Great planes ultimate 160
09-26-2011, 06:35 AM
#6676
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: Uncas
As a follow up to an earlier post, I reported my upper port wing strut bolt coming loose. Hanging on only by a thread or two when it landed. It seems no matter how tight I tighten it, that bolt eventually works itself loose. But just that bolt, no others.
This plane still remains one of the best planes I have ever flown.
As a follow up to an earlier post, I reported my upper port wing strut bolt coming loose. Hanging on only by a thread or two when it landed. It seems no matter how tight I tighten it, that bolt eventually works itself loose. But just that bolt, no others.
This plane still remains one of the best planes I have ever flown.
*Should reduce the vibration which causes your bolt to loosen up*
How to end up using only a single tool to attach your upper wing bolts in the center cabane;
1) Drill out both the upper wing attachment plate (in wing) & the two center cabane bolt holes larger.
* Not certain, but I believe I went with 10-32 possibly.*
2) Use appropriate nuts with nylon inserts built into them.
3) Where the bolt NUTS normally go, sand the paint off.
4) W/O the wing, assemble the bolts into that center cabane and tighten them.
5) Apply a liberal amount of JB Weld to the nuts/cabane area.
6) Let sit 24 hours (JB Weld is nothing more than basic epoxy w/metal dust in it.)
When complete you now only need to use a single tool (Dubro long reach ball driver) to attach your center cabane bolts!
Cool huh!
.
.
09-26-2011, 06:47 PM
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
Well, I bought a Great Planes slot machine to cut the slots for the HD dubro hinges....I forgot to buy the bigger blades though. Back to the hobby shop tomorrow. Im thinking of going ahead and pinning my firewall....I am going the skewer method. Do I drill the holes the same size as the skewer or just slightly bigger to epoxy them? CA or EPOXY?
10-23-2011, 07:08 PM
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: iflywhenican
Blackbird, Make it a point to ALWAYS use metal geared servo's on any gas plane. Also, do everything you can to aliveate any source of vibration...such as: balance your prop, spinner, etc. After you finish your build, and before your maiden, do a slow engine run-up and notice if there is any pronounced vibration, if there is...FIND the source!! You will be glad you did.
Blackbird, Make it a point to ALWAYS use metal geared servo's on any gas plane. Also, do everything you can to aliveate any source of vibration...such as: balance your prop, spinner, etc. After you finish your build, and before your maiden, do a slow engine run-up and notice if there is any pronounced vibration, if there is...FIND the source!! You will be glad you did.
Metal geared servos are not always the best or required for gas powered aircraft. Nylon geared servos are more precise and have much less slop than metal geared servos. Flutter can start due to slop in the gear train. Metal gears won't help preventing a failure during excessive flutter. Seen aircraft "explode" for no apparent reason during high speed flight. Think turbine aircraft here. BTW, a number of the sponsored giant scale aerobatic aircraft have been rigged with non-metal geared servos in the past even though metal geared servos were on hand. (I have not attended any major meets for more than 5 years.)
I agree that vibration can be a killer of good aircraft, especially when screws or bolts back out! Proper balancing of props is a must as this is typically the single largest source of excessive vibration.
My Ultimate is rigged with S9252 servos on ailerons and elevators and power is provided by a DLE55. It is a number of years old and still does the sickest blenders and flat spins. This aircraft is one of my all time favorites for windy day flying, like today. The achilles heel of this aircraft is the lousy stock landing gear. I took care of that by making my own 6061T6511 aluminum gear.
Bliksem
10-24-2011, 12:02 AM
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: blikseme300
........................Nylon geared servos are more precise and have much less slop than metal geared servos. Flutter can start due to slop in the gear train. Metal gears won't help preventing a failure during excessive flutter. Seen aircraft ''explode'' for no apparent reason during high speed flight..............
I agree that vibration can be a killer of good aircraft, especially when screws or bolts back out! Proper balancing of props is a must as this is typically the single largest source of excessive vibration.
Bliksem
........................Nylon geared servos are more precise and have much less slop than metal geared servos. Flutter can start due to slop in the gear train. Metal gears won't help preventing a failure during excessive flutter. Seen aircraft ''explode'' for no apparent reason during high speed flight..............
I agree that vibration can be a killer of good aircraft, especially when screws or bolts back out! Proper balancing of props is a must as this is typically the single largest source of excessive vibration.
Bliksem
;Nylon gears are not cut but rather molded, and don't have the precision of a cut metal gear.
Flutter starts with too much gap in control surfaces, with an adverse effect in airflow over & under,
creating an undesirable effect, with a hammering of a servo's internal gear train. Such is further exasperated
with linkages that have too much slop.
I too, have seen models explode in flight as well as servos gear trains fail before getting airborne....nylon geared servos.
Yes, props are #1 regarding a source of vibration, but an improperly tuned eng is also a contributor.
I'll keep on using metal geared servos in my gassers thank-you very much![sm=thumbs_up.gif]
10-24-2011, 03:26 AM
#6683
RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: blikseme300
Not picking on anyone here, just happened to read this post.
Metal geared servos are not always the best or required for gas powered aircraft. Nylon geared servos are more precise and have much less slop than metal geared servos. Flutter can start due to slop in the gear train. Metal gears won't help preventing a failure during excessive flutter. Seen aircraft ''explode'' for no apparent reason during high speed flight. Think turbine aircraft here. BTW, a number of the sponsored giant scale aerobatic aircraft have been rigged with non-metal geared servos in the past even though metal geared servos were on hand. (I have not attended any major meets for more than 5 years.)
I agree that vibration can be a killer of good aircraft, especially when screws or bolts back out! Proper balancing of props is a must as this is typically the single largest source of excessive vibration.
My Ultimate is rigged with S9252 servos on ailerons and elevators and power is provided by a DLE55. It is a number of years old and still does the sickest blenders and flat spins. This aircraft is one of my all time favorites for windy day flying, like today. The achilles heel of this aircraft is the lousy stock landing gear. I took care of that by making my own 6061T6511 aluminum gear.
Bliksem
ORIGINAL: iflywhenican
Blackbird, Make it a point to ALWAYS use metal geared servo's on any gas plane. Also, do everything you can to aliveate any source of vibration...such as: balance your prop, spinner, etc. After you finish your build, and before your maiden, do a slow engine run-up and notice if there is any pronounced vibration, if there is...FIND the source!! You will be glad you did.
Blackbird, Make it a point to ALWAYS use metal geared servo's on any gas plane. Also, do everything you can to aliveate any source of vibration...such as: balance your prop, spinner, etc. After you finish your build, and before your maiden, do a slow engine run-up and notice if there is any pronounced vibration, if there is...FIND the source!! You will be glad you did.
Metal geared servos are not always the best or required for gas powered aircraft. Nylon geared servos are more precise and have much less slop than metal geared servos. Flutter can start due to slop in the gear train. Metal gears won't help preventing a failure during excessive flutter. Seen aircraft ''explode'' for no apparent reason during high speed flight. Think turbine aircraft here. BTW, a number of the sponsored giant scale aerobatic aircraft have been rigged with non-metal geared servos in the past even though metal geared servos were on hand. (I have not attended any major meets for more than 5 years.)
I agree that vibration can be a killer of good aircraft, especially when screws or bolts back out! Proper balancing of props is a must as this is typically the single largest source of excessive vibration.
My Ultimate is rigged with S9252 servos on ailerons and elevators and power is provided by a DLE55. It is a number of years old and still does the sickest blenders and flat spins. This aircraft is one of my all time favorites for windy day flying, like today. The achilles heel of this aircraft is the lousy stock landing gear. I took care of that by making my own 6061T6511 aluminum gear.
Bliksem
I'm going to argue a few points here. I would never ever rely on any nylon geared servo on any type of gas airplane no matter what the results. I have seen way too many nylon geared servos on 50cc plane tear apart. Now you can get away with it but the risk to safety, for me, is just too great. You have to remember that once you get into gas, safety concerns must take priority. Trying to save a few bucks on cheaper servos just is not the thing to do. Blenders and such are not that hard on a servo. Once the initial load is there, right at the start of the maneuver, the pilot can reduce or eliminate that load fairly quickly. That's one reason why a blender can wind up as fast as it does, lots of throw is the other main reason. Think about it. If you have ever been in any plane, the initial movement is where you feel the load, once that maneuver is started, then the load drops off to a certain degree or depending pn what the pilot does, the loads goes away completely.
Another point that was stated is metal geared servos not being very accurate. I have never seen that problem with Titanium geared servos and new metal geared servos, UNLESS you go to the JR sport servos. They are sloppy right out of the box. A good set of metal geared servos will last a long time under most conditions.
As an IMAC pilot, I would never ever trust my planes to anything other than good quality metal gear. The differences in safety far out way the savings in cost. I would rather have to replace gear sets every season (JR 8611a, 8711, is known for this) than to risk any one of my planes possibly going out of control and heading for the pit area, the mental anguish for me having possibly caused an injury to a bystander because I tried to save a few bucks, is just not something I wish to ever deal with. Also, I'll bet if I flew your plane and take it through the trimming chart procedures I'll find some blowback on the ailerons and elevators.
I am curious, you did not say what you are using on your rudder
Now, I'll bet I could easily strip those nylon geared Futaba servos on the elevator on this bipe. Been there, done it.
In closing, I'll put it this way. I'll take a sloppy metal geared servo that will cost me $30 each to replace the gear set over nylon any day
10-24-2011, 10:47 AM
#6684
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
Uncas, Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of the knurled knob,install thestruton the wing and tighten finger tight. Staighten out a paperclip and push it thru the 1/8 hole bending the clip into a horseshoe shape should lock itin position on the strut itself, shouldn't back outif it can't rotate....
Mike
Mike
10-24-2011, 03:17 PM
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
"I'll bet I could easily strip those nylon geared Futaba servos on the elevator on this bipe. Been there, done it."
"Been there...done that!!!" Did it on the elevator servo of my Miss America P-51...stripped the nylon gear under hardly any load at all.
But, on the other hand...I have a great friend that designs, builds and flies pattern planes in competitions and is a past US Champion and he will use nothing other than nylon geared servos...I asked him why and his answer is, "I cannot get the close and tight response from metal geared servos that I get from nylon geared servos." I can see much argument there, but when I see all the awards, trophies and so on that backs up his claim, I cannot argue with him.
"Been there...done that!!!" Did it on the elevator servo of my Miss America P-51...stripped the nylon gear under hardly any load at all.
But, on the other hand...I have a great friend that designs, builds and flies pattern planes in competitions and is a past US Champion and he will use nothing other than nylon geared servos...I asked him why and his answer is, "I cannot get the close and tight response from metal geared servos that I get from nylon geared servos." I can see much argument there, but when I see all the awards, trophies and so on that backs up his claim, I cannot argue with him.
10-24-2011, 04:00 PM
#6686
RE: Great planes ultimate 160
Hi Ben,
Long time no talk to.
I understand what you are saying, but think about the plane itself. typically a pattern plane is a very specialized plane that is design to fly straight and true by messing with the wing angles, elevator/stab placement and vertical stabilizer. What all that means is you are now removing quite a bit of load off of the servo since it only needs to move a very small amount to achieve the desired result. Plus I'd bet anything his geometry is perfect or very very close to it which also helps remove load from a servo
Think back when the GP Cap232 came out. I know you followed some of the threads that were on here about that plane and one of the most problems everyone had was way too much elevator throw. I convinced several take the throw from 1/2 inch on low rates to 3/8 inch and loads of people found that the Cap was way easier to fly and could still pull a very tight 90 degree turn, loop or whatever change in direction they wanted to do. Why, simply because the elevators on a Cap that is close to the real thing will have the elevator right on the thrust line, thus they become really powerful.
On my 40% Carden Cap 232, I use a single JR8611a on each side and after 250+ flights I have never wore out the metal gears and they are nice and tight because max throw is 1/2 inch for IMAC type flying. IZ had togo to titanium gears every where else to keep thing tight
Really we are talking about nylon on gas powered planes
Long time no talk to.
I understand what you are saying, but think about the plane itself. typically a pattern plane is a very specialized plane that is design to fly straight and true by messing with the wing angles, elevator/stab placement and vertical stabilizer. What all that means is you are now removing quite a bit of load off of the servo since it only needs to move a very small amount to achieve the desired result. Plus I'd bet anything his geometry is perfect or very very close to it which also helps remove load from a servo
Think back when the GP Cap232 came out. I know you followed some of the threads that were on here about that plane and one of the most problems everyone had was way too much elevator throw. I convinced several take the throw from 1/2 inch on low rates to 3/8 inch and loads of people found that the Cap was way easier to fly and could still pull a very tight 90 degree turn, loop or whatever change in direction they wanted to do. Why, simply because the elevators on a Cap that is close to the real thing will have the elevator right on the thrust line, thus they become really powerful.
On my 40% Carden Cap 232, I use a single JR8611a on each side and after 250+ flights I have never wore out the metal gears and they are nice and tight because max throw is 1/2 inch for IMAC type flying. IZ had togo to titanium gears every where else to keep thing tight
Really we are talking about nylon on gas powered planes
10-24-2011, 04:29 PM
#6687
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: bubbagates
I'm going to argue a few points here. I would never ever rely on any nylon geared servo on any type of gas airplane no matter what the results. I have seen way too many nylon geared servos on 50cc plane tear apart. Now you can get away with it but the risk to safety, for me, is just too great. You have to remember that once you get into gas, safety concerns must take priority. Trying to save a few bucks on cheaper servos just is not the thing to do. Blenders and such are not that hard on a servo. Once the initial load is there, right at the start of the maneuver, the pilot can reduce or eliminate that load fairly quickly. That's one reason why a blender can wind up as fast as it does, lots of throw is the other main reason. Think about it. If you have ever been in any plane, the initial movement is where you feel the load, once that maneuver is started, then the load drops off to a certain degree or depending pn what the pilot does, the loads goes away completely.
Another point that was stated is metal geared servos not being very accurate. I have never seen that problem with Titanium geared servos and new metal geared servos, UNLESS you go to the JR sport servos. They are sloppy right out of the box. A good set of metal geared servos will last a long time under most conditions.
As an IMAC pilot, I would never ever trust my planes to anything other than good quality metal gear. The differences in safety far out way the savings in cost. I would rather have to replace gear sets every season (JR 8611a, 8711, is known for this) than to risk any one of my planes possibly going out of control and heading for the pit area, the mental anguish for me having possibly caused an injury to a bystander because I tried to save a few bucks, is just not something I wish to ever deal with. Also, I'll bet if I flew your plane and take it through the trimming chart procedures I'll find some blowback on the ailerons and elevators.
I am curious, you did not say what you are using on your rudder
Now, I'll bet I could easily strip those nylon geared Futaba servos on the elevator on this bipe. Been there, done it.
In closing, I'll put it this way. I'll take a sloppy metal geared servo that will cost me $30 each to replace the gear set over nylon any day
ORIGINAL: blikseme300
Not picking on anyone here, just happened to read this post.
Metal geared servos are not always the best or required for gas powered aircraft. Nylon geared servos are more precise and have much less slop than metal geared servos. Flutter can start due to slop in the gear train. Metal gears won't help preventing a failure during excessive flutter. Seen aircraft ''explode'' for no apparent reason during high speed flight. Think turbine aircraft here. BTW, a number of the sponsored giant scale aerobatic aircraft have been rigged with non-metal geared servos in the past even though metal geared servos were on hand. (I have not attended any major meets for more than 5 years.)
I agree that vibration can be a killer of good aircraft, especially when screws or bolts back out! Proper balancing of props is a must as this is typically the single largest source of excessive vibration.
My Ultimate is rigged with S9252 servos on ailerons and elevators and power is provided by a DLE55. It is a number of years old and still does the sickest blenders and flat spins. This aircraft is one of my all time favorites for windy day flying, like today. The achilles heel of this aircraft is the lousy stock landing gear. I took care of that by making my own 6061T6511 aluminum gear.
Bliksem
ORIGINAL: iflywhenican
Blackbird, Make it a point to ALWAYS use metal geared servo's on any gas plane. Also, do everything you can to aliveate any source of vibration...such as: balance your prop, spinner, etc. After you finish your build, and before your maiden, do a slow engine run-up and notice if there is any pronounced vibration, if there is...FIND the source!! You will be glad you did.
Blackbird, Make it a point to ALWAYS use metal geared servo's on any gas plane. Also, do everything you can to aliveate any source of vibration...such as: balance your prop, spinner, etc. After you finish your build, and before your maiden, do a slow engine run-up and notice if there is any pronounced vibration, if there is...FIND the source!! You will be glad you did.
Metal geared servos are not always the best or required for gas powered aircraft. Nylon geared servos are more precise and have much less slop than metal geared servos. Flutter can start due to slop in the gear train. Metal gears won't help preventing a failure during excessive flutter. Seen aircraft ''explode'' for no apparent reason during high speed flight. Think turbine aircraft here. BTW, a number of the sponsored giant scale aerobatic aircraft have been rigged with non-metal geared servos in the past even though metal geared servos were on hand. (I have not attended any major meets for more than 5 years.)
I agree that vibration can be a killer of good aircraft, especially when screws or bolts back out! Proper balancing of props is a must as this is typically the single largest source of excessive vibration.
My Ultimate is rigged with S9252 servos on ailerons and elevators and power is provided by a DLE55. It is a number of years old and still does the sickest blenders and flat spins. This aircraft is one of my all time favorites for windy day flying, like today. The achilles heel of this aircraft is the lousy stock landing gear. I took care of that by making my own 6061T6511 aluminum gear.
Bliksem
I'm going to argue a few points here. I would never ever rely on any nylon geared servo on any type of gas airplane no matter what the results. I have seen way too many nylon geared servos on 50cc plane tear apart. Now you can get away with it but the risk to safety, for me, is just too great. You have to remember that once you get into gas, safety concerns must take priority. Trying to save a few bucks on cheaper servos just is not the thing to do. Blenders and such are not that hard on a servo. Once the initial load is there, right at the start of the maneuver, the pilot can reduce or eliminate that load fairly quickly. That's one reason why a blender can wind up as fast as it does, lots of throw is the other main reason. Think about it. If you have ever been in any plane, the initial movement is where you feel the load, once that maneuver is started, then the load drops off to a certain degree or depending pn what the pilot does, the loads goes away completely.
Another point that was stated is metal geared servos not being very accurate. I have never seen that problem with Titanium geared servos and new metal geared servos, UNLESS you go to the JR sport servos. They are sloppy right out of the box. A good set of metal geared servos will last a long time under most conditions.
As an IMAC pilot, I would never ever trust my planes to anything other than good quality metal gear. The differences in safety far out way the savings in cost. I would rather have to replace gear sets every season (JR 8611a, 8711, is known for this) than to risk any one of my planes possibly going out of control and heading for the pit area, the mental anguish for me having possibly caused an injury to a bystander because I tried to save a few bucks, is just not something I wish to ever deal with. Also, I'll bet if I flew your plane and take it through the trimming chart procedures I'll find some blowback on the ailerons and elevators.
I am curious, you did not say what you are using on your rudder
Now, I'll bet I could easily strip those nylon geared Futaba servos on the elevator on this bipe. Been there, done it.
In closing, I'll put it this way. I'll take a sloppy metal geared servo that will cost me $30 each to replace the gear set over nylon any day
I respect your experience and opinion.
Stripping servos can be easy if you are rough with the sticks and at high energy, IMHO. Breaking anything has never been a reasonable challenge, anybody can do it if trying hard enough. The rudder servo is a JR 8611A, BTW. Rudder is the only control on which I have ever stripped a servo gear train.
The S9252 & S9151 are not economy servos so saving a few bucks has never been the deciding factor. I am not a noobie with gassers as you seem to imply and resent the implication of being irresponsible and unsafe. Any servo, no mater what brand or model, can be destroyed due to misuse or abuse. Seen this too many times.
I never buy economy servos so have no experience with them.
Bliksem
10-24-2011, 05:36 PM
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
Hey guys on my DLE 55 template....just line up the lines on the firewall to the lines on the template. I know this is probably a dumb question....but I want to make sure before I drill
Thanks
10-24-2011, 09:12 PM
#6689
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: huntndux
Hey guys on my DLE 55 template....just line up the lines on the firewall to the lines on the template. I know this is probably a dumb question....but I want to make sure before I drill
Hey guys on my DLE 55 template....just line up the lines on the firewall to the lines on the template. I know this is probably a dumb question....but I want to make sure before I drill
Thanks
Something else to make note of;
Even though the firewall has some right thrust built into it, in a hover it will still pull to the left hard.
I put a couple thin fiber washers in, between the mount extensions & the firewall. Only do that on two of the four
at the firewall, to increase the right thrust. Metal washers are often too thick, fiber washers can be found at various
Ace Hardware stores.
10-25-2011, 10:17 AM
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
"Really we are talking about nylon on gas powered planes."
Yep. fully understand that. I won't ever and have never used them on a gasser of any type. I preach eliminating all the vibration that you possibly can even though using metal gear servos...I think that we all have seen what that can lead up to...
[
]
No apoligies needed either Bill....I have always respected your views from the very beginning of this thread.
I am still flying my ORIGNAL Ultimate after all this time!!!!! (knocks on wood and does very close maintenance and preflights)
Yep. fully understand that. I won't ever and have never used them on a gasser of any type. I preach eliminating all the vibration that you possibly can even though using metal gear servos...I think that we all have seen what that can lead up to...
[] No apoligies needed either Bill....I have always respected your views from the very beginning of this thread.
I am still flying my ORIGNAL Ultimate after all this time!!!!! (knocks on wood and does very close maintenance and preflights)
10-25-2011, 04:04 PM
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: mstcitabria73
Uncas, Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of the knurled knob, install the strut on the wing and tighten finger tight. Staighten out a paperclip and push it thru the 1/8 hole bending the clip into a horseshoe shape should lock it in position on the strut itself, shouldn't back out if it can't rotate....
Mike
Uncas, Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of the knurled knob, install the strut on the wing and tighten finger tight. Staighten out a paperclip and push it thru the 1/8 hole bending the clip into a horseshoe shape should lock it in position on the strut itself, shouldn't back out if it can't rotate....
Mike
10-26-2011, 03:17 AM
#6693
RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: iflywhenican
''Really we are talking about nylon on gas powered planes.''
Yep. fully understand that. I won't ever and have never used them on a gasser of any type. I preach eliminating all the vibration that you possibly can even though using metal gear servos...I think that we all have seen what that can lead up to...[]
No apoligies needed either Bill....I have always respected your views from the very beginning of this thread.
I am still flying my ORIGNAL Ultimate after all this time!!!!! (knocks on wood and does very close maintenance and preflights)
''Really we are talking about nylon on gas powered planes.''
Yep. fully understand that. I won't ever and have never used them on a gasser of any type. I preach eliminating all the vibration that you possibly can even though using metal gear servos...I think that we all have seen what that can lead up to...
[] No apoligies needed either Bill....I have always respected your views from the very beginning of this thread.
I am still flying my ORIGNAL Ultimate after all this time!!!!! (knocks on wood and does very close maintenance and preflights)
. I'm working on the 150cc 20-300 from Aeroworks right now. I got to toss one of these around earlier this year that was powered by a DA170 on grieves pipes and OMG. Think of the GP Ultimaten bipe with a Da60 in it and weighing only 16.5ibs which just so happens to be how my GP Ultimate is poweredAre you still on all the original equipment or have you changed it a bit
10-26-2011, 03:24 AM
#6694
RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: blikseme300
bubbagates,
I respect your experience and opinion.
Stripping servos can be easy if you are rough with the sticks and at high energy, IMHO. Breaking anything has never been a reasonable challenge, anybody can do it if trying hard enough. The rudder servo is a JR 8611A, BTW. Rudder is the only control on which I have ever stripped a servo gear train.
The S9252 & S9151 are not economy servos so saving a few bucks has never been the deciding factor. I am not a noobie with gassers as you seem to imply and resent the implication of being irresponsible and unsafe. Any servo, no mater what brand or model, can be destroyed due to misuse or abuse. Seen this too many times.
I never buy economy servos so have no experience with them.
Bliksem
bubbagates,
I respect your experience and opinion.
Stripping servos can be easy if you are rough with the sticks and at high energy, IMHO. Breaking anything has never been a reasonable challenge, anybody can do it if trying hard enough. The rudder servo is a JR 8611A, BTW. Rudder is the only control on which I have ever stripped a servo gear train.
The S9252 & S9151 are not economy servos so saving a few bucks has never been the deciding factor. I am not a noobie with gassers as you seem to imply and resent the implication of being irresponsible and unsafe. Any servo, no mater what brand or model, can be destroyed due to misuse or abuse. Seen this too many times.
I never buy economy servos so have no experience with them.
Bliksem
I do stand by my position on metal versus nylon on gas powered planes, I just should have waited until I was calmer when I created that post.
This is one of the reasons this particular thread has survived so long, we all get along pretty well and when we do disagree, we work it out amongst ourselves. I do not remember the post, but some time ago, RCU even stated how in this thread how well this thread takes care of itself.
Once again, I apologize
10-26-2011, 11:45 AM
#6695
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
Uncas,
You might want to mount the struts first and tighten down the knurled knobs then mark your hole locations so they are lined up90 degree's to the strut. Remove strut from wingand drill your location. This should work betterthan a random hole location as you will be in line with the strut for the u-clip to mount to. If you have access to a drill pressa 1/16 holemight also work and fit the diameter of the u-clip better. You alsomight wanna re-glue the threadin the knurled knob withquick CA by poking the glue tip up in the hole and give it a shot to make sure it's locked up again. I might do this to all 4 knurled knobs justfor the extra security,only takes a few minutes......Mike T.
You might want to mount the struts first and tighten down the knurled knobs then mark your hole locations so they are lined up90 degree's to the strut. Remove strut from wingand drill your location. This should work betterthan a random hole location as you will be in line with the strut for the u-clip to mount to. If you have access to a drill pressa 1/16 holemight also work and fit the diameter of the u-clip better. You alsomight wanna re-glue the threadin the knurled knob withquick CA by poking the glue tip up in the hole and give it a shot to make sure it's locked up again. I might do this to all 4 knurled knobs justfor the extra security,only takes a few minutes......Mike T.
10-26-2011, 12:41 PM
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
Most of it is still original equipment, but I have changed out switches, fuel lines and that sort of stuff that "gives up" over time. "HOLY COW" what kind of statement was that!!...that pertains to ME also!! [X(]
10-26-2011, 12:43 PM
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RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: Uncas
As a follow up to an earlier post, I reported my upper port wing strut bolt coming loose. Hanging on only by a thread or two when it landed. It seems no matter how tight I tighten it, that bolt eventually works itself loose. But just that bolt, no others.
This plane still remains one of the best planes I have ever flown.
As a follow up to an earlier post, I reported my upper port wing strut bolt coming loose. Hanging on only by a thread or two when it landed. It seems no matter how tight I tighten it, that bolt eventually works itself loose. But just that bolt, no others.
This plane still remains one of the best planes I have ever flown.
In over 6,675+ postings to this topic, NO ONE but Uncas has reported any interplane
strut thumb screws coming loose repeatedly. Quite possibly one of those one in a million
oddities. Possibly an undersize thread.
10-26-2011, 01:23 PM
#6700
RE: Great planes ultimate 160
ORIGINAL: iflywhenican
Most of it is still original equipment, but I have changed out switches, fuel lines and that sort of stuff that ''gives up'' over time. ''HOLY COW'' what kind of statement was that!!...that pertains to ME also!! [X(]
Most of it is still original equipment, but I have changed out switches, fuel lines and that sort of stuff that ''gives up'' over time. ''HOLY COW'' what kind of statement was that!!...that pertains to ME also!! [X(]
