Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, I talked to Jtec today and ordered one. Al seem to be working the holiday.

Bdegan

The electric conversion is underway. I went with the Hacker A60-16L with a Castle 110HV. I plan to run 12 cell LiPo and swing somewhere between a 22x12 to 23x10 on it.
I am just waiting for the batteries to arrive. Any luck and they will be here this week. Then I can figure out where to place them in the fuselage to balance. I am going to continue to use the A123 1100's for the radio system.
Here is where I am at. Built a motor box extension and have the motor mounted with the Hacker rear support motor mount. Speed control mount is glued in place. Just waitinig on the batteries to solder up the conections and balance [8D]

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Going to be quite the beast.

Bdegan

Thats what I'm hoping
Here is the motor next to our clubs official scale-o-meter
And the little things to the right are motors for an outdoor foamie and an indoor foamie

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Now I have to wonder what is in your dark corner...

Bdegan

LOL
Thats actually my daughter's doodling. She sits there at my desk and watches movies on the computer. She usually ends up going through half a pad of post-it notes while she watches a movie. After she is done, I sometimes have a hard time to find the top of my desk

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I picked up my plane at Great Hobbies today. Everything is in excellent condition with only a couple of very small wrinkles. It is nice to see they are using some wood in their boxes now to protect the kit.

Bdegan

Super,
When it iis time to fly. Check the forward wing bolts each flight. Mine kept coming loose from vibrations. The rear ones never came loose.
I had to switch to a socket head cap screw and a lock washer to get them to stay tight.
Also if you push the fuel tank all the way back to the wing tube. The forward wing bolts are a bit awkward to get to.

The weather here tomorrow is supposed to be really nice and I wanted to re-maiden this electric version.
But my batteries are still sitting at the postal fascility awaiting customs inspection. Been there since monday [&o]

But.......One of the Heli guys at our club has stepped up and is going to lend me a couple of his 6s5000mah packs to finish the setup and balance today.
And I will be able to test fly it tomorrow [8D]

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the info on the wing bolts. I did see they were going to be a bit awkward as well. I won't be starting it for a bit though as I want to finish my 100cc Edge first, then I will move on to the Reactor. I see they haven't added any wood in the tail yet, so I will be reinforcing it like I did with my Paddy. Let us know how it flys compared to the 1.60.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Bedagen is correct about the front wing bolts coming loose and that they are hard to get to. It was recommended to me to use the wings bolts shown in the link. I much prefer them over the ones that came with the plane, they are easier to get tight.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUP0

Chuck

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Those are nice. They have a larger base which should increase the friction to help prevent them from coming loose as well.

Bdegan

I'm definately going to order some of those [8D]
I wish I would have known. I placed an order with Towers last week for a new cowl. Could have easily added them in.
Oh well, tomorrow is only a couple of test flights. Then this one will probably be shelved till spring anyway.
Then I will start to put together the Reactor Bipe 60 in electric for my winter beater

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Speaking of bipes I wonder if they are working on a 50cc Reactor Bipe? Might be a good replacement for my Python when it reaches it's expiry date...

Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

I use the Tower UCD wing bolts on all my planes. They are so much nicer than machine screws or screw head nylon screws. Easy to tighten and good holding capability.
When I bought my Giant UCD it came with these. I immediately ordered several packs for my other planes. They have discontinued the Giant UCD, I hope these don't sell out and then be discontinued also. I have enough.....for now.

On the canopy bolts, I don't use machine screws there either. What I do (and I did it on my 50CC Reactor) is remove the blind nut and drill the hole out to 1/4". Then I run my 1/4-20 tap through the hole. Then I drill the hole in the fuse out to 1/4" I then CA the thread (in the wood) that I ran my tap through to harder the threads. Then I use a 1/4-20 nylon screw to hold the canopy on. This is a real slick idea that works great on any plane and your canopy is forever secure and easy to remove. It works great.

Here's a picture of another plane I just did that way. Ends your loose screw problems forever.

thanks
Barry

Bdegan

Got everything finished tonight. Still some minor details to finish, but they are cosmetic. Small holes in the covering to patch where the ignition switch used to be etc. Also waiting for the new cowl to arrive. It still has the one from the DL50 for now.

As I said earlier, one of the Heli guys lent me a pair of his batteries to finish the set up and do a couple of test flights.

The all up weight with the batteries installed is 18lbs even. A little heavier than a gas set up, but capable of more power.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

It looks so bare in there with no tank and igniton.

Bdegan

HaHa Yeah it does look empty doesn't it.
In the cowl to. Just this little round thing called a motor that is not quite the size of a pop can.

The LiPo batteries alone are 3.5 lbs [X(]

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Expensive buggers too. I fly electrics during the winter months.

Bdegan

Not from Hobby king
The 6 cell 5000mah packs I have coming are only $59 each.
The Thunderpower's I have in the pics are just loaners while I wait for mine to arrive.
Batteries for my foamies are less than $6 each.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

That is where I ended up buying some as well. I got the Zippy 2000 batteries for what I needed.

RobertC

My Feedback: (157)

Super08: Going back to an earlier question of yours, I haven't seen anything about a 50cc Reactor bipe (heck, now that they are selling the DLE-100, why not make it a 100cc bipe!), but it does look like Great Planes has a new 50cc bipe coming out... a 25% Pitts M-12s!

http://www.towerhobbies.com/rcwnews/...-gpma1421.html

(No picture at the time of this post)


Bdegan: Nice work on the electric conversion, but are you really using rubber bands to hold the ESC on? That thing doesn't have the huge heat sink because it stays so cool!

By the way, my 50cc Reactor is still in the box, but should be ready by spring time. I keep toying with ways to mount a canister (we have noise restrictions at our field). Maybe I'll give in and go electric also (although 6s5000 LiPo's scare me a heck of a lot more than a 50cc gas engine!).

Bdegan

Did the remaiden today as an electric.
The first flight with the 23x10 prop was a dog. It had no pull.
The second flight went much better with a 22x12.
I will be getting a 23x12 for it next. It needs just a little more. With the 22x12, it had just a touch less power than the DL50. But easier to fly.
After the first flight the batteries were warm but not hot by any means. With the temp gun they read 86 degrees. The wires were cool, as were the Deans connectors. The Deans were just noticable that they had any warmth to them. The ESC was cool to the touch. Iwas quite surprised by this. The motor on the second flight was 146 degrees after doing a couple of hovers and some extended up lines to see how it pulled.

There was a small issue with the timing. If I advanced the throttle to quickly the ESC would loose sync with the motor.
One of our local electric guru's checked it out and said that was the most likely cause. He said he recognised the sound from when he had similar things happen to him. I will advance the timing for the next time I go fly it and see what happens.

Overall, I call it a success

Just some fine tuning and it should be a blast to fly. It was nice flying it around slower than with a fueled engine.
Felt relaxing with the quiet and being able to just fly around slowly.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Nice report.

Bdegan

I picked up the new cowl today. Cut the air cooling holes. The larger hole under the spinner lets the air flow directly across the ESC befor exiting out the bottom of the cowl and fuselage. The two smaller holes on each side of the spinner are in line on each side of the motor. Should allow air to flow over the sides of the motor.
The air exhaust hole on the bottom is 3 times the area of the inlet holes. That should allow for some good air velocity through the cowl for cooling.
I also downloaded the latest software and firmware updates for the Castle ESC. Ran it up in the basement this evening. No more timing issues [8D] Pulled hard with a really really smooth throttle response.
The weather here is holding around 8 to 10 degrees celcius. Sunday is looking pretty good. If all goes well I will get to test fly it again and see how it goes.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Without the mess and hassle of fuel she'll make a good winter flyer as well.