Why did the Giles G-202 fall off as a 3D plane? Is there something that is wrong with it? I never had one, just curious.

All I know is everyone I have ever flown is terribly tipstally.

Ever flown the Carden? Might change your mind..

Nope cant says I have. Yours looks really nice.

I had a carden as well, was 32lbs with a QS 150=rocket! 3D'd just fine. I could be wrong, but I imagine if QQ or Chip went to flying a Giles again and advertised it, everyone would have to have one. They are a good airplane, just personal preference on them, you either like them or you dont.

My 38% Airwild Giles flies lighter and better than anything that I've flown. There are no tip stalling tendencies whatsoever. However I have flown a great planes g-202 and can not say the same thing about it. It tip stalls like crazy mostly because it is way to heavy for 3-D, nice for imac though. One of my favorite planes is a Yellow Aircraft 120 size g-300 and it's a very fun plane however it too is too heavy for good 3-D work but one hell of a straight flyer and I'm talking slow rolls from horizon to horizon. So keep it light and a Giles is a great plane plus there isn't 25 of them at the flying field every time u go there. Hope this helps. Jamie

I have the GP Giles with a ST-2300 and 17x6 prop. Mine is easier to fly than most trainers. The landings are floaters and I never once have to worry about a tipstall. Mine will take off vertically and keep climbing. Spins, snaps, knife edge loops, the whole nine yards. Its my first 25% but I love this plane. Here is a link with a short clip of my plane for the non-believers. :^)

http://www.spyderrobotics.com/images/giles.wmv

Oh and you can't beat the price. $235 at Tower for the plane and $149 for the engine. Only downfall is it has a 1 piece wing.

VERY nice SPYDER !!!! Maybe my next project....
I assume you have a pitts muffler? How did it balance?

Can it do inverted and flat spins?
Walt...

Very nice video proof. I Giles CAN be built to fly stable

Spyder,

This is GOOD news, and really encouraging!

This airplane has received so much BAD press! I have one on the boards, after having it sit around since 2001. I finally decided, to Hell with the bad press, I am going to build it, and fly it.

I am going to use an OS 1.60. I had a terrible time installing the cowl, it just wouldn't line up right. It seemed like the right thrust built into the cowl didn't match the right thrust built into the firewall.

Would you care to share some of your insight on the build, especially throws, balance, servos, etc.? Did you reinforce the firewall, glass the wing, etc. ?

Pardon me for being so nosy, but your post and video has me pumped!

Thanks in advance for any advice, hints or tips that you care to share.

I'll check the throws later today. The plane was built as stock. Used the stock exhaust. Just rotated the engine so that the exhaust was perfectly centered at the bottom. I have used standard servos throughout with no problems except I did put a HD servo in the rudder knowing it would get knocked around on the ground. My cowl and firewall lined up with no problems. The only issue I had was originally I had problems putting the wing bolts in because the plate inside the fuse is on a angle. I later realized the holes in the wing were not easily allowing me to get to that angle. So I just took carved the top side holes in the wing a hair larger and never had a problem since. Oh, I did have to make a mount for my battery and push it about halfway down the tail to achieve balance.

Are you all refering to the Great Planes .46 kit? I built one this winter... converted it to electric! Haven't had time to maiden it. I built it dispite the bad press about it too!

I have a satio 150 and love the looks of the gp giles..would the 150 be a good match.not looking to do 3D at this point just good aerobatics..

I have a GP Giles 202 powered by a Moki 180, I crashed it a couple of times, once when the engine quit and I tried to stretch the glide resulting in a spin, and another time it tip stalled out of a slow rolling manouever. Now I treat it with more repect and with the engine run in I love it. It is very stable in axial manouevers and will knife edge all day, with no mixing required. Its very different to fly than my Funtana 90 (ASP120 powered), and in alot of ways I prefer it.

Has anyone built the CMP Giles 202 1.40 size (the big green one)?

I'm just getting towards the end of my assembly and it looks gorgeous.

I was just wondering if anyone has any experience of this particular Giles. I have an MVVS 1.60 glow up front with an 18x6 prop.

Plane of the month sydrome. Remember it wasn't long ago that everybody thought the Extra was the best plane going. Everybody had to fly one, because it "flew the best". I read the Aeroworks guys had some TOC pilots try their Edge and they totally hated it at first, then they finally came around after a while. The next year the Edge was the hot plane. The Edge is much better for our uses, has the wing and stab on the thrust line, is very good for precision stuff AND 3D. The newest plane of the month is, of course, the Yak 54. Trimming must be a bear for the precision stuff with that huge open parachute at the front of the plane...


I have a Wild Hare Giles 202 with a ZDZ80 on a cannister. It weighs about 22# 8 oz. It flies much like a pattern plane, smooth and straight. It is exceptionally good at inline snaps (45 degree or vertical up/downline), and is quite good at tumbling and spins. The Giles 202 design is actually a very good pattern design when the fuselage is extended, like the Gator RC plane.

I used to think it couldn't do the 3D stuff until I bumped the elevator throws way up, now it is great. It can perform nice harriers, flat spins, walls, etc. I haven't flown it for a while so I can't tell you about waterfalls, etc. I will let Bill Hempel (I think) show you more [link=http://www.wildharerc.com/Downloads/9meg-g202.wmp.wmv]IN THIS VIDEO FROM THE WILD HARE WEBSITE[/link].

I think the new Giles Ultra Light from Ultra-RC and Ohio Model Products [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3077200/tm.htm]HERE[/link] will change the popular opinion of this great design.


Brett

***EDIT***

Sorry, double post.

Also, something like -5% Rudder->Aileron mix ("top" aileron with rudder) and +7% Rudder->up Elevator trim (up elevator with rudder) = horizon-to-horizon hands-off knife-edge flight. No other IMAC plane I have flown required this little mixing to remove the roll- and pitch-coupling on knife edge.

**EDIT** I should probably spell-check before posting...

Here's a Giles that will 3D like no other 40 size plane I've ever flown.

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin...DGiles202.html

Wingspan is 49" Weight is about 5 pounds. I'm hovering under 1/2 throttle with a Tower .75 engine and a 13-5 prop Zinger.

It needs a few mods to really suite my taste:

There is no tailwheel--only a wire skid. Lousy ground handling. I use a Sullivan medium tailwheel assembly. You need to cut the bottom of the plane open, but it's an easy mod that only takes about an hour or 2. Who wants to fly a plane without a steerable tailwheel?? Not me.

I'm using a TH .75 glow engine--because I fly at rediculously high altitude. It is extremely overpowered--even up here, but I'm hovering at about 1/2 throttle. The problem is the firewall. It's only 2 pieces of 1/8" lite-ply, and it's terribly weak. I have flown this plane before--currently working on assembling the 2nd one. I ripped the FW out after about 75 flights on the first plane. On this second plane, I completely cut the entire firewall out. Took about 2 minutes with a sharp exacto blade. Cheap hot glue.[:'(] I traced the FW and cut a new one from 1/4" hard-ply. I added a bunch of tri-stock. A little sanding and it was ready to glue in. I mixed up a batch of 30 min epoxy and a good amount of microballons and slapped it in. I pinned the sides of the FW through the lite-ply fuse. with bamboo skewers. They are about 1/8" diameter and they soak up thin CA like a dry sponge. Great method for pinning LG, wing mounts, and FW.

If I can use a .75 engine and fly it at high altitude and land at a walk--you guys at sea level should be able to slap a 40--50 engine on it and fly it like a dry leaf.

The stock LG is wire, and it's a bit weak. I replaced it with the LG from the GP Giles kit.

You have the option of using either 1 or 2 elevator servos. I'm using 2 with a JR Matchbox to get them dialed in. Elevator servos need to be low-profile. They are mounted opposite each other in the tail. Not much room--tail is getting thin back there. Rudder servo is mounted inverted in the tail of the fuse. Removable hatch for access to rudder servo.

I'm using JR 9011 on elevators. I had to make a little 1/4" thick block and glue it on the sides of the fuse to space the servos apart----so that they don't hit or touch when installed. JR 9411 mid-coreless digital on rudder. JR 4721 on ailerons and a JR 3021 on the throttle. Battery is 6V 1000mah metal hydride. RX is Hitec 555.

The rudder is one solid piece. No vertical stab--the whole thing moves. Thats why I'm using a 100oz. coreless digital on my rudder. It's extremely subject to flutter with an underpowered servo.

With the upgraded main and tailgear--I'm flying right at 5 pounds. This plane slows down to a walk on landing---and remember, I'm using twice the recommmended engine and I've got heavier mains and tailwheel. Not too mention the JR Matchbox and dual elevator servos. I'm about 4-6oz overloaded, but you could never tell.

Harriers are solid with only very minimal wing rocking. It rocks slow and only when your going REALLY SLOW.

Torque rolls are effortless. Hovering is a breeze. Very stable. Flat spins are rediculous. It will enter a flat spin both inverted and upright. It will spin slow or fast, depending on throttle and throws. I've spun it all the way down to about 50' from the ground and then just release the rudder and add some power. Blenders are blistering. Unbelievable.

It tucks to the gear in knife edge, but I just fly it. No mixing. So- it can't require much to actually mix it out. It will knife edge loop. It will do cartwheels. Walls/terminators are sick. It just POPS when you hog the elevator at slow speed.

It flies inverted with 1 click of down trim.

All the control surfaces are enormous. Counterbalanced elevators.

The covering is neat, but high maintenance. It's cheap chinakote, and it's sticky on the backside. It likes to come unglued at the seams and it won't stick back down when oil gets on it. You have to clean the backside with alcohol and remove all the oil--then stick it down with monokote trim solvent.

I don't know what it takes to hover a 5 pound plane at sea level or lower elevations----but you can definetely count on it weighing about 4.75---5.25 pounds RTF. This is my second one--and they are almost the exact same weight between the 2 planes.

It does need some work--IMO--to really get it tuned up and tweaked-in before flying, but for $100 shipped--you can't beat it for a Giles that will 3D. It's a great all around fun-fly plane.

You can buy it from www.raidentech.com and get it for $99.50 shipped Fedex ground.

My first GS airplane was the GP Giles. I had some engine issues but the airplane was a blast to fly the short time I had it. It tracks like its on rails and if you build it light it is even better. I prefer the Giles and Caps over other designs out there. Dont listen to the stories, just build it!

I am looking at the UltraRC Giles myself for my YS 140 and I also agree once it hits the streets and shows what it can do when built right people will take another look at the Giles!


good luck and keep the vids and pics coming

matt

Hi Pete,

I am currently putting together one with a YS 1.40. I am impressed with some of the features of this kit and hope it flies as good as it looks.

Paul

ive almost finished assembling my cmpro 202 140 size, and mostly im very impressed with it.
its my first 140 size plane. its quite light but also seems strong enough.
ive got an OS160fx/18X6 up front so it should go vertical without any effort at all.

it also looks great, but i did have problems with the canopy hatch - it doesnt fit and will need some filing to fit snugly.
the cowling also came a bit warped, but once on the plane and screwed down it looks fine.
rest of the plane is decent to very nice.

only problem now is that i cannot source a reversing lead for the 2nd elevator servo anywhere! so i cant fly it!

when the one i have on order finally does come in i will let you know how it goes!

Why get a mixer? I just ran extensions from the servo's each to a separate channel on the receiver then mix the two channels on the computer radio and reverse one. Doh, I suppose that only works if you have a computer radio.

i could use a mixer but then its a bastd to trim.
and then i would need a long extension lead for the 2nd servo, and god knows that would have to be out of stock too!