clytle374

I reset the cg to 4", and it felt a lot better. The wind came up right after takeoff, so I'm not sure it's right, but it's better. Ended up taping 8 9mm 115g JHPs to the tail wheel bracket

I just about killed it on short final when a down draft got a hold of it over the steep hill off the end of the runway. Luckily from flying helies I keep a finger on the idle-up switch that is also set as my rates. It snapped out into a knife edge after gaining about 8 feet off the ground. Then all I had to do was land it in gusty winds while completely shook up.

@phatg0nk You might go to the airport and ask if someone would look for it. I knew a guy decades ago the paid for the fuel and a pilot volunteered to search for it. I think it cost him about $10(1980s money) for Cessna 152 fuel. Many pilots love all aircraft. Just a thought.

Cory

jknox

Flew the maiden flightlast night and was happy with the flight characteristics overall. Seemed to be running fairly hot even with a rich mix for break in on a 65AX so today Ibaffled the cowl with some smoked acrylic to force the incoming airstream down around the cylinder. Vertical wasn't quite as good as my Yak 54/Saito 82. I was flying a Xoar 13 X 6 so I think I'll try a Zinger Pro 14 X 5 next time.It seemed a little nose heavy with CG at 2-7/8. You guys seem to be running at 3" and more. Also what about the spec throws - They seem conservative so I set them up some to this,

Ailerons - L 7/8, M 1-1/8, H 1-3/8
Elevator - L 7/8, M 1-1/8, H 1-1/2
Rudder - L 25 (Deg), M 30, H 35

Whatda think, Too much?

clytle374

I think the baffle should cool it down quite a bit. I think you'll be glad you got the 65 instead of the 75, I do think I remember heat problems with the 75 also.

People seem to settle on CGs that are way back from the book. I started at 3.5" and just moved it to 4". In my notes someone was flying it as far back as 4.5". I'm building a battery shelf behind the wing right now so I don't have to use ballast weight.

Your throws seem to be about right looking at my book, except for the elevator where the book calls for more.

Cory

phatg0nk

It was in my backyard more less, and over the bluff.. but i did find it. The wings got took off, fuse looked real good accept and fairy clean break off of the engine box.

i would just buy the arf again i believe, would be more worth the time, considering the pretty good price tag on the aeroworks edge 540t

I did manage to salvage all components and there all working, the engine however is stripped down now and seems to be all good accept for a bent crankshaft..

If i fix this engine "which i will unless i get a good ebay used one. ..It will go in a 60 size mustang
And i plan on getting another edge as soon as the wallet lets me, this time with a saito 100 or better.

phatg0nk

Who is is that was running the rebate for trading in a dx6?

clytle374

Futaba, but it ended the 31st of last month, unless you can get someone to post date a receipt. They still have the free second receiver deal though.

With damage like that you're probably better off with getting another, and using the first one fir spares. Getting all the parts back is the important part. I've got a lot more in the plane than the airframe itself.

Cory

clytle374

Got the battery behind the wing, and the test flight in today. Nose drops just a touch we rolling inverted. Actually had no wind for once and was able to get a better feel for the plane with the cg back at 4". Much better harriers, rolling harriers(that I'm real bad at), and some hovers at altitude. Also had my first engine out. Thing glides much better than I expected without the prop turning. Ended up in the deep grass, but no damage.

Cory

phatg0nk

surprised it did glide for you a bit,, ive been worried about my day comming for a deadstick. I never have had a fourstroke deadstick yet tho.

clytle374

It has a very decent glide ratio without the prop slowing it down. I found some scales an mine is 7.25lbs dry.

I've got a HS-81 servo on throttle that like to chatter instead for going to it's lower endpoint. Dad has one that does the same thing, need to send them to Hitec for warranty, both brand new. Going to try and get some sort of replacement today.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Guys,

Interesting Forum, been following it almost since it started....

I came across something tonight while working on the landing gear. Take this as a heads-up for you to check your axles.

First of all, the plane has been flying for about a year or more - this is not in brand-new condition. But it's well maintained and it's still in good shape, but it has had its share of good and bad landings. I was trying to reposition one of my axles in order to install the wheel pants when I noticed that the nut which held the axle to the strut would not tighten. I backed off the nut and found what you see in the first picture - a partially stripped thread. FYI, the nut itself looks like it's still in good shape.

After putting a spacer on to tighten the nut on some fresh threads, it still would not tighten properly. That's when I found that the flange had slid totally off the axle. I was able to make a temporary repair with some Stay Brite Silver Solder, but I will never trust it completely. I'll replace these with some Great Planes bolt-on axles http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK178 and grind down the shoulders to match the slot in the wheel pants. I don't know if what happened to my axles was a fluke or if it will occur to all of us. My landings may not all be greasers but overall, they're acceptable, insofar as putting strain on the axles is concerned.

I just thought that I would give you guys a heads-up to check your axles when you have the fuse on the bench some time.

Bob

clytle374

Can you tell, was the axle just pressed on? Or did it fracture there?

Thanks
Cory

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

It appeard to be just pressed on. There wasn't a fracture. I haven't had a chance to test fly it after soldering it, but the solder job went well. I made sure that both parts of the solder joint was scrupulously clean for the silver solder to grab.

Bob

clytle374

Last night a saw the AW Extra 260 and was wondering about it. Same size as the Edge, but 50% more expensive. Anyone have experience with both the Edge and Extra? Wondering to why it's cost is higher.

Also reading the review, people complained how it snaps out hard right with too much elevator. My Edge does the same thing, but in the 90s when I quit flying it seemed all planes would snap out. Several people commented they have several(different planes) that don't, and I know my 42" 3dhs SLick will not snap out regardless of how much elevator you give it. Searching around on the subject I'm wondering why some planes do and some don't. And if it's inherent to the design, or if you can help eliminate it.

Cory

Tumalik

hi. Just started working on the 540 and would like to know what the ideal CG is? too many bits on the web. Hoping that the review page would have more experienced guys to sum it up... i have a spare OS 65 ax which will go in the 540. Oh! and just wanted to ask regarding my aileron hinge gaps.... All was done well, though since i wanted to make sure all edges were aligned, i ended up with a 1mm gap between the aileron and wing... can i just tape it? or should i leave it? Thanks

clytle374

A CG of 3.5" is a good start point. I'm back around 4" now. KE with just a touch towards the gear, inverted/upright is neutral.

I sealed the hinge gaps with clear monokote, it helped with wing rock in harriers quite a bit.

This is a real big thread.

Cory

Tumalik

hi. having problems getting my tank in place. It goes in the fuse with ease but the "cap" wont fit into the firewall hole. Anyone face the same problem? the cap wont go through to settle in the firewall opening by about 8mm from the edge of the cap.

airborne2.4

I installed mine without putting it in the firewall and it's fine.

Tumalik

Thanks. does it have to be leveled or do you have it angled? and if angled, downwards (angle of fuse) or slightly up(end of tank towards top of fuse)

clytle374

IIRC the instructions show you putting the tank in upside down. Maybe that is your problem.

Cory

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I had a similar problem. I shimmed the tank so that the neck was level with the hole in the firewall. Next, I loosened the screw holding the neck assembly in. Then I put this through the hole and tightened the screw.

The difference in diameters was very slight. By tightening the neck while it was in the firewall cutout, it both sealed the tank and provided a bit of security to keep the tank from slipping back... but you still have to brace the rear of the tank anyway. Remember, the difference in diameters was only slight, so I was able to get a lot of oomph to seal the stopper to be liquid tight, and to seal the firewall cutout, to keep fuel spray from going into the tank area.

If the firewall cutout is still too small, put a drum sander into your dremel tool and sand it, but only a little at a time. Remember to seal the cutout with CA or thinned epoxy for fuel proofing. Let it dry completely before installing the tank.

Just my $.02

Bob

clytle374

Maybe I misunderstood the problem. I thought it was and offset and not to large to fit in the hole. 8mm is quite a bit.

Cory

Tumalik

thanks guys! This is the message i got from Aeroworks:

airborne2.4

We all have concerns at times I guess, but you're fine Keep building...

Tumalik

anybody use lipo setup for powering the rx? i am using the turnigy 8-15 amp UBEC (BEC with regulator for 6V) and a 2200 mah 7.2V lipo. Thing is i want to install another switch to power down the battery(UBEC has it switch but the problem is it has 4 led lights as power level indicator that never goes off unless you unplug the lipo. Power to rc goes off with ubec switch on OFF but light still lit up. 

clytle374

Not sure on that bec, but 4 leds shouldn't discharge your battery enough to matter during a day at the field.

Cory