Hey Folks,

Some of you are probable saying oh no not another UCD thread ....here is my issue, I started building but there were not CA hinges in the kit and my local Hobby Shop is out so I worked on other areas, I am totally lost on the wheel pants, I glued the two small pieces together with the half inch hole facing the inside for the axel to go into but when I put it all together the wheel rubs the pant, and how the heck to you get the wheel collar on??? Does it go inside the pant or what??The instructions are unclear at least to me, can someone send me some pics of theirs or explain how to complete this, I used to build RC boats...maybe that my problem.


Thanks,

Mike.

The CA hinges in my UCD kit were one large piece that you have to cut out into individual hinges. Mine was inside the same package as the instruction manual - you may not have recognized it as the hinges. I would not recommed using them though. I have had two break on an elevator and two on an aileron. I don't hate all CA hinges, just the GP brand. Sig Easy CA hinges are nice. For an alternative to CA hinges, I like both the Robart "Point" type hinges and the Dubro door-hinge style. I used both of these alternatives to replace my broken GP CA hinges.

As for the pants, yes, the wheel collars go inside the pant. This is a real trick, as it is difficult to thread a collar, wheel, another collar, and the pant all on the axle at once without dropping the collars a few times. That's right - each wheel gets two collars to hold it in place (it sounds like you may be using one, which would cause the rubbing problem). The two collars inside the pant should be located to keep the wheel from rubbing the pant. It sounds like you are using the wood piece with the hole correctly, it should be glued inside the pant so that the axle end just sits in the hole. Since I fly off grass, I skipped the pants altogether. The UCD is so damned ugly anyway that it doesn't matter!

Hope this helps,
Kurt

Thanks Kurt, ya it did help I will just have to mess with it a little more I appreciate the help..thanks again.


Mike.

Kurts' right, it just takes some work. I slide the wheel pant on, then the first collar, hold that up on the axle so there is just enough room to slide the wheel in, then the last collar after the wheel is on. Using needle nose pliars to hold the last collar helps you get it into the axle, or, balance it on the wheel when you slide the wheel in, and use the needle nose to center it in the axle - dont tighten any collars until the whole assembly is on the axle. Its a pita. I fly off grass, and my wheel pants lasted about 20 flights before they fell apart, you might want to consider leaving them off, they are only cosmetic.
The CA hinges suck. I've read the odd post about folks that have had them work on all kinds of airplanes. I read and exactly duplicated the "method" for installing them, and still they cracked after a short time. Yes they are easy to install now, but later <when> you have to replace them, you'll wish you had used the robart hinge points to begin with.

Roger

This is what happens when you dont buy a Funtana v

The UCD I flew today had a CA hinge break [:@] I wonder when everybody will see the light and go to robarts?

Hmmmm, flew mine HARD all summer and the CA hinges are still fine.

I have read so many threads on CA hinges failing.I must be very lucky.In the at least 8 years of flying aerobatics to the max and the odd crash,I have actually never had one of mine fail......yet.Maybe it is the glue that some people use,and I also have heard of people using accelerator when installing these hinges.That is a big no no.I have flown at least 20 different aircraft on CA's mostly 40 -1.20 size aerobats. my 2 cents

They are alright if you put them in pefectly but why would you want to risk it? They are messy as crap and you get CA on your fingers. I always opt for the robart hinge points. Use a drill guide and epoxy that bad boy in, its "bomb proof" and works like a charm. I have used all sorts of hinges before but after using robarts I wont use anything else.

I like Robarts as well but on many planes there simply isn't enough wood to accept the barb of the Robarts. Unless the edge of the surface you are installing them in is about a half an inch or more it's a gamble that they will hold well. I have had them come loose because of this and having to cut the covering off of an ARF to facilitate adding wood for the hinges is a LOT of undesirable work that many will not be willing to undertake.

The only thing I can figure as to why mine have lasted is that I always bend the surface well past where I know the servo will be moving it while in use. This usually opens up the gap quite a bit but allows for plently of CA hinge material exposure for flexing while in use. It also makes glue application real easy. Of course the consequence of this is a little bit bigger gap, simply seal with a piece of covering and your on your way.

I think part of the reason for the different results that folks see with CA hinges is the fact that not all CA hinges are created equally. I have used Sig's with great sucess on my GP Spacewalker. But the damn Great Planes brand are failing one after another on my UCD. And I do use the installation method outlined in most GP instruction manuals, and I am convinced that I do it correctly. Most GP hardware I have found to be pretty second rate to others such as Dubro, Sullivan, etc. I know this: I will still use CA hinges from time to time, but rest assured they wont be the GP brand.

Kurt

Shogun,

I believe the technique that you use to install CA hinges may be the reason for their longevity. I too leave a bigger hinge line gap and the stock CA hinges on all three of my UCD's are still holding up. Yes three (two 60's and one 46). I was expecting to have crashed a couple by now.

Anyway, I don't mind a larger gap because I have never seen a tight gap or sealed gap stop flutter or improve control surface authority. I've tried it.

Rocketman,

Too much of a gap can cause flutter, its a proven fact. Im not saying that it will do it on every airplane every time but it sure stands a possibility. I have seen it with my own eyes [8D]

Rocketman,

Other than the fact the I run metal geared digi's on the tail of my plane I can't explain it. I have seen MANY CA hinge install's where they were simply to tight and it stressed the hinges to bend them beyond a certain point.

Gotta love that UCD for just a good knock around plane. I have a Sig Cap 231EX on the way that I hope to be flying next spring, should be fun. I noticed the one in your avatar!

Shogun,
One would think that your powerful metal geared digital servos help prevent flutter but UCD's don't seem to flutter even when Futaba S3004 standard ball bearing servos are used all around. In fact, of the six UCD's I've seen fly none have a flutter problem. Two of them make me cringe because they are flown at full throttle with OS 91FX 2-strokes for most of the flight but nothing ever happens. I'm really gun shy about flutter.
By the way, that SIG Cap 231EX you see in my avatar lost one aileron due to flutter and the other aileron stripped a couple of teeth off a gear in a Futaba S9304 core-less ball bearing servo. Caps are not easy to land with one aileron missing and the other one partly deflected and non-functional. It has since been repaired and is flying again with no flutter. And yes you will enjoy yours. It has typical Cap characteristics, a great snap roller, flat spinner, tumbler, knife edger but not all that easy to hover.

southern_touch9,
You are right, a wide gap will not cause flutter on every airplane every time. It is also true that closing the gap and sealing it will not stop flutter on all airplanes every time. Some planes require more drastic action.

No problem with the hinges. Just leave a gap so they don't bind with the extreme 3D throws. As far as flutter on a UCD, if you fly it fast enough to cause flutter......your flying the wrong plane! On the wheel pants don't trim the axles. Drill a 9/64" hole on the outside of the pant inline with the axle and let the tip stick out the other side for support. I've built four of these without any losses. Joe

Just curious as to why people compare or consider the FuntanaS in the same catagory as the UCD? The FuntanaS is a sport/funfly that is capable of 3D. The UCD is designed as a 3D aerobat. Seems to me that there is a big difference between the two. Joe

Dang,
Im hurt ............. I think my U CAN DO is beautiful!

Another thing on those wheel pants. You will see in the instructions that you need to drill a couple of holes on each side through the landong gear and into the wooden block for small wood screws. These guys wear out fast. I took the screws out, epoxied the pants to the landing gear and then worked epoxy into the screw holes and screwed those babies right into it. Those succers wont waller a loose' anymore! Just be neat with the epoxy, let it partailly set so it wont run and if you do it right you cant even tell its there....

Just a quick note on hinges again for the 1,000,000 time. Guys would spend $ 190 for a UCD, another $ 150-200 for an engine, $ 60 for servos, miscellaneous ( battery, switch, fuel filter etc.) $ 30. Total: around $ 480.00. To spend another $ 6 on pinned hinges, they won't. We know that some CA hinges fail for whatever reason, poor installation, wrong glue etc.........., is it not better to spend $ 6 for piece of mind? Why gamble to see if you installed the CA properly and if you used the right glue? Do the math guys. Way before I flew giant scale aerobatic planes, I never even considered the thought using CA hinges, not even on my trainer. I always used pinned hinges and never had a failure. You are constantly flexing a piece of material which does not have a frictionless pivot piont, it will break one day. Please guys do yourself a favour and spend a few bucks on some half decent hinges for your pride and joy OK.