bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

I just got mine and I must say nicely done ARF.

I have not had much time to look over it well

pit_basher

My Feedback: (3)

I will be using a glow engine in this bird. I need to make a decision between a Moki 2.10 or O.S. 1.60fx, for servos I'm planing to order [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000310674&I=LXUZ90&P=K]HS-645MG [/link] for ailerons and elevators and [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000310674&I=LXNZ35&P=K]HS-945MG[/link] for the rudder. Will that be enough? and also I will be using the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000310674&I=LXCTS1&P=K]Futaba MSA-10 Servo Synchronizer [/link] . I'm open for suggestions

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

eeyoung - YEP !!!! The blind nut hole is EXACTLY on the rear edge of a louver. Sheesh. SO I will remove the blind nut, plug the hole, then attach the cowl with Sheet metal screws (or move the blind nuts aft 1/8". That's all that is needed, and it will space properly. Probably I'll fill the hole, redrill 1/8" aft, reinsert blind nuts. Mine also is a perfect flush fit against the recessed lip on the bottom of the fuse, and flush with the rear of the forward hatch bulkhead on top. VERY good fit.

Except for the <ahem> slight miscalculation of the blind nut holes.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I'm biased. OS 1.60FX, Bisson Pitts, absolutely.....not familiar with the 945.... but I can tell you this - I am *seriously* considering DUAL rudder servos, mounted IN the back of the fuse....because that rudder is HEAVY and *B+I+G*.... I mean L-A-R-G-E !!!!

pit_basher

My Feedback: (3)

Or maybe for the rudder something like the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000310674&I=LXHZS0&P=K]HSC-5955 [/link] with 333 oz

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I saw this plane in the 3-D Flyer magazine and called my LHS and told him to get me one when they come out. The hobby shop guy called and I took off work to take a look. It wasn't the same plane that was in the 3-D mag. The magazine showed ONE aileron servo and the Yak I saw in my hobby shop used TWO. I didn't like that and didn't buy it that day...but went back the next day and bought it. It is a darn pretty airplane. Got my GP Yak about ten days ago and have been just laying back to see what you guys think.
This plane screams for a glow engine like a Moki 1.8-2.1or OS160. I have a good Moki 1.8 on the shelf but I ordered a Brison 2.4. I use to have three other scale planes with moki 1.8's in them and sooner or later I get a flame out on take-off and lose them. All my gas powered planes last forever...well almost.
I am going to use ONE JR DS8411(150oz) on each aileron. Going to beef up the outside hole and make sure linkage is tight. On that rudder going with one JR DS8611 (260oz) mounted in tail. I have never used that large of servo and worry about two foot long power wires going back from reciever. I still use 4.8V. Going to use two JR 4711(119oz) for ele's that I have on hand.
I am not interested in 3-D flying. Just like to fly the expert pattern and some sport flying and I use the engine throttle a lot with full power only in climbs. I have even thought of cutting the aileron in half and using the inboard servo for flaps. I have a JR 10 and flipping a transmitter flight mode switch to slave it to the ailrons for flying. I can hear the howls of laughter from you guys now.
Jim

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Jim,

Where did you get the GP (Great Planes???) Yak, They are not due out on Fast Forward until the end of December and public release in January.At tleast that is the last I had heard

BR289

My Feedback: (106)

I know the OS 1.60 is a good engine, but am suprised that it would be a good engine for this plane! I can imagine that fuel consumption wont be very good........I am still stuck on using one the new Evolution engines ( although not the 26 anymore )

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Got mine from Hobby Town @ $399.99 and my Yak 54 is a Carl Goldberg....but I have heard it is the same as a Great Planes...is this right??
I might be mistaken??
Jim

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

MX240 (Jim) - the CG Yak and GP Yak are different animals. The GP is larger, and single aileron servo, designed for larger motor. THIS CG Yak is definitely smaller.

All - I have pushed out the cowl mounting 4-40 blind nuts, doweled the holes, and will redrill 1/8" aft. Still will be plenty of cowl meat to hold onto, and the blind nut will fit. While doing this, I noted that adding some thick ca around all the blocks was needed. BTW - the blind nuts pushed out with NO effort - NO glue on them. They will have glue when they go back in.

Spent the rest of the evening re-ironing all the covering. Being indoors, the turtledeck, and bottom of fuse had really loosened and wrinkled. Patience and a pretty hot iron w/sock took care of that. While I was at it, I did the wings, ailerons, and the stabs. There was LOTS of loosening, particularly where colors were applied over other colors. Something to check for.

The silver stars and strips are a "sticky" crap, and do not respond to the ironing. They will be gone quite shortly, I'm sure. Just handling is making them lift on the wings and stabs.

BTW - Firewall is already angled, and the lines scribed on it already consider the offset needed for the 6.25" firewall to thrust washer dimension for right thrust.

This is going pretty well.

JasonInAugusta

Any thoughts on this for an engine?

Saito 180

kil_r_b

My Feedback: (2)

Ok I almost have mine ready to go. If the rest of my servos come in Friday I will be in the air Saturday. Wouldn’t you know it. We are suppose to get ice tonight. Since I am fairly new to this I have a question. I have figured my wing loading and it should be around 28 oz/sq.ft. How is that going to play out? I calculated it and the wing cube loading is something like 10. They say aerobatic should run from 9 to 10. I hate being on the upper end. BTW I am using a Saito 180. I know you wonder how I figured this with out the servos. I borrowed some like I am going to install so I could finish building the plane. I will put the new ones in when they come.

T. Bob

My Feedback: (9)

It's kinda defeats your mantra regarding doing it cheep.
I mean digital servos and a 10x Radio is far from the basic glow flier that you said supposedly were the buyers of this plane.

pit_basher

My Feedback: (3)

Can somebody post a picture or a link to the CG Yak?

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

T.Bob - I have posted all along that I was using the equipment that I removed from my Ultra RC Giles. ANYONE can use whatever equipment they have, and I have not told ANYONE that they should go buy a particular radio or particular servos, except to encourage folks to be mindful of the huge control surface sizes.

I'm sorry if you think my using the equipment that I already own "defies the mantra of doing it for cheap".
It would be a ***LOT*** more expensive for me to get additional equipment for this airplane, besides being pretty stupid to not use what is already in my radio box.

As for "doing it for cheap" - well, I never said that was *MY* intention. I was simply offering my opinion based on looking at the construction and instructions on this airplane.

I don't really care for being attacked for using the equipment I have; it's not anyone's business what I choose to use.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Here you go - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLGS0&P=ML

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Guys - a "new" discovery. Talking with eeyoung, we learned that the holes for the control horns (6-32 bolts) are NOT predrilled, as the hole needs to be located based on the length of the servo arm we use. Since there are TWO takeoffs per aileron, it is really, REALLY important that these holes be as precisely identical as we can get them. Particularly if a person is using a "Y" for their dual aileron servos per wing.

Anyway - I want to build some kind of simple fixture that I can clamp onto the control surface that will let me locate and guide-drill a pilot hole for those control horn screws. The hole has to be adjustable fore/aft relative to the chord of the aileron, and the angle of the hole fore/aft needs tp be adjustable, too.

Since the same thing has to be done on both elevators and the rudder, (and LOTS of other airplanes have this same kind of setup), I'm thinking some kind of fixture/guide is in order, but have brain-locked on coming up with anything.

ANYONE have a simple solution that meets the criterion above?
Anyone know of an existing fixture/drill guide that can be found/bought?

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

In aerobobs posts, he has always maintained what he was going to use from the start. I for one appreciate all the time he has taken to weigh this plane piece by piece which has made my job of deciding what to use much easier and in the case of the engine a little harder.

I also was one of the first people to suggest using a single servo for the ailerons, but now that mine has shown up, I'm glad I made the choice of going to dual servos. Total extra weight will end up being 1 ounce more per wing with my choice of servos than if I would go to larger servos and I am still staying well within the manufacturers specs and using dual servos instead of adding C/F and going through all of that mess which will add almost that same ounce in weight anyway. Yes it would be cheaper to do all of that, but if the plane goes in because of a defect and CG finds out you did not use the recommended amount of servos then getting any warranty work will be next to impossible

I will quote 6.0volt spec's

Hitech 5645's are 2.11 ounces each at 164 ounces of torque
Hitech 5945's are 1.97 ounces each at 180 ounces of torque
Hitech 5475's are 1.41 ounces each at 76 ounces of torque

So using 4 5475's I will be at 2.8 ounces per wing at 152 ounces of torque just for the servos. The tail section is getting 5645's because I am going to use a gas engine and will need the weight in the tail for balance

BR289

My Feedback: (106)

All,
I do recommend Metal Gear servos on anything highly Aerobatic/3-D.....doesnt make a difference if your a expert or not. Control surfaces of this size will strip nylon servos, especially with any flutter or "blowback". I had a Showtime with high-torque, nylon geared servos, that just "lost it". If they strip out, they will loosen up after use, and eventually give problems.
I used similar sevos in my CG Extreme 330 profile, and it didnt take long before the servos got "sloppy"
Remember, good "Mechanical Advantage" and sealing of the hinge gaps goes a long way also in preventing flutter.........

T. Bob

My Feedback: (9)

I didn't mean to attack aerobob.
We just disagree on the set up of this plane.
I just think in the long run going with one digital or other high performance servo is the cheapest , most efficient and easiest way of equipping a plane of this size.
Let us know how it goes.

pphillipsjr

My Feedback: (3)

Does Great Planes even offer a Yak? I went to their website and a Yak is not even mentioned.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

It's supposedly coming out in January. It's part of the Performance series that currently has the Ultimate and Cap232. There is also an Edge due out. All of them are built around the OS160FX or the new Fuji 43cc. I have only found it on one web site but no information. Just do a goolge search for GPMA1411, that's it's GP part number

There is a writeup in the newest 3-D flyer magazine on it

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Well, boys, I'm off today <sick -"cough,cough">, and working like mad on the Yak. So far, I've built a handy drilling jig that GUARANTEES identical control horn screw installation. I think it's pretty cool, and it works. Basically, the jig is clamped onto the control surface. The adjustable drill guide (brass tube on hardwood) is then tightened in the desired position. Checked with a long wire and a carpenter's square at the anti rotation pins = voila` !! Perfect drilling. The angle stays the same on a constant taper airfoil, so I'll just move it to the other wing, clamp, mark, drill. Done. Patent Pending, Applied for.....

Here ya go!
BTW - the nylon stuff is pretty good. The servos need to mount with the shafts FORWARD for the pre-cut control rods to work. Although my pic is "stock" hdwe, the steel clevis is going bye-bye, and will be replaced with a 4-40 ball link. Otherwise good to go.

And T-Bob - My Apologies for misinterpreting. Different setups are good - and after installing this one INBOARD servo, I'm tending to think I may just try this puppy with the single one, since I don't 3D.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Thanks for posting aerobob!

eeyoung

Nice job on the drilling jig. I'll start making mine today.

How long are the servo arms you decided to use? I see you have the control linkage screwed almost all the way down on the screw shaft. Was this necessary to get the maximum throw the aileron bevel would allow?
Thanks for the pictures aerobob!