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RE: U Can Do 3D
mine is collecting dust things that make u go hum!
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RE: U Can Do 3D
Same here, its a dust bunny. Flew it once since I got the Extra Fun, so I thought the UCD would be my winter plane. Without skis I guess its not going to happen. Joe
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RE: U Can Do 3D
Mine has been hanging up since before I had to send the 1.00 in for warranty bearings.
I guess that's been since a week or two before Thanksgiving. Now with snow on the ground, cold weather and no skis if it wasn't for the "foamie" I'd be grounded! JLK |
RE: U Can Do 3D
sounds like you guys are having trouble with your saito 100's. I had to send mine in too. bearings went bad after just a gallon of fuel. Horizon covered it under warrenty. i was just curious as to what the problem was and are the replacement ones better? (i've only run the engine on a test stand because i was using a different engine that belonged to another guy and the plane crashed. oh well, Mojo 60 HERE I COME!!!!!
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RE: U Can Do 3D
fun fly,
My rear crank bearing retainer failed after less than 6 gallons of Sig 25% Nitro, 20% oil...1/2 and 1/2 castor and synthetic. They replaced both bearings under warranty but I hope I didn't have any cylinder wall or piston damage. I haven't run it or taken it apart since it was returned. JLK |
RE: U Can Do 3D
When I was running a S 100 the bearings went on the third gallon of 30% nitro. They said it was from not useing after run oil and would not cover it. On their recomenndation I used the 30% due to the higher oil content. Both bearings went and the cam lobe wore a groove it from the push rod guides. Gimme a break, the thing was about 2 months in use. Joe
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RE: U Can Do 3D
they are smoking crack.. they know there is a bearing issue on the s-100s ... i havent run after run oil on any of my engines ive had since 1983 and i still have 2. i f i wanted too i could fire them up now.. BTW the 2 i have are OS FP series 2 stroke one .25 one .40
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RE: U Can Do 3D
After Joe's flight reports I sold my FA-100 and bought my first YS-110FZ :D. After getting into gasoline it really is hard to go back to glow and have to clean that gooey mess. I'll keep the 110 though as it is the best running glow engine I ever had. Happy Holidays All :)
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RE: U Can Do 3D
I have SA100, it only lasted about 20 flights before the bearings rusted, it ran but made a scraping noise, Horizon didnt cover it,bearings are not covered under the warranty. The cost wasnt much but I was surprised they werent covered. Using the higher nitro(20-30%) is rough on a glow engine, even the fuel tubing doesnt last very long. I took a fairly new fuel tank apart to do something and noticed the tubing was getting mushy,never happend that soon with 5-10%.Another reason to go G-A-S.
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RE: U Can Do 3D
This is a good source for replacement bearings including ceramic.
http://rc-bearings.com/ Plus Paul is a heck of a nice guy and very knowledgeable. I have bought 4 bearing sets from him while going over my engines that sat for 15 years while I was out of the hobby. I'm becomming quite expert at installing them! :) JLK |
RE: U Can Do 3D
Got UCD # 2 all set up, need a little more adjustment on rudd-ail mix, still wobbles in HA KE, doesn't snap out but the wobble is a problem.Need a calm day to fine tune it. I still can't believe I've used up all 7 open mixes plus air-brake,elev-flap for this plane. They all do something unique.P-Mix # 6&7 are really different, they have 5 segments, you can set up each individually. Segment 3 is the middle portion (center), of travel, segment 1&2 and 3&4 are left-right or up-down travel. I used the segments with rudd-ail mix, the slave(ail) deflects only when rudder is 50% of travel or more, I have segment 3 set to 0% mix to do this. Interesting mix.
Here the mixes I'm using: 1.) elev-flap # 1, (up elev causes up spoilerons)for steering in HA KE 2.) elev-flap # 2, (up elev causes down flaperon)for square loops,water-falls 3.) air-brake ,(flaperons are offset up when at low throttle and elevator is at neutral, if up elev is applied, the flaperons drop to center or if throttle is applied(throttle-up)the flaperons drop to center.I had to use 2 P-mixes along with air-brake all set to the same switch, this mix is essential to keep the UCD from floating when I want to touch down. I can make the plane do "wheelies" on the ground by pumping throttle and pulling up until the wheels lift off the ground, immediately drop the throttle & let go of elevator and the plane drops right back to the ground! Do this repeatedly and the planes hops down the runway.(for landing & fooling around on the ground)-yes I have bent the gear if I'm not careful and it sometimes lifts off unexpectedly. TIMING! 4.)elev-flap #3, (flaperons are offset up when elev is neutral, when up elev is applied, I get more up spoilerons, used for harriers. 5.)rudd-ail (reduces roll coupling) for KE and HA KE. (some of these mixes use 2 P-mixes) |
RE: U Can Do 3D
I'm so glad I got a 2d UCD, the first one was a bear to harrier,snaps to inverted unpredictably, this one is almost unbelievable,harriers rock steady @ very HA ,looks wierd(but cool)so slow with the nose at a 45Deg. or more. It has to be all in the setups,CG's & wing loading too,1/2 lb less than the other one.Its not pattern smooth but with mixing & trims this plane is one to have for nothing but fun, I will have one as long as they make'em.
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RE: U Can Do 3D
Where is your cg?
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RE: U Can Do 3D
:)mixmaster...
My sentiments exactly. I love the UCDs. I have a 60 with a YS 110. My most fun airplane to fly. I have others that cost more and do many things better especially precision maneuvers. But the UCD is just more fun to fly. And after you've had one a while and get used to flying it and get it trimmed properly (forever ongoing) they really fly good. Even KE. Anyways, great airplanes. I'll always have one...or two...or three. Thanks Bud |
RE: U Can Do 3D
My first one was about 6" back(have fuel tank over CG on both),2d plane is about 5.5 " back. I could go back more as it drops slightly when inverted but I dont see the need now, having too much fun!
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RE: U Can Do 3D
Yup,many people bash the UCD but if you take it for what it is,cheap,fun,simple build, extremely wide flight envelope, its just plane crazy!
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RE: U Can Do 3D
Hi i´m putting a ST G90 on it, this is my second plane ever steping up from a trainer, I have a Q. how do you secure the wing if you dont want to glue it all togheter? small car and hard to transport so, I need two parts how do I set the wing from the bottom with no screws or bolts? Thanks
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RE: U Can Do 3D
The wing is already joined, all you have to do is glue on the belly pan, only the stab is removable if you dont want to glue it on. I went with gluing in the stab bolts as well, if the wing wont fit in the car,get smaller plane or bigger car.(I dont like the .46 UCD as much as the .60, the .60 is smoother and less sensitive controls)
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RE: U Can Do 3D
Are you asking if you can use rubber bands to set the wing on the bottom of the plane? The answer is you don't. That is a bad design and a hassle anyways. The bolts are easier. The 2 bolts is a heck of a lot easier than most split wing aircraft. You have a bolt for each wing on the inside which is usually hard to get to and then you have to screw the canopy on... pain in the butt.
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RE: U Can Do 3D
I was given one to try for a local hobby shop and didn't like it much. It was really sloppy and flew below expectations. I tried several different motors (brushed and brushless) and never found a good combo. The best setup was using a brushed 350. The plane is not too heavy and all you need to do for the CG is move the battery forward or backward in the compartment to balance the plane. It didn't fly like a "true" 3D plane. I much prefer my Foamtana. It was pretty durable though. I crashed it several times doing stuff too close to the ground and repaired it no problem with hot glue. I don't recommend it unless you are just starting in 3D and are only looking for a "transition" plane.
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RE: U Can Do 3D
I got out the Dremel last night and beveled the bottom trailing edges of the wing so I can have a shot at inverted Harriers with the UCD. Its so stable up-right,want to get the whole enchalata. I did this with the upper part and it worked great.Need more spoileron throw to Harrier than the stock configuration gives. Also, elev-flap mixing also inhibits the required amount of spoilerons to Harrier, all you can get is 100% mix and thats it. That leaves a lot of lost deflection, I guess the radio does this so you can still have some aileron travel on top of the spoilerons.I found 2 ways around this;1) Use p-mixes to set an ofset to flaps&ail and then set up elev-flap mix to the same switch used for the ofset(3 mixes to one switch). The down-side of this method is you can only have either up or down spoilerons,not both. 2)First I set up standard elev-flap mix to 100%, then set up elev-flap mix on another switch with p-mixs to the desired % travel to get your plane to Harrier. Need to hit 2 switches to do this but you get all the spoileron travel in both directions.The radio seems to add the 2 mixs together to get more throw than with just 1 mix,I remember leaving a switch on while in flight and then turning on another to get undesirable results. In this case, the 2 switches & mixes work in my favor, just having either one on doesnt do anything bad either. I did make sure there is still some ail travel at max spoilerons so there is no binding and have some roll control. Need to go to this extent when you have MASSIVE THROWS!
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RE: U Can Do 3D
Found out I dont have to use 2 switches to use multiple like-mixes,I tried it on one switch & it worked. I set up elev-flap mix to switch C,100% mix, then used 2 open P-mixes to set up elev-flap&elev to ail mix at 85%-this gives me a lot more spoileron travel than just the one mix would allow-rolling harriers /inverted harriers, here I come!(well maybe after a few more gallons of practice.)
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RE: U Can Do 3D
Well the extra work on the wing & mixing payed off, the Do does rolling Harriers!!!! After some failed attempts, I discovered that momentary blips of throttle just as the plane rolls to upright helps keep the nose up and prevents total stall & fall. I think they should call them "snapping Harriers". I found that adding in a lot of rudder in addition to ail. makes it roll,just ail. alone didn't seem to make it roll. I actually held the maneuver long enough to get the plane to do a circle,no conscious effort on my part, I think the "weather vane" effect had more to do with it. I tried inverted Harriers and met with the same results as usual-it just goes into a slow spin and I couldnt get on the rudder enough to fly straight-still a struggle.Any way,don't under estimate the Do,flying 3D with any plane can take a long time(if you only fly once a week)you may have to own a second or third plane before it all comes together.( I also discovered it does great "outside" waterfalls.)
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RE: U Can Do 3D
If all goes well,will have video of my "Do" and another guy flying a 35% Extra w/smoke soon, a club members cousin had a digital video camera w/20GB hard drive,& it was sunny so it should come out decent. That camera was small enough to fit in your pocket! No tape anymore, it had enough storage for 9hrs of video!
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RE: U Can Do 3D
Had one more outing to practice rolling harriers before the weather shut us down. Its getting better with each try,really have to work on the timing & visual co-ordination,throttle moments especially tricky. Its pretty awesome when things are clicking,goes bad in a hurry when not.I can see its going to take practice-practice-practice like a mental patient. Maybe this summer....rolling harriers on the deck.....For me, 3D has to be an obsession or else I'll never get there,might not anyway but even just a little progress keeps me going. Cant wait till Spring..........BTW,this thread is dying along with the Giant UCD,come on Do lovers every where,chime in on one of the most popular planes ever..lands like a trainer,does some pattern,IMAC,sport flying,3-D,& some unknowns too.
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