westphill24

what kind of steering problems?

maxxin2.5

it will always turn one way more than the other..
because when i turn (left i beleive) the ball cup rubs on my diff case..and i cant stop it.. i tried fileing down the ball cuop and adjusting the steering but i just couldnt figure it out because it would always turn one way better..
it is very annoying..
and i want to switch back to my stock chassis but those damn tiny allen head screws stripped and there is NO way to get them out so i am stuck with my cf chassis.. and i really dont liek to bash with it

sonicj

My Feedback: (2)

drill em out!

calvino

re-center your servo/pop off the steering assembly and set the tires DEAD straight, sounds like it was placed on misaligned [&:]

So Cal

I usually take a dremel and make them ino flatehead screws, and then screw them out with a flathead screwdriver. If you dont like your cf chassis i will take it off your hands for no charge.

FloridaDude

i will to

maxxin2.5

no i like my cf chassis but i dont want to bash with my cf chassis because it is f'ed up as it is.. and i have recentered it PERFECTLY and it still does the same thing.. i thing it is the chassis and the steering it misaligned like you said.
so i want to switch back to my stock and try that but i dont have front and rear bumper or i cant get the screws out.. i think i might try t use a dremil to make them flat heads.. sounds like a good idea..

Derigor

yes, if you do not have the horn on your servo centered then it will have more throw in one direction than it does in the other. Even if you had the wheels set straight when you put it all together when the servo was zeroed, the horn being off center causes a longer travel in one direction than the other. I could draw it out, but that is Beomagi's department. His paint skills are amazing.

maxxin2.5

i dont know because i broke the servo trying it so if i ever make another attenmpt to fix it i will let you guys know..

Derigor

Yea, when stuff binds like that the extra strain on the servo doesnt do it any good. It also kills your run times. As a side note, using a digital servo you can set the end points left and right so that you get no binding on either side... It's a band aid fix if you have a digital servo and radio lying around. I had to do with on my latest inferno creation as I wasnt some place where I could tear the entire front end apart and see why it was binding.

ludeman

I had the same problem with my CF chassis on a RC18T and using the MG65 servo. Also the A-arm hinge pins ride in little plastic ball cups on the CF chassis and if you take a nice tumble they pop out! I did not like it for the T so I gave it to my buddy who has RC18R and it works great for him. I think these were meant for the R's not a T that goes bashing off road.
Funny, the more I hop up my mini's the more stock part I find myself going back to

Derigor

There is a reason cars use alot of plastic these days. Having to hammer out the dents and bends in my rc10 tub chassis was a pain in the butt. Plastic is so much better. I remember when the b1 stealths came out. we were so amazed at those suckers lack of a black/gold aluminum tub chassis. It was like staring at the future.

westphill24

I have the same problem but I tried centering the servo and setting wheels straight but I still notice one way turning better than the other. I have the stock chassis and a 65mg so hopefully yours dosnt do it.

Derigor

There is a difference between centering the servo and centering the servo horn. I cant remember because my car isnt infront of me, but I think to give it the same throw in either direction the horn needs to be perpendicular to the chassis.

This is a possible problem, but I mean, heck... if you see one of the tie rods binding against a post or something then there is your obvious problem. Had this problem on my rc10 after switching to some aftermarket arms/tie rods... they just didnt have the same clearance that the originals did.

Spiro

On the topic of screws stuck in the chassis...

What screws do you guys use for the chassis? The stock Sir Phillips Stripsalot did their usual trick so I swapped out with some SHCS. Problem is with such a tiny car the M2 (!!!) flatheads that go through the chassis have an ittty bitty 1.27mm wrench size and strip super easy. I can't find a decent hardened driver in that size either, so the one kinda crappy driver I have keeps rounding off and getting dremeled slightly shorter.

So now I am sorta in the same boat as Masxin2.5 and I have 2 stripped chassis screws stuck in one car.

Step 1) I gotta get those stuck screws out. Dremmel flat head? Easy Out? Drill it?
Step 2) What screws should I be using for the chassis to avoid these problems as much as possible?

Thanks in advance,
Spiro

Derigor

you check out rcscrewz.com? They have good stainless steel screw kits. Should make a world of difference. cheap soft chinese steel screws are just terrible for any application. You need beefy american steel!

FloridaDude

doing the dremel and drilling work good, so either one u want to do. i like dremel that way i can still use the screw if i need to. get the titanium srew set it shouldtake care of screws stripping.

Derigor

you always want screws a that are made with good enough metal that they strip out your cheapo philips/ allen wrench instead of the screw. That way you will go to sears and buy craftsmen tools with lifetime warranties.

FloridaDude

here are the [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/41Pcs-Titanium-Full-Screws-Set-RC-18T-RC-18B_W0QQitemZ120341297574QQihZ002QQcategoryZ44028Q QcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262]screws[/link]
i use cresent allen wreches and they work great. snap-on tools are always a good choice, thats the only thing i have in my mechanics tool box

Mr. Mugen

If you get in a spot where the dremel wont fit and there seems to be no other way, go find a left handed drill bit. Use it very slowly so it grabs the screw....not drilling it. You want it to unscrew the screw...not put a hole in it. It has worked everytime for me.

Kevin

Spiro

I have always had good luck with hardened steel hex drivers. I have used several different brands with the same success. The first time I ponied up and bought a set instead of using some cheep set of bent allen wrenches I thought it was a foolish waste of money. Luckily it was for work and works money, so it didn't break my heart too bad. I must say, after using some decent hardened steel drivers I will never go back. I used those drivers so much over a two year period I wore off the anodization WITH MY HANDS and I had some very impressive callouses that fit those drivers exactly. The drivers them selves though? Zero visible wear on the tips and they fit just as tight as when new.

I now have a full set of hardened steel drivers at home as well, but I can't find a decent one for those tiny 1.27mm M2 flat heads!

Thanks much for your suggestions. I agree soft steel fasteners aren't the way to go. In my (necessarily limited) experience a lot of the stainless fasteners people use are even softer. Depends entirely on the alloy, same as regular steel. I would be happy to hear some specific suggestions such as rcscrewz.com or whoever you recommend. Please let me know if you are happy with the hardness of the fasteners. I have never tried Ti fasteners on hobby stuff, but would be willing to give it a try. I don't need a whole set for the car as I am just looking for the chassis fasteners. Feel free to recommend places that sell hardware that you have had good luck with.

Thanks very much again.
Spiro


PS: I have used RTL Fasteners for years and am very happy with their hardware and prices. I can't say the M2 flat heads are holding up though www.rtlfasteners.com

Derigor

I have the rcscrewz kit for my infernos and they work well. It took me forever to find a 1.2 driver, but I finally found one at home depot or lowes, cant remember which.

So Cal

I use crafstman allen wrenches, and it always strips the screw. And if it does strip the wrench i just go to sears and get a new one. I havent had any troubles with allen screws on the rc18, just stripped the top motor mount screw(phillips head). It is now a flathead and works just fine. I just bought a 1.5mm XTM hex driver like a screwdriver but with a allen head that seems to work good.

Spiro

So Cal,

Are you using flat head allens on the chassis underside? If so:
- what size hex drive do they use?
- how do you like them, any stripping problems?
- where did you get them?

Thanks much,

Spironi

savage239

Hey guys im new to the RCU forums, so, hey! I've been having a problem with my 3racing aluminum steering belcrank set i recently purchased for me 18mt. When I tighten the screws going into the servo and other thingy, they quickly loosen, and create huge steering problems. If anybody has any tricks or tips for this problem, please let me know!

thanks!,
Liam