I have recently bought a UCD3D 60-90. I have read alot of earlier threads, but difficult to find if there should be done any modifications before assembling and starting to use it.

Sorry for my broken english

Best regards
Alf Hansen
Norway
http://www.albatrossairshows.com

Here's what I did:

>>Add about 2-3 degrees of right thrust on the motor (I think I recall reading somewhere that the newer UCD kits might have the thrust already built in. My kit didn't have any, so check yours before hand.)

>>Take ALL of the supplied 2-56 rods and replace them with 4-40 rods. (2-56 is okay for the throttle)

>>Replace the tailwheel assembly. The supplied one will put too much stress on the rudder hinges the first bad landing. (I used a Sullivan unit.)

>>Some have had concerns on the horizontal stabs. I added light weight fly wires which are no more than kevlar string threaded thru the horizontal and vertical stabs (CA glued in place), then attached at the lower part of the fuse with couplers.

>>Reinforce the landing gear block as this is a weak area. Just pre cuts some triangle stock and epoxy it in place. (not a lot of room to work here so make sure your pieces fit before you glue in place. A small inspection mirror helps here.)

>>Out of personal preference, I did not use the CA hinges but rather installed Klett pin-point hinges. (Again, this is personal preference, many like the CA hinges with 50 degree throws......I do not)

>>If you are going with a YS engine or using a pump, it is VERY favorable to put the tank on the CG. This requires a little cutting and sanding to make the tank fit.


Best of luck, I'm sure you will get more responces but you will enjoy this plane.

.............Mark

Mark, could you post some pics of how you hooked up the kevlar ? That will be great. Thx.........

Do not forget to strengthen the firewall also.

is everybody using the supplied control horns? They seem pretty flexible. I am debating about using Sullivan, Robarts, or the like. Thanks,..

Here ya go:

Some notes:

To avoid interfering with the rud/elev push rods, I mounted the wire to the side of the fuse. To do this I simple cut a small square hole where the trailing edge of the whole is butted up against a former. I then epoxied a square hardwood stick (about 3/8" x 1 1/4 " I guess) up against the former and then covered with Monokote. this became the "hardpoint" for the fly wires. Once I threaded the kevlar through the holes in the stabs, I then rough cut it to size. I used some 2/56 solder rods (the things you solder on the end of rods so you now have threads on both ends) and simply dripped some CA in there after tucking the thread in the end. I used smali pieces of aluminum that I had laying around from some Nelson arms to and screwed these into the hardpoint in the fuse and bent them at the appropriate angle to accespt the 2/56 plastick clevis. When everthing is done and somewhat tight, just wick some CA into the holes in the stabs where the kevlar is threaded though.

Hope this helps (and hope I can shink the photo)

.........Mark

Here's a close-up:

Mark. great pics ! Could you post a pic of the spot where you threaded the kevlar string through ? What's the diameter of the kevlar string you're using ? This method sure is lighter than using cables or rods. Thx........

Not much to look at:

I strung the thread through the trailing edge of the horizontal stab but close to the leading edge of the vertical stab. This is done to minimize the angles that are caused by running the wire through the trailing edge of the vertical stab. I'm not concerned with the location of the thread in the vert. stab as this has been pretty robust on the planes. It's the horiz stab that has people concerned. The photo in the thread below shows the angles when complete.

Size is .025 O.D.. 180 lb stensile strength!! The stuff I have is from EMS Jomar Products (emsjomar.com Look under "reliability enhancments")
It's called "Aramid Rigging Cable":

Quote from site:

..... ARAMID (Kevlar 29) RIGGING CABLE
Totally eliminates problems caused by metal flying wires, tail bracing, pull-pull cable systems and more! Replace that nasty wire with this non-conductive DuPont KEVLAR 29 material. 180 pound strength. Measures .025 OD with circular cross section. Dark Green in color - can be painted. No “fuzzies” like other brands, 20 feet. $10.00

Hope this helps.........Mark

Side view of angles.....(sorry for photo quality from the flash)

Vertical stab attachment point:

Horizontal stab attachment point:

Mark, much obliged.................Mike

I used the supplied control horns on all but the rudder. If I recall the only reason I changed the rudder was to make it longer for better clearence.

.........Mark

You're most welcome...................Mark

Mark, I am looking at Dubro's new HD control horn for the rudder. Part number is 867. It's pretty new and looks quite similar to MK's setup. I am checking out on the weight as it uses a 1.5" 6-32 bolt. Much simpler to install compared to the nylon horn

That should work great but might be overkill. I can't recall the brand I used but it basically is a 6-32 screw that threads through two small plastic pieces that are shaped like a kite. Not much more weight than the stock control arm. Let me know if this makes sense. I can take a picture of it if you need. It's held up well for all the thrashing it gets and shows not signs of bending or stress at the attachment area.

The new Dubro HD set up looks very impressive. I have a friend that is installing their new pull-pull kit (similar in design to the 867) on a 36% 3W Extra.

found it..........

It's a Dubro #493



.......Mark

Yeah the 493 is a simpler and lighter setup. Just checked the catalog and it says "5-40x1-1/2" round head screws", not 6-32. Perhaps I'll go for this one as it is also much cheaper than the 867. BTW, just ordered two rolls of kevlar from EMS......