Need some info on a HD DuBro Pull Pull set up
#1
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I just bought a Heavy duty DuBro Pull Pull set up for my Cap X and have a pretty good idea of how to set this thing up, but I am a visual person and like to look at pictures. The instructions on the package are pretty vague. Is there anyone with some good pictures I can look at with both ends of the set up? Also, does anyone know of an airplane instruction manual on line that explanes the set up in detail? I just want to make sure I get this thing set up the right way. Thanks
#2

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This is all I got. The key is to loop it around one more time through the ferrel before crimping. So you will have three passes of the cable going through one crimp ferrel.
I attached a really lame sketch. The thick black line is the ferrel. The thin line is the cable. Hope this helps. The turn buckel is also shown. I needed to enlarge the pic when I went back to view the post.
I attached a really lame sketch. The thick black line is the ferrel. The thin line is the cable. Hope this helps. The turn buckel is also shown. I needed to enlarge the pic when I went back to view the post.
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Thanks JoeAirPort, that helps a lot. Now does the arm on the servo have to be the same width as the attachment points on the rudder?I do know that if the attachment points of the cable which attach to the rudder itself does not fall on the hinge line, you need to offset the attachment point of the cable on the servo end with an angled servo arm, right? Though that wouldn't be the case with this Du-Bro set up.
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This might help: http://members.cox.net/bdfelice/Ackerman/ackerman.htm
#5

That was a good article.
I had never given much thought into a setup of a pull-pull system, but that has shown me possible flaws in my setups.
Brian
I had never given much thought into a setup of a pull-pull system, but that has shown me possible flaws in my setups.
Brian
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From: Bellevue, WA
Arm on the servo has to be the same width as the total width of the rudder horns attach points - if rudder horn is wider itself, screw the attachement points inwards - do not glue or loctite them.
Similar, if servo horn is wider (e.g., 4" instead of 3"), attach to inner holes.
There are different theories regarding the cables crossing or not. My belief is that if using kevlar (no interference), then you can cross if it gives a better direct line (no binding) between servo and rudder attach point. For crossing wires, I use the offset arms (see picture below).
I've seen competitors do this on very large planes, so I assume they know what they are doing...
I attach below what the linkage looks like on a 30% Lanier Extra 330 using a 4" SWB straight arm, DuBro ball links, Airwild pull-pull fittings and the DuBro rudder horn. I also have a picture with the offset SWB arm.
#8

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ORIGINAL: Flyboy1958
1) Thanks JoeAirPort, that helps a lot.
2) Now does the arm on the servo have to be the same width as the attachment points on the rudder?
3) I do know that if the attachment points of the cable which attach to the rudder itself does not fall on the hinge line, you need to offset the attachment point of the cable on the servo end with an angled servo arm, right?
4)Though that wouldn't be the case with this Du-Bro set up.
1) Thanks JoeAirPort, that helps a lot.
2) Now does the arm on the servo have to be the same width as the attachment points on the rudder?
3) I do know that if the attachment points of the cable which attach to the rudder itself does not fall on the hinge line, you need to offset the attachment point of the cable on the servo end with an angled servo arm, right?
4)Though that wouldn't be the case with this Du-Bro set up.
2) yes
3) true
4) true
This is a pretty good guide to pull pull.
http://www.swbmfg.com/rudex.html
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From: Sacramento,
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I have my pull-pull set up crossed. Also, my servo arms are longer in total width than the horns on the rudder, and I don't have any binding, or excessive tightening or loosening of anything. The clevis' attach on the rudder directly over the hingeline.



