ORIGINAL: MadForceDude
ok, seems like we got a misunderstanding here, so i will just repeat what already written.
1- i got traction problem the once i try a lock diff, witch is normal with a 3° toe in( read the top ), not with my ball diff.
2- i know how to set a diff ball and when i race at a track, i'm glad to have it. but i drive my evader most on road and in sand pit, in dusty condition ( read the top).
3- i ain,t got no problem with my evader at all, the tread was about founding a ordinary diff for when i'm hard bashing because its killing the ball diff( read the top).
tanks
This side of the forum's isn't known for the best advice...
Yeah, locking out the diff sucks... but my roommate's evader is all aluminum and has a ported OS18 (
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2877713/tm.htm ) and has managed to keep his current diff together for 1 gallon of the prev. engine, and about 2 on the current one. Considering the abuse it carries (weight of the truck, tall gearing, and SERIOUS mill) I'd have to say that it would seem like you shouldn't have the trouble that you've had. Grit and dust (as you've said) are this type of diff's worst enemy. Is it not possible that you run it a bit too loose?
His tranny has all the metal that you can find, and I know he built up the diff with the Associated Diff grease (RC10GT fare).
He also had one fail very early on, then replaced it with IDENTICAL pieces that have held up.
Do you give it the (just ruling things out) required breakin and re-tightening? Also they seem to hold up a bit better if run a tad tighter on high traction surfaces like pavement...
Just some thoughts.