Great Planes Reactor 160?
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Hey all, thanks for the threads, I am building my Reactor 160, currently working on the tank assembly for gas, per the instruction I soldered some fuel line barbs (DUBQ0670) on the brass tubes bought the Dubro neoprene gas fuel line (in-tank) (DUBQ0455). And I'm having a very hard time getting the fuel line over the barbs, did anyone else have the same issue?
LOL my finders are hurting, and still just barely have the fuel line over the barbs.
LOL my finders are hurting, and still just barely have the fuel line over the barbs.
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
ORIGINAL: hicks
Hey all, thanks for the threads, I am building my Reactor 160, currently working on the tank assembly for gas, per the instruction I soldered some fuel line barbs (DUBQ0670) on the brass tubes bought the Dubro neoprene gas fuel line (in-tank) (DUBQ0455). And I'm having a very hard time getting the fuel line over the barbs, did anyone else have the same issue?
LOL my finders are hurting, and still just barely have the fuel line over the barbs.
Hey all, thanks for the threads, I am building my Reactor 160, currently working on the tank assembly for gas, per the instruction I soldered some fuel line barbs (DUBQ0670) on the brass tubes bought the Dubro neoprene gas fuel line (in-tank) (DUBQ0455). And I'm having a very hard time getting the fuel line over the barbs, did anyone else have the same issue?
LOL my finders are hurting, and still just barely have the fuel line over the barbs.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD739&P=M
Also there is some peoplr reporting problems with neoprene in gas tanks, neoprene clunk fuel line gumming up the screen.
#554
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Thanks, makes sense, seems an error in the direction, I already have the tygon and will rebuild, although I didn’t know you had to replace it every year, good tip, I will advise others in the club.
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
is necessary to replace and check once in a while cause one day you will do inverted and the line will not be flex enough to bend, so you will have a dead stick(of course im just going on the extreme side) but it can happen.
good luck.
good luck.
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Going to mount the DLE 55, I am understanding 4-7 oz is needed to the tail for CG, thought I’d cut a hole in the fuse behind the canopy hatch, building a battery try as far back in the fuse as it will allow me to reach,
but I also had another Idea, believing the suggested 3†stand-offs holds the carburetor away from the fire-wall, why not cut a hole in the fire-wall for the carburetor, using shorter stand-offs moving the CG some back?
but I also had another Idea, believing the suggested 3†stand-offs holds the carburetor away from the fire-wall, why not cut a hole in the fire-wall for the carburetor, using shorter stand-offs moving the CG some back?
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
ORIGINAL: hicks
Going to mount the DLE 55, I am understanding 4-7 oz is needed to the tail for CG, thought I’d cut a hole in the fuse behind the canopy hatch, building a battery try as far back in the fuse as it will allow me to reach,
but I also had another Idea, believing the suggested 3” stand-offs holds the carburetor away from the fire-wall, why not cut a hole in the fire-wall for the carburetor, using shorter stand-offs moving the CG some back?
Going to mount the DLE 55, I am understanding 4-7 oz is needed to the tail for CG, thought I’d cut a hole in the fuse behind the canopy hatch, building a battery try as far back in the fuse as it will allow me to reach,
but I also had another Idea, believing the suggested 3” stand-offs holds the carburetor away from the fire-wall, why not cut a hole in the fire-wall for the carburetor, using shorter stand-offs moving the CG some back?
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Hicks,
I used a DL50 with a wrap around Pitts muffler which left only 1/16" gap between the muffler and firewall. If you are using the stock muffler you probably can get by moving the engine back further. I've got about 3.5 oz in the tail of mine with the battery a the rear most stock location. There is a four servo opening at the rear of the plane where you can add a fourth servo case filled with shot gun pellets and epoxy. Several of us have done this.
Chuck
I used a DL50 with a wrap around Pitts muffler which left only 1/16" gap between the muffler and firewall. If you are using the stock muffler you probably can get by moving the engine back further. I've got about 3.5 oz in the tail of mine with the battery a the rear most stock location. There is a four servo opening at the rear of the plane where you can add a fourth servo case filled with shot gun pellets and epoxy. Several of us have done this.
Chuck
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Believing the DLE 55 should have plenty of power even if I do add 7 ounces to the tail, I also plan on getting the carbon wing tube which should counter the over-all weight.
Chuck, do you prop hang, if so, where is the throttle?
Chuck, do you prop hang, if so, where is the throttle?
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Hicks
I'm not good on hovering, but this plane is helping me a lot because of the long tail. Regarding power, maybe half throttle, the engine has excellent power in this plane, vertical is out of sight. I'm not sure where you've heard of the 7 oz, my experience is more in the 3-4oz range with the Pitts wrap around which is heavier than the stock muffler. I haven't flown mine in about a month because of cataracts are making it too hard to see the plane. Tuesday I get my second eye done, so I hope to be flying again late next week.
Chuck
I'm not good on hovering, but this plane is helping me a lot because of the long tail. Regarding power, maybe half throttle, the engine has excellent power in this plane, vertical is out of sight. I'm not sure where you've heard of the 7 oz, my experience is more in the 3-4oz range with the Pitts wrap around which is heavier than the stock muffler. I haven't flown mine in about a month because of cataracts are making it too hard to see the plane. Tuesday I get my second eye done, so I hope to be flying again late next week.
Chuck
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Hi guys, I'm just about ready to install my control horns. Do any of you know what kind of wood is at the hard plate areas. I going with DUB866's or the heavy duty Sullivans. Some recommend drilling a larger hole and installing a hardwood plug to drill for the screw. Especially when just countersinking the sullivan screws. Anyone done it this way ? I have the Moki 210 installed now. I'll include a pic next time if anyone is interested. Thanks, Bob.
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
I think its just a ply plate over balsa.
Drill your pilot hole smaller than the screw. Run the screw into the hole then remove.
Drip some thin CA into the hole. It will harden the threads you just cut cut with the screw.
Let it dry to harden the wood then mount the control horn. I have never had on pull out.
Drill your pilot hole smaller than the screw. Run the screw into the hole then remove.
Drip some thin CA into the hole. It will harden the threads you just cut cut with the screw.
Let it dry to harden the wood then mount the control horn. I have never had on pull out.
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Hicks,
You're funny! You worry about a few oz here and there, and you're using a 24 oz tank. You can dump 8 oz of dead weight by going to a 16 oz tank, which is what I use. I set my timer for 12 minutes, then land with a 1/3 to 1/2 a tank left, and I'm somewhat heavy on the throttle. BTW, I'm just teasing with my first too sentences. In reviewing a couple of your earlier posts, this must be your first gas engine. They burn a lot less fuel than glow engines plus they are a lot cleaner, once they get broken in. There will be black gunk on the bottom of the fuselage for a gallon or so of fuel until it is broken in. You might want to have a club member who flies gas to give you a hand for the first couple of flights. Why don't you PM me your email address so I can send you some information on a $.50 modification to the carb that a lot of us do to eliminate potential tuning issues, plus I can answer any engine related questions you might have without being off topic on this thread. I have two DL50's and have had five or six Zenoahs.
Chuck
You're funny! You worry about a few oz here and there, and you're using a 24 oz tank. You can dump 8 oz of dead weight by going to a 16 oz tank, which is what I use. I set my timer for 12 minutes, then land with a 1/3 to 1/2 a tank left, and I'm somewhat heavy on the throttle. BTW, I'm just teasing with my first too sentences. In reviewing a couple of your earlier posts, this must be your first gas engine. They burn a lot less fuel than glow engines plus they are a lot cleaner, once they get broken in. There will be black gunk on the bottom of the fuselage for a gallon or so of fuel until it is broken in. You might want to have a club member who flies gas to give you a hand for the first couple of flights. Why don't you PM me your email address so I can send you some information on a $.50 modification to the carb that a lot of us do to eliminate potential tuning issues, plus I can answer any engine related questions you might have without being off topic on this thread. I have two DL50's and have had five or six Zenoahs.
Chuck
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Hicks,
The carbs on our airplane engines are mainly used on things like chainsaw and weedwackers where the air pressure around the carb is constant. In airplane applications, the air pressure varies depending on speed, cowl design, plane attitude, rpm. On some applications, like shown in the picture with the engine mounted on the plane, the engine just wouldn't run properly in the air, but ran great on the ground. Under the cover that the hose goes into on the carb, is the gas metering diaphragm which is open to the atmosphere. When the plane is traveling fast, the air pressure changes the fuel/air mixture. On that particular plane, the engine idled great on the ground, but it would die 90% of the time at idle while in the air until the modification. Zero dead sticks afterward. The idle to keep it running was too high to land the plane. Some engines are affected more than others, some not at all. What you should do is get the brass fitting from your local hardware store in the plumbing department, solder it to the center of the plate, drill a hole through it, and seal the other hole in the plate with silicone. Attach a piece tygon or neoprene hose to it and run it inside the fuselage. Remember to remove the plate to do the soldering and drilling.
Chuck
The carbs on our airplane engines are mainly used on things like chainsaw and weedwackers where the air pressure around the carb is constant. In airplane applications, the air pressure varies depending on speed, cowl design, plane attitude, rpm. On some applications, like shown in the picture with the engine mounted on the plane, the engine just wouldn't run properly in the air, but ran great on the ground. Under the cover that the hose goes into on the carb, is the gas metering diaphragm which is open to the atmosphere. When the plane is traveling fast, the air pressure changes the fuel/air mixture. On that particular plane, the engine idled great on the ground, but it would die 90% of the time at idle while in the air until the modification. Zero dead sticks afterward. The idle to keep it running was too high to land the plane. Some engines are affected more than others, some not at all. What you should do is get the brass fitting from your local hardware store in the plumbing department, solder it to the center of the plate, drill a hole through it, and seal the other hole in the plate with silicone. Attach a piece tygon or neoprene hose to it and run it inside the fuselage. Remember to remove the plate to do the soldering and drilling.
Chuck
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
ORIGINAL: hicks
Believing the DLE 55 should have plenty of power even if I do add 7 ounces to the tail, I also plan on getting the carbon wing tube which should counter the over-all weight.
Chuck, do you prop hang, if so, where is the throttle?
Believing the DLE 55 should have plenty of power even if I do add 7 ounces to the tail, I also plan on getting the carbon wing tube which should counter the over-all weight.
Chuck, do you prop hang, if so, where is the throttle?
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
hicks
I have had over the years many gas engines of all sizes and never have i had to do the mod that chuck has showen us. I currently have a DL 50 in my reactor after it was broke in and adjusted it runs like a jewel no mods try it first before you start messing with the carb some times you can mess up a good thing
I have had over the years many gas engines of all sizes and never have i had to do the mod that chuck has showen us. I currently have a DL 50 in my reactor after it was broke in and adjusted it runs like a jewel no mods try it first before you start messing with the carb some times you can mess up a good thing
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Go Vertical,
After having the same running problem on two different engines, I automatically just do it on new engines as a preventive measure. I've seen a couple of other people struggling with engine running issues, make the modification and come back smiling. I'm speculating, but the DL50-55's should be less prone to the issue because the carb is in the rear.
Chuck
After having the same running problem on two different engines, I automatically just do it on new engines as a preventive measure. I've seen a couple of other people struggling with engine running issues, make the modification and come back smiling. I'm speculating, but the DL50-55's should be less prone to the issue because the carb is in the rear.
Chuck
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
chuck
I know that a lot of flyers do this mod for some it fixes a problem but I have also seen the so called fix make it worse or at best no fix . I have used 5 different makes of gas engines in many different typs of planes and never had to do the mod that you have proposed it may or may not be a good fix but I go by the old saying IF IT'S NOT BROKE DON'T FIX IT try it first if it runs fine let it alone just my 2c
I know that a lot of flyers do this mod for some it fixes a problem but I have also seen the so called fix make it worse or at best no fix . I have used 5 different makes of gas engines in many different typs of planes and never had to do the mod that you have proposed it may or may not be a good fix but I go by the old saying IF IT'S NOT BROKE DON'T FIX IT try it first if it runs fine let it alone just my 2c
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
Well mine is complete. I just had a three day, no one home, do nothing but build streak. I re-enforced the stab mount and the gear mount during the build. Put a light mist of aluminum paint on the inside of the canopy. I also built a battery tray to fit inside the rear fuselage after hearing about everyone having to add a few ounces to the tail.
DLE55
J-Tec TF wrap around
Forgues 3.25" aluminum standoffs
Hitec 5645's (645 on ttl)
Futaba 10C 2.4
42% optical kill
42% 5200mah LiIon
ThunderboltRC regulator
Futaba matchbox
Ashlok connecters on Ailerons
Secraft aluminum servo arms
Ball links throughout
TruTurn ultimate spinner
Aeroworks wheels
Weight came in at 17lbs even. I had to add .75 oz to the tail to balance on the wing tube just a hair tail down. I put epoxied the lead to the bottom side of the stab inside the fuselage. Access was through the opening for the rudder servo. Only a 10 minute job.
DLE55
J-Tec TF wrap around
Forgues 3.25" aluminum standoffs
Hitec 5645's (645 on ttl)
Futaba 10C 2.4
42% optical kill
42% 5200mah LiIon
ThunderboltRC regulator
Futaba matchbox
Ashlok connecters on Ailerons
Secraft aluminum servo arms
Ball links throughout
TruTurn ultimate spinner
Aeroworks wheels
Weight came in at 17lbs even. I had to add .75 oz to the tail to balance on the wing tube just a hair tail down. I put epoxied the lead to the bottom side of the stab inside the fuselage. Access was through the opening for the rudder servo. Only a 10 minute job.
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RE: Great Planes Reactor 120-160?
ORIGINAL: Super08
Well mine is complete. I just had a three day, no one home, do nothing buy build streak. I re-enforced the stab mount and the gear mount during the build. Put a light mist of aluminum paint on the inside of the canopy. I also built a battery tray to fit inside the rear fuselage after hearing about everyone having to add a few ounces to the tail.
DLE55
J-Tec TF wrap around
Hitec 5645's (645 on ttl)
Futaba 10C 2.4
42% optical kill
42% 5200mah LiIon
ThunderboltRC regulator
Futaba matchbox
Ashlok connecters on Ailerons
Secraft aluminum servo arms
Ball links throughout
TruTurn ultimate spinner
Aeroworks wheels
Weight came in at 17lbs even. I had to add .75 oz to the tail to balance on the wing tube just a hair tail down. I put epoxied the lead to the bottom side of the stab inside the fuselage. Access was through the opening for the rudder servo. Only a 10 minute job.
Well mine is complete. I just had a three day, no one home, do nothing buy build streak. I re-enforced the stab mount and the gear mount during the build. Put a light mist of aluminum paint on the inside of the canopy. I also built a battery tray to fit inside the rear fuselage after hearing about everyone having to add a few ounces to the tail.
DLE55
J-Tec TF wrap around
Hitec 5645's (645 on ttl)
Futaba 10C 2.4
42% optical kill
42% 5200mah LiIon
ThunderboltRC regulator
Futaba matchbox
Ashlok connecters on Ailerons
Secraft aluminum servo arms
Ball links throughout
TruTurn ultimate spinner
Aeroworks wheels
Weight came in at 17lbs even. I had to add .75 oz to the tail to balance on the wing tube just a hair tail down. I put epoxied the lead to the bottom side of the stab inside the fuselage. Access was through the opening for the rudder servo. Only a 10 minute job.