RE: U Can Do 3D
 

It was on my front porch yesterday,weather is crap for the weekend,running out of things to do with the Double Vision , so I might as well shoot for finishing the Do while I'm waiting for parts for the DV. It is strange, I have some other planes that are supposed to be "world class",used by some of the best flyers in the world, yet I can do more with a U-Can-Do than any of the others thus far. Maybe its because I learned on it first and fly it the most,plus my first gasser is giving me fits on the low-mid range,thats another reason why the Do seems to be "it" right now.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

the pucker facter is probally a lot better to :D if you still have all your raido mixes for your do id be greatfull if you posted them if the weathers good for flyin tomarrow ill be trying to set mine up and that would be a great starting point

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

You might not want to know all of them,thats why I'm the "MIXMASTER"! If you do not have Futaba 8UA or 9C,you probably wont be able to do everything I do. Here's the basics:

1.) spoileron mix(elevator is Master, ailerons is Slave,both ailerons go Up with Up elevator)You can use elev-flap built in mix with Link-on for this,set to 100%. This will only give you spoileron travel of 50% actual movement(on Futaba), to get more you will need to set-up aditional P-mixes to the same surfaces & switch to get more travel, which is needed IMO to get the Do to lock in a harrier. I also have to add tri-stock to the wing trailing edges to get this volume of travel. I use this for harriers mainly but also for "front & rear steering" in HA KE flight. (switch "C" up active)

2.)elevator-flap mix # 2,(does the reverse of mix #1) Up-elevator causes down flaps(both ailerons) and vise-versa. I use open P-mixes to do this & put it on a different switch so I dont mistake it for the spoileron mix. I think I use close to 100% mix, which gives elevator & ailerons the same amount of travel. This mix is for square loops & tight turns.

3.)air-brake mix(built in mix with Futaba 8&9):I set this up to offset spoilerons up 35-50% when switch "C" is down. This is also linked to throttle in offset mode,when more throttle is needed,the spoilerons drop in sync with throttle up. This mix is useful on any lightly loaded "fat" wing like the Do that has aft CG, I use it to land in windy conditions or when I want it to land with a very short approach,comes down at 45% angles,seems to just "drop" right in front of you! Now the kicker: I also add in another open mix to drop the spoilerons when up-elevator is pulled,(for the flare), if you come down too fast with spoilerons up,sometimes you can smack the ground pretty hard even if you pull up, so I added in this P-mix to Air Brake mix,(set to same switch "C" position). This way, when its time to flare & land, the spoilerons drop with up elevator so the wing regains its lift at a critical moment.(touch down)

4.) rudder-aileron mix: Use open P-mix to fix any roll coupling when rudder is applied. Right rudder causes a little left aileron & vise versa. The Do usually needs a small % mix, like 5-10% max. I can leave this mix on all the time as long as the % is low.

5.)You can mix out any bad KE coupling with rudder-elevator mix as needed, if it pulls to the belly, add some up elevator with rudder. I dont use this on my Do even though it does couple kind of bad,I fly it so much I can adjust with my thumbs automattically.

Sorry for the long post, but you asked & this is how I set-up every Do. As far as I know, only Futaba 8&9 radios have this much flexibility.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

thanks a lot cant do all of it but most of it i can got a t6x has the built in airbrake but i cant remember if i can tie the throttle in with it like bit that gives me a good idea at what im lookin at

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)Mixmaster...

Good info. Don't forget about the 12Z it can do it all and.....with a complex wing you can more easily set up "air brake" and full span aileron, flaps, spoileron etc. Love it.

I use almost all the same mixes as you...except the landing one. I just dial in a bit of spoileron with my knob and adjust as necessary for extra/less wind.

thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Do #4 almost done, I'm using CF tape & tubing in critical areas, hoping it will stay together if I ever touch down again while hovering in a strong cross wind. Not that I plan on doing that again, but CF adds little weight for the strength . This build was easy since I didnt take the engine off the mounts, just had to screw it on with muffler & mounts all attached. I also had all the pushrods from #3 plus receiver & wires,tank, ect.,all pre-assembled. I didnt even open up the manual for this build. I kept the battery from the X100, its a 2500 mah Nimh 4.8V pack, going to see how that effects 3-D, I forgot why I pulled it from the X100 & put in 6V. Will find out-again. I added a tad more right thrust & up. My last Do really pulled left hard in Harriers & RH,had to use full rudder(momentarily) just to keep it straight. Its amazing how different models handle in 3-D. The rudder on the Velox is extremely touchy in harriers, on the Do, it barely has the control necessary. If all goes well, I'll have 2 or 3 planes ready for the next club fly-in,camp over,bad boy weekend in 2 weeks.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Do #4 weight: 8.25 lbs. with old faithfull OS 1.08 & 4.8V battery. Just about the same weight as #3. I put in a rebuilt Cline unit with new internal parts,the old system wasn't holding tank pressure, I was about to replace the tank once I was sure the Cline unit wasnt the fault, but then I turned the stopper screw a few turns in and VOILA! I just need a tail wheel & its done. I still have not had an engine run as perfect as this old used OS 1.08 that was given to me. Even the new 1.20 AX is a notch behind. I think its the combination of engine & the Do thats keeps me coming back to it. With such precise throttle increments, I can control elevation in hovers beautifully, a click up & it climbs,a click down & it falls slowly, fun-fun-fun & thrilling to TOUCH TAIL!
Does anybody really know what the proper way is to balance laterally? I notice that there is a huge difference in weight required with respect to balancing from the prop shaft or the actual fuse centerline. I used to use the prop shaft but due to right thrust, I think the center line is correct?

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)Mixmaster...

Congratulations on another DO. Never a bad choice.

I balance mine laterally by putting a screw underneath, at the center of the "tunnel/trough" and then run a line around the tailwheel bracket, on center, and the screw. Than I hang it from the ceiling and see which side is heavier and then add a weight to the light side. This takes the motor out of play yet allows for it to be balanced as well.

THanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I got a chance to fly a 60 Do yesterday. WoW! [X(] I liked it!! A guy at the field finished the build on his and didn't want to maiden it himself. I couldn't let the poor guy suffer not seeing it fly so I took it up for him. Very nice! I may have to spring for one. [8D]

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

That's exactly where I screwed in a hook, its the only place really. The difference in weight to balance was a lot, I only needed 1/2 oz or so from the center line, from the prop shaft I needed a few oz. I think I have so much right thrust that the engine itself is balance along the center line, usually the muffler makes one side heavy. This weekend is looking real good,70's,sun, oh boy!!!!

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Hey Mix, you're running the OS 1.08 also right? I have put in alot of right thrust so far, and cuz of the torque it still wants more! LOL.... I have also been goofing around with a ton of different props, including your cut down 17" Zinger, which worked quite well, but found this plane absolutely LOVES the APC 16x4W prop. I am also almost at 6" back on cg, and am thinking it could almost go farther. It's flying good, and I love doing tailwheel first landings.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I quit using APC mainly because of the spool up time being slower than a lighter wood prop, its real important to make quick vertical adjustments while hovering down on the deck. When you're only inches from the ground, you want to be able to get up immediately if it should start dropping,unless you want to tail touch of course! My Cg used to be 6 or further back, but I found that it performs fine at 5.something too. An aft CG can be used to compensate for smaller, ineffective surfaces, but with todays 3-D monster surfaces, its not necessary to go so far back(just IMO). I just love the Do, been flying one for 5 years now, I can make it do anything 3-D & some bizarre stuff too, I'm not giving that up, it took too long to get there.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I hear ya. You think you could take a pic of your altered Zinger for me sometime? I shaped the tips like a scimtar, but am not sure it was right. I know what you're saying about spool up time. I will keep on my quest to find the ultimate prop :)

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I use an APC prop & lay it on top of the Zinger, trace the APC tip onto the Zinger & cut with fine razor saw. The tricky part is sanding the airfoil section after the cutting, the trailing edges are flat and thicker after the cut, you have to match the inboard part of the airfoil.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

I use an APC prop & lay it on top of the Zinger, trace the APC tip onto the Zinger & cut with fine razor saw. The tricky part is sanding the airfoil section after the cutting, the trailing edges are flat and thicker after the cut, you have to match the inboard part of the airfoil.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

My CG is @ 5.5", it might hurt flat spins but all else should be good.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

That's just about where mine is, and it takes full power to get a spin to start to flatten out. I am finally starting to enjoy how this plane flies, once I stopped trying to fly it like a scale plane, cuz it aint gunna happen, LOL.... That's what I have the big Edge and Cap for right? LOL....

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

That's it, dont try to make the Do into something it's not, but for 3-D and all around fun, the Do is the ticket.I'm willing to sacrifice real good flat spins if it does everything else.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Maidened Do #4, it was perfect, no trim needed, it flew just like #3. I immediately started with the 3-D routine I was used to with the last one, after one or 2 things up higher to be sure all was right, I brought it down on the deck. Couldn't ask for a better weekend and with a little "huck'in", it was perfect. The only thing I might do is take out some up thrust, I put a washer or 2 in, but I had to feed in a lot of down while hovering. Now I have to get my DV finished, but in the mean time, I can get by with the Do and Velox.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

could i put a satio 125 in or would that be a litle overkill?

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Not overkill at all, Mixmaster and I are running OS 1.08's, which out power a 1.25 4 stroke big time. In fact, it's very popular for people to put the OS 100 in the 46 UCD.

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

:)I fly mine with a mighty 110. It's about right for power. You do have to be careful not to fly full throttle on the level or down but it's a wonderful combo.

Thanks
Barry

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

Absolutely, go for it. OS 108, YS110, SA125, all fine for the 60 Do. Dont forget, summer is coming on, glow engines especially feel a power loss with higher temps. The "overkill" in fall & winter will be just about right in the summer, throttle management & correct prop pitch helps a bunch. You can "Do" it!!!!

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

So it would be fine for a .46 one?

RE: U Can Do 3D
 

It would be great in the 60 size