I disagree. The amount of fiberglass + epoxy I used weighed less than 1/8 one ounce. I used a very small amount of expoxy with about a 1/2 inch square piece of .50 oz cloth. Before I did this, I could easily break the expoxied joint with my hands, now I'd have to apply at least twice the force. Why risk it for 1/8 of an ounce? Once you sand it down it's nearly flush with the surface. It didn't interfere at all with my formers.

Enjoy and keep up the posting!
Reid

i dunno, wut do the rest of u think????????????

Well when I ditched mine that is exactly where my fuse broke. This makes it the weakest part of the fuse. However this only broke due to a crash and therefore need not be neccessary for flying. If you're apt to worry about things like this while flying it would be worth your peace of mind to do rplumbo's mods at negligible cost in weight.

Sure, an ounce here, a couple more there, pretty soon you have a lead sled! This plane is designed around being extremely light. If you want something heavy, get a Pizazz and be done with it. I have over 400 flights on mine, and have done everything with it, and had no problems at all. sure, a bit here and there doesn't sound like much, but trust me, it all adds up!

READ: NEGLIGIBLE - a fraction of an ounce makes no difference
Since this is the weakest part of the fuse and if you are prone to worrying, a 1/8 ounce fix would be a good compromise.

uuuuummmmmmm! I don't worried about what will happen to the airplanes after she crash....I did not do fiberglass and I agree with Iceberg....an airplane will gain quite a bit of weight with a little mod here and here....ect., try building any plane with a gram scale to weight everything, you will quickly see what I mean.

I try to build has per the plan...otherwise designing my own airplane would make sure they are built the way I like...

Daniel D.

okay guys; finally that electric is done and COMPLETELY out of the way!!

today i joined the fuse sides and did all the 6x6 mm pieces that have to go in. i also put in the doubler for the wingsaddle. i flexed one of the sides when it was dry; snap. so i re glued it (it was a clean break right down the squiggly seam), and was real careful with it. I flexed it again after all those 6x6 pieces and the double and its rock solid, no need to mark up the outside of my plane and add weight (no matter how little). it is really strong.

now its telling me to put that mount together. i have a nice dubro shockabsorbing mount that i could use, but how neccesary is it to replace the wooden one? it will be a pain in the neck to have to drill and tap that thing, fill all those holes, and then redrill it. the wood one is already the right width, has holes in the f.wall, and is easy to put together. so do i really need that dubro mount?? thanx.

Crazy Mike

Please tell me that you're not going to shudder at an eigth of an ounce in glass but are willing to use the 12 ounce Dubro shock mount. Just FYI too, the glassed joint has a silkly smooth finish after sanding so there's absolutely no way to tell it's there under the Monokote except when it's not failing in flight. After assembling the wooden mount, I think it'll be just fine. It seems very very strong. Moreso when put into the fuse.
You might pull ahead of me. I've got finals this week. Multivariable Calculus/Vectory Analysis on Monday, Physics on Tuesday, so I won't have a lot of time to work. Although I do have an hour or so right now. Maybe this'll give you a chance to start making mistakes first instead of me!

Enjoy!
Reid

haha; reid. you are probably right about the mod. i will consider it, and thanx for the pointners. i guess it is kinda silly to think about the mount vs. little mod. lol.

that's a lot o' tests!! i'm only in eighth grade, and we still have tests in everything. except i don't take multivariable calculus yet. lol.

i guess i will just use the wood mount and let it go. if it breaks i will fix it. i might even stick some pieces of tri-stock in there for strength if i can figure out where. thanx again.

Crazy Mike

I'm using the stock mount on mine, and it's just fine! This is one of those places where you can add a lot of weight if you aren't careful. I used 30 minute epoxy to glue the mount together so it could soak into the wood a bit, but I was careful with the amount I used. No WAY would I add something as heavy as one of those Du-Bro mounts, they're the biggest waste of weight I've ever seen. The stock mount is just fine, but it does require fuel proofing once it's done. A little clear dope works well here, or if in a pinch, epoxy finishing resin thinned with alcohol will also work at the cost of a bit more weight.

I was thinking about not adding any sheeting to the rear turtle deck. Is there a reason to do this aside from making the Monokote Stick better? I know I'm not going to add the sheeting over the fuel tank, but I wanted to get a poll on the turtle deck sheeting. I got a lot done tonight, more picture on my thread tomorrow. I'm going to bed.

Goodnight!
Reid

Well, now you're just getting goofy! The sheeting is needed for strength. If you want to change the plane so much, why don't you just design your own? You OBVIOUSLY know much more than the designer of the plane does!

i just 30-min epoxied the tray part of the mount together, and i will put the sides on at 1:00 pm (11:30 am now) when it is good and hard. i did the wing peg doubler on R1 and now i'm on the hold down setup on R2.

I couldn't figure out whether or not the black nylon blind-nut goes on the side with the tripler or on the opposite side. don't leave me in suspense, guys, i'm on a roll!!

Crazy Mike

Har Har Icebird. These 4 pieces of sheeting weight 1 and 1/2 ounces. That's a nice chunk of weight to save. You know if it wasn't for people questioning the status quo, things would never get any better and we'd be living in Cuba.

So we know Icebird doesn't want to answer my question, does anyone else want to answer it who won't ridicule me?

Thanks!
Reid

ANSWER MY QUESTION PLEEZ!!! THIS IS IMPORTANT!!

BLIND NUT ON TRIPLER SIDE OR PLAIN SIDE??? HELP!!

Where do the rudder pull pull housings get cut at the back? I know where they begin, right outside that ply former, but where do they end? Anyone have any pictures? Or can anyone explain this to me?

What about landing gear? My landing gear flops up and down within those two pieces of ply. How can I fix this? Let's talk about the gear.

Reid

I just emailed you a picture!

Reid

u did? i guess it just hasn't been forwarded yet. u could just tell me?? all you have to say is tripler side or non-tripler side ...

All the stuff goes on one side. From bottom to top it goes: former, ply piece, ply piece, black nylon nut. This whole setup faces in towards the wing area. On the other side of the former is just the washer and ny-lock nut. Here's the picture.

THANK YOU!!! NOW BACK TO WORK!!!

I have one coming from Santa. I plan to put a YS45 in it. Any comments. I already had the YS sitting on my bench looking for a home.

Don't use the stock fuel tank with the YS. The pressure is too much for it.

It's a pleasure to build and if you scour Crazy Mike's as well as my thread, you'll find every problem you'll encounter (hopefully!) as well as suggestions etc. Mine's going together very very well.

Reid

Ooo, that's a good tip about the tank. I hadn't thought about that. Better get a Sullivan!

Reid

I've always used Dubro tanks for YS engines, they work fine, Tetra also work well, but they're pretty pricey. I've heard of Sullivan's splitting at the seams.