EU-1A
11-23-2003 | 02:33 AM
#26
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From: Chicago, IL
RE: EU-1A
Well, today I got my 10th and probably last flight of the year, I really don't enjoy flying below 50 degrees. I wanted to express thanks to Bill Gurrola and Wayne H. for getting me another EU-1A. The one I had for 10 years or so met its demise in 2001. This one really flys great. I believe the speed approached 125 or better in a dive. Yes, this big puppy really move out once she gets going. She slows down quite nicely for a perfect 3 point landing.
I tried knife edges, 4 pointers, rolling circles, inverted flat turns and spins, snaps, hammers heads and it flys them all well with very little correction. It seems to have a little too much right thrust, because the up and down line pull to the right and take a some trim to correct. I'll have to wait until next year to really get things dialed in.
Much Thanks Bill and Wayne.
I bought this EU-1A from Bill back in 2002 and just got around to starting and completing it this Sept.and Oct. Bill wanted to see pictures of the finished plane. So Bill if you get a chance check it out. [sm=cool.gif]
This one worked out better than expected. I was able to keep the weight just under 10lbs. by judicious use of carbon fiber, Kevlar and polyurethane glue.
The wings,stab and rudder are all cored, as much as, possible and glued with polyurethane glue, this kept things really light. I reconfigured the aileron to 3x20 barn door type instead of the normal thin strip ailerons. This give me excellent flap effect and extreme roll rates, if I choose, to swing those massive wings around quickly. I also added lead edge wing tip extensions to produce crisper snaps and to help in prove airflow over the wing for nominal speed increase.
I chose to mount the pipe in the bottom interior of the fuse and use the fuse divider to house the fuel and air tanks, receiver, air tubing and all servo wiring. I used a 5/8 thin wall aluminum tube to exit the exhaust from the tune pipe to the rear of the fuse. I made a light carbon fiber tube as a conduit for the wing retracts air tubing and servo leads to travel from the wing into the divided fuse half were the receiver is to help keep the pipe heat from deteriorating the plastic. The 2 front air inlets were opened to make them functional and two side vent were introduce to help in cooling the pipe and the interior on those hot summer days.
I tried knife edges, 4 pointers, rolling circles, inverted flat turns and spins, snaps, hammers heads and it flys them all well with very little correction. It seems to have a little too much right thrust, because the up and down line pull to the right and take a some trim to correct. I'll have to wait until next year to really get things dialed in.
Much Thanks Bill and Wayne.
I bought this EU-1A from Bill back in 2002 and just got around to starting and completing it this Sept.and Oct. Bill wanted to see pictures of the finished plane. So Bill if you get a chance check it out. [sm=cool.gif]
This one worked out better than expected. I was able to keep the weight just under 10lbs. by judicious use of carbon fiber, Kevlar and polyurethane glue.
The wings,stab and rudder are all cored, as much as, possible and glued with polyurethane glue, this kept things really light. I reconfigured the aileron to 3x20 barn door type instead of the normal thin strip ailerons. This give me excellent flap effect and extreme roll rates, if I choose, to swing those massive wings around quickly. I also added lead edge wing tip extensions to produce crisper snaps and to help in prove airflow over the wing for nominal speed increase.
I chose to mount the pipe in the bottom interior of the fuse and use the fuse divider to house the fuel and air tanks, receiver, air tubing and all servo wiring. I used a 5/8 thin wall aluminum tube to exit the exhaust from the tune pipe to the rear of the fuse. I made a light carbon fiber tube as a conduit for the wing retracts air tubing and servo leads to travel from the wing into the divided fuse half were the receiver is to help keep the pipe heat from deteriorating the plastic. The 2 front air inlets were opened to make them functional and two side vent were introduce to help in cooling the pipe and the interior on those hot summer days.
11-23-2003 | 02:41 AM
#27
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From: Chicago, IL
RE: EU-1A
Heres a run down, nose to tail. 70'' length due to extra half inch on rudder and long spinner, wingspan 62".
TrueTurn 2x7/8 Spinner - paint with LustreKote and PPG clear
YS 61AR LS
APC 11x8 - I've tried a Master Airscrew 11x7.5 and APC 11x7 and 11x9. The Master Airscrew really rings out the YS over 15k and grooves the plane nicely but does'nt pull as good as the 11x8. The APC 11x7 also provide high rpm but pulls the worst out of the 4 props used. The 11X9 I think may provide a little more speed once airborne, but take a little long to rotate the plane.
The 11X8 APC seem to be ideal. It pulls good and the plane is airborne in about 100 feet. She flys off the deck just as smooth and level as a F16, F14, F18, etc. taking off.
Dubro 20 oz tank.
SpringAir retracts - 5/32 wire with old PE (Professional Engineering) struts I bought years ago from Tower.
Macs right angled header and tuned pipe with bend at high point, normally used in boats.
Hitec 85 MG on steering, throttle, air valve
Futaba 9303 on Elevator, 9302 on Rudder, 2-9101 on ailerons
Futaba 9CAP radio and 6v 1650 NiMh receiver battery.
Monokote flying surfaces
Lustrekote on the fuse and[/b][/u] PPG[/b][/u] clear to top it off.
All decals are made on the computer with Beldecal decal paper and sprayed with PPG clear.
Two IFC air whistles on the bottom inner wings - With two different tones, it gives a turbine effect
Hinges are all CA cut 1''x 1.5'' and glued with ZAP hinge glue. (I would normally not use CA hinges on a plane like this, but the ZAP hinge glue is unbelievably strong)
White Fiberfrax was used in the fuse to protect the servos from heat in the rear, to protect the battery and nosegear retract from header heat.
Dubro 4-40 pull-pull cable and heavy duty hardware
Dave Brown fiberglassed forked elevator pushrod.
TrueTurn 2x7/8 Spinner - paint with LustreKote and PPG clear
YS 61AR LS
APC 11x8 - I've tried a Master Airscrew 11x7.5 and APC 11x7 and 11x9. The Master Airscrew really rings out the YS over 15k and grooves the plane nicely but does'nt pull as good as the 11x8. The APC 11x7 also provide high rpm but pulls the worst out of the 4 props used. The 11X9 I think may provide a little more speed once airborne, but take a little long to rotate the plane.
The 11X8 APC seem to be ideal. It pulls good and the plane is airborne in about 100 feet. She flys off the deck just as smooth and level as a F16, F14, F18, etc. taking off.
Dubro 20 oz tank.
SpringAir retracts - 5/32 wire with old PE (Professional Engineering) struts I bought years ago from Tower.
Macs right angled header and tuned pipe with bend at high point, normally used in boats.
Hitec 85 MG on steering, throttle, air valve
Futaba 9303 on Elevator, 9302 on Rudder, 2-9101 on ailerons
Futaba 9CAP radio and 6v 1650 NiMh receiver battery.
Monokote flying surfaces
Lustrekote on the fuse and[/b][/u] PPG[/b][/u] clear to top it off.
All decals are made on the computer with Beldecal decal paper and sprayed with PPG clear.
Two IFC air whistles on the bottom inner wings - With two different tones, it gives a turbine effect
Hinges are all CA cut 1''x 1.5'' and glued with ZAP hinge glue. (I would normally not use CA hinges on a plane like this, but the ZAP hinge glue is unbelievably strong)
White Fiberfrax was used in the fuse to protect the servos from heat in the rear, to protect the battery and nosegear retract from header heat.
Dubro 4-40 pull-pull cable and heavy duty hardware
Dave Brown fiberglassed forked elevator pushrod.
