Well it’s been 4 months now but I am nearing completion!!

The plane's build is awesome. I don’t like the aluminum landing gear and tubes, which seem just a little weak The hardware is like for a 90 size plane but and my 5 year old brother could break that plastic but Everything else is awesome......I guess that just leaves the plane ( spinner is like 6oz+ big heavy aluminum, the controle horns and all the clevises and connectors and rods are crap, the fuel tank is no bigger than the one in my F90 and it seems junky for a plane of this quality) If you don’t care about that though then well... think again.... On to the good

I love the covering and the whole build. There are hardly any wrinkles after 4 months at my house and the small things that peeled off I have easily fixed. No damage whatsoever in shipping. Everything, especially the canopy, is built pretty light and the whole plane seems especially strong. The only thing on the plane that is a little weak is the firewall board itself. That is easily fixed though. If you have built like a say.. funtana 40 or 90 you can build this plane. You can get 70 degrees of through out of the ailerons and elevator, they are big, and the rudder looks like a BEAST! You need torqy servos though. I would of loved to get 5955's for everything but$$$$. You can probably do 50+ degrees of through without stressing the 5645's too much.

I have a DA-50(stock muffler 23x8 NX Pete Model Carbon fiber spinner and a 16oz tank) and 4 5645's and 1 5955 for the rudder. I have 2 2cell TBM Li-ions and a 3cell pack. All are on MPi regs and I have one JR HD charge switch.

Hardware: I have SWB arms and carbon fiber pushrods from chief. I also have cactus aviation blue anodized control horns. I used Kevlar cable for the rudder pull pull. My control setup is slick!

I have No $ right now But I will soon get a 9303 and a 9 channel pcm receiver. I will also get a smoke pump and another battery for it.
I also need to get 2 digital minis for the choke and throttle.

I could of used the hardware and cheaper servos and saved $$$ but I want this plane to be built PERFECT!!! I think it is gonna fly awesome from what others have said.

I weighed the plane and it came in at 14.6 lbs. The only things that were not in it were the fuel tank and smoke tank and pump, receiver, probably 2 extensions and the titanium aileron links. Oh yah and the 3 cell Li-ion and the regulator. I think it will be 16lbs- when all is done.

People say it flys light at 18lbs. I heard a guy on here say it flew awesome and had great power with a DA 50. I say Mine will Fly awesome too. Maybe I can give you guys a report and hopefully a vid( If I can convince my parents to get a new camera) in the near future.

I couldn’t load the pics on this post for some reason and all my typing got deleted once so I am gonna post pics in like 30 seconds if I can

Me and My older brother

The engine and wood reinforcement (glare) and batteries.

My Pics are big and I can do no more than 3[:@] oh well Yah I got a graphtec tailweel

Thats my other plder brother in the last set so what do ya think?????

I thought you were going with a EVO-58? what happened?.....Took my first flights with my red /white /blue yak this weekend flew great w/zdz 50, careful with the covering mine wrinkled pretty easily in the sun

where did you get the pull pull setup. cables and ball links,, I am using SWB horns also on my yak. I have one of the KMP rejects. wich was made in the same factory. i recovered mine it was UGLY teal and red and white. I still have to cover my elevators..

Banche,

I finished mine out with the DA50 and the DA Muffler. The landing gear is very strong!!!! But, it took three (3) 2700ma Nimh (Expert/Horizon) 4 cell packs and the heavy spinner (toc stock) to balance it out. I mounted the batts as far forward in the engine box and mounted the fuel tank in the canister compartment.

One other thing you should do is to make another set of canopy hold downs because the stock ones broke on mine during flight.

I think the plane flys very nice, the workmanship is top notch, however the manual sucks!!!! But I will most likely buy another from TOC, I just wish they would have some more pictures and set-up suggestions.

I also used the Hanger 9 controls on the ailerons, however I am a little nervous about the clevises for the elevators, the ones with the little pins. I think I will make up some carbon push rods and H9 Ball links for the elevators.

Please let me know your set-up.

BR, Mark

MARK.

You can get the cf pushrods and h9 links( I think they are 2'') and other things like ball links. I used clevises on the elevator's though, whatever works for u. http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin...cessories.html


DRUMBUM. I got the kevlar cable, 4 h9 1/2'' titanium links and clevises from ... http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/GHardwarePull.htm

I am sure the swb turminators would work a little better. Kevlar gives no interference, 24' for like $3 and it is much easier to install, like alot easier!!! wow it was soooo easy. Just loop around pull tight with you finger and ca. then do it to the other side and turn the clevises and ball links to tighten it, and heatshrink so it doesnt come loose, but I dont think mine would of broke without heatshrink anyways

dont use airwild turminators!!! I got em and they cut the kevlar like a cissors no matter what way you do it!


I was gonna use the evo 58 and if I could build again I would use it bc people that have that combo said the plane was awsome and flew really light. I saw that like 1/4'' - board and all the wood in pieces and that heavy engine and having never even drilled in a firewall before, much less attached one I was like[X(] and the holes would not line up and I figured if I slid the firewall down it would be even weaker so I got the DA.

Oh well I think it will still turn out really well and be a lb lighter. People say that the evo is more reliable and like 40lbs thrust vs 25-27lbs or 29 whatever the heck it was I cant think of it right now but yah the evo is like 26x10 at 6500 plus I think. freakin horse!

thanks,,

A word to the wise-----CHECK THE INCIDENCE OF BOTH STABS , be certailn that they are both at 0 degrees incidence in reference ot the wings. I assumed this to be the case in a quality ARF such as TOC 1, however I found the incidence to be at positive 3 degrees after having the most hair raising flight , I was dam lucky to get the plane down with no damage. ----Rich

It checks out perfect!

Don't forget to install the top of the engine box!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yah I am going to do that last. But I was wondering, what's the negative in not installing it. It seems prety strong but I was just wandering what would happen!

The negative would be seeing your engine depart the airframe. Planes don't fly well when their instantly that tail heavy!

I really hate to tell you this, but that engine is going to come loose when you start it. You can make the top removable by gluing basswood on the inside and screwing it down. The issue here is that the firewall on my Avistar trainer was thicker than the one in the Yak. I had this plane with the DA-50 and 5945's and it flew awesome. But the firewalla came loose twice, even though I had DOUBLED the firewall with 1/4" ply and tristock on the back and front, twice as strong as yours and it still came loose. I hate to be a pooper but you need to work on that firewall. You need to thicken it from the inside so that it doesn't throw off your standoffs and makes the engine stick out too much. The stock hardware on this plane is fine except for the pull-pull ball links, this rudder is too big for that kind of cheap plastic. My rudder just peeled off the threads on the inside of the ball link. Attached are pictures of mine! I loved it its the best 3D plane I ever flew! You;re gonna love it and if you want it to last PLEASE reinforce the firewall. Good luck!

Vic

I have to agree with Vic. I laughed when I pulled the firewall out of the plastic bag it came in. I thought to myself... "Is this a template for the firewall??"[sm=lol.gif]

Thanks a bunch for telling me that!!!! I am glad I know.

Man, That is too bad. what in the world was TOC thinking. I guess I will have to go get some ply from the LHS.

How do you glass the firewall or pine it or whatever to make it stronger? I have heard alot about this but I have no idea.

Vic, could you tell me what your needles are set on. I know mine are set for breakin and mine will probably be a little different than yours but I was just wondering.

You can do the same thing we do to the 35% Yak, use angle aluminum and small bolts.

Thanks, do you know where I could get aluminum l braces like that, home depot?

would the LHS HAVE THEM?

Pretty much any of you hardware stores or places like Lowes or Home Depot will have aluminum angle.

Would Tri-Stock on all 4 sides )top, bottom, 2 sides) be enough enforcement? I'm thinking of using tri-stock to bolt the top of the engine box on also! I can't wait to get mine! Less than 3 months!!!

Put aluminum angle or pin the firewall like i did. U take a dremel and make some holes like 1/8 wide or enough to fit a kabob stick in it and then epoxy it in place, and do like 4 on each sides. Or you can just do the aluminum angle, but it adds weight. Banche I can tell you that where I live (Puerto Rico) my engine may be behaving way different than where you are. I can give u a tip on adjusting the needles tho. u gotta start by knowing that the one closer to the engine is the high and the farther one is the low. You basically want to stop the engine from "4-cycling" while in low revs. Firs tstart by adjusting the high one but setting to full throttle and leaning it a lil bit and gently start lowering the throttle and when it starts "4-cylcing" again, adjust the low end needle as necessary. Then throttle back up again the gnetly lower throttle till it "4-cycles" again, and keep doing that until you have a smooth transition. Do it after break-in tho. Good luck!


Vic

Oh and I can also tell you that you are going to have problems with this motor if u run it with the carb like it is, rotated. Rotate it back how it came from the factory and you shouold have no problems. Remember to release the spring too.