sry for my critisisum of JR but if you try that mix with a little exponential say 30% it can make the manuver much smoother but put it in so it only engages when you pull up elevator it is not good for down cause it some times stalls recovery time and for spacy move it back an 1/2 inch and try that if you feel no difference move it back 1/4 more you should start to see some results. with is back you will notice when you pull into a wall with that mix you will slide forward while vertical cool but rearward CG helpd keep the plane balaced when vertical from my expariments.

I do have the flaperons on all the time. I have one servo go ail. and one go aux. Then, I can use a switch to drop the flaps. It works out great. I shold try the spoils too. Maybe on sunday when i have time!!

I can Wall with a CG at about 5.75", no mixes at all. I just have a good elevator throw (45 degrees) and a fast servo. You pull back on that elevator as fast as you can and the thing goes into it perfectly. It's one of my favorite ways to enter a torque roll on the deck.

Thanks guys. We are heading out again this afternoon. I installed my cowling last night because I think I am going to be happy with te 61 on the front. It does sure have enough power and I needed to tweak it before I butcher the cowling up. I then moved my CG back to 6 inches for testing today. Unfortunately I did not have time last night to actually get stuck into the radio. But I finish work a lot earlier than all my friends so i will have some time at the field to play with mixing before everyone else gets there. I also have some stick on lead with me so if it calls for I can move the CG back a little bit more. I despised the fact that I couldn't get the tail out under the bird down on the deck because I soooooo LOVE the way this plane torque rolls. It really makes for a nice sight.

I just hope this plane doesn't want to bite me again. The maiden sure was hairy but I feel MUCH more confident now that i've flown it a few times. I think the real fun is just about to begin.

Oh I've just printed out the discussion. So this weekend will consist of alot of mixing and tweaking. Monday I'm bound to bring you guys good results.

Thanks for all the help!
Rudolf

Oooo YEAH! Great success with the 'snap spoilerons'. They sure did help alot. I also moved the CG back another 1/4 inch and am confident now that I can go another 1/4 which should put me at 6 1/2. The plane is now starting to look like it wants to flat spin and do the whole thing. Walls are much better as i can very nearly get the nose completely vertical. I'm happy with it as is. I did do a nice 6 point curve for the spoilerons so that there's less when pushing down. Worked out great. Only problem I had the weekend was the engine keeps overheating, I took the cowl off again last night to see if I can get some deflectors in it to get the head cool. Elevators are real easy now and I even manage to harrier it upright with only a little bit of wingrock. I still can't find a way to waterfall it though. It just rolls onto its side and I can't get it to stay level. THANKS inveme! Great advice on your side there!

I did try the flaperons out for a short while as well but they did not prove any better than the spoilerons. I am not a big fan of flicking switches the whole time anyways so I just fly it around on 3D rates with the spoileron mix on all the time.

For engine overheating, how about opening up the bottom of the cowling more?

BTW, I can't get mine to waterfall either. It just goes half way, gets inverted and won't come back upright. I tried using left rudder and it actually did a complete loop once. Not easy though.

I haven't tried doing it upright yet though. Maybe i'll remember next time. Doubt it would work anyhow.

The cowl is cut open alot on the bottom already because the pitt muffler would not fit in anyways and to get the cowl on you have to open it up quite far back as well. The hole's size must be at least close to 5 by 6 inches shaped a little like a heart. I thought about cutting the front holes next to the spinner open more because on the head side the carb is obstructing the port quite a lot. But there is not much one can cut away. The LHS owner said cutting it open more is not going to help. He said the air just takes the shortest route in and then down the bottom of the cowl out the big hole. Bypassing the head of the engine. He suggested glueing in some flat pieces of balsa to direct the air to pass through the head, in other words closing up from the intake right to the engine. This should not be too difficult, it's just going to be alot of work fitting and sanding and then fitting and so on?