Be careful with the push-pull. It has to be set-up just as perfectly as a pullpull, if not moreso. If you have a pull pull, that goes slack, no huge issue. If you have a pushpull that goes slack, that means it's trying to stretch one rod, and squish the other. My advice for pull-pull is this:
Do a full scale mock-up of your set-up, and then adjust the arm length in small increments until you get a no-slop, no binding system. Then, make your own arms and you are done!

Peter

Joe,

What I meant by 4 oz is that the servo is 2 Oz, and the distance of moving it to the pull-pull would be 1/3 from the CG as previously, so that would be equivalent to a 4 oz saving of nose weight needed. The servo cutout is already done for you, so if you go with pull pull, then you'd have to buy a black covering to patch it up (no biggie).

As promised, here are some build pics. There really aren't that many need for build pics since it's more of an assembly. All the robart hinge points are drilled right on for a perfect fit, and they're all centered. One difficulty I have was in drilling the control horn holes (having a drill press might have helped).

Sorry about the mess

I glassed the firewall, even though it's probably not needed. They pinned it already as you can see from the previous picture. From my measurement, you really need 1/4" more lengthf rom the firewall for the DA50 with a 2.5" standoff to be just right (1/16" away from the cowling when the cowling is flushed against the body). I think I could've pushed the cowling in, but from my (limited) experience, that usually ends up scratching the covering on the hatch. I didn't have 1/4" ply, so I used 2 x 1/8" (not the prettiest job, but nobody is going to look in here anyway.)

On the second pic you can see the provided litght ply floor for the tank. That is NOT glued to the frame. The manual recommends putting it right next to the firewall (ala glow), but I'm going to move it back to CG. You do need to sand it just a touch to get it to fit properly. I will probably reinforce it with some triangle stock and cross grain ply.

The ONLY 2 defect I found so far with this kit (not much really if you think about it).

1. The glue joint came loose. No biggie. A little 15 min epoxy, and it's fixed. I'll probably add a couple of small triangular balsa to hold it togethter better.

2. Poor design I guess. You can see the bend in the bottom part of that former. A simple cross grain ply will fix that (balsa will probably work too).

Look ma, no servo tray. I frankly don't know what they were thinking when they're doing this because there's no way for this to ballance right without using pull-pull if you're going the DA route. I am planning on using some basswoods to make my own servo attachment point.

All you diehard Edge fans will immediately notice (heck even I notice it immediately) that the rudder is no way close to being scale. This baby is going to have some MAJOR rudder authority though BTW, I ditched the stock tail wheel setup, and recycled my Extra 260's CF tailwheel.

The second pic shows another example of how not quite scale this kit is. The canopy is too long to be a true Edge (which I think looks funny anyway), and too short to be an Edge 540T. i think the Extra and the Edge shares the same canopy really. IMHO, though it's not quite scale, it looks better though.

The third pic is the elevator setup. I ditched the supplied hardware because they're flmsy for my taste (the pushrods are 4-40, but the control horn is a rather soft nylon kind (see the pics on the next post). Since I got this bird after I doinked my H9 Extra 260 (forgot to pin up [:@][:@]), I recycled their control horn and ball link setup (good stuff IMHO). You can kind of see it from the pic. The H Stab is held together by 2 screws that ends in a blind nut on the fuse. Decent, but not optimal, as removing stabs would be a PITA since the servos are not hidden IN the H Stab (ala UltraRC Giles 202). Somebody creative can probably make the necessary mods, but that's too much hassle for me, and I have no intention of removing the H Stab anyway. One alternative is to use one of Dubro control horn because the hinge points are clipped on with a pin, making removal easier.

Here are the 2 aileron setup. I personally feels more comfortable with using 2 with a surface area this large. I'm setting up my Futaba 9C for a 4 servo aileron setup, so I don't need any matchbox / y adapter / etc. On the ailerons, I DID use the STOCK arms. I figure ailerons aren't that important, and there are 2 of them, so it's more bulletproof.

You can't really see it from that angle, but if you look at the top/bottom profile of this Edge vs the real Edge, the wings are wider front-back (which would give you the more surface area for the same wing span). I think this is a fine compromise, as most planes are designed like this anway to reduce wingloading.

Pic 2 & 3 show the closeup of the control horn. This is EXACTLY setup stock (so you guys would have an idea of what they look like. IMHO, this is adequate for a 90 bird, but not a 30% (you be the judge)

Ok, that's it for now. I just got back from my LHS today with all the pull-pull setup, so once I get going on that, I'll post more pics. Right now, I only need to set up the pull-pull, mount the tank, and throttle servo.

Hi Josh How Is Your Build Coming Or Have You Flown It Yet If So How Did It Go I Hope To Have Mine Done Next Week Let Use Know THANKS STEVE

More Pictures PLease

I can't wait to see the final product!

I am amost done, but it seems that the closer I am, the slower it gets . I need a place to mount my throttle servo. I was thinking of doing it upside down bolted to teh top part of the firewall. Is that a good idea? The way the engine is mounted (DA50), the throttle servo needs to be pretty high up there, but I really don't see any good supporting structure.

More pics later. ... I promise

It sounds like you may need the extra nose wieght , so I would defiantly mount it "locally".

Ok, Here are more pictures

Pic 1. This is how I decide to mount the throttle servo. Just epoxy 2 x 3/8 square popplar to the front of the box. If I need more nose weight, I can add another 1.5-2 Oz in the form of a choke servo.

Pic 2. Fuel tank floor glued. I'm using my old H9 Extra tank which survived the crash just fine. The rear of the floor is resting on a former, and I added a triangular stock at the bottom of the front part of the floor. The floor and velcro comes with the kit. With a little sanding, it fits just fine.

Pic 3. Overall view of the tank + rudder assy

Pic 4. My pull pull assy. using basswood 1" x 1/4" thick in a criss cross manner. I am using a tiller also to decrease the overal tension on the servo itself (and supposedly prolong the bearing assy). The whole thing is solid, and centers perfectly. I'm really going to like the HS5995 TG: fast and precise. I think I will eventually mount the receiver just posterior to the tiller arm. By crossing it, I managed not to get it to snag in any of the formers posteriorly. Pretty good for the first shot

Pic 5. My restless DA itching to power its new host.

BoneDoc:
Your workbench looks as bad as mine.

And I thought I was the only one with a sloppy workbench

Your doing a nice job on the plane. It's a beautie.

Is that DA50 gonna be enough for a plane this size?

Thanks... I like the statement my friend made with his T-Shirt

"Organized people are just too lazy to look for stuff"

Before I bought this, someone told me that DA50 will 3D a 18 lbs plane fine. I've seen videos of DA 50 pulling the WH Ultimate at 19 lbs and it looks adequate. For sure it's not going to be "ballistic" like it was on my Extra 260. But I'm not that crazy about balistic overpowering either. It makes throttle response too sensitive.

Some encouraging news guys. I got myself a fish scale and measured what I've got left

Fuse + stabs + batteries and switches - 11 lbs 10 Oz
R Wing 1 14
L Wing 1 14
Prop 6 Oz
Hatch 7 Oz
Cowling 8 Oz (YES, it is that solid ... and heavy). This is also after I cut out a considerable ammount on the bottom to have it fit my DA50 and its standard muffler

That brings it to 16 lbs 11 Oz. The only thing I haven't done is put the spinner on. But even if you add 6-8 Oz for the spinner, you will still come in at 17-18 lbs with a DA fiddy. As of now, I think I should have no problem balancing the model at the recommended CG, even without using a spinner. It just hurts so much to plunker down another 50-85 dollars in cash, just for an "ornament" that only adds unnecessary weight.

I will be on a TDY (outside assignment) for the next week and a half. Had not that been the case, I could've maidened at the latest by this weekend. But as is such, this isn't going to happen until next weekend at the earliest (probably later than that)... sigh ... []

They say the WH plnaes float even at 19lbs. This ought to be real sweet at around 17.

Assembly is finished now. I was going to maiden it this morning before church, but alas, i forgot to bring the wingtube[:@]. Might have to wait until next week then.

AUW is 17 2Oz without a spinner. That already includes the wheel pants and a heavier set of tires (lightweight treaded Dubro). Initially it was CG'ed at 6.5", 1" aft to the recommended. I'm adding some lead at the box until I can decide wheter that's a good CG, or whether I'm going to move it back for better 3D performance. When I looked at the BME Edge's CG, it goes from 5-6", so I suspect that this CG will be just fine.

So far, most things are setup with stock items. The mods I've done so far is to use a pull pull, change the control horns and linkages with H9 (rocket city-like), us a different tire, CF tail wheel from my H9 Extra, and move the throttle servo to the motor box. I can easily shave off 1 lb with CF gear + wing tube. My DA50 with Bolly 23x8 was tached at 6450 max, I richened it to 6350 for its top end. It feels like it has enough bang for good 3D, but will have to wait.

Meanwhile Here're some pictures

Josh,

Great looking plane you have assembled there. Boy, that rudder DOES look pretty overpowering. Almost like it's a 33% rudder on a 28% plane...

Keep us posted about the maiden. Looks like leaves on the ground... didn't think Wichita got cool enough for the leaves to fall. Up here, we're just waiting for the first flakes of snow. The fall has been wet but very warm. Has only been below freezing about 3 nights in October.

Peter

The rudder does look very big. Upon a closer inspection, I guess it looks scale enough, but lengthened to give it more surface area. Same goes for the wing. The scale Edge wing is not at wide (front to back).

Hi Guys I Maiden Mine Today It Went Great It Took 1 Click Of Down & 1 Click Of Left Ail. I Have A Brison 3.2 That Is On It's First Tank Of Gas With A BME 22x8 Prop It Will Hover It But The Pullout Is Not Like H9 Extra 260 With A DA 50 But It Will Pull Out It Weights 17 lb 10oz And Is On The Front CG Mark I Had To Add 8.5 ozs To The Front With Choke Servo In The Side Of The Engine Box Thro.Servo In Front Of The Wing Tube The Battery On Top Of The Landing Gear I Did Not Use A Pull Pull In Mine Wish I Did But All in All Im Happy And It Flys Great STEVE

Great to hear that I'm not the only lone owner of this plane. From building it, it looks to be a great flier, but only time will tell. Did you try any KE at all? Does it have any kind of coupling? Tried any 3D maneuvers?

Anxiously waiting

Hi Josh I Did Not Try Any 3D Or KE But Maybe Next Weekend STEVE

I was thinking of putting a BME 61 twin in this Edge. Does anyone know the cowl dimensions?

he how did the brison fit thinking of going that way with mine what servo and battery did you use plaining on staying with ncads or nimah

Great job BoneDoc. We all appreciate the updates from someone on the cutting edge. I have a Brison 4.2 sitting here with nothing to do. Any advice or suggestions about this engine in this plane? Too much motor (69cc)? Balance concerns? Vibration concerns?

BTW - SLCombs... Did you get a chance to "wring it out" much yet?

Thanks. >Thom