I know you have to use the harder tubing as the pressure pulses are absorbed by the flex of the tube rather than the pump diaphragm. I don't have time tonight but I'll try to post some pics with the cowl off. I mounted the pump as close to how the instructions said. The pics should have all the answers to your other questions.
Later,,,basmntdweller

Thanks!

o.k my U CAN DO will fly with 15X6 APC prop on saito 100.

thanks all...

Here's three pics of my engine compartment hopefully you will be able to figure out everything that's goint on. I refuel by removing one end of the jumper line between the two fittings mounted on the cowl.
Later,,,basmntdweller

side view.

one last shot.

HI ALL

HI ALL

HI ALL!!

please help, i must to see a picture of the tail wheel.

Meeko, do you want a pic of a standard tailwhee?

Here's my setup. I used the sullivan tailwheel bracket and made a hook and rubber band deal for steering. I also didn't trust the wood underneath so I epoxied on a piece of 1/8 ply.
Later,,,basmntdweller

flyfalcons:
yes i need a pic of a standard tailwheel,
i'm don't understand the manual...
i dont know if i can
trust in the method in the instructions.

thanx basmntdweller

The stock tailwheel is fine... the bearing is buried in the fuse end and it takes the "brunt" of landing... This plane is such a sweety in landing, that this is PLENTY strong enough...

See attached pic...

mordib thank you VERY VERY MUCH.

<<The stock tailwheel is fine...>>

Until it breaks, or is ripped out by side torsion on a bad landing.

Two of the four flying here have had both things occur.

If every landing is a good one, yes, it is fine.

But this airplane encourages one to 'push the envelope' and try new things; like dragging it along on the prop just above the runway ("high-alpha" flight). The model flies so slowly that you become mesmerized and it gets away from you, and the next you know it has slammed onto it's landing gear. Is that the model's fault? Of course not. But reality sucks, sometimes.

Moral of the story; it is a quick and inexpensive modification to put an easily-replaceable tail wheel unit on the UCD. That "skid" area just in front of the rudder is solid balsa. If you cut a quarter inch or so off, fabricate and install a plywood plate to serve as a base you can screw solidly into, and recover with scraps of MonoKote, you now have a solid platform to firmly attach the after-market tail wheel unit of your choice.

You don't even have to trim down the existing area; my pal just glued a five-ply plate in place and bolted a Sulivan unit right on.

Below is a pic of how I did it; a bit more work, but more aesthetically pleasing, if that sort of thing matters to you. If you look close, you can see where the left rear corner of my plywood plate doesn't quite match up to the tail post of the fuselage, as well as the seams of the scrap MonoKote I covered it with. My primary reason for cutting the "skid" down was to maintain prop clearance; that 16x4W is huge. My pal has no clearance problem on his, but the model does sit quite a bit higher in the rear.

Whatever. If you land the airplane "vigorously" the issue tail wheel unit is not long for this world. YMMV...

Steve

My mileage does vary I guess... but it may also depend on the field... we have a grass field that's smooth like a golf green...

In either case, I thought the stock gear was pretty "hefty" wire... if I remember right anyways... I have swapped out tailgear for other that I had onhand, but am pretty sure the one I used on the U3D is stock...

Certainly wouldn't take but a sec to remove a broken one and go with your proposed type...

Also Meeko.... beef up former under the gear... Mine came loose when I picled it up by the gear...

The stock tailwheel is junk. I like many other people used the Sullivan Talwheel assembly which has worked great. I did not add any wood. I drilled 4 holes and hardened them with CA. I used wood screws with hex heads to tap right into the hardened wood. The setup is very strong.

Hi Guys,

What do you thing of the main gear? Flew mine today with 91FX. Flies great as long as you remember to put klunk in the tank. (Couldn't figure out why motor kept dead sticking). Anyways, I changed out main gear for Dubro fiberglass to stop from spreading mains on landing.

John

WAY too light.... I added some "shocks"

The main reason why I switched from the standard tailwheel to the Sullivan tailwheel is not so much for better taxiing steering response, but to protect my expensive rudder servo. With a non-spring tail wheel unit, a high-G ground maneuver can put great load onto the rudder servo. Even though my rudder servo is metal gear, I still wouldn't risk it.

I think my installation of the Sullivan tailwheel assy is worth your consideration. I carved out a 1/2"x1/2"x1.5" space in the balsa on bottom surface just in front of rudder hinge line. Then I make a piece of 1/2"x1/2"x1.5" basswood, drilled 2 holes and installed the blind nuts included w/ the Sullivan tailwheel assy. Then I epoxy the bass wood w/ the blind nuts. Once the epoxy dries, I covered the wood, poke 2 holes, and fastened the tail wheel bracket. I think it's one of the most sturdy and elegant method for opting the Sullivan tailwheel on this plane.

I went with the stock gear setup. The tailwheel setup is very light and the main gear is springy, to take the landing loads off the wood structure. This thing lands so slow that gear should be much of a consideration unless you can find something lighter.

thank's all....i'm going with the Sullivan tail wheel.
i think it's better, even to the little risk...

love u all AND my UCD.

Meeko

coomarlin

Where did you mount your fuel tank and are you having any problems with excessive flooding of your Saito 100? I've tried both: a perry pump and no pump at all and the fuel is just filling the engine up! I'm getting frustrated and seriously considering mounting the 100 right side up.

My fuel tank is ~ 3 inches back from the stock location. It's back as far as it will go without me needing to cut into the fuse. I am using a Cline regulator with the engine inverted. I am very pleased with this setup. The engine now operates flawlessly. Consistant even power from beginning to end of run. I chose the cline over the perry specifially for that reason. With the cline there is no adjusting to do and there is no fuel entering the engine until the prop spins. It is so simple to use. I fill the tank, hit it with an electric starter and wham! She fires up instantly. No priming, choking, or messing around.There is no adjusts with the cline other than the standard needle adjustments. I'm very pleased.

What coomarlin said. I dont like dragging an electric starter out, so I admit I have to prime on the first cold start of the day, but after that, it hand flips all day long. I think Saito should have included it with the engine.