1/2a 3ding
#53
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Looking good rckid! It's moving along well. If you can and it's not too much of a hassle take the covering back and get a lighter covering like Coverlight. The stuff you have is heavy. If you do use it be carefull with shrinking it as it can easly pull structures out of shape. I reinforced the inside of each tip rib on the wing with a 1/4 in wide piece of 3/32' balsa glued on end(like an I-beam) to keep them from being sucked in by the shrinking covering.
Good job and keep us posted.
Good job and keep us posted.
#54
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From: Rockford Il,
IL
well i cant seem to find the resit. But i was thinking about putting a norvel .074 instead of a .061. So the extra weight shouldn't matter right¿
#55
Great job so far RCkid!
Darren's suggestion of getting lighter covering is a good one, but I've always covered my Half-Wits and Edgelings with the covering you have in front of you. You need to be careful when shrinking the covering, as it is possible to induce a warp into the surfaces, but I like the toughness of the heavier covering. I would also suggest following Darren's suggestion of reinforcing the corners.
As for the engine, go for the .074. You will have to mount the battery behind the servos, but the resulting center of gravity will be much better that way. Powerwise, the .074 is a good leap ahead of the .061 with a very small weight penalty.
Looks great so far!
Darren's suggestion of getting lighter covering is a good one, but I've always covered my Half-Wits and Edgelings with the covering you have in front of you. You need to be careful when shrinking the covering, as it is possible to induce a warp into the surfaces, but I like the toughness of the heavier covering. I would also suggest following Darren's suggestion of reinforcing the corners.
As for the engine, go for the .074. You will have to mount the battery behind the servos, but the resulting center of gravity will be much better that way. Powerwise, the .074 is a good leap ahead of the .061 with a very small weight penalty.
Looks great so far!
#57
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Hi Rc kid,
I think Match and I are talking about two different things on the reinforcement. First pic is what I was speaking about. The second is what I think Jeremy was suggesting. By way of information I used 1/16" very light balsa for the ribs on my HW, so I had to reinforce as shown in the first picture to keep the rib from being curved inward when I shrank the covering. If you used 3/32" I wouldn't wory about it but I would reinforce the corners as shown.
Darren
I think Match and I are talking about two different things on the reinforcement. First pic is what I was speaking about. The second is what I think Jeremy was suggesting. By way of information I used 1/16" very light balsa for the ribs on my HW, so I had to reinforce as shown in the first picture to keep the rib from being curved inward when I shrank the covering. If you used 3/32" I wouldn't wory about it but I would reinforce the corners as shown.
Darren
#61
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From: Rockford Il,
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ok guys ive been looken on ebay for a norvel .074 and theres not a lot of them. So would a Cox Queen Bee .074 work to¿ Also what size battery do i need (mah)¿ And one more thing wheres the cg.
#62
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From: Houston,
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I'm sure others have opinions also, but my favorite comment on the Queen Bee .074 was that it had the raging power of an .049 and the weight of a .10.
If you want a Norvel .074, you're best bet may be to just buy one from Norvel off their site.
The CG should be shown on the plans, but I think on the main spar should get you started. Also, be careful of the aileron throws on the first flight, this thing will roll like crazy.
On the battery, anything around 300 mah should do you. If you PM me your address, I'll send you a 350 mah nimh pack for free.
Duke
If you want a Norvel .074, you're best bet may be to just buy one from Norvel off their site.
The CG should be shown on the plans, but I think on the main spar should get you started. Also, be careful of the aileron throws on the first flight, this thing will roll like crazy.
On the battery, anything around 300 mah should do you. If you PM me your address, I'll send you a 350 mah nimh pack for free.
Duke
#63
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Hello rckid,
The only .074 to buy is the Norvel. Whatever you do DON'T BUY A COX .074 QUEEN BEE!!!!!!! It's a POS and will not fly your HW. Dukester nailed it ".049 power with the weight of a .10"!! Get the Norvel .074. It has the power of a .010 at 1/2 -3/5 the weight of most .010 engines. Simply put you can't go wrong with the Norvel and you will regret the purchase of the Cox .074.
Also beware of buying an engine off Ebay. I would only buy somyhing that's NIB and not used. You would probably be better off getting a new one from your LHS or a online retailer (just my opinion).
Reguarding the battery pack Dukesters suggestion and offer is a good one, I flew my HW with a 270 nicad.
Darren
The only .074 to buy is the Norvel. Whatever you do DON'T BUY A COX .074 QUEEN BEE!!!!!!! It's a POS and will not fly your HW. Dukester nailed it ".049 power with the weight of a .10"!! Get the Norvel .074. It has the power of a .010 at 1/2 -3/5 the weight of most .010 engines. Simply put you can't go wrong with the Norvel and you will regret the purchase of the Cox .074.
Also beware of buying an engine off Ebay. I would only buy somyhing that's NIB and not used. You would probably be better off getting a new one from your LHS or a online retailer (just my opinion).
Reguarding the battery pack Dukesters suggestion and offer is a good one, I flew my HW with a 270 nicad.
Darren
#64
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From: OAKEYQueensland, AUSTRALIA
Good online dealer is Kitting it togeter here :- https://ssl10.mysecureserver.com/kit...dex_store.html Larry carries a bit of 1/2A stuff and gives good service and low shipping.
Stewart
Stewart
#65
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ORIGINAL: SGC
Good online dealer is Kitting it togeter here :- https://ssl10.mysecureserver.com/kit...dex_store.html Larry carries a bit of 1/2A stuff and gives good service and low shipping.
Stewart
Good online dealer is Kitting it togeter here :- https://ssl10.mysecureserver.com/kit...dex_store.html Larry carries a bit of 1/2A stuff and gives good service and low shipping.
Stewart
Also Rckid you may stumble across the Thunder Tiger .07 engine. While its a decent runner it's heavier than the Norvel and has less power. Again the best .074 out there in my opinion is the Norvel and Larry at K.I.T. has a good price on it.
Darren
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From: Rockford Il,
IL
now i have a question. What do i use to place the cg of the plane. if i cant get to the battery[X(]. But i was think of makeing a slide for the battery.
#74
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Hi rckid,
Wow that's a pretty good idea. You will probably make a good engineer some day. There's one problem I see however. Other than the engine, the battery pack is the heaviest single component in the plane. Therefore it needs to be securely mounted, you do not want it moving around during flight. The HW is capable of some wild manuvers that will shake a pack loose that is not very securely mounted. This can cause a crash due to shifting CG or the pack comming unpluged from the reciever.
What I did with my HW was basicly to use masking tape and tape the whole thing together before covering. Bolt the engine on (with prop) , tape the fuel tank on, install fuel lines, tape the landing gear on. Put your radio gear in the plane (servos, rx, switch) move the batery pack around untill you find your ballance point. Essentialy just mock up the plane with all your compnents as best you can then move things around untill it's right. I even mocked mine up with throttle and aleron pushrods but I don't think it's necessary.
Any way once you know where eveything is going to go, then you can remove it all, cover then reinstall. Covering really wont effect CG much. I actualy found it easier to install all my radio gear and then cover it. I mean if you think about it there are going to be some difficult tasks to get done post covering if you don't have this stuff in place first. Some are:
Installing reciever and routing antena.
Routing servo wires and getting them pluged into the reciever.
Routing battery pack and switch components.
I mounted my pack with double sided tape (3M mounting tape from the grocery store) to the balsa battery tray, then hit it with some CA. After that I CA'd a couple of pieces of balsa next to the pack to essently keep it from moving if the tape failed. I flew my HW to the limit, crashed it several time's and never had a problem with the pack comming loose. You can also use the same method for the reciever.
That's my 2 cents, keep us posted, it sounds like your relly comming along with this one.
Darren
Wow that's a pretty good idea. You will probably make a good engineer some day. There's one problem I see however. Other than the engine, the battery pack is the heaviest single component in the plane. Therefore it needs to be securely mounted, you do not want it moving around during flight. The HW is capable of some wild manuvers that will shake a pack loose that is not very securely mounted. This can cause a crash due to shifting CG or the pack comming unpluged from the reciever.
What I did with my HW was basicly to use masking tape and tape the whole thing together before covering. Bolt the engine on (with prop) , tape the fuel tank on, install fuel lines, tape the landing gear on. Put your radio gear in the plane (servos, rx, switch) move the batery pack around untill you find your ballance point. Essentialy just mock up the plane with all your compnents as best you can then move things around untill it's right. I even mocked mine up with throttle and aleron pushrods but I don't think it's necessary.
Any way once you know where eveything is going to go, then you can remove it all, cover then reinstall. Covering really wont effect CG much. I actualy found it easier to install all my radio gear and then cover it. I mean if you think about it there are going to be some difficult tasks to get done post covering if you don't have this stuff in place first. Some are:
Installing reciever and routing antena.
Routing servo wires and getting them pluged into the reciever.
Routing battery pack and switch components.
I mounted my pack with double sided tape (3M mounting tape from the grocery store) to the balsa battery tray, then hit it with some CA. After that I CA'd a couple of pieces of balsa next to the pack to essently keep it from moving if the tape failed. I flew my HW to the limit, crashed it several time's and never had a problem with the pack comming loose. You can also use the same method for the reciever.
That's my 2 cents, keep us posted, it sounds like your relly comming along with this one.
Darren
#75
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From: Houston,
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On mine I ended up putting the battery actually alongside the fuse in front of the wing. It won't hurt it to be exposed as long as the engine exhaust is not directly on it.
Duke
Duke



