motor is almost dead so I'm going to switch to a 5200kv/3S set up.

etivac13

anybody using this on their MT?

http://www.hobbywing.com/english/Pro...hless%20System

what upgrades are needed? thanks...

iTz Nicholas

I have the 25A/7800kv combo and it's great. I just wish they sold a 25A/5200kv combo because that would be an ideal system for 3S.

calvino

What says you can pick up one of the low cost HC lower KV motors [&:]. I have a larger 4200 just screaming to be droped into my 18T once I get it going

smenton

Thanks for the help with the RC18T vs RC18T FT. Despite the FT being better in alot of ways i think i will still stick with the non FT or try pick something up off ebay for cheap