Slyder

Hi Levi,
Do you have your child yet? Congrats if you have or when you do
I just placed an order with you for the Velox. Cant wait- but I will.LOL
Will be setup with a 2212/34- Pheonix 10- Hitech 4 ch. and 55's- and an e tech 1200. Prop will be apc 11x4.7. Hope that is right.
Will send photos and hopefully a vid when it is done

Levi_Jordan

My Feedback: (21)

Perfect setup... Light and lots of power. That's my favorite. You can go higher power, but the weight goes up too...

Baby is not here yet... this weekend maybe.. [X(] Just making airplanes, waiting for the big day!

Slyder

BTW, Has anyone tried those prop adapters that rubberband the prop on. I ordered one to try seeing that my boy who just soloed this summer will be flying it also
Just wandering if they work or did I waste money?

rcflyerrc

Just out of curiosity, why did you get so frustrated? I have two of the kits, one in Depron, & one in FFF. Except for the elevator/stab hingeing, I can't see ANY areas that would lead to major frustrations. The only problem that I ran across was during the bevels on the flight control surfaces. I used the tool that came from the factory, and the slots for the end piecs were too wide (sloppy) and the bevels were not consistent. I made my own, and all worked out fine. I used Sig easy hinges for the beveled surfaces & thin foam safe CA.

I really can't see much else to have problems with. Hope ou have better luch with future endeavors.

RCS

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Eric, the prop savers work great. Where they really come in handy is saving out-put shafts from bending.

Crash90

My Feedback: (17)

rcflyerrc. Just had a bad day I suppose.

Slyder

Can someone tell me what size hookup wire I should get. I ordered 14 ga. but it seems a little big.
Thanks

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Eric, what power combo are you using? Motor, batteries, ESC.

Slyder

AXI 2212/34, E Tech 1200 3 cell, Pheonix 10 and ACP 11x4.7 . I think that is the prop you recomended.

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Eric, do your need wire for the AXI? Use the same size wire as your Phoenix. I think it's 18 gage.

FNG

Hi Ben, if your AUW is 12-13 ox, an 11x4.7 might be better, power/run time. E-tec 1200 are good, TP1320 are better, or for a little more wieght, Kokam 1500 (cheap)

Mark

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

I agree with Mark. I have tried both the 11-4.7 and the 12-6 on numerous occaisions and I like the 11-4.7 much better for both flying caricteristics and flight time.

Slyder

Another question?
On my setup do I need to program the speed controller or are the factory setup OK? Let me know how you set yours.
All items are in hand except the plane. I hope Levi is not too sleep deprived so my kit gets here soon.
BTW- Congrats to you Levi and your wife for a pretty little girl.[sm=thumbup.gif]

FNG

I set my CC25 for fast start, brake off, soft cut, and I'm one of the evel ones that leaves the BEC @ 7.2. I find the power drop indicates the need to land anyway. If your flying style is less agressive, this maybe a bad idea.

Mark

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Eric, Levi provides a Castle Creations Phoenix set up guide with the kit instructions. Another reason why the quality of 3D Foamy kits is so very good. BTW, I got set up software and DSC cord for the Phoenix for my birthday and for the price, it's golden. So easy!

compute42

My Feedback: (15)

I have the Edge 540 with the AXI 2212/34 - Phoenix 25 - 11x 4.7APC - Thunderpower 1320 3cell Great setup. I dorked my plane too many times though, and the front end motor mount is nothing but tape now. Time for a new plane. I can hover the whole 10-15 min on this setup. (my first season flying too) The motor mount area, seems like it could use a bit of ply reinforcement for the AXI setup (I put two small ply pieces along the left and right sides to Levi's AXI motor mount). Just don't try to land with power on, or you'll be gluin' that mount back in!
Great plane, I really got good at hovering TR'ing with this setup.. I can do tail touches all day, and ususally hover about 1-3' off the runway. Shoots up like a rocket if I need it. Can't beat it for the $$$$

Slyder

Hey Levi or anyone else :-)
I got my foamie today in the mail. Looks great.
Here come the questions.
Has anyone used CA hinges? How do yu glue them? Can I squeeze some medium in the slot them stick the hinge in?
Is the programing on the pheonix 20 the same as the 10?
Thanks

rcflyerrc

That is what I have been using for my last several models. I take Sig easy hinges, and cut them into 1/4" wide strips. I made my own beveling tool for the leading edges; as, no offense to Levi, the ones in the kit did not work. What I did was to cut 3 strips of 1/4 ply approximately 1 in wide by 2 inches long. I beveled one edge of each piece at 45 degrees and then laminated each piece so that I had a 3/4" thick piece of ply with a 45 degree face. I mounted a single edge razor blade to the beveled face and then used a straight edge as a guide to run the bevel tool blade so that the hinge line of the flight control got a 45 degree bevel on each side. Long continuous edges (ailerons) were simple, but rudders and elevators were slightly more diffult, but really no problem.

I used an Xacto #11 blade to cut a slot in the mating surfaces and used thin foam safe ca to attach the control surfaces. I have been flying several planes, and the CA hinges have been completely reliable, whereas the tape tends to come loose on the corners of the control surfaces.

Hope this helps.

Happy holidays.

RCS

Slyder

Hey RCS.
Finished my foamy. I used the ca hinges like you suggested- worked great and easy. For beveling I just used the trusty sanding bar like I do on the wood ones had them done in a couple mins.
First flight was great for a couple of mins. till my tray broke. Tried to land with my TX hanging at a 45 degree angle plus the plane was a little nose heavy. Dropped it alittle hard and broke the motor off.
Flew it again yesterday. Cold and 15+ winds. What a blast. A couple other club members were getting a kick when I would fly it to me (with the wind at my back) head high and slow the motor till the plane looked like it was parked in the air just in front of me.
All I can say is these little foamies are great and I am glad I finally got one.

rcflyerrc

Yeh, they are a blast. I sit on my front porch & fly mine out in my front yard. I have two big pecan trees about 20 yards off the porch & do rolling 8s around them. My Sukoy (sp) will do continuous knife edge loops about 30 feet in diameter. Just started on my depron Funtana. Looking fwd to getting it into the air.

Glad you are having fun. What was the final configuration/equipment/weight on yours? Mine are all up with an AXI 2212/34 and a 3s 1320 thunderpower at 13 oz. I am running 4 cirrus 4.4 servos & a gws 6 ch rx. I have been toying with adding the additional strip on the fwd part of the wing as Levi indicated, but haven't done it yet. These planes use so much of the wing as ailerons, it makes them really squirrely when they get slow. His suggestion doesn't look like it would add that much additional weight, but might help the slow speed. I don't know if he is kitting the new version or not yet.

Good flyin,

RCS

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Y'all should try the Klett mini flex point hinges. They install super easy in foamies with Formula 560 canopy glue and move much easier than ca type hinges. I have used them on my last three foamies and wouldn't use anything else now. All that's involved in installation is to mark out the hinges and use a sharpened piece of .062 piano wire to make a pocket, put a dab of glue on the point and slide them in. Easy, and they hold.

baddley

My Feedback: (1)

Hey how are you guys doing.

Im new to foamies and i have never built one before. How hard is it to build a foamy bi plane from a set of plans and all the required material. Also does this look like a good setup for my YAK-54 foamie im getting ready to build.

Servo's - 9 gram class like the Hitec HS-55
Rx- regular futaba 8 channel "gumpack" style
Axi 2212/26
Thunder Power 2,100 3S pack
Hacker Master series 18 amp ESC

Thanks Scott

rcflyerrc

I am using the AXI 2212-34, phoenix 10, 3s1p 1320 Thunder power. I am now building my second one from a tiled set of PDF plans (3DX). The printed out PDF plans are not quite full size (you can do a KINKO"S print out of the actual full size plans) but to be honest, I can't see any difference in performance from the tiled set, and if you do it right, you only have to tape the tiles together once. If you use a tiled plan, be careful when you cut the individual sheets at the index marks, as if you don't make an index mark on the inner side of each index mark, you will cut off the index marks for the other edge of the tile. Other than that, they are pretty self explanitory.

I like the 2212-34 over the 2212-26 as it turns a larger prop slower (you don't need any more speed than a 11x4.7 APC prop will give you) and this setup will let you use the Phoenix 10. I have 4 sets running with this combo, and all hover on approx 40-50 percent power. The 10a esc is lighter and smaller, yet has all the programming capabilities (maybe not the computer programming capability, I've never gotten the programmer and I think it is only for the 20A esc) of the larger one, plus it is less expensive.

My planes all run in the 11-13 oz rtf weight (with battery). I have two of the 3d Foamy kits, and two other homebuilts. I think that you will enjoy everything these planes have to offer.

RCS

Slyder

Hey RCS,
Did you use the 3d foamy mount for your AXI? Anytips for mounting it or glue it on like the instructions say.
Thanks

rcflyerrc

Eric

What I do is use the radial mount that is sold from AXI and glue a 1/16" ply "firewall" behind the motor to mount it on. I got the laser cut mount from 3d Foamy, but after looking at everything, I decided on the aft mount system, as I think it maybe gives a little more strength. I have heard of planes breaking off the nose in a crash, and the further back you attach the motor, the less moment there is to break off the nose & motor.

I did have one break off the mount in a crash, but I just glued it back on, and added a couple pieces of 1/64 ply to the side gussets behind the 1/16" firewall (this plane did not have the horizontal side braces running down each side of the fuse, just a CF tube for strength similar to the wing spar tube). I glued a couple tapered gussets on the back of the firewall (about 2" long) for side support. The crash only tore the front off the gussets, & it was easy to glue back on. I then added the 1/64" ply reinforcement to the gussets because the fuse itself had not been damaged. It was a pretty significant cartwheel under power, and only very minor damage when the mount and firewall came off.

Hope this helps,

Ralph