Please tell me more, what are your thoughts??

If you check this web page there is some discussion by troybuilt models on them and the other kits http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/Accessories.htm
His advice to me previously has been spot on so i think what he says here is relevant.
Did you see the big carden edge flying at the windsor show?

I personally am also too aiming to go bigger, 50cc is my next size, which is looking to be the EF 87 yak which will give the codpeice a run for its money.

Havent flown anything bigger but i really like the look of the Somenzini 102" yak, the same size EF yak.

Cheers luke i'll have a look at the thread, no I didnt go to the winsor show, im not flying for the traders this year, might do the odd local show on invite only, telford, woodvale and southport, maybe swings and seals.....Why how was the edge, impressive or not??

i'll try and keep this on topic, have PMed you.

Paranoid me has now fitted straight UC on my Capiche. doesnt look as good but is a bit more practical.

Finally sorted the 140FZ... seems that drilling the airbleed hole to 1/8" stops the engine loading up at Idle! yep, YS told me to do it!

nice day for flying... so out she comes!


Regards,

Steve

.....Starting to have some fun now I can trust the 140FZ!!

I flicked to 3D rates when slowed down to enter a Harrier and I think I've overdone it.. very twitchy on elevator, even with -60% (Futaba) expo. I might take deflection down a bit from 90 degrees!

I'm finding already that the stock Hi F3A rates as per the instructions is a bit conservative!

Anybody have any initial 3d Settings for this model? as the instructions were a tad vague Measurements in degrees please

Regards,

Steve

Um ive got about 40-60 degrees up with about -75% expo on the elevator. About 65 degrees down.

Is it actually twitchy in the harrier too?

Thanks Luke,

Is that the Same for Ailerons???

by twitchy I mean sensitive about neutral, so I guess I need more Expo... no wing rocking though!

I'll try cutting everything down to 45 degrees rates with a tad more down aileron.

Cheers,

Steve

Ive got about 30-40 degrees on my ailerons, but their effect is enhanced because of the JR 8511s(no blowback at all at full throw) and also more propwash from a 19x8W. I'd possibly try a little more than that on yours.

How much down does it need inverted? If its hardly any at all then it wont have anything to do with c of g.

Thanks Luke,

Looks like I'm well OTT on travel at the moment... I got 8411 on Ailerons, they hold their own too!!!
I'm sure cutting these down will tame her.. just a breath of down when inverted...I'll up the expo too.. Thanks!

Getting more confident now.. this model is lovely


Regards,

Steve

Apologies for off topic post but I’ve got a YS 140L for sale. Excellent condition, £175.

Angus

Luke,

Things are much more achievable with your rates... thanks for that! This model comes alive for 3D!!


I bought a 140DZ to go in the Capiche, but this 140 FZ with the pipe is stonking, getting better with each tank, unlimited vertical snaps no problem so I'll save the DZ for a future project. (I guess I saved a bit when I went to the straight UC too)

If anyone wants an immaculate (carbon) Swept UC for a Capiche 140, please let me know via PM.

Regards,

Good to hear!!

You must have a cracking 140fz


If anyone wants two immaculate (carbon) Swept UC for Capiche 140, let me and Berk know

I've just dusted off my C140 and taken it for a few twirls since layup last summer.
Since then Ive been flying a YT Adrenaline and an EF 68" Yak.

Flying all three on the same day leads me to the following impressions:
Adrenaline 3rd place (I've a heavy 140 engine upfront) good all round performance, can stall and catch the unaware.
Yak 2nd place, excellent all round performance.
C140 1st by a considerable margin. Flys light and presents well. Never looks laboured. It may not look that pretty but it flys better than anything I have touched. Expensive to run though, 8 gallons of MT Yamada20/20 please.. ouch...

Aside: after three flights I snapped a rudder cable so when I got home I thought I'd check the model over. The engine box/ former F1 (engine box attaches to this) was coming away from the fuse. Another few flights and I reckon the YS would have had the front pulled off. Watch for this.

Infy

My engine box has 1/4 " triangular reenforced balsa and is glassed. No problems at all even with a 160 with really heavy 19x8W on the front giving a lot of gyroscopic forces in snaps and walls.

My Capiche is very nearly finished now, just got the covering to do, Hacker C50 is in the front now after I lost my smaragd However I'm thinking this beast is going to come out at over 11lbs. But I have the g/f cowl and U/C, Does anybody know how much weight I'll save using the C/F U/C and C/F Cowl. Please PM the answer too as I'll never find this when I check back in a months time ;(

I finally managed to complete my C140 after over a year of rather slow building and after 1 & 1/2 gallons of flying I was really liking it. Made me look much better than I really am . After watching a great flight with Luke flying his C140 I had a few things to try and do my best to try and follow it.....

Flight was going well but unfortunately it wasn't to be [&:], about half way through I lost all control of the elevator whilst flying slowly into wind at about 40'. From there it just porpoised into the ground at about 45 degrees. It is now a big jigsaw puzzle . Possibly repairable since the wing spar stayed intact - amazingly despite damage all around. Cowl new on that flight certainly doesn't look new anymore.

The cause I found to be the pin in the metal clevis seperated from the rest of the clevis. I used the stock location for a single elevator servo and Malcolms elevator joiner. I had just switched to a thick metal arm to get more movement, which I now realise allows no play for the clevis to move vertically and therfore is always being bent whenever the servo is moved. Nothing seemed to be binding and no strain on the servo was evident otherwise. When I rebuild I am going to try a different location for the elevator servo - haven't decided where yet though. Could take me a little while.

It was really gutting to see it go in after flying so well.
It was amazing that the spar survived. It must be incredibly well made. Good choice by IH going PBG and staying away from carbon copy rubbish!

Seems to be luck that i chose pete tindal servo arms - they are thin, strong but flex, which is probably the reason why my elevator linkage is still going strong(in conjunction with a different servo position)!

I thoughroughly recommend them now - i had a harrier landing flip accident where i hit the rudder on the deck - the plastic teeth on the servo arm gave way saving a 70 quid servo and leaving my rudder undamaged.

Kevin, where exactly did you have your Elevator servo located ? When running a system like this it is essential to have the rod in the middle of the plane, and to have the servos side mounted so that there is no lateral strain anywhere. Can you post a pic ?

It was mounted inverted in one of the side slots in the servo tray, with the arm outwards - so probably worst situation. The rudder push pull is centrally mounted upright. But I agree side mounted and central would be the way to go. I couldn't think of an easy way to mount it that way when I was building it - and still be able to get to it to maintain/check it. I had no access from the bottom due to my pipe tunnel.

I didn't think with a rod that long that the angle would change too much - obviously wrong...

I will think harder next time

How about using a ball link at the servo end ? I could then mount the servo in the same position and I wouldn't need to worry about slight changes in angle.

I use the rocket city ones all the time on helis so I don't really know why I didn't think about using these before. Or would the 1.5mm bolt through the ball be an issue?

Better, but personally I would still not be happy.

Get that arm right in the middle AND use a ball link - but only at the servo end with a good strong arm - not at the tail end.

Well with the Capiche safely packed away in the Wardrobe for winter (how could I let her overwinter outside) the hack model comes out, and my starter starts to struggle turning over a 140DZ...

I Use a Kavan Geared starter on 12 cells.. Plenty of gusto for the first start, then won't turn the engine over for next flight (nicads getting cold maybe)

What's the best starter out there for these big engines? Ideally i'd like a portable all in one jobbie.

sorry if it's a little off topic, but a lot of big 4 stroke users read this thread!

Regards,

Steve

Check out the mavrikk start that probuild do.

Luke

Its also possible to flatten batteries and over heat starters trying to turn a dry YS at the beginning of the day. I always start the day by opening the main need two turns, putting on full throttle turn by hand 10 times then put the starter on it and you will / should quickly hear it get wetter and speed up. I would suggest that if its been a while that you turn the model on a cradle so the engine is upright. Then wing the needle back in the two turns and fire her up... make a diff for me hopefully it will to you...