twn

LMAO, U KNOW IT!

We are still recovering from xmas stupid spending. My other half LOVES Christmas so I don't complain and I don't buy during this time. Keeps me safe (physically, lol) I've always liked the looks of pitts python and pitts challenger, reminiscent of an ultimate! I don't know how they fly myself.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Tater, I used the tank that was supplied with the kit. No problems after 3 years of FUN!!

aussieflyer2214

I thought the stock tank that came w/ plane was too big for Gasser/DA-50? Can use it, with the correct mods for gassers?

thanks,
Austin

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Of course...just make sure you use Tygon tubing and swap the stopper for one that is dedicated for gasoline.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I'm running a DL50 with a 16oz tank and use about half the tank in a 12 minute. You could probably use a 12oz tank.

Chuck

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Codfish,
I do not have a load tester, so I will buy a good one. Can you recommend one? (I don't really have the time to make one). I like the simple approach that you are taking. Are the Hobbico Hydramax Ultra NiMh a decent battery? I am using them in several smaller planes and I have had no problems.
Another thing that I would like to do with this plane is to install a smoke pump (Sullivan Skywriter). Can I tap into the receiver battery for this , or, should I use another battery?

Your help, and all of the other posters help, is greatly appreciated. This NEWBIE is slowly but surely learning. And, I know I probably seem a little anal about all of this, but as Tom said in his last post, "I don't want to lose a $2,000 plane"

Thanks,
Bob

codfish

DA-50 needs a 20-22 oz tank. that is about 600cc tank. not sure what comes with the plane but i bet it's written on the side. sure, convert the stopper and internal flex hose using dubro's stopper conversion kit. the stopper and line need to be neoprene (or tygon). Just be sure to use barbs and/or tiewraps on the flex tube inside the tank, ortherwise they WILL come off after a few flights giving you a deadstick. Its not like glow fuel and silicone tubing. you must use barbs and/or tiewraps everywhere!

codfish

There are plenty load testers out there, but i only use my own since i can adjust it to what i want. I'll have to leave it to other posters to reccomend one. I do have the 8-ball tester from Fromeco, but i use my own.

I have no experience with Hydramax battery so i cannot comment.

Dont tap into the receiver battery, tap into the ignition battery for the smoke system, or are yuo using one battery for all?

Robert Strouse

Bob,

Don't worry about being anal. However, there is nothing cheaper than a good power and switch system for your plane and nothing more expensive than a substandard one. I've been at this a very long time and have been both a victim and a witness over and over again. At any rate, I have been through the gambit of batteries and procedures to try to make sure they don't fail. Throughout the years there was a new gold standard about every five of years in battery technology. I've been through them all dry-cell, alkaline, NiCd, NiMh, LiPO, Li-ion, and now LiPO4. At each stage I swore that I would never go back to the one before. This couldn't ring more true today. I have a whole drawer full of paperweights that were great high end batteries. If I add it up it's a small fortune. That being said the worst offenders in that pile are the NiMh. Some not even making it an entire season.

As for bad behavior they all seem to have at least one. On the least fuss category are A123 and the next least fuss is NiCd. A NiMH battery shouldn't be trusted for two full seasons. And if you regularly test them they won't. If you don't then the plane probably won't last two seasons. Either way I guess the pack will get replaced. I've tried a variety of cells all claiming to be the best of the best including the famed KAN cells. If you must not use A123 because you are saving a buck, then take a tip from tater and go old school on the NiCd. Otherwise I don't think you're saving a buck.

With the A123s I never have to mess with them and I continue to abuse them. They don't appreciably self discharge. The can crank out more sustainable constant power than your servo leads can handle. And they don't build up hydrogen and blow a hole in your plane. Just so you know NiMH can false peak in either direction and guess what - no flameout like LiPO just a pretty loud bang, a big hole, and a lot of black dust. I've seen LiPO flame out twice although I have never experienced it. I have however had the bloated dead fish pack that everyone dreads. Just leave the plane on once and come back next week. It's a really cool $200 duralite mistake. Do it more than once and you kinda tear up - ok flat out bawl like a little child.

BTW you can't field test A123s which is one of their great characteristics, the hardest habit to break, and the rallying cry of their detractors. If you try they will continue to rock the meter right up until the time they don't rock it anymore. Their low pack resistance makes them crank out the power right up until they have no more power. Simply monitor how many mah you put back in when you top them off. Less trouble and more accurate than the field test and it takes just about as much time to throw on a charge as it does to throw in a tank of fuel and bust out the load tester. As for discharge cycles the claim is 2000+ at any rate many of my packs have more discharge cycles on them than any one in that pile in the drawer.

Robert

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Robert,
I only have time for a quick reply as I am headed out to work, but you have convinced me that A123 is the way to go. Thanks for taking the time to help me through this. I will look at Duralites and the NoBS batteries. I'll let you know how I make out.
Thanks!!!

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I have used the VOLTMASTER load tester from Ace RC for many years. It is analog metered...old school, I know, but I rather use it than anything I have seen out there.
The battery issue you guys have going is like placing democrats against republicans IMO. Any type of battery is subject to failure. It's just like your automobile, you take care of it and it will give you great service...if you don't, then expect the worst.

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Codfish,
I decided to make one of your home made load testers. I purchased 2 resistors at Radio Shack per your instructions. Since it is already obvious to everybody that I am a knucklehead when it comes to electronics, could you possibly post a closeup picture of your tester so that I may copy it?
Thanks,
Bob

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Well, I received my DLE 55 yesterday from Tower. It looks like a really nice motor. The muffler looks a little cheesy though. No matter, I am going to use one of the Jtec wraparounds. Does anybody know if there is an appreciable difference in noise between the small and the large Jtec wraparound? I don't even know if the large one will fit in the Ultimate.

tater1

I have the jtec pitts style muffler,and it fits,althought I needed 1/2" added to the standoffs to clear the firewall,when I ordered this muffler the jtec people did not mention anything about 2 different sizes,so not sure which one I have.Jtec did mention to specify that it was for a DL50 as they were adamant that the mounting holes where different than the DA50,TWN has some previous posts here about using the Pitts style muffler so he may be able to shed some light on this topic.

tiger650

My Feedback: (22)

Thanks tater!

twn

Tater, if u want my honest opinion, only use the pitts muffler if u need the added weight. I found that I lost 200+ rpm using the bisson pitts. I put the stock dl muffler back on and WOW what a difference. Seriously, big differance. To get mine to balace with the stock muffler I just moved my engine forward 1/16"...

I killed my pos stock dl muffler, pipe broke at end of last season. Kinda funny, Stacy broke one of his mufflers ( [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYwe6IC5nrI]during this flight[/link] ) on his 3w 212 on the same day as me. We were both running the liquid steel to get those last few flights that day. I got Lester to order me a quality DA50 stock muffler to replace it.

DL engines are awsome, their stock mufflers are garbage...

aussieflyer2214

Any Ultimate flyers w/ DA-50s:

Can you all post pics of your firewall/motor box? I'm looking for some ideas and I need to visually take notes. Thanks a ton. I've got 2.5" standoffs and I'm not sure if I'll have enough room for my pitts muffler, and the .5" spacers that came w plane aren't same diameter as DAs standoffs. Should I buy 3" standoffs? Or can I drop engine below center of firewall to clear the pitts muffler?

Any and all suggestions/pics much appreciated. Got wings all glued, made plywood joiners and used Robart hinges on wings...coming together nicely! So excited to maiden this bad boy!


Austin

Robert Strouse

Austin,

Take a 3/4" - 1" diameter hardwood dowel and cut to length. Make sure you get them cut square by running them through a miter saw or similar. Then drill a hole in the middle for the bolts into the standoffs. Harden each end with thin CA by putting some in a cup and dipping the end of the dowel in it. After they have dried (I let them air dry - no kicker), simply put these up against the firewall between the spacers and you are all set. Theoretically this is even better than longer standoffs since it will reduce the engine twist that occurs on standoffs. These hardwood spacers will be more rigid against the firewall and reduce the compression that often occurs. On the back side of the firewall I like to take a 3/4" hole saw and make some donuts out of 1/8" birch ply. Then I use 3/4" fender washers to keep the whole thing from compressing and epoxy the donuts to the inside of the firewall. In the end it is really rigid and the common standoff flex is reduced.

Robert

tater1

hello Tom;

The build is coming along,I looked through all the pictures but did not see any ones that show the backing plates used for the horns,did you just screw the aileron horns on using the supplied sheet metal screws,after hardening the holes with thin ca?,What do you think about the suggested pushrods that are shown for the aileron control surfaces?I was thinking carbon fiber rods with ball link attachments,but I defer to the experts here.All the best.

tater1

hello Robert:

I like your idea for the standoffs,did you also do the tooth pick thing?,or was the dowel and doughnut treatment sufficient?

Robert Strouse

Nope just dowels and donuts - but twice the calories.

twn

David, ball links will add a lot of tail weight. I just used the kit supplied stuff. ca hardened the screw holes... I've seen other ultimate 160s where the builder has put the plate on the other side and bolted them together. I don't know if this is needed... Stacy tortured the snot out of my ultimate and all held.

kaboomski

Austin,

This is how Iused the 2.5" standoffs with the .5" spacers to do the job. Ihope this helps.

kaboomski;

aussieflyer2214

kaboomski:

Thanks for pic. Did you have any problems using 2 sets of standoffs? Loosening, vibrations,etc?

kaboomski

I've had no problems with this setup which Ihave had for four years now. Just remember to put some Loctite.

kaboomski;